How do yall hook up your fuel pressure gauges up?

[WATERWINGS]

I know that sounds like a dumb question, but what I found was that there is not a screw on fitting that has a barb on it for hooking the fuel up to the back of the gauge.

I can get a kit from the gauge company, but the shortest one they have is like $45, and it would allow me to go from thier braided hose to a barb fitting.

Right now I have it hooked up using some compression fittings from Lowes, (and the man said it would hold up to 150 psi), but it is a piece of brass tubing, and I am afraid that after some bouncing and vibration, that the tube might crack or break.

How do yall solve this?

[gselite2000]

What gauge are you using. Can you post a picture of it?

[WATERWINGS]

its autometer, I will try to get a pic.

[STV_Keith]

Here's my setup. I too have the autometer gauge (0-100psi liquid filled fuel pressure) - it has a -4AN fitting on the back of the guage. I bought an adapter that is -4AN female to 1/8" NPT male compression. I then run 1/8" plastic tubing from the gauge to this fitting at the engine:

http://www.speedcraving.com/stv/2-5motor/fuel-press-takeoff.jpg

I bought the fittings at a local speed shop. I believe they are XRP fittings. From left to right, it's a 3/8" hose barb to -6AN female fitting. The next fitting is -6AN Male to -6AN Female, with a 1/8" NPT female out the side. Then a -6AN Male to -6AN Female 90* swivel to the rail itself. This allows for the 1/8" NPT male to 1/8" compression fitting, 90* for the feed to the gauge.

Hope that helps.

[WATERWINGS]

That looks like a better way, is the line a special fuel line?

Is it possible, (without hurting yourself), to get a shot of how the back of the gauge looks with those fittings?

I have 5/16 fuel line running the whole way to the gauge, except for the copper line that comes out of the back of the gauge.

[STV_Keith]

Funny enough, I'll be under the deck replacing that gauge tonight (after 3 years of beating it up, the liquid started leaking out of the face - slimy silicone). I'll try to get a picture.

The tubing is just 1/8" capillary tubing, DOT approved. Any hose shop should have it.

[Riverman]

John, use a small diameter tube like Keith did. If it ever does fail, your gasoline bath will be smaller!

[jmg944t]

I know it is more expensive but with the risk of fire arising from that tube and all the joints why don't people use an electric guage and sender?

[johnt]

I hope you are not running a fuel line up into the passenger area to a mechanical gauge !!? I to am looking at installing a fuel gauge. I am looking at a elec. gauge, stewart warner, that summit racing has, its priced about $80, part #SWW-114218, 0-100 PSI. Have not been able to confirm accuracy yet. lot cheaper than Auto meter and I have not found out why yet. Those AN fittings look nice though..

[STV_Keith]

I like mechanical much better. If you're worried about it, run an isolator. My eye is always on the gauge - if it sprung a leak, the FP would drop and I'd be on the kill switch and looking for a problem.

[jphii]

Just put it on the motor and don't worry about it!

[STV_Keith]

Looks good, but kinda hard to see from the drivers seat.

[johnt]

I looked for one of those but all I could find was a low pressure one, 15 lbs., does someone make a high pressure isolator? I will still say, I doubt anyone could always spot a fuel leak and shut everything down before their wife/kids/grandchildren, or anyone else for that mater, had the potential to be set on fire. Hope you at least have everyone sign a disclaimer before they get on board...

[jphii]

They're all over ebay. I think I paid 20 bucks for mine. The same guy had 0-15 and a couple of other range gauges. $80 is crazy. Using plastic tubing you should never have a problem with fuel leaks if it is installed properly.

[johnt]

.."should never".. rest my case, we are talking about wive's/kids/grandchildren..and of course FIRE!!!!!!!,,thanks for the heads up on Ebay on the isolator, I will take another look..

[jphii]

.."should never".. rest my case, we are talking about wive's/kids/grandchildren..and of course FIRE!!!!!!!

