Building engine stand - need angle measurement...

[STV_Keith]

I'm going to turn my car motor engine stand into a boat motor engine stand. What I need to know is if you have a hi-perf Merc (not sure it matters), where the engine is perpendicular to the ground, and the trim is bottomed out (as if the pump/lines were not connected), what angle would the clamp bracket be at? From the guess work I have done, it looks like about 24 degrees.

Can anyone verify this?

[SUPERBASH]

Keep it 90degrees & put a spacer block so the engine stays perpendicular.
Big Al or Dave S or RaceMan or someone posted one not long ago.http://img34.imageshack.us/img34/2052/bash6uo.gif (http://imageshack.us)

[Raceman]

Tractor supply now sells a perfect one since Sam's went to the welded Goodyear Racing one that's not easy to adapt. At Tractor Supply it's the perimeter stand that's 1000 or 1250 lb capacity (can't remember) and I think it's around 80 bucks. They have mail order if there's not a store nearby.


I don't know the angle off the top of my head, but 24º sounds like WAY too much regardless of how you're measuring it. I'd think 10 to 15º from the 90 being perpendicular would be more like it.

[150aintenuff]

standard transom anle figured by factory is 14* but all the way down will yeild a 4-6* negitive angle at the engine so you will want to build a bracket with a 8-10 * inward angle..

[STV_Keith]

Thanks 150!

[150aintenuff]

if it were me I would build the stand so it is adjustable as some brackets have more tilt in than others that way you can keep ALL motors you work on while on te stand level.. good luck and post pics I have 3 engine stands and I need to do the same thing so I have a way to do the same..

[Raceman]

In addition to the Tractor Supply one, Summit has a perfect one also. Y'all can't build one for what these things cost ready to bolt together. The Summit one is rated at 1250 lbs.

[mendo]

I did like raceman said in another post and put the vertical bracket on backwards. Perfect angle, I saw it on another thread. I did weld it when I was done so that it was stronger. Even though it only has 3 wheels, it hold the entire engine including gearcase very stable.

[Raceman]

The reason I only use the 4 wheel models with the perimeter base is that the 3 wheelers require the motor to be much higher because of the pole down the middle, and they're also much less stable. I've got a couple of 4 wheelers that have the pole in the middle that are build like an H at the bottom and I don't like them as well for the same higher center of gravity reason. Summit's 1250 lb model is hard to beat for the money, and I think shipping is either free or maybe a 5 or 10 dollar oversize surcharge.

[STV_Keith]

The model I have is the folding arm harbor freight unit. 2 legs out front, so it has room for the skeg. There is some "tip up" in the hole that the tube slides in now, about 10*, so I have to add that into the equation. If 150 is right, then about 10* more is needed on the plate to have the motor sit perpindicular to the ground when the trim is bottomed down.

[mendo]

Keith, can you put the vertical pole on backwards? they you would have 10 degrees in the way you want?


Done.

[150aintenuff]

there ya go.. dat will werk.. thx mendo. gunna do that on mine today

[STV_Keith]

No, cause then all the support is on the opposite side of the weight. :) It would just fall over.

[The Big Al]

What is the standard angle of transome of a boat?


In relation to the pad?

[STV_Keith]

I don't think there is a standard. What I want is to build an adapter for my stand, so that assuming the trim pump isn't connected (and therefore the trim ram will bottom out in the down position) that the engine sits perpindicular to the ground.

[The Big Al]

Keith. I will try to find my angle finder and figer out what ya need, is your engine still on your boat?

[STV_Keith]

OK, got out the old angle finder today. Here's what I've got:

http://www.speedcraving.com/stv/ob-stand/stand.jpg

The head of my stand is 10* up.

http://www.speedcraving.com/stv/ob-stand/engine.jpg

The motor sits on the transom with 22* of angle, and with the trim bottomed out, the cav plate is 14* from parallel. This tells me that with the trim bottomed, if the clamp bracket were perpindicular to the ground, the motor would have 8* of angle to it. So, I need to add 8* of angle to my plate, on top of the 10* to offset the upward angle of the stand. Sound right?

[150aintenuff]

keith reverse your stands riser and remount the botts... that gives you 10* inverted agle.. THEN ad a set of 5 degree wedges to the mounting side of the stand.. that will put you with in 1-2 * of paralell

[The Big Al]

Did I do it were ya understand?

[The Big Al]

Hey 150 has a better idea! A dam good idea!!!



I think Raceman tried to tell me that one time and I smashed him!
Just a natural reaction!

[STV_Keith]

Guys, the legs fold up for storage, so I can't redrill the location for the support straps. Also, I don't really want to cut it up, because then I couldn't use it for car motors anymore. Simply by making a slide in mount, it will retain all of its current function, plus be able to do the OB's.

[The Big Al]

If you do it like the last pic I posted, like 150 said, all you are doing is drilling holes and bolting it together to mount your boat engine. When you are done. bolt it back like it was and put it up for your next engine project.


Simple, I can't think of anything better!!!

[The Big Al]

You might not understand something, when you move the post, you turn it around, you do not cut and reweld it. when you turn it around that will change the angle, just put the head in the other direction!

[STV_Keith]

No, I see what you are saying Al, but if you spin the post around, not only is the top angle reversed, but so is the angle of the post itself. This now puts the holes for the supports way off to the right (looking at my picture above), so those no longer reach.

In the end, I think simply buying the 2-3/4" pipe and a piece of 1/2 plate, and welding them together at the right angle makes the most sense and the least amount of work.

[The Big Al]

Then 18 degree is your number!

[150aintenuff]

wrong again AL.. LEEP the support straps there .. just turn the riser post around on the U bolts that hold it up and re attach LONGER support straps.. and since your stand has a hole clear through reincert the engine mount in the other way giving the supported load again between the 4 wheels.. takes 3 seconds... let me get you a pic.. of mine... BRB

have to wait... forgot I still had a SBC block bolted to it pics to come tomarrow.. .

[The Big Al]

Humm, I'm still thinking, i need a picture, dummys need pictures.
I need a picture!

[150aintenuff]

heres a sketch

IF you want to reuse the existing supports just redrill the riser stand pipe and re bolt at a lower location minimal support is lost.. 90% of support is in the legs the straps just keep it from bending the botom plate back and a 260 isnt that much weight for a 1250 LB stand

[The Big Al]

Ok, just drill 1 new hole for the straps.

Works for me!

AL