Which is better? A 2.5 200 with a stator or a later 2.5 200 with an alternator? Both standard production motors. What is on with an alternator worth with a hole in the block?
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Which is better? A 2.5 200 with a stator or a later 2.5 200 with an alternator? Both standard production motors. What is on with an alternator worth with a hole in the block?
The one without the hole is better.:) The later is an o ring head. The late motors are strong runners when converted back to adi.
Stator (non cdm) is my preference. John Q fisherman probably thinks the newer the better, and already has a four stroke.
As for value, a hole in the block means that the crank might be damaged. I think I would probably pass, and certainly not pay more than $500.
Stator is one of the things that makes a two-stroke a two-stroke. Doing things to a two stroke to make it less "two-strokey" (made up word), seems to defeat the purpose and at the end of the day, does not seem like a big win. Oil injection systems come to mind here as a standout example.
If a person wants those things maybe buy a two-stroke that was designed for them from the get-go, like an Opti or an ETEC? Or buy a Four-stroke and a hull meant for the weight.
-Peter
This is the motor I am talking about. It's a 2004 2.5 200EFI. I think it's called a downdraft EFI. I got it from a marina. The guy said it was a brand new replacement powerhead last year. He said it blew a piston and has a hole in the block. I am sure it does, but I cannot find the hole yet. I can spin the flywheel by hand all the way around with no restriction. (No spark plugs) If I wiggle it, it makes almost no noise. I almost didn't buy it. But then the guy said I can have the old block also. No hole in that one. He said it had a cracked exhaust. Nothing wrong with the block and I could put it back together. So, I bought everything for $400. I didn't realize until I got there, when he said old block, he meant complete long block. Block, crank, rods, pistons, heads. All cylinders are supposed to have good compression. I just have to put it back together.
Attachment 540067 Attachment 540069Attachment 540068
Extra powerhead,.. not too shabby. A good crankshaft is what makes or breaks those kinda deals for me.
Nothing wrong with having an alternator, probably more desirable, and better resale for John Q,.. being newer.
Is it too cold over there to try the efi engine that you converted to sb's, and had the injectors serviced?
Our small lakes froze about 3 weeks ago, and won't thaw for another two months.
Well crap!!! The spare powerhead has a bad rod bearing in #2. I can reach in through the reed opening and wiggle the rod about 1/4". Like it has no bearing in it. That means the crank is shot too. I put the engine on a stand and jumped the starter. It spins fine with no spark plugs in it. It makes no noise but #2 has no compression. I can see the piston thru the spark plug hole. The piston head looks clean, and I can see the piston go up and down in the cylinder. I am going to have to take them both apart and see if I can make 1 good powerhead. I still have not found a hole in either block.
Quote:
Originally Posted by OnPad
I put it back together and started it up in the driveway. But it always sounded good without a load. The last I checked there was ice at the ramp, and I heard the Great South Bay was frozen over for the first time in 6 years.
I took apart the spare powerhead. #2 rod did not break but the bearing was missing. Attachment 540089 I found nothing except 1 roller, crammed into the top of the piston at the intake port. The cylinder is scored up. Attachment 540088 The rod banged into the block a little bit. Attachment 540085 It hit he front half more. Attachment 540086 No real hole but maybe a very slight crack that can easily be welded if I decide to fix it. Attachment 540087 The other 5 cylinders are good. Number 4 has 1 very slight scratch. The other 4 are perfect. It would need 1 sleeve, 1 piston 1 rod and a crankshaft. Plus, of course new rings, bearings, bolts and gaskets. I have a 2002 2.5 150 with 2 holes with 70PSI. I can use the crank rod and piston from that. I matched up this crank with the crank from that corroded FF 200 I took apart. It looks the same except this style motor does not use the gear for the oil injection. Attachment 540090 Does anyone know a place that will sleeve a 2 stroke near Long Island?
I pulled the head off the complete motor. Looks like #2 had detonation damage. The cylinder walls don't look too bad. Only lite scratches, not very deep like the other block. The other 5 are all fine. More importantly the crank and bearings feel good. All cylinders are still standard size. I should be able to just bore the 1 cylinder .015 oversize. 1 new piston, new bearings, gaskets and bolts and I should have a good motor.
Attachment 540141
Excuse my ignorance here, but how do you check crank and bearings by feel? Are you feeling for rough spots?Quote:
Originally Posted by skialot2
-Peter
Yes. I am going by feel. The rotating assembly spins freely with no rough spots. When you turn the flywheel back and forth there is no play that you can feel or excessive noises. Indicates rod bearings are tight. If you pry lightly on the flywheel there is no sideways motion or end play. Indicates mains are good. Of course there is always the possibility of wear you can't feel. And everything has to be checked upon disassembly to be sure. But I am pretty confident that the crank and rods will be good. Plastic rod bearings will be replaced anyway. That is what happened to the other powerhead. Plastic rod bearing cage disintegrated.