STV Euro Gauge size change 4" to 5"

[tdogcarter]

I have a new STV Euro that has the standard Speedo and Tach and want to put in the Monster 5" gauges. How can I do this and get the larger size without messing up the current locations.
I will attach two pics of the current gauges, but I want to remove the Tach and Speedo and put in the Monster Series Livorsi gauges that are 5" big for both the Tach and Speedo. What can I do to get the holes bigger for these gauges. I know you normally use a hole saw to drill these holes from the factory but without a solid dash right now, that will be hard to do.

But I want 5" gauges where these are currently, Can that be done?

Thanks

Trey Carter

[time warp]

I would use a Roto-zip, kind of like a small router but with a bit that will cut, just make sure that you make a good mark for how big the hole needs to be(you can offset it from the current hole) and then be very careful with the cutter. I then finish it off with a small drum sander but a file will work as well, just a little slower. You could actually use the drum sander for the whole thing but it would be a lot of sanding.

Good Luck,
Caleb

[ProComp]

But when I increased the size of my little guages to the monster sized ones, I took some would, made a cut out the original size and attached it to a piece of wood across the back. Get some to hold the wood on the back side and re-drill like its an original dash. Not sure I explained that very well?

[tdogcarter]

I normally would not mess with it but I am ordering all new livorsi gauges, and it isn't that much for the larger 5" gauges, which I have seen in a few boats, and you can really see the numbers alot better when you just glancing at them.
I think I understand what your saying, you are basically saying to cut a circle that fits the current opening perfect, then attach that to a board that clamps to the dash. This would then allow me to redrill the dash at the exact same spot as if the dash was not cut at all. That is an idea. I would probably then epoxy the circle in because I don't have a way to attach the board to the back of the dash without having all the gauges out. But I could remove all the gauges all at once.

That seems like a good idea. Thanks Brad

[pyro]

Ah, he beat me to the punch. Yep, fill and drill...

[tdogcarter]

What size hole saw do I need and what is a good brand to get so I don't stress crack the gel coat?
Anything I should do special so I do not stress crack the gel coat?

Does it look like I might be too close on the speedo to the top of the top and where the top of the gauges are?

[Raceman]

The easy way....... put a piece of wood on the back of the dash and use a longer bit in the holesaw to reach it. That way you don't have to go to the trouble of trying to fit a piece inside the hole. Even a thin piece of plywood held on with a couple of wood screws will do it. Once the holesaw gets a quarter inch or so into the dash the bit, which is just a centering device won't be important.

[150aintenuff]

Im with timewarp... trace and rotozip, just goSLOWand use maskingtape over the area to keep the gel from cracking... cut it slightly undersize and sand smooth to fit

[ProComp]

Mask the area being cut and run the whole saw in reverse until your through the gel coat. Change it to forward when your into the wood. It works with less chance of any chipping.

Cut some paper templates and tape them to the dash to get an idea on where to drill and how it will look. You can get matching Livori Monster Guages in the standard size with big numbers. If you go GPS and a Tach recall you can look at everything once your stopped. I think there is a pic on stvowners of mine will all new Monster series. Check the dash thread under readers rides.

[dma251]

I have to second the idea of backing up the instrument panel with a piece of scrap wood and using the holesaw. Reason I say that is because I love rotozips, but they get away from your pattern REALLY fast. It's pretty risky on an area that would be very complicated to fix considering you are already installing the largest gauge available. If it gets out of hand you have nothing to cover it with.

The minor amount of labor involved in cutting a small piece of wood and screwing it into the back of the panel is nothing compared to the damage an errant Rotozip will do.

Been there already...

[Rickracer]

....you could screw on the current hole size holesaw blade inside the new size holesaw blade. And definitely mask the area well. :cool:

[150aintenuff]

Tust from the pics I wouldnt want to enlarge the holes downward any more... to much risk of cracking the dash between gauges.. That is why I said rotozip... the bottom of the gauge cutout can be left at the same height and just enlarge the hole upwards and out to get the room needed to fit the 5 " gauge..

[Scream And Fly]

The easy way....... put a piece of wood on the back of the dash and use a longer bit in the holesaw to reach it. That way you don't have to go to the trouble of trying to fit a piece inside the hole. Even a thin piece of plywood held on with a couple of wood screws will do it. Once the holesaw gets a quarter inch or so into the dash the bit, which is just a centering device won't be important.



Norris hit the nail on the head - this is the perfect way to do it.

[tdogcarter]

What I figured I was going to do was make some cardboard cut outs the size I need for the 5" monster gauge cut out. I also will make some cut outs the overal size with the monster rim so I know the overall size. Then pull both gauges out of the dash, and overlay both them and trace both the sizes with a pencil to see what I need to cut out, and how it will look overall.
From the Factory the gauges were added and they kept them close together so maybe it cannot be done. I just need to know before I order my gauges which will be before the end of the month, so I can get the Group order deal.

[150aintenuff]

re read my post or CAlebs post above ya.... if you have top and side clearance there is ZERO reason to think that you cant add them.... just lineup the 5" template with the bottom of the existing hole.... done this 1000's of times in cars, boats, and other equipment... and it works, just takes a steady hand patience and a good trace on the cutout and above all LEAVE your trace line and SAND to fit BY HAND to ensure you dont oblong the hole by usin a machine..

to fit 5" gauges it looks to me that they need to be offset to avoid weakening the dash between the existing speedo and smaller gauges....

