newbie here...Merc1150 starting question

[cb_cyclone]

I am having a big problem getting my 1973 Merc1150 started when its stone cold, no problems once its benn running. Just as its ready to fire while cranking, the starter disengages from the flywheel and I have to release the key, wait for starter to stop spinning the try again. This goes on for 1/2 hour or so, till it finally starts, then I have no problems the rest of the day. Any advice/comments/direction would be great. Thanks, Tony

[transomstand]

First thing to do is try some light lubricant (oil, WD40) on the shaft under the starter drive. The drive may just not be firing deep enough into the flywheel teeth, when the engine starts to fire, the drive drops back out before the the engine actually starts. Also check for a fully charged battery, clean and tight connections, all these can create the same problem.

[86vintage]

WD-40 Is extremely flamable and should never be used near starters or alternaters.
Once you get WD-40 near Brushes/pick ups - instant melt done!!!!!

James - 86vintage

[crazy horse]

Your starter isn't the problem. Inlines can be tuff to start. When you try starting it, First tilt the engine down so the fuel can run into the engine from the carbs, Pump the primer till it's hard and then try to flood the engine a little with the primer. Mines not ready to start till I see a little fuel spill on the water. :D Give it some gas and hold the choke down till it's starts. I don't think you can flood a inline, I've dumped a ton a gas into the carbs and never had one flood out. Make sure you run good gas and oil and it'll light up. O'yea welcome to scream and fly. ;) Just thought of something else, You also need to check and make sure that the choke shutters are closing off the top two carbs. The black plastic carb covers have springs on them that should push the shutters tight to the carbs.

[150aintenuff]

WD-40 is a light oil, the flamibility of it is more so the AEROSOL propellent.. once its on the parts and the aerosol is evaperated the flamibility drops down.. I prefer dry graphite lube on the starter shafts anyway because it keeps gunk from sticking to the shaft.


heres how I start my MERC850 and it starts right up EVERY time.


pump primer till hard... activate choke (mine is manual with a pull start)
Advance idle throttle till it stops
crank over engine with choke on full.. should fire very quickly if tuned up and everything is ok..
engine takes hold and starts to rev... drop high idle throttle to about 1300 -1500 to warm up go boating....

[Bruster]

Your starter isn't the problem. Inlines can be tuff to start. When you try starting it, First tilt the engine down so the fuel can run into the engine from the carbs, Pump the primer till it's hard and then try to flood the engine a little with the primer. Mines not ready to start till I see a little fuel spill on the water. :D Give it some gas and hold the choke down till it's starts. I don't think you can flood a inline, I've dumped a ton a gas into the carbs and never had one flood out. Make sure you run good gas and oil and it'll light up. O'yea welcome to scream and fly. ;) Just thought of something else, You also need to check and make sure that the choke shutters are closing off the top two carbs. The black plastic carb covers have springs on them that should push the shutters tight to the carbs.

I'm putting a primer from a newer Merc on an inline project I'm working on. I plan to completely remove the choke shutters and the choke screen. I'm thinking I can plumb the primer lines right in to the balance tube fittings. I will be running an electric fuel pump also. Pretty sure this sucker will start when I just look at the key. I've done this same change on some of the smaller Mercs feeding the fuel in to the back carbs just like factory. Works like a champ. :D

[sho305]

My '73 1500 can't get enough gas starting either. I have been through the entire fuel system. Best way is to pump the bulb as hard as it gets, idle speed highest, hold choke button on, then turn key. If it don't fire in about 6 seconds solid cranking, then I pump the bulb again and it starts. I also have the idle set a little rich to help some with warmup. It will load up at idle if it is really hot out, say 95F. Once warm it starts at idle fine. I do trim the motor level or low if I can on cold start, that helps. A primer would be great. Make sure you got a tune up; you know good plugs and gas and all that.

I would be careful lubing the starter shaft with oil. It can run into the starter under it and trash your brushes. Brushes are contacts for electricity, and contacts and oil don't mix. If you have to put small amount (just a film) on shaft and wipe any extra off. I like dry type of lube for that better unless its a brass bushing in there, then you can get that good and wet with oil and then clean it all up. Brass will hold oil for a while, but don't let any into the starter case or leave enough to run onto it later. That can be hard to do, so then I use superlube. Superlube is a synthetic light grease/oil good for bike chains. It is not as thick as grease, not sticky at all, does not attract dirt, and a light film stays there for a long time. Also is somewhat waterproof, and I like synthetic lubes.

I think I would have to try real hard to get a fire going off a starter with wd-40, like maybe spray it on the starter with the cowl on to supply an enclosed area (near impossible). Of course, being inside a marine motor one would assume it was explosion proof to start with. WD-40 does burn nice if you are trying to get a fire going however. Anyway, I would not use that stuff as it gets sticky after it dries and will cause more problems later with the starter.

[cb_cyclone]

Will give these tips a try this w/e.... thanks again, this board is great!