Epoxy on front half

[bullet19]

Hey

I was just giving a running 2.4l Merc, its real wore out, but it'l hone right out. The front half worries me it is not original, and it has had a rod bolt shoved ALMOST thru it (cracked to outside) the gouge was filled with epoxy and didnt seem to be hurtin anything. Is this ok???? I know welding is best, and I also knowthis is not a high stress area
Thanks
Bryan :rolleyes:

[sosmerc]

Marinetex might be better?

[bullet19]

probably is Marine-Tex or JB weld....its been on there for about a year for the previous owner..maybe longer.Motor came that way to me. No sense chagin it if its OK :rolleyes:
Bryan
ps thanks for the fast response

[sosmerc]

Many on the site here say they use different front halfs all the time. I know it can be done, but I'd be careful. Inspect the area that the seal rings ride on...they can wear differently and cause serious "mismatch" problems and bind the crank. When you put it back together, be sure to install the crank without rods and pistons and see how it feels after you properly torque the fronthalf. It should spin freely bolted in, just as it does when you set it in the block. Make sure the end cap mating surfaces match up perfectly at both ends.

[bullet19]

The engine seems to be OK........ has been running for some time like that. I have taken it apart and all seems well with the crank in the block and the cover on. I just dont want the epoxy to give me any trouble if/when I need touse yhis engine
Thanks
Bryan

[Rusrog]

As long as the motor spins over freely it should be OK. Obviously remove the locating dowel pins if the case halves are mis matched.

As far as epoxy, Jay Smith used some stuff when I was there... Something Kote???? Harder than a... well... pretty darn hard and with good adhesion qualities. I keep meaning to get him to get me some of the stuff but that's just some more stuff I need to get done.
The cracked area may need to be ground a little but if it's not leaking I would probably not mess with it. Just keep an eye on it or go have it professionally welded up and not hae to worrk about it at all.

Russ Rogers
Ft Worth TX

[T-REX]

If it's been run'in wit that front, U are OK...I have only had a couple fronts that didn't match, and when tha front wuz tightened, tha crank would not turn, and wuz even visably mismatched...if tha epoxy iz still stuck, and not leek'in, leeve it alone....If ya want a good epoxy to replace it, they make a epoxy stick called "Pig Putty"...It iz easy to use, and git's hard enuff to drill and tap, and mine haz been cooked more times than I kan tell ya, and it still iz there!!!...I guess bottom line iz, if it's been runn'in, and runn'in for a while, don't worry about it...rering it if ya want, check tha pistons for cracks, and put it back together...REX

[NPK2003]

:confused: How the heck does a swamp dwelling coonass like you know about a sophisticated, industrial products like Pig Putty? Raptor must of heard about it in his travels to the Midwest and told ya about the stuff. It's tuff stuff all right. Been using it on machine tools for a long time. Chips and coolant don't hurt it at all. Just try and remove it sometime and you'll find out how tuff it is.

[gfinch]

O.K. I'll bite!
Who sells this PIG PUTTY? I've used J.B. Weld with good results in the past but don't know if it would be good inside with fuel all the time.
Gary

[Jay Smith]

I found some epoxy at a car machine shop that they build alot of Pro Stock Car heads and I have used it for 10 years without a failure , its called Kop Kote by Splash Zone ( 2 part epoxy but HELL to work with , thick ) 1 thing it doesn't like is alky,,,, The rest of the racing gasolines are fine......... They only sell in gals and its a bit pricey$150.00 for the two gallon pails but I wouldn't use anything else.........

Good luck,

[Xlrator]

Check this stuff called Devcon out. We use it at work. Totally gas-proof, just like JB Weld.

http://www.devcon.com/devconfamilyproduct.cfm?familyid=101

[Superdave]

I've used Devcon exclusively for close to 30 years. I first used it when I was amachinist and was VERY suprised at how hard it cures and how well it adheres. I've glued on plain nosecones and complete LWP units with it and have NEVER had it fail. Just hope you don't try to remove a cone!! LOL :eek: It ain't gonna happen. :) There are a few different kinds for aluminum, not to mention ALL the products. We've repaired motor mounts and gear reducer mounts with NO problems. You can drill, tap, machine, but can honestly say i haven't tried to WELD it. :eek:
Dave