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With the exception of the the diehards among us, the boating season is over for most people up north now so I thought this might be a good time to outline some tips for the proper storage of your boat during the off-season or just taking it out of service. I should note that this article is about the care of your hull in storage, not the engine and other systems.
There are many sources for preparing engines for storage, however I’ve found that often the hulls themselves are usually put into storage with not much more than a cover. That may be fine for short-term, in-between-use layups, however, additional steps should be taken if the boat is to be stored for more than a month.
| Your trailer bunks should be set up to avoid excessive hull overhang. The boat's bottom should not overhang the trailer bunks by more than six inches. |
After a day on the water, once the boat is on the trailer, most of us will remove the drain plug and tilt the trailer upward to drain the hull, then cover the boat. But a few extra steps could be added to this after-use routine that could make a big difference in protecting your boat against moisture damage in the long term.
Covering the boat protects it from outdoor elements, however if the cover is not ventilated in any way, it will trap moisture already present, and with no circulating air inside the boat, it is a perfect environment for mold growth and moisture-rotting to take place. In cases of long-term storage, it is a good idea to make sure the cover used has some means of ventilating air.
After the boat is trailered and cleaned, place a compact dehumidifier inside the boat, then cover the boat tightly. Let the dehumidifier run for a full day. The amount of water that the dehumidifier will pull from your boat’s interior might really surprise you.
Many boats have a bilge pump access cavity below the floor, and in this case, I have a somewhat unorthodox tip to better circulate air under the floor during long-term, off-season storage.
Obtain a small computer case fan; the type that is normally used inside computer cases and other electronics. These small fans are available pre-wired with a USB connector for power. Place the fan into the under-floor bilge access cavity (if your boat has one) or any other often damp, confined area within your hull that can benefit from ventilation. Although it does not push a lot of air, the small fan will be sufficient to circulate air under the floor and aid in removing some dampness that could ultimately damage wooden stringers and balsa coring. Even if your hull has no wood in its structure, taking steps to remove any trapped moisture is always a good idea.
| Small USB-powered fans such as this one are excellent for circulating air inside tight spaces within your hull. |
Never overlook your trailer and how it is set up to support your hull. Without complete support, over time the stresses of your boat’s own weight can slowly deform its bottom. I will use one example of a beautiful 1975 HydroStream Viper that I inspected. This Viper looked amazing in its near-flawless apricot metalflake gelcoat, however once I looked at the bottom, I immediately saw very pronounced indentations on the bottom, which matched the roller-bunks that the boat was evidently stored on since new. That kind of hull damage would be very expensive to correct and could also render the boat unsafe to operate.
A trailer that is too short will create a situation where there is excessive overhang of your boat's hull at the stern. Remember, there is a very heavy outboard on your transom, and your trailer bunks should be long enough to support the bottom of your boat all the way to the transom or within six inches of it. Furthermore, for boats that are over 18 feet, using four bunks to support it instead of two would be ideal. These guidelines are extra important if you tow your boat on long trips often. For long-term storage, I advise against using trailers with rollers instead of flat bunks.
If you want to really be thorough, unbolt the outboard (or jack plate) from the transom to make sure your engine mounting bolts are properly sealed. If you purchased the boat pre-rigged - even from a dealer - do not always assume your transom through-bolts are properly sealed. My preferred solution here is 3M 4200. Many people will recommend 5200 instead, however I feel that its adhesive qualities are far too strong for this task. 4200 will seal just as well and be easier to remove when the time comes. While you're at it, check other fittings below the waterline such as speedometer pitot tube brackets and fish-finder transducer mounts. And finally, If there is a metal trim piece at the top of the transom, it wouldn't hurt to check if that is sealed as well.
Being extra vigilant in how you prepare your boat for storage, both for months or years, can make a big difference in its condition and safety in the long run.
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