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jpeaston
05-02-2005, 11:10 AM
I tore apart my 1973 Wreidt jet two years ago and am just getting it back together, I use to have log exhaust and have traded for a pair of water injected bassett headers, please give me the best way to plumb it. I don't need links to plumbing charts, just some tips from experience, please specify hose size, location of ball valves etc.
thanks for the help guys.

Stv Euro
05-08-2005, 12:29 PM
Yes I will be watching your thread. I am about to do the same thing. Out with the logs and in with the new headers.

jpeaston
05-09-2005, 09:21 AM
right now i have 5/8 from pump to a tee to both sides of inlet on block, with no ball valve. from outlet on intake, i have 5/8 from one of the outlet going straight to spill, and the other 5/8 to a tee with each t going to one of the headers via 3/8 hose. looked at one of my buddies and that was how his was plumbed. any tips? or suggestions? do i need a ball valve?

superdave013
05-10-2005, 08:25 AM
There are a lot of different ways to do it. This guy gets a little freaky but it's a good example. Well, it's a little more complex as it shows the Rex T stat. But if you don't use that it's not that big of a deal. And using one dump line is ok too. But if you do use just one use a -10 so you can open the valve to lower block pressure if needed.
One thing to remember when it comes to water to headers. To much water to them will cause it to get up in the heads. Water in the oil if bad enough but that cold water on the red hot exhaust valves is a very bad thing.

http://www.classicboatbeachbash.com/CoolingPlumbing.htm

From Bassetts site
http://www.bassettracing.com/newpage7.htm#Jet%20Water%20Injected%20Installation

A great way to control the water to the headers. There also is a jet boat forum in this site. I would say this is the best source for jet info on the net right now.

http://www.banderlog.com/products/waterInjectionValve/waterInjection.html


Parts source
www.sweetperformance.com

Have fun!

osr1
06-10-2007, 09:31 PM
The bassett site seems to be the simplist but seems to lack info. Are they talking about a regular T fitting, or actually some type of valve? Sorry, old thread but I tried to search the answer to my question. Are they saying that water pressure will cause the headers to only get water at a certain RPM due to increased pressure of the jet? Hope I;m not being too confusing (Jacuzzi YJ and BBF)

Z FANTASYJETMAN
06-12-2007, 02:03 PM
The bassett site seems to be the simplist but seems to lack info. Are they talking about a regular T fitting, or actually some type of valve? Sorry, old thread but I tried to search the answer to my question. Are they saying that water pressure will cause the headers to only get water at a certain RPM due to increased pressure of the jet? Hope I;m not being too confusing (Jacuzzi YJ and BBF)
what u have is fine, but at the dump line u need a gate valve and between the intake and headers u need a basset t valve (which is a t fitting with a ball valve in it)u adj the gate to allow water in the header at 2000 rpm,s and above ONLY!!!!!!!!!!none at idle or to 2000 r,s ,u DON,T want water reverting back into the engine!!!!! my gate is at almost full dump ,about 75% open hope this helps ,later:cool:

TroyManic
05-27-2011, 08:45 AM
It would be awesome if you could show me a pic of what you finally ended up with! I am on a similar project actually! :)

Last Mohican
05-27-2011, 09:12 PM
It would be awesome if you could show me a pic of what you finally ended up with! I am on a similar project actually! :)

You do realize this thread is 4 years old right? I recently made the switch on my Rebel from Logs to headers. i plumbed it exactly as the Bassett site outlines and it works great for me.

From http://bassettracing.com/faq1.htm (item number 4)

* Install stainless steel lines to headers.
* Install headers on engine.
* Make sure there is no thermostat or any other type of water temperature control in the housing.
* Install "T" stainless steel control valve in one of the two lines in the thermostat housing. Connect the "T" end to the headers. The lines of the headers should be approximately 2 feet long.
* The other line from your thermostat housing is the by-pass line. Run it overboard with a 1/2" brass gate valve (plumbing type).
* The gate valve is needed to regulate the amount of water you discharge. It also regulates what RPM the water is injected into the headers. Example: gate valve is open and water comes in at 3000 RPMs. In order to make the water come in at 1800 RPMs, close the gate valve approximately 1/3.

mikemanic
06-06-2011, 04:36 AM
* The other line from your thermostat housing is the by-pass line. Run it overboard with a 1/2" brass gate valve (plumbing type).


I just cannot seem to find the 1/2 gate valve, will it work if I use a bigger pipe? Dont know what is wrong, I cannot seem to find the pipe anywhere in my area.


(http://www.altusfasciasandsoffits.co.uk)

Last Mohican
06-06-2011, 08:14 AM
I got mine at Lowe's. Any home improvement store or plumbing supply should have one.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_21502-34146-T300+1/2_0__?productId=3353886&Ntt=1%2F2%22+gate+valve&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3D1%252F2%2522%2Bgate%2Bvalve&facetInfo=

RLP
06-06-2011, 07:30 PM
Ilike to come out water neck with 2 lines,one over board no valve.
The other come out with a ball valve inline to the bassett T valve to headers...now ya have control on water PSI to the bassett valve.
Also i like the overboard side to be a large line # 10 AN.

mikefills
06-09-2011, 09:06 AM
I got mine at Lowe's. Any home improvement store or plumbing supply should have one.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_21502-34146-T300+1/2_0__?productId=3353886&Ntt=1%2F2%22+gate+valve&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3D1%252F2%2522%2Bgate%2Bvalve&facetInfo=


Thanks for the link, i was searching for it all over the WWW.

waterslinger
06-13-2011, 11:05 AM
http://www.performancejet.com/ttjetboatenginecooling.html

This is the best info i ever seen.

ak49er
06-20-2011, 09:00 PM
"waterslinger said:
http://www.performancejet.com/ttjetb...necooling.html (http://www.performancejet.com/ttjetboatenginecooling.html)

This is the best info i ever seen."

The above is what I went with, only I modified my existing aluminum Thermostat housing by milling out the dividing plate, and drilled two 1/8" holes in the top plate of the Stainless Steel Thermostat. I had to do this as I run an Offenhouser Tunnel Ram, and there is no room for a raised 4-Port Thermostat housing.

This is the best way as you get a regulated block pressure (12-20lbs.), full block volume, regulated temperature and no thermostat lift from pressure spikes caused by steam or air-over-water pressure from pump volume
spikes.

All of this is important as you switch over from logs to headers, as most engine failures come at this time, due to the plumbing configuration being left in the high volume, unregulated pressure configuration commonly used with logs, to the regulated volume, regulated pressure necessary for header use.

After the above, then you get to fine tune. A Banderlog device is nice but you can get away with a Hardin Marine Aluminum Hand Valve, with four postions. If they dont' get your headers close with the four positions, then go up or down an orifice size.