View Full Version : Need x-flow help
lokinutz
06-19-2005, 01:10 PM
Working on a 79 175 x-flow with no spark to port 3 clyinders. Motor is spotless, have checked all conections and grounds. Found nothing. Any ideas on what to check and how to do it. My crap clymers manual is only good for twisting the pages up to start fires with. I didn't see wiring for an ignition delete for shifting. Any help would be appreciated...except to throw it away and buy a looper or merc.
76baja18ft
06-19-2005, 01:45 PM
bad power pack on offending side
t2stroke
06-19-2005, 02:37 PM
Swap packs from side to side to prove it is that component. If problem follows the pack then it is the culprit. It can also be one charge coil (stator) since you have no fire for the whole bank.
No shift interuptor for this model. FYI Dan
lokinutz
06-19-2005, 03:32 PM
Will try power pack swap. If it stays, the stator would be the only other possible culprit other than a bad wire somewhere, correct? Thanks for the confirm, didn't think there was a shift interupt.
t2stroke
06-19-2005, 03:58 PM
Yes that is correct and it woukd be most likely a grouded black/yellow wire between the packs. Maybe a crushed wire harness behind another component. FYI Dan
Rickracer
06-19-2005, 04:47 PM
They probably both have the same amount of time on them right? The cost of a pack isn't worth having to get towed in, or trying to get back on 3 cylinders. :cool:
lokinutz
06-19-2005, 10:52 PM
Well Rick, you know where I will be ordering them from. Anyone have any ideas on how to get the shift shaft apart from the linkage one this thing to change the waterpump. Almost looks like it unscrews somehow. Its nothing like the one bolt on my 87 looper.
Rickracer
06-20-2005, 04:29 AM
...., just above the lower pan, there is a bolt that goes through a "clevis" in the shift linkage from the port side, horizontally. You'll need a 1/4" drive, 3/8" swivel socket and about a 12" to 16" extension to get to it. Put the L/U in reverse before you start (linkage down). When you go to put it back, put a bit of masking tape on the head of the bolt to keep it in the socket, and maybe a piece of electrical tape around the swivel of the socket to keep the bolt & socket from drooping. You WILL cuss a bit during this operation. :cool:
lokinutz
06-20-2005, 09:57 AM
Rick, I am with you on what you just said. My shift shaft is just like that. Problem is, the older '79 is different. It almost looks like the shaft is threaded into a collar. That collar is actually riveted to the linkage. That linkage is totally different from my 87 too. The boat is on its way over this morning, so I will dig into it better and figure something out. Maybe I was just being dumb yesterday and missed it. Thanks for the help though.
chris_lacey
06-20-2005, 10:12 AM
For the extra 10 minutes it takes, I knock the carbs off it. Soooo much easier to get at that pesky bolt through the clevis.
Forkin' Crazy
06-20-2005, 02:21 PM
It's way under there. I use a 1/4" drive impact swivel. It has a spring that creates enough resistance that it will say put. I also use an awl to aline the rod. Be careful not to bend the shift rod. tilt the motor all the way up before you pull it off. A bent rod is a pain in the ass.
lokinutz
06-20-2005, 02:40 PM
Here are a couple pictures of what Im dealing with. Totally different than what I have seen. The two parallel arms you see are pinned (something like a rivet) onto a collar on the top of the shift shaft. It almost looks like the shift shaft threads into the collar.
Forkin' Crazy
06-20-2005, 02:44 PM
Are you sure it's a '79? '79 up they are the same.
'77 and '78 are transition years and were different. And I think '76 and below are the same.
lokinutz
06-20-2005, 02:46 PM
Damn it! Your right. I just realized the hull's a '77. The owner told me '79. Most likely a '77 175. Any ideas about this thing then?
t2stroke
06-20-2005, 03:49 PM
"78 is the last year for your style. "79 is the straight rod previously mention.
Pull the 5/8" bolt first. This works best with a short 3/8" drive socket adapted to a 1/4" rachet handle. After you pull that bolt, then remove the 3/8" nut holding linkage together. It is just pinned on one end. Be sure the bushings are in good shape before re-assembly.Reverse the operation to re-assemble.
No piece of cake, but not as bad as the later V-4 cross-flows. At least you can see the darn thing on a V-6.
By the way 1976-78 shift backassards from later models. FYI Dan
Rickracer
06-20-2005, 04:47 PM
They can be a real pain too, but once you've done it a time or two, it's not that bad. :cool:
lokinutz
06-20-2005, 04:54 PM
Thanks so much guys. That all makes sense. Will do as stated when I get the water pump...Speaking of which, did you get my phone message, Rick?
Rickracer
06-20-2005, 05:18 PM
Good talking to ya. :D :cool:
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