I personally wouldnt want them ANY closer in a boat that at speed can start vibrating the structure due to the chop on the water slapping the hull.... you have room at the top and sides that you dont at the bottom of the gauges... I think Caleb said it right by reccomending the roto zip OR just order the 4" so ya dont have to worry bout it..


relooked at the pic........ those LOOK like 3 3/8" gauges......... I could be wrong but if they are no ammount of offset will let the 5" fit IMO......

[tdogcarter]

The speedo and tach are the standard beede gauges that Wally puts in his boats if you do not request the upgraded gauges. Not sure the exact size of the gauges, but they should be the 3 3/8" cut out size.

I know I could put in the 5" Monster Tach without any problems, guess the only question would be with the speedo, if I can put in that one without looseing all the structure between the gauges.

I will check on that before I put the boat away for good next weekend.

I have the cardboard cookie cutouts to check on now. One for the cutout of 4 5/8" and then I also have one for the 5" needed for the gps speedo with the monster rim on the monster gauges look.

Also I will have to look to see on the speedo that I do not get too close to the top of the gauge deck so that I am not cutting into the top.

And yes I could just put in the standard size or same size tach and speedo, but that would be too easy, and for $30 each you get alot bigger read out to look at when your driving over 60 and need to only be able to glance down to see the tach.

[STV_Keith]

Raceman hit it on the head. Looking at the area you have to work with though, you might have to lose the gauge bezels to get it to all fit next to each other. Here's my before and afters:

Before:
http://www.speedcraving.com/stv/dash/old-dash.jpg

Middle:
http://www.speedcraving.com/stv/stv_repair/Boat-stripping_6-14/front-no-gauges-s.jpg
If you look at the two big gauge holes, the one on the left is for a 3-3/8" gauge, and the one on the right is for a 5" gauge.

After:
http://www.speedcraving.com/stv/stv_repair/boat_rerig_4-9-04/images/DSCN2137.jpg

[tdogcarter]

Stv Keith,

What size holesaw did you get? Did you do the procedure the exact way Raceman said, and the saw did not want to walk or make the hole oblong?

I was not planning on using the bezels, since I was going with the Monster Series, I was going to use the Monster Rim, or Super Rim and that would be finished.

What Rims do you have on those gauges? What tach is that? Is that an Autometer tach with a special rim?

Thanks for the pics

[STV_Keith]

Sort of. I had to special order the 4-5/8" hole saw, since 4-1/2" and 4-3/4" are the standards. What I did was tape the dash with masking tape, as suggested above, then I used two of those wood clips from Home Depot (sprung clamp deal) to hold the fixture to the dash.

My fixture was a piece of 1/2" plywood, with a piece of 3/4" plywood screwed to the front of it. The 3/4" piece was approximately centered to where the hole would go, but small enough to still fit inside the stock gauge hole.

So now you have a piece of 1/2" secured to the back of the dash, where the 3/4" piece brings it's face almost flush with the front of the dash. Predrill the center hole through the 3/4" and 1/2" plys, then line up the outer edge of the holesaw with where you want the gauge. Tighten the clamps and go for it.

Those are the standard Autometer super bezel rims. That's their 4494 tach. Has to be setup for Merc use. Try http://www.rexmar.com - they generally stock the tach and matching speedo. I used their 120mph GPS unit that matched.

[tdogcarter]

Keith,

Where did you get the hole saw? I found one, and it was like $175 for the 4 5/8" Why do they have to do such an odd size. 4 3/4" is everywhere and can be gotten for $30

Only have found one place with 4 5/8" and its like $200 shipped

[time warp]

That's why I used the Roto-zip, I already had it, if you are going to buy a hole saw just get the 4 1/2" one and then file or sand the hole out to fit, you only need to take 1/16" off all the way around, won't take long especially if you get a little drum sander that will go on a drill or die grinder.

Caleb

[STV_Keith]

Here's the link to the Lenox page with the part number. Any tool supply that can buy Lenox can get it: http://www.lenoxsaw.com/holesaw.htm

The one you need is Lenox #30074-74L. You can try to buy it direct from Lenox at 800-628-8810. They list it around $56 on their website. You could also try:
http://lenox.tools-hills.com/Lenox-30074-74L-Holesaw-B00065UAPY.htm
http://tooldigger.com/l/Lenox/Lenox_30074_74L_Holesaw_B00065UAPY.htm
http://www.toolmunchers.com/tool_brands/l/Lenox/Lenox_30074_74L_Holesaw_B00065UAPY.htm
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00065UAPY/002-4669267-2435253?v=glance&n=228013


Here's the Jig I made up.
http://www.speedcraving.com/stv/misc/dscn4782.jpg

And here's the jig "fastened up" behind a paper that's there to represent the dash. :)
http://www.speedcraving.com/stv/misc/dscn4783.jpg

[Rickracer]

Looks sweet too! :cool:

[tdogcarter]

Gauges have been changed out with the help of Gordie Miller. The larger 5" gauges fit just fine and look great.

[tdogcarter]

They did have to be rewired because of the size and placement