Shop heat??

Doing homework to replace my kerosene/diesel fueled torpedo/salamander used in my shop last winter.

W/the new insulation it holds in the exhaust fumes too well and I am low enough on brain cells already.
Don't want to mess w/wood or used engine oil although I like both concepts.

Don't have gas here so was planning on setting an LP tank and finding a used/take out furnace and hanging it from the ceiling. Thats still on my "A" list but on my last trip to Menards I found this electric unit and really like what I see. Plus no plumbing or duct work.
My concern though, other than electric bills is, does the heating element get hot enough to ignite paint fumes and or fiberglass resin fumes?
Keep imaging hearing the click of the thermostat just before I'm blown to kingdom come ;)

Anyone have experience w/something similar to below in a similar environment???

Thanks guys. Gary

15,000W 240V Digital Electronic Garage Heater

Model Number: KB2415-1-B2-ECO | Menards^® SKU: 6354249

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This commercial grade 15,000 watt electronically controlled unit heater is the most technologically advanced large unit heater on the market today. Offering energy efficient 2 stage heating, the smart electronic thermostat automatically uses the lowest wattage needed to heat the room and maintain a steady temperature. The remote control allows for east control of the unit even in the highest locations. This heater can be wall or ceiling mounted for maximum versatility. A fan only mode can be used to create air-flow year round and the timer feature can be set for up to 9 hours of continuous operation.

Industrial Grade Spiral Finned Element
Electronic Controls with LED Display Panel
Summer Fan Only Mode
Enclosed Unit Bearing Motor
Heavy Guage Steel Construction
9 Hour Timer Mode
Remote Control Included
Adjustable Discharge Louvers
Universal Wall / Ceiling Bracket

I want to know as well on options! I sold my house and moved to a new one where I will have to install a unit heater of some sort, my previous house was 3 car garage with 8 foot ceiling and 55K heater worked great. Was thinking 80,000 BTU natural gas since the ceiling is about 12 foot tall on this 3 car garage. But the copper gas line, heater, exhaust piping, hole in wall and all adds up quick. Maybe electric could work as well and be easier on cost over the winter?

How about a big truck radiator inside with a furnace heating it from the outside......

We have one of these in our garage at home; I wouldn't even consider any other kind of heater now that we have it: http://www.teksupply.com/contractor/...4_106026P.html

If your shop is big, they have straight tube instead of u-tube heaters: http://www.teksupply.com/contractor/...c_103192L.html

If I did it again, I would get the 25K instead of 45K BTU unit so it would actually run for awhile. We keep the garage about 55F all winter (-10F outside sometimes) for about $25/month in natural gas. (You can change between 25k - 35k - 45k with just an orifice change; I've just been too lazy to order one.)

The floor is always warm. No matter how much ice/snow melts off the cars overnight... the floor is dry in the morning. Plus there's no fan blowing stuff around while you paint (there's a fan in the combustion unit but it draws air through the burner and exhausts it outside). You get super-fast recovery after you close the overhead door because a lot of the heat is stored in the floor and spreads out naturally to heat the air back up quickly. The only downside is if you have a low (8') ceiling it gets hot standing right under it (the higher the better, but the 25K BTU would be better for us that way too.)

You can set them up to draw and/or exhaust outside. Ours draws from inside the garage and exhausts out through the wall.

At work I have hanging Reznor/Modine style heaters that work OK as long as you have big-ass ceiling fans running all winter to force the heat down toward the floors. You can get them in "sealed combustion" units that draw and exhaust outside; the last one cost me $2800 installed. I'm going to replace at least one with a straight-tube radiant unit.

Quote:

Originally Posted by David - WI

We have one of these in our garage at home; I wouldn't even consider any other kind of heater now that we have it: http://www.teksupply.com/contractor/...4_106026P.html

If your shop is big, they have straight tube instead of u-tube heaters: http://www.teksupply.com/contractor/...c_103192L.html

If I did it again, I would get the 25K instead of 45K BTU unit so it would actually run for awhile. We keep the garage about 55F all winter (-10F outside sometimes) for about $25/month in natural gas. (You can change between 25k - 35k - 45k with just an orifice change; I've just been too lazy to order one.)

The floor is always warm. No matter how much ice/snow melts off the cars overnight... the floor is dry in the morning. Plus there's no fan blowing stuff around while you paint (there's a fan in the combustion unit but it draws air through the burner and exhausts it outside). You get super-fast recovery after you close the overhead door because a lot of the heat is stored in the floor and spreads out naturally to heat the air back up quickly. The only downside is if you have a low (8') ceiling it gets hot standing right under it (the higher the better, but the 25K BTU would be better for us that way too.)

You can set them up to draw and/or exhaust outside. Ours draws from inside the garage and exhausts out through the wall.

At work I have hanging Reznor/Modine style heaters that work OK as long as you have big-ass ceiling fans running all winter to force the heat down toward the floors. You can get them in "sealed combustion" units that draw and exhaust outside; the last one cost me $2800 installed. I'm going to replace at least one with a straight-tube radiant unit.

Good stuff David, thanks. I like that type.

Shop is 32' x 56' w/12' ceilings. R-19 walls, ceilings and doors w/concrete floors.

i have a small version of that in my garage....its small only 14x25 but its well insulated and the little electric guy keeps it at 55 all winter with no issues...i can get it to 70 75 if its not too cold or windy out basically all winter...as for igniting fumes if mine hasnt done that yet i dont think they will....lol...i have painted, glassed, gelcoated primed etc and never an issue....

