bobs cone installation

[Steven]

i just got the cone tacked on and now im wondering if i have the correct one. im not impressed by the way it looks compared to the land and sea version. it fit much better and snug and had the fill-drain hole built in the cone and was longer. bobs doesnt go that far up to reach the screw. maybe im wrong about this but it seems that it will require more epoxy than the l & s and they provide half as much. if i blend in the bottom where drain is, it looks like i will fill over the screw to do it. this is a 2.5 150 stock case. naturally l & s said their cone was unavailable...what a surprise :( heres some pics

[2fast4u2]

I remember i saw a coned 200 case with a bobs and the epoxy was starting to seperate....I was AMAzed at how much filler had to be used in the case! Your not alone!

Ryno

[wideglide55]

All nosecones peel paint and lose filler like clockwork.The faster you go the sooner the putty will fly off. Unless you like to fill sand and paint all the time get a sporty case and never patch another one.

[Steven]

lets try again

[Steven]

more photos.

[mendo]

Usually I work on the cone first, file here and there, get it to fit better before it gets welded on. I would cut that off and make it fit better first.


The chances of filling that and having it stay are slim.

:(

[Steven]

i dont believe can be cut any more. its flush. :mad:

[crazy horse]

My land & Sea has been on my case for over twenty five years. I wish I could find one for my other XS case.

[1badskeeter]

Take that off and ill bye it from ya

[Raceman]

I've always sent mine to Bob's and had them put em on. They jig fit em to get em on dead straight and I've never had one crack, peel, etc. They usta' turn em around in a day or two also. It's well worth the small fee they charge.

[gambler183gt]

Steve,I went through the same thing. Mendo is right,I filed some metal off on the inside of the cone to get a better fit. The hardest part was getting it perfectly aligned with the prop shaft. I duct taped the gaps and poured the epoxy down from the top to fill in the gap at the front,once it cured I removed it and used filler to do the rest. As for the drain plug I got the filler pretty close to finished except for around the plug. I took a chrome socket that was a tad bigger than the plug and taped it over it,then used the filler to build that area up to the rest. The filler wont stick to the socket and can be removed when it cures. It took a lot of sanding and filling to get the contour right but I was satisfied when done. After that I sold the 1/2"tap I bought to do my lowers and will send them to get done by Bobs from know on.One more thing, make sure the epoxy is mixed good or it may not set up properly. Lee NJ

[Steven]

could find a l & s i would. it was just a much easier installation. i hate to cut it off, but i may have to to do more grinding. i just thought it would fit about like my old one. its shorter and heavier also.

[Steven]

i guess i'll cut it off and start over. i dont like that big gap i see at all. time to quit mouthing :o and start grinding. ... :)

[Corona Mike]

Steven, like Raceman said Bob's jig-fits their cones but they do use quite a bit of epoxy and filler. They also use to do a little finish grinding/fitting to make sure to minimize the gaps. Bob also use to have some coustom drain plugs that were quite a bit thicker on the top side--for the lack of a better term--so the screw came out flush with the finished case. Try taking it back off and grinding the top "V" area slightly and beveling the bottom rounded area and see if this will close the gap up. Also because of the problems from the past with the epoxy comming loose around the factory water inlets, they started tack welding a piece of aluminum over the inlet holes after the area had been ground flat. That did help in the area of bubbling quite a bit. The turn around on a nose cone instilation isn't neer as good as before the paint jobs are and have allways been poor at best, and the over all quality has slipped since Bob has retired but, for the amount of work involved, still not a bad price.

[Steven]

im sure glad i got some advice from you guys before i started with the putty. i just sold my l & s cone because the case i was going to get already had a cone. that case wasnt any good either!!! :D :D

[godspeed]

one time about 4 years ago i bought one from imco and it fit perfect and had a real nice shape to it i think i payed 100 bucks for it

[Raceman]

Also, I'm not sure you've got much with your tacks there. On the one that I did before I started shippin' em I welded more than that, especially away from critical areas.

[T-REX]

It'z hard ta swaller tha fact ov tha dollars U gotta spend to have bob's install tha cone, but in the long run, it'z worth ever penny(an U know I don't pay nobody to do nutt'in)...I have 3 geer cases wit Bob's cones, they installed them, they are warranteed, and tha correct alignment iz purdy much insured...Tha filler will eventually stary kumm'in off, or crack'in...Therez juss TOO damm many forces on a filler not to take an eventual toll...Heet, vibration, water pressure, hitt'in stuff, U name it...An this ain't ta mention tha aggervation ov all tha grind'in, fill'in, sand'in, prime'in, paint'in, and reely not bein shur it'z rite wher ya want it??....Juss my 3 centz...

[Steven]

last one to do myself. took it off and filed and ground away all morning. still a much bigger gap than the other brand, but better than it was. sure hope its halfassed straight! :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :o

[Raceman]

You could always do what I did to a BRAND NEW, never installed XR6. I decided I was gonna make it all aluminum so I could polish it. That was before the Sportmasters came out. My idea was to weld on it in REAL SMALL doses, so not to get it real hot and warp anything. There was an area that we were gonna add some 1/8 alum to to take up room so the weld wouldn't have to be solid. I gave it to my partner and told him "no hurry", just add a litte every several days when you walk by the TIG, but DON"T GET IT HOT. He called me the next morning and said, "I stayed up late last night and did most of the gearcase, but the driveshaft turns REAL TIGHT. The heat of him doin' it a lot at the same time apparently egg shaped the upper bearing hole. I ended up sellin' the new guts to John W in Savannah and still have the case hangin' on the wall. Somebody REAL SMART with gearcases and an end mill could probably finish it, fix the bore and have a real cool, never run case, but it's over my head.

[Steven]

i appreciate you replying back to me on this. these cases must warp very easily!! i had it tacked again :confused: :eek: didnt realize what i was getting into. why are different brands so different? the land and sea was easy. a different fit and bigger. it took alot of the guessing out. im not saying its better, just easier to install. i liked the speedo hookup too. they no longer make it. anyway, i filed and ground all morning and got a better fit. got everything filled with epoxy and hope hopefully go for a run on friday. :) :)

[Forkin' Crazy]

That sucks that land and sea is getting out. I liked their nose cones and motor mounts. I tried to order a set of V stacks for my Xflow, and they told me thier foundery burned and ruin all the molds... I guess that happened to the cones too.

I used the epoxy that land and sea send with it to blend it to the case and it's not pealing or flaking yet.

[Steven]

you are correct. they provided a lot of epoxy and 1 part also, no mixing. we used it forever on all kinds of things...my cone did fine for 4 summers and no welding until the case went bad. :(

[Steven]

i cant believe the difference raising the motor 1/2 makes. night and day. went one more 1/4 after that. would i notice this if i could go up without the cone if it werent for lw water pickup? not running that fast but its looser and feels easier to unglue from the water. anyways heres the bad news, already lost some putty around the drain plug. got to figure out something out there. glad i tacked it. marine tex seems to be better and easier to work with than the stuff provided. :confused:

[merc326]

i also like my l/s cone, but like everyone said, you need to cut it off and do some grinding, alot of folks move the oil drain to the rear but im not sure if yours can be done that way. it looks like they didnt take time in making sure the fit was better, i might be wrong but thats what it looks like to me. sorry that you have to go through it again but it will be better in the long run.

[Richard]

I put a Hydromotive on mine. The fit was very good from the start. To get around the drain plug thing, I cut a piece of half inch pvc and epoxied in place and then blended around it.

[Steven]

it loose and got a closer fit, still had a gap to fill though not as wide as it was. if it keeps coming apart, i'll get a body shop to try it.

richard, thats a great idea, im going to do that ;) thanks

[Capt.Insane-o]

Bob also use to have some coustom drain plugs that were quite a bit thicker on the top side--for the lack of a better term--so the screw came out flush with the finished case.

I burned a hole right through a case behind the drain plug hole once with a Bob's cone. Made my own plug with an allen head like the new BRP ones, and solved that problem.....