2.4 Bridgeport

[Pepe']

Could someone tell me the difference between a 2.4 200 carb block and a 2.4 efi bridgeport block? IS it possible to swap the front halves to change the carbed 200 to an efi?

[DaveR]

Since no one seems to want to step in - I think you have two questions. The 2.4 B/P and 2.4 stock 200 hp are different blocks and have different port shapes and heights - the bridged exhaust port being the most obvious. You can change the front halfs between any of them (B/P, 200 hp , EFI and carb) , but the block / front half assemblies are line bored from the factory so the new front half and block may not line up perfectly. I can't speak for the other guys that do this more than I do, but assemble the block and front half without a crank in it and look and FEEL how well the crank journals line up at the split. If they seem to be real good I've assembled like normal and have not had a problem. If your not sure, leave the locating pins out and tighten carefully letting the halves align to the crank. If it's way out, try another front half.

It's worked for me - but I'm no expert. At least this is back at the top for someone else to see.

[Talon2.5]

when i get home i'll explain how to do it with pics also:D

[Talon2.5]

ok lets talk about the front half deal, i had an 87 bridgeport efi that i fried #5 and#6 by overheating it, i bought a new block that was an oval port and yes the ports are different as stated above in daves post, i took the crank and rods and EFI front and with some details carefully looked at, switched it all over

the pistons in my 87 bridgeport had the area that ran over the exhaust bridge milled flat and two small oiling holes in the milled area so i used standard 200 pistons on the bridgeports rods

i cleaned the block and front half and crank lubed up the crank and assembled the three pieces to check for crank bind, the crank bind comes from the sealing rings of the crank leaving a groove over time in the sealing ring lands of the front half and block which when swaped around to different motors with different cranks can vary as to the position of the groove on the sealing ring land and when drastic mismatches are done can cock the ring and cause binding

when i put the crank in i bolted the two halves together with the center main bolts and torqued to the specs then layed it on its back slid the flywheel on and slowly turned it looking for the bind, there was none and wwent ahead with the assembly

i switched another block around after blowing that one due to ingested plastic that stuck in the reed cage and cut off the cylinders fuel and the ring lands grooves were quite different so i hand polished the grooves out and did the crank bind check, all was good and assembled it

i built my 7 petal carbed 2.4 and used a differnt front than he block had originally and used a 4inch diameter flapper wheel and my having to do it by hand was over, it worked great, no crank bind and built the motor

i did the same on my 2.5 and a friends EFI 2.4

this is a pic of the 2.5 front half of my motor and what the flapper wheel can do, the green arrows show the finished sealing ring lands and at the right the red arrow shows a groove that will be taken out that is caused by the sealing rings

take daves advise also and do the inspection of the mating surfaces he spoke about

it's really not that hard to do ;)