I don't wanna sound like a *****he@d, but the chances are so small it's not even worth worryin about. There are many other things to worry about when you wanna go fast. And if your not going that fast, you don't need to worry about fuel pressure, depending on the state of tune of your motor, of course. Don't turn having a fuel pressure gauge into a bigger issue than it is. That's why I keep mine back at the powerhead. As long as I know it's ok when I'm under the cowl, I don't worry about it.

Just my 2c.

[gselite2000]

I prefer to keep things isolated back where the fuel is, and send a wire up front.


If you are willing to spend a little more money, try Nordskog M8034-RB Digital Fuel Pressure Gauge and Nordskog S8434 Sending unit.

Install the sending unit after the fuel pump, but still back where the fuel and pump are located. Send the wires up front to the gauge.

Just a thought. I just installed them and works and looks great.

Scott

[SportJ-US-1]

There is no sanctioning body that allows a pressurized fuel line in the driver compartment. There is a reason for this and it has to do with fire and fuel not mixing very well. Never ever have a fuel line under pressure in any passenger or driver compartment. I installed many fuel pressure gauges, but electric only in the passenger compartment. There may be a Coast Guard Reg against it, but I haven't researched it either. And to say the chances are to low to worry about get people hurt and killed on a regular basis. But then again being stupid is self correcting in most cases.

[Raceman]

At the risk of over emphasizing, a fuel line to a guage up in the driver's compartment is insane, regardless of what it's made of. Use either an electric one or an isolator. Mallory usta' make an isolator for up to 80 lbs, but since they were sold I don't know what their product line is. Anybody's isolator will work with anybody's guage, because it's just a mechanical "ISOLATOR" and is not calibrated in any way. The difference between the 40 and 80 lb units is not how they read, but rather the pressure they're safe against without losing the diaphram in the middle. I've used isolators for years and never had a problem. It's fairly important to get all the air out of the line on the guage side, which is usually filled with anti freeze, although water works just as well if the boat is never subjected to freezing temps. I think they cost 50 bucks or better, but that's a small price to pay to be safe from class 3 burns, and just like SportJ said, no sanctioning body is going to allow a fuel line to the driver's compartment, and a coast guard boat or even a game warden that's payin' attention would have a heart attack over it too.

[WATERWINGS]

What is an isolater, and how does it work with a mech. gauge?

[Raceman]

An isolator is a rubber diaphram between 2 alum pieces. It gets gas to one side and a pushes the diaphram against a non flamable fluid in the other side and line to the guage, usually anti freeze/water mixture. It works the same as solid fluid would, just keeps gas from going all the way to the guage. I've mounted em several ways, but prefer a T right off the fuel pump with the isolator threaded onto it, then a plastic fluid line from there to the guage. Getting the fluid line bled to zero air is important.

[Mark75H]

Funny enough, I'll be under the deck replacing that gauge tonight (after 3 years of beating it up, the liquid started leaking out of the face - slimy silicone).

The liquid is usually glycerin. If you have a gage with a vent and need to refill that type .... you can buy small bottles of glycerin at your local beauty supply retailer.

[Raceman]

We're talkin' about 2 different liquids here. The liquid in the guage face is usually glycerin, but it doesn't mix with the liquid in the line which is usually just water or anti freeze, or anti freeze and water, or whatever.

[bigbore]

i did split mine by the dash to install a presure guage,thats the key dont split the line unless you have to there are stipulations involving this situation,how much presure your going to run,stuff like that,the rubber line is only good up to 15pds. is what i was told and i got lots of zipties on every connection.there is another thing,it does depend on the brand of line you go with assuming your running 3/8 line some brands fit the 3/8 barb fittings extremely tight and some not so tight,look into that before you buy.

[STV_Keith]

Hey John, here's that picture I told you I'd take. Sorry it took so long. The FP gauges is the one in the middle. The other mechanical gauge to it's right (as we're looking at it) is water pressure.

http://www.speedcraving.com/stv/dash/fp-hookup.jpg

[WATERWINGS]

Thanks Keith,

I went ahead and ordered an electrical gauge anyway, it should be here in a few days, along with a BIG EGT.

.........SOOOOOO.......I will have a mech. gauge for sale here in a few days.

It has only about4 or 5 hours of use on it.