View Full Version : Car heater question
delawarerick
11-17-2005, 06:24 PM
About 3 months ago had the antifreeze flushed it got cold and no heat. it seems to get colder as it blows this is on a 99 ford taurus. Any thoughts? Rick
godspeed
11-17-2005, 06:56 PM
you have to make sure the heater core isnt clogged if the car gets to temp and the heater core has antifreeze circulating though it and the blower works you have heat ..
Ted Stryker
11-17-2005, 07:03 PM
If it's low on coolant you can get the same symptom...
shadowman
11-17-2005, 07:14 PM
Watch your temp. gauge closely. I had the same problem with a truck one time heater started blowing cold air and I was messing with the dials. Meantime the temp. shot up on the engine, and I blew the radiator.
delawarerick
11-17-2005, 07:55 PM
How do you unclog a heater core? Every now and then when I turn it on it starts to get hot and then cold and longer on the colder it gets. Rick
AwesomeBullet
11-17-2005, 07:59 PM
The cooling system is low on coolant. Be sure the engine is cold, top it off with the appropriate coolant, and you are good to go. Don't mix colors, green gets green, orange gets orange, and yellow gets yellow.... ;)
bigbore
11-17-2005, 08:20 PM
you know (just thought i would mention)even these newer cars have thermostats still weather its running dexcool or not (doesnt matter)if im not mistaken ford hadnt switched over to dexcool yet in 99 like dude said though MATCH COLORS)that should be all ya need to know.technically it shouldnt be running low on coolent (you wouldnt think)if it was the stat but if the stat is stuck closed the coolent will get hot enough to burn off and evaporate.
Ted Stryker
11-17-2005, 09:04 PM
I would think that if the T-stat was stuck it would have long since overheated, be it stuck closed or open... An engine can disguise a coolant leak, especially in humid or rainy conditions... It can be a leaky intake manifold, the coolant can get steamed away abruptly after leakage... Heaven forbid that a cylinder is drinking the water... At any rate, I would directly go check you coolant level and go from there, sounds like you cooling system is circulating air pockets...
I'd guess thermostat stuck or done. If you're core is shot, your windows will fog up and you might notice anti freeze under your paseneger floor mat. Trust me, in Winnipeg, i've had a few issues with winter heating over the years. -35 celcius will do that to s###
transomstand
11-17-2005, 09:22 PM
You had the service done while the weather was warm. A lot of guys will refill the cooling system and forget to run the heater. First time it gets cold, you flip the lever, but the heater core is empty, no heat. As it starts to circulate, you will get the occasional blast of hot air, but now, the system is too low on coolant to keep the core full. Get it full again, and you should be ok. Start with a cold engine, take the cap off, top off the coolant, start engine, let it warm up with the cap still off, as it warms up, it should bleed off the remaining air by itself. Keep topping it off slowly, it will start to push coolant back out when it's full. When you've got plenty of heat, reinstall cap and your good to go. It probably doesn't need to said, but NEVER take the radiator cap off a hot engine.
Pete
Ted Stryker
11-17-2005, 09:30 PM
I learned that the hard way while breaking in a Cam when I was 13... Dad's response, " Squeeze the radiator hose to check the pressure Dumbass "...
delawarerick
11-17-2005, 10:01 PM
Thanks for all the replys I was told today they needed to flush again and it could need a new heater core. I will start by filling cold and running. Thanks Rick
Move to a warmer climate where heaters aren't needed.... Don't be dumb like me.
Hottrucks
11-18-2005, 05:59 PM
Sometimes only sometimes you can reverse the flow on the heater just switch the return and filler lines this will help to blow out the ends of the core. try a swap and a GOOD flush.. Off the record I have disconected heater cores and filled them with CLR it will clean most any build up on them do not run tru the engine then flush with water and reinstall lines. It can be a B*itch to change a core and any way to avoid it will be best!
delawarerick
11-18-2005, 06:13 PM
It wound up being the core is clogged. To replace the whole car comes apart and cost would be around 1000 even freon lines have to be broke and air bags removed. Gonna try a flush or else a packard heater core with blower mounted to back seat will be installed. GP-1 we are about 6 months out for a move to Fl. Really thanks everybody for all your help. I am done with fords. Got to try something new but will wait till move I will be the one driving with icecycles hanging from my ears. Rick
godspeed
11-18-2005, 10:34 PM
ok sounds like i was right on that one , that is usally the problem i had to change one in my 96 mustang gt last year and the entire dash had to be removed what a bitch to do :mad:
transomstand
11-19-2005, 07:21 AM
I would do like Hotrucks said, back flush the core only. Do not flush the complete system again. Chemical/pressure flushing is very hard on cooling systems, when I was running a service dept, I quit doing it, too many cars came back the next day with bad water pumps, radiators, etc. Since you've decided your not going to change the core, you can have them get pretty aggresive with pressure and/or chemical flushing the core. Not much to lose at this point.
Pete
BUSHWACKER
12-03-2005, 05:01 PM
Thexton makes it or used too, it's a heater core flusher ya hook it up to a garden hose fill with water close valve then put compressed air to it thru the fitting works great, however it's here in Fla. If it leaks afterwards put sealer in it. Can try pullin both hoses off to the core & blastin water thru hose nozzle do it both ways, back flush it. DON'T BREAK THE PIPES OFF THE CORE!
lokinutz
12-15-2005, 12:45 PM
If core is clogged, the outgoing hose shouldn't flow any water when disconnected. If this is the case and you aren't going to change it out, you should look at bypassing the heater core so that the warm fluid will flow correctly. A lot of cars use heated return fluid from the core to heat other parts of the motor (usually intake) for better cold weather warm up and efficiency.
Also, if both hoses (in and out) get HOT while the car is running, then fluid is running and there may be a problem in your controls not changing the airflow correctly. Thats what I am going through now in my vette with electronic A/C controls.
Just some thoughts...probobly already have it fixed.
This works for cooling but I'm sure you could heat similarily with a propane tank.
triple dude
12-15-2005, 04:12 PM
This works for cooling but I'm sure you could heat similarily with a propane tank.
:D :D :D :D Love the Kmart tail light also. I'm surprised it doesn't have a 2x4 rear bumper. But He's got a Lincoln!!!!
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