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I am restoring a 35 yr old race boat. the original fuel lines are clear reinforced vilyl, joining both tanks, water separater. lines look like swimming pool stuff. it must be ok, besides being stiff and discolored. question; should i replace with the same or std. black automotive ltubing? even the gas fills use 11/2 clear vinyl reinforced thick wall. looked odd to me, thanks.
I would use something that has the USCG type A1 rating... for insurance/liability reasons.
https://www.new-line.com/hose/automo...20hoses%20only.
I agree. Use a good marine rated hose.
Kirchner, The Parker Store (Goodyear Rubber Products) in Clearwater will have everything you need for hoses, clamps, fittings etc. Prices are good. Not that far for you.
Rich
..."J1527" rated marine fuel hose is what EVERY boat builder has been required to use for the last 25 plus years. it simply means its alchohol rated fuel line by the coast guard & what everyone should be using anyways. theres A1 & A2. just different wall thicknesses. won't name names(big famous boat builder names) that use the blue non-achohol hi-performance push-lok and replacable hose end type fuel lines are just asking for trouble, and have been for many years, liability wise. told them right to their face & they don't change their production use. crazy...
...all the j1527 rated fuel line has j1527 printed along the entire length of the hose. easy to identify...
Parker Hannefin? Great outfit!Quote:
Originally Posted by hydra-sports
Agree SAE J1527 is a marine spec and is what I also use.Quote:
Originally Posted by FUJIMO
…BUT…
The current legal automotive fuel lines are also SAE rated for alcohol and vapor. I honestly don’t know why they too, could not be used for marine. Or at least for the short runs between carbs in multi-carb V6’s. I have played with both J1527 (the marine spec) and current SAE spec automotive fuel line. As far as I can tell, the only difference is that the marine grade (J1527) is stiffer/stronger and that’s just A1. The A2 would be stiffer and stronger still. I think at this point I would definitely use J1527 for long runs or runs through rigging tunnels and such where there are advantages to being strong and stiff. But if I had to build a web of short 4-6” runs between carbs where flexibility might help, at least looking at the specs, I don’t know what would be wrong with one of the more flexible, current SAE-spec automotive hoses. Other than inflexible catch-all, one-size-fits-all regulatory enforcement concerns.
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As for the boat builders using the Earl’s or Aeroquip blue stuff, well auto-racing fashion bling might be a big attraction to their customers. There is quite a market for fake braided stuff and fake anodized fittings in automotive bling circles, because they look racy and certain people like that look.
-Peter
I think A2 is for fuel tank filler hoses or tank vent hoses that aren't continuously full of fuel.
"USCG Type A1 hoses are designed for fuel feed applications where the fuel is constantly in the hose, whereas Type A2 hoses are designed for fuel fill type hoses only.
The "A" refers to meeting flamability tests and the "1 or 2" differentiates the hoses for fuel permeability tests - "1" being suitable for constant fuel contact where as "2" would not meet constant fuel permeability tests."
...what he ^ said...lol...
The main difference that I can tell between the current automotive 30R7 standard and the current marine J1527 standard is fire resistance. J1527 has to tolerate fire for 2.5 minutes. Both are alcohol tolerant. The automotive 30R7 has to be alcohol tolerant to E85 (85% ethanol). Not sure if the marine J1527 is for more than 15% alcohol. It may be that the automotive has a tighter vapor permeation standard, for emission controlled vehicles. J1527 is for pleasure craft. There is another standard for commercial vessels.
-Peter
...wonder if the 30R7 fuel line can be used with push-lok fittings. not asking this question with regards to boat use. i happen to have a hot rod that i use chrome push-lok eaton-aeroquip fittings & blue hose on, for multiple items. the blue hose needs to be replaced every five years or so, cause it gets all cracked up. wondering if the 30R7 would be better hose, if it could be used with push-lok fittings. guess i will just have to try it myself....
Says to use barbed fittings and to stay under 50psi... seems like it would work, except some higher pressure efi stuff.Quote:
Originally Posted by FUJIMO
No reason it shouldn’t work. Earl’s push lock stuff is just extra sharp barbs for the standard ID’s. They are SUPER hard to take the barb off the hose without damaging the end sleeve on the fitting. I suspect that is by design.Quote:
Originally Posted by FUJIMO
If it matters HBD Thermoid 30R7 is USA made. I have no affiliation with them, and am originally from Australia anyway, LOL. I have bought my Thermoid stuff off Amazon and eBay.
-Peter
The main difference between marine and automotive hose ... is price. ;)
Coast Guard approved is for mfg's , because as FUGImoto can attest .. they would use fish aquarium hose if they could. :eek:
They are also not sposta rig outboard powered boats with hull mounted fuel pumps or regulators that return fuel back inside the boat (fuel tank) :rolleyes:
I buy the blue pushlock -4, -6, -8, -10 by the roll from Jegs. It's EFI / Alky rated, cheap, and safe out of the reach of moron's .. :rolleyes:
Anything over a constant 100 psi .. I use the nylon braid covered hose and reusable ends. I got away from the stainless braid years ago. It can vibrate thru wire insulation, ground out positive leads .. blow fuses at the least, start fires at the worst .. only place it belongs is brake and nitrous lines ... :thumbsup: