I'm working on a 88 2l 150 black Max,
Looking for any information on how much to releave and possibly shape.
Trying to accommodate some possible additional flow, I'm raising compression to around 145.
Any info would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Steve.
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I'm working on a 88 2l 150 black Max,
Looking for any information on how much to releave and possibly shape.
Trying to accommodate some possible additional flow, I'm raising compression to around 145.
Any info would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Steve.
Hit up Nitro Rat. He’s the 20 guru
The higher compression will give you more mid range punch but you will have to run premium fuel every single tank. Look for more speed in engine height and setback and props. Not so much on motor horsepower.
Shadowflier has been helping me with the in and outs of making power, he's been very helpfull. I'm just looking for more info possibly some pics of a worked 2l exhaust chest. Any info is appreciated.
Thanks for the heads up on the 2l guru.
Be very careful on the exhaust chest as anything you do will move the power curve up in the rpm range and that can actually hurt performance on a bass boat.
The heaviest boat I ever run is a Hydrostream Varmint. It’s nothing (weight wise) in comparison to a modern bass boat. The best running stock 2.0 was the 1980-ish 175. It has a chest that looks like a 300 drag, forged TRW pistons, crank like a small bearing 260. They’ll spin up to 8k with the vertical front and Boyesen reeds. I highly recommend making sure your crank has no runout, and balancing your pistons and rods if you want to spin like that…
other good mods are the small bearing 260 top cap and a light weight flywheel. They have a 9 amp charging system, not great for “modern” electronics. A 16 amp stator will swap in though.
Well i just found a crack in the exhaust chest area so i dont know how much i will be doing!Attachment 515072Quote:
Originally Posted by nitro_rat
Thanks for the info.
If the rest of the motor is good, I’m pretty sure that can be welded up.
Crack is fine, they all do that.
Best advice would be to find a 2.5, the 2.0 is a fine motor, but the 2.5 is a country mile farther ahead. MUCH more torque. 200FF or EE block in stock form will out perform any lakeable 2.0
RT
[QUOTE=RBT;3377267]Crack is fine, they all do that.
Best advice would be to find a 2.5, the 2.0 is a fine motor, but the 2.5 is a country mile farther ahead. MUCH more torque. 200FF or EE block in stock form will out perform any lakeable 2.0
RT[/QUOTE
Don't have the money for that have to make what I have work and can't have anything more than 150 on this particular boat.
Per Bass Master regulations.
Research lake cut exhaust, many discussions and pictures on here.
I run a lake cut chest and raised the exhaust ports to around 1.540 with 26cc heads on my 2L and it runs pretty strong on my lighter Baker. I've been told little modifications usually see the best results. You can also change your stock long tuner. 2L blocks are easy to find. Modify and test them, they're tuff little motors.
Searching now haven't found it yet
Has anyone here done any work on standard replacement Wiseco pistons for a 2l black Max?
I would like to lighten them up. I am doing all the manual work to this that I can, have very limited funds I'm no stranger to grinding in precision.
I don't care how small the mod is!
Thanks.
Not just for performance but cooling or anything.
In terms of rarity… Which would be more common, a 2.5/150 (carbed), or a 2.5/200 (carbed)?Quote:
Originally Posted by RBT;[URL="tel:3377267"
I already have a 2.0/150 and a 2.4/200, but in my Merc-madness, I’m curious to see what all the fuss is over the 2.5. Certainly sounds like you can’t have a proper collection of carb v6 Mercs without a 2.5.
I think my boat is not supposed to be more than 150, but since a 200 is no bigger and heavier*… You know… ;)
*I think the chrome 2.4 is a wee bit lighter than the 2.0
-Peter
Not to hurt ya feeling but you be better off with a different hull for the speed thingy. That was a copy of a old Procraft hull...rides good but just wont get on top of water and run.