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View Full Version : Buffing problems- it aint getting poliished?



Techno
07-17-2004, 09:28 AM
Had no probs in the past and now the parts just won't buff like they should. Took off the old wheel and put on a new one, no change.
Changed speeds from too high, medium, too slow. It works on too slow but the part still gets coated with the compound wax and doesn't do much. All these parts are full of sharp edges and wondering if thats what the prob is? Gauge bezels are finned and the fuel plate has many lighting holes in it that have to be crossed.

10" siskal wheel with pink compound for the roughing stage. Did the fuel system plate and did get somewhere but it isn't taking the tiny ridge from the holes. Lots and lots of lighting holes. In the past buffing ridges like this took it right down. Now this is turning into a chore. I buffed the entire peice and washed it off. Almost no change. Thats when I changed the wheel and speed to low and did get somewhere but this is taking far too long. Lots of items and have to go through the stages.
The wheel is turning black very quickly and using a rake does little. If I constantly apply compound it does work but we're talking like a dollar bill size or less!

Any Ideas. Would like to paint this stuff today- tomarrow.
5 gauge bezels, battery hold down stuff, fuel system plate, pin cleats, bow lights shