Which trans cooler? Don't want to run too cold

[Ron V]

I've done a search here on past posts and found some comments that if a trans were to run "too cold" it could affect the ability of the fluid to flow and lubricate, and also not let condensation burn off. I don't want to buy a cooler with the intent of extending the trans life and then have the opposite effect.

I called around and got some prices, best I've found is $199.95 installed and that price is the same for any Hayden cooler I would want. They have little ones for towing up to 2500 lbs. for little cars, one for up to 5000 lbs., and then the BIG one which I am not sure of the trailer weight rating but the GCVR is 26,000 lbs.

Here's the situation, I just went through 2 trans failures in a 2000 Buick Century. From what I understand, that's no big surprise with the 4T65 trans. I just bought a brand new 2005 Toyota Tacoma, and while I have faith in the Japs, I am willing to spend the $200 for cheap insurance against a repeat. The truck is rated to tow 3500 lbs., and I believe my rig to be about 1800 - 2000 lbs. Mostly I tow within 20 miles of home on fairly flat terrain or gently rolling hills, but occasionally may want to take the boat from Chicago to St. Louis, possibly to Arkansas, or to northern Wisconsin or Michigan. I also drive quite a bit in heavy stop-and-go traffic. However, I am not abusive to my vehicles and I do live where the temperature can hit -20 F, but typically hangs between 0 and 30 degrees in the winter, 40-60 in the spring and fall, and 75-90 degrees with a few 95+ days in the summer.

Which cooler is the right one? I'd inherently want the biggest one, but maybe there is more to it than that for what I'm doing. Thanks.

[Rickracer]

....there is no such thing as too cool, it ain't gonna happen. You want the trans temp to be between 175 and 210. 225 is marginal, and 240~250 starts burning fluid. :cool:

[Ted Stryker]

I have a 1992 Chevrolet 1/2 ton with a 305 and an automatic... My trans is the Turbo 700 which aren't very strong and it don't have a cooler other than the factory flow through the radiator... I plan on installing a cooler, so I understand your concern but if your Toyota crapped out pulling 2000 lbs. under any condition, it would be the first one that I've heard of... Unless you had your accelerator buried and you where pulling your boat up Pikes Peak, I think your good to go...

[Ranger390]

I have two on my tow vehicle.... both Hayden stacked plate units. One 11x11 and one 10x7. The units are in series with each other. They are the first thing the hot fluid runs thru, then thru the cooler in the radiator. I also have a trans temp gauge in the return line to the tranny.

A couple things here, even in the dead of winter at 70mph, those tranny coolers will probably freeze (not really) the tranny fluid, but the radiator cooler will actually heat it back up to around coolant temp, which is about 160 on my temp gauge. In the summer while towing it jumps to 170, but I am not doing 70mph either, I drive slower when towing and I watch that gauge on the big hills. I have learned how to adjust my driving (downshifting, acceleration, etc) to lower the trans temp if it rises.

Make sure to get a stacked plate model, they cool much better than the tube and fin type.


Geo

[dc96819]

B&M has one with a fan on it,you can add a var thermostat if you want

http://www2.propichosting.com/GetThumb.php?pa=421567405&sub=3[/IMG]

[150aintenuff]

afgter smoking 3 ford E4OD trans behid my PSD i installed 3 26K hayden coolers, and removed both the radiator and factory tube cooler gauge reads 140 unloaded at 60 mph. and pulling a total GCVW of 22-26K it gets up to MAYBE 180... needless to say trans problems are no longer a problem... as long as your fluid can evaproate any condensation (140+) the cooler the better.. less breakage, thicker oil film higher viscosity.. more rotection... down side... NO HEAT in cab.. radiator is so large and thermostat begins to poen at about 150 so water to heater core doesnt get hot enough

[ScarabEpic22]

I just installed a 18000GVWR TRU-COOL cooler in my 02 TrailBlazer with the 4.2L I6. Havent had a chance to tow with it yet (waiting for Memorial Day to pickup the boats!) but around town it seems to cool down a little quicker. I need to monitor the temp, but dont have a temp guage yet.

Anyone have an Aeroforce Interceptor guage they wanna sell me???

[gfinch]

To the aux. then to the oem. back to the trans.

[ScarabEpic22]

To the aux. then to the oem. back to the trans.

I would recommend the factory oe cooler first and then to the aux cooler as then the fluid will be the coolest going back to the trans. The factory coolers usually end up not doing that great of a job, so it is better to have the fluid go through them first. This is what I know and it applies to every single Chevy guy I have talked to, this is how they set theirs up.

[Ted Stryker]

That is true... If the remote cooler was place before the radiator ( in terms of flow ), the fluid would be comparatively cool before entering the radiator.. Only to be reheated by the radiator up to your engine's coolant temp...

[Rickracer]

.....if you can keep your trans at a mild normal coolant temp (170° to 190°) that would be grand, but virtually all OE towing packages go through the radiator cooler first, then through the auxilliary cooler, and that's the way I've always set them up. Then again, I've always lived in Florida, and it really doesn't freeze here, but it does get really hot. :cool: