How do I take my inline distributor apart?

[zmoz]

I'll be getting my new inline powerhead Friday, and I need to put in the distributor from my old motor. I took it off today, and when I turn the distributor by hand, it catches in one spot on every turn. How do I take this apart to look at/replace the bearings? My repair manual is VERY unclear about how to do this, and the pictures it shows are for a completely different distributor...:rolleyes:


(And interestingly enough, for those of you that know about my little oil problem last year, my motor apparently died because the distributor seized up, not because I forgot the oil. Yes, god hates me.)

[Raceman]

I thought you ran a compression test on that engine after the oil deal. Inline distributors can have bearing problems after they've had water in em. If your engine died because of distributor seizing as you suspect you'd have seen a timing belt either broken or with the cogs sheered off. (I've heard of one sheering the cogs, but the only ones I've had trouble with broke the belt instead.)

The rotor comes out in one piece. It doesn't pop off the shaft like some automotove types. I don't think I could talk you through it without one in my hand since I haven't been inside one in probably 20 plus years, but I'll bet Grigg'll help.

[Jeff_G]

The teardown is pretty much straight forward. You will need all new bearings. If the rotor shaft is galled you will have to replace it. You need a deep socket. When removing the nut hold the rotor in your hand wrapped in a rag. Do not put it in a vice. To remove the upper bearing gently pry with 2 very small screwdrivers in the 1/4" hole.
Either draw or photograph as you take each part apart and be very careful about re-assembly. When putting the pulley back on use some blue loctite and do not over tighten the small screw.
Be careful when pulling the rotor and shaft assembly that you do not damage the rotor disk and mark it so it goes on the same way. It can not be reversed. Also take care not to damage the trigger when pulling the shaft. After assembly lube properly.

[zmoz]

Someone sent me some scans out of a good mercury manual...hopefully I can get this done today. Anybody have the part numbers for the bearings I'll need?

And yes, Raceman, it did tear up the timing belt. I never did a compression test, but after taking the engine apart I can tell you it definately would have ran. Only 1 piston was seriously gouged...they rest were just lightly scuffed. 1 cylinder actually still looks new.

[zmoz]

Alright, I've got it mostly apart, but I can't seem to get the get the upper bearing out. I'm prying on it through the holes like the manual says, bit it isn't moving, and I'm afraid I'm going to bend something. Why is it not coming out? Should I spray some WD-40 or something on it?

[Jeff_G]

Yes you can use a penetrating oil. Keep at it, it will come probably just a little stuck, rust. Patience, will reward you.

[zmoz]

Do I need to worry about breaking anything, when prying through the hole? I can pry harder, but I don't want to bend anything...

[zmoz]

Ok...I finally got it off. I've been told I can find a new bearing at an auto parts store...what exactly am I looking for? Mercury wants $35 for a new bearing.:rolleyes:

[zmoz]

Ok, everything is apart but the lower bearing. That's obviously my problem...there's little chunks of it everywhere. How am I supposed to get it out? The manual says "Use a drift punch that will slide fit into the inner race of the bearing. Tap bearing out of housing." Do I really need a "drift punch"? Can I just use a screwdriver? Which direction do I tap it out?

[crazy horse]

The best way to locate a bearing is to get the numbers that will be on the edge of the bearing . I don't know if you have a bearing company anyplace close to you. Look in the phone book or go online a see if there one over your way. Invetech doesn't list a outlet for your area but someone sells bearing in your area if you can find someone just take the bearing in to them and they will be able to help you. If you can't find anyone out there , Post the numbers that should be on the bearing and I can tell you what it is. It will most likely be a Fafnir or a Torrington #. Don't let some auto part place sell you some cheap imported bearing, When it comes to bearings it pays to buy the best;) . I almost forgot to tell you that a bearing from a bearing co. will be alot cheaper that one from Merc . I would guess around 10 bucks or less for the size thats used in the housing.

[crazy horse]

I had a old housing setting around so I pulled it apart and the bearing is a Fafnir. The number is S5KDD the bearing is a S5K and the DD is for shields on both sides. Thats a pretty common bearing , I don't think Merc changed the size of the housings over the years but you should double check to see if that no. matches your bearing no. It will be found stamped into the bearing shield.

[zmoz]

Still haven't got the lower bearing out, but I found the part number for it last night. The local merc dealer only wants $13 for it. The top bearing is $35, but I don't think I need that one.

[zmoz]

Alright, I finally got the damn thing apart. Should I pack the bearings with grease before putting everything back together? Or will they be fine if I just pump some grease in the grease fitting?

[Superdave]

the right bearings they are sealed and you can't grease them. The zerk fitting is for greasing the housing so it rotates smoothly.

[zmoz]

Originally posted by Superdave
the right bearings they are sealed and you can't grease them. The zerk fitting is for greasing the housing so it rotates smoothly.

Neither of the ones that were in there are sealed.

[CMF]

Originally posted by zmoz
...The top bearing is $35, but I don't think I need that one.

Why not go ahead and replace it since you have it apart? Doesn't make sense to me. 35 bucks is cheap insurance -vs- it siezing up on you later. Do it right the first time man.

PS...put some approved oil in your lower, not car stuff.

Good luck

[CrayzKirk]

I believe there are two grease fittings on the distributor. One is for the advance collar and the other is for the distributor shaft and bearings. Grease it up at the end of each season with Multipurpose lube. I usually do mine when I change the lower unit lube after the Storage Seal. Change the water pump impeller at the beginning of the season and run a can of Powertune every couple of seasons to keep it clean.

You'll be back on the water in no time... Replace both bearings while you have it apart.

Kirk S.

P.S. What happened to summer this year? It is under 70* in the middle of August in the midwest. How can I ski in this? Were are those high 80s and low 90s? Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr....

[crazy horse]

Both grease fittings are for the sleaves, Not for the bearings. The correct bearings for the housing have shields on both sides . That's why the bearing # end in DD . I've never seen one that used unshielded bearings.