View Full Version : steering safety yoke *%$*&@#*($
:mad: Ok, so I go to fit my steering safety yoke from the plans that Alaska Streamin sent me, and I can't put this dumb thing on! The nuts on the motor won't come off the studs, the steering tiller arm is too freagin' close. So I go to remove the top mounts to lean the engine back to gain clearance, and that won't work either because it's nutted from inside the mid.
SO YOU GOTTA TAKE THIS WHOLE RAT-FINK MOTOR APART TO DO THIS JOB! PISS ON IT. IF THE STEERING BREAKS, I'LL SUE MERC FOR MY HASSELS. :mad:
AlaskaStreamin
05-21-2005, 11:14 AM
Easy there Hoss. Take a DEEP breath. It's a VERY simple procedure. Loosen up the powerhead nuts (you don't even need to take them off) Then you can lift the front of the power head up enough to get the front nuts off. I usually replace those nuts with the 1/2 nuts that are on the steering cable bar.
I was PISSED! So all I have to do is lift the power head an 1/8" eh? I figured with the drive shaft and linkages and such all hooked up that wouldn't be possible. You sure??
I do have a pair of leftover steering nuts, looks like the perfect spot for them to go if (when) I get the gumption to try this again.
As far as the plate goes, I've been able to modifiy it A LOT for extra strength. I don't see on my motor why the 'arms' needed to be so skinny, and what that cut-out near the tiller arm bolt is for. I've eliminated the cut-out and am in the process of making the 'arms' a lot wider. My 'build' plate is made out of 125 thousandths aircraft aluminum (imagine that :D ). Maybe my XR2 has more clearance than other motors? Also, your diagram (thanks again by the way!!) showed only one bend, and a second bend is needed up closer to the tiller arm bolt. Another reason I think my '86 XR2 is a little different.
So I've got a LOT of room to add metal to the width of this thing, which will allow me to make it out of the thinner .125". I'll take a bunch of pics of it for you and anyone else interested after I get it done. Thanks again Ron!
AlaskaStreamin
05-22-2005, 12:28 AM
You'll only be lifting / rocking so the front of the powerhead raises up about 3/16". That's about all it takes to get "yer nuts off". :o
I usually back the front nuts till they hit the arm and keep turning (after the other 8 are loose). They will actually lift the powerhead up while they're backing off. Once they are out of threads (motor quits lifting). I have a buddy push back on the air box which lifts the front studs that last 1/16" so they fall off.
Keep us posted.
Hey, what's up with the 'for sale' at the bottom of your signature?? Is that great big cat ready to go down the road? You have another project in mind??
Edit: Ahh, there it is in the For Sale over 20' section. No wonder I didn't know, I never go there :rolleyes: Good luck with the sale! Mabye that Virage is available up by you??? Make a great ski boat...... ;)
150aintenuff
05-22-2005, 11:26 AM
gas prices and ron wants $$$$ for a new project.... 300PM on a searay:p
sosmerc
05-22-2005, 11:32 AM
Let's see, 34 pitch prop at 3000 rpm.....better fuel economy and performance than a 135 at WOT with a 19 pitch!!!
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