Anyone try using a product made by plascore? It is a honeycomb core board. Wondered if this would be a good replacement for balsa core in a stream?
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Anyone try using a product made by plascore? It is a honeycomb core board. Wondered if this would be a good replacement for balsa core in a stream?
my question is why ?? why would you want to use another core that is nothing like Balsa, and I feel is not the type of core that will stand up to the continued punishment the balsa will with out any problem . Balsa is used for a very good reason so understand that reason you get your own answer !!
I have seen a product like that get shipped to a manufacturer in Detroit Lakes, MN. 4'X8' sheets. Maybe they were using it somewhere on the deck?
If you were to restore a small high speed boat that came with a balsa core... What material would you use for the core?Quote:
Originally Posted by tunnels
James
Balsa ! why would you want to use anything else?Quote:
Originally Posted by W2F a V-King
Just curious what your choice would be. You do this kind of work for a living, and your opinion is of value. So there is no good choice to replace balsa core with any composite?Quote:
Originally Posted by tunnels
Thank you,
James
So many differing opinions on core, there may never be an agreement on what is best.....I wouldn't use balsa for a row boat.....You can see the superior results of using composites for decades to come. Long after the balsa is dust.....
Agreed, just trying to understand all the options. Cost is not the factor for a small area like the Viking. Balsa is little less than 1/2 the cost of Divinycel. I need 3 sheets of the 32"x48" to do my boat in divinycell, or almost 4 2'x4' sheets of balsa. Balsa over time will deteriorate for sure. $200 vs $100. The coosa is what is gonna hurt :( It's a lot more than wood for sure. But once done...it's DONE. :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by XstreamVking
I thought Tunnels didn't use wood in boat building, obviously I was wrong. I've read so many posts on this subject I forget details sometimes.:o
James
If you use the divinycell use the H-80 series for the bottom. The bottom needs the higher physicals. You could make a floor with some H-60 or H-45 series to save some $. Coosa for the trans and stringers can'be beat. Bi-ply 0/45 glass is good for the hull. 0/90 glass is used primarily for stringers to provide longitudinal stiffness.
I'll answer that with one word....ROT!!! If I want wood in a boat I'll buy a 1936 Chris Craft. My Viper was recored with Dininycell and that was a main buying factor for me. GaryQuote:
Originally Posted by tunnels
[QUOTE=W2F a V-King;2898261]Just curious what your choice would be. You do this kind of work for a living, and your opinion is of value. So there is no good choice to replace balsa core with any composite?
Thank you,
James[/QUOTE
All the man made core don't come close to plain everyday balsa not only as a material but the structure of the balsa cells man has not been able to repeat or come close ! Core cell is the only choice OF all the foams on the market that has the toughness and durability to stand the continuous thumping and pounding that happens with the hull panels the moment the boat starts to move across the water!and the faster the harder the thumping ! The CORE thickness used also has a big part to play with these small boats also, some were just 3/8" now they are 1/2 "!!
[QUOTE=XstreamVking;2898293]If you use the divinycell use the H-80 series for the bottom. The bottom needs the higher physicals. You could make a floor with some H-60 or H-45 series to save some $. Coosa for the trans and stringers can'be beat. Bi-ply 0/45 glass is good for the hull. 0/90 glass is used primarily for stringers to provide longitudinal stiffness.[/QUOTE
ON A HULL THAT SMALL WHY HAVE STRINGERS ??If you use a single unidirectional from keel to chine across the top of the core you don't need stringers ! so why bother?
In 1996 I recored "ol grey" with foam and was given 20 gallons of boat yard polyester resin from a place going out of business. I was told it would fall apart, the foam is going to turn to dust, it's going to delam, the styrene is going to dissolve the foam, bla bla bla. To this day it will vibrate your teeth in your head running across a little wind chop and sound like you are in a tin shed during an epic hail storm. I couldn't tell you how many thousands of miles are underneath that boat.
There boats have stringers for a number of reasons, one of which is floor support, a second is for what most of us do with them now they are very highly stressed on a very limited amount of running surface and at times take a tremendous beating when getting out of shape or getting caught out by some surprise boat wakes or pusher barge rollers that all these pontoons and wakeboard boats leave across the lake. Suggesting leaving out an (very) important structural element of a boat your are unfamiliar with and or have zero experience around with some flim flam CSM and this and that lay up is not in the best interest of some peoples projects. /soapbox
My old V-King is another one to prove that foam and composites are gonna last for a lifetime. May be the stiffest boat I have ever had....
ok if you choose to use H-80 foam (WHAT THICKNESS)what would you use contoured or perforated sheet form and how would you stick it down ? what with and how ??
If you use the divinycell use the H-80 series for the bottom. The bottom needs the higher physicals. You could make a floor with some H-60 or H-45 series to save some
with foams always choose a higher density than you first think of not the lower !!
H-45 SHOULD ONLY BE USED FOR A smallish DECK NEVER ANY SURFACE THAT GETS WALKED ON !