Quote:

Originally Posted by ghost28

.as for igniting fumes if mine hasnt done that yet i dont think they will....lol...i have painted, glassed, gelcoated primed etc and never an issue....

Great info.

Thank you sir.

NG or LP radiant is the way to go as first choice. As for electric... just take 15K x cost per KW/hr and that will scare you!

I have about same size shop but 14' side wall. I had a Modine Hot dawg 75k btu worked great for 10 yrs up until last couple. I got tired of replacing parts on it so bought a MR heater 80k btu from Menards for just under $450 after rebate will see how that works. Radiant heat is awesome unless you a exchanging a lot of air like when your painting or glassing. I learned the hard way about radiant tube heaters. I worked in a body shop a long time ago that had them and would pull cars out of paint booth and come back in the morning to buff. I couldn't figure out why the heck the paint was so hard over night. It finally dawned on me that the radiant heat was acting like a bake light lol.

I am in the process of building a new work shop and I am going to use the hybrid heating technology that I use in the new homes I build. Building is going to be 18 x 24 with 10 ft ceiling. I am planning on using a mini-split heat pump (electric) down to 20 deg then a LP Renai (sp) direct vent wall mount below that. This system can be adjusted to take advantage of the price of LP or elect. and I will also have A/C in the heat pump at no extra cost. In the zone I am in about 80% of the heating time is above 20 deg. More money up front but BIG savings down the road! I will also use a wood stove when I am not painting,glassing or using solvents ( which means not a lot). Gary

Quote:

Originally Posted by Instigator

Good stuff David, thanks. I like that type.

Shop is 32' x 56' w/12' ceilings. R-19 walls, ceilings and doors w/concrete floors.

The nice thing about these ones is they heat everything not just the air. No grabbing ice cold tools that are on or near the floor.

Dave

Great thread! Thing is I'm getting old, tired wood stove hassle with getting wood, etc, wait for heat a PITA. Does not get cold here PNW me, but its the moisture rainy season as WAY too many "stuff to rust" Ya can't beat a wood stove for "dry heat". I been thinking maybe get a a Home Depot big propane tank ($800) and get installed for forced heat the shop, 24x24 10 high well insulated and as connected house and just about live out here awake. I do have now a wall propane heater got free, buts its old and tried using a 20 pound tank it. Damn pilot light alone will use it up fast. And I do NOT want any "flame " in my shop if not out here. But any new ceiling hung installed PP heat will be PRICEY! Been thinking electric as here as electric cost cheap..(hydro power dams) and thats available and have 220 to the shop. I only pay electric bills tops, (house all electric heat) winter about $140. Summer? $35.
I'll have to look into the electric heater mentioned as been thinking it as no hassle. Keep the wood stove though. And electric heat does not need venting as zero fumes. On "igniting fumes" in the shop? On start up there is no spark ignition, just a warming the coils to red hot. So I'm really clueless if that would ignite lingering vapor. A spark will, but a hot coil? Just dunno!

Thanks to all that responded.

To review and highlight a couple points.

1. No wood burning anything! I heated two houses for 13 yrs. I cut, hauled, split. stacked my own wood, cleaned the wood burner every morning and aint doing that again.

2. I like the propane fueled, ceiling mounted tube heaters but like Twisters great point on air movement.
Davids experiences seem to debunk that and I like the "no air movement" for paint work.
Have also noticed what David said about the floor staying warm. If we have a warm day here w/the door open, the shop is warm in the morning due to the floor.

3. I still, really like the Menards electric version but don't want to blow myself up. Even though Ghost has failed in his attempts ;)
I checked and they wired my barn right when added to the house grid. 200 amp service w/2 awg wiring and I have openings in the barn panel for additional breakers.

4. Flabum, great idea but don't have the time to experiment/jerry rig. It's already been in the 30's at night/morning.

5. boatman, I don't have the budget for a hybrid.

6. Robbie, we shall see ;)

Gary Could you please keep us informed with pics and info as you install what ever you choose to heat with ? This could be of real value to members in the future as the price of energy rises. Energy consumption is my biggest sales factor with the new custom homes I build and heating large open spaces is an art in itself!!!! Thanks in advance Gary

Quote:

Originally Posted by olboatman

Energy consumption is my biggest sales factor with the new custom homes I build and heating large open spaces is an art in itself!!!! Thanks in advance Gary

I totally get that and am a big fan of all.

Our house is propane heat, again, in the stix w/few choices. We and most of our neighbors have 250 gallon tanks. Our neighbors w/kids go through 3+ tanks per winter @ $5 - $600 per.
Neighbor directly across the street, he and girlfriend only, go through 2 - 3 tanks. Their house is a ranch and ours is two story w/a 20'+ tall foyer and we do a winter in one tank.
That neighbor was shocked of learning that.
My trick is two portable, programable electric heaters (cheap ones) w/thermostats. I set one right under our house thermostat (so it doesn't cycle) in the hallway opening up to our kitchen/dining rooms that has no dividing walls.
I set the second one in the corner of our bedroom, w/a ceiling fan in the middle of room.
I set both to 65 or 70* and I've seen it in teens outside and house furnace did not kick on.

Also have a good, 7 day programmable t.stat.

I think we're doing pretty good for what we have but it would be fun to see what we could do w/current technology and a healthy budget.