1988 Johnson 60HP fuel issues

[washind]

I just acquired a 1988 Johnson 60HP, model CJ60TLCCR and am having fuel issues.
<O:p</O:p
The engine had been sitting for three years. The first time I started it, it quickly flooded out. I came to realize the lever on the fuel solenoid was set to almost full rich. On the advice of two nice folks at IBOATS, I reset the lever to line up with the solenoid and re-built all three carbs. I also replaced all the old fuel and flushed the lines. With the muffs on, the motor started and ran OK, but needed a little choke to prevent stalling.<O:p</O:p

When I launched the boat, it wouldn’t start or run unless I advanced the lever on the fuel primer solenoid. With the lever set at about ¾ I could run the boat at about half throttle, however it flooded at idle. The choke on the ignition key was also needed to keep it running. When it was running all three cylinders seemed to be performing.

I have since removed the carbs again and am re-soaking the various ports & passages with carb cleaner. It doesn’t look like the venturie tubes can be easily removed and I think they might be constricted? Any advice on this front would be appreciated.

I have removed the VRO pump and hoses, and visually everything looks ok. When I blow/suck into the ‘pulse tube’ it seems to operate OK. Oil and gas pickup and lines seem to be OK (I also note the primer solenoid seems to getting enough gas anyway). I did locate a fuel filter on the feed of the VRO and it seems to be clean. Cylinder compression is ok.<O:p

I will test the fuel flow from the VRO without the crabs or ignition on.<O:p</O:p<O:p

Any advice on the venturies, carbs or VRO (or anything else) would be greatly appreciated. If anyone might suggest that I ditch the VRO in favour of a standard fuel pump, I would appreciate hearing what kind or model number I might use.

Thanks kindly.<O:p</O:p

[flatalon]

Sounds like the idle circuits are still plugged soakem again. Are you completly submerging the carbs?

[washind]

No I didn't completly submerge the carbs, but I sprayed the passages 10-15 times over three hours and then blew air in every hole I could find. I also ran a wire through the air jets on the top of the carbs.

I've re-started the engine now & while it runs much better it still exhibits the following:
- it idles now, but seems to be running on only one or two cylinders;
- a plug cut didn't reveal anything of note;
- when I apply power (from the butterfly linkage) it seems starved for gas;
- a shot of gas from the primer solenoid allows me to rev the engine fairly well and it seems like all cylinders are firing well and generating power.

Thanks kindly for your suggestion - I woudl certainly welcome any other tips you may have.

Dave

Ps. I sure am wet - water seems to come from every crevace on the lower unit & the tell-tail

[Forkin' Crazy]

Is it blowing any fuel/air mixture back out of the carb throats at idle?

[SportJ-US-1]

I have a couple of small sringes so I can check every passage in the carb to make sure they are clear before reassembly. What is a "fuel solenoid "? If you mean primer solenoid then the manual lever is to be off unless the electrics die and you need to manually start the engine. Pushing in the ignition key will activate the solenoid for however long you hold the key in. But make sure the lever is off or you are dumping raw fuel into the engine. What are the floats set at? To check if a cylinder is running, get a small squirt oil can and put some fuel (fuel and oil) from your tank in it. Now squirt some fuel in each carb in turn. If engine speeds up carb bad, if slows down, carb working.

[washind]

Yes, I meant primer solenoid. Thanks for the explanation and suggestion. I'll go observe, squirt and advise.


Dave

[washind]

I cleaned the carbs for the third time and found crud in the jet located at the bottom of the fuel bowl. It runs ok now on the muffs. Off to the lake for a shake-down.

Thanks to all for the help.

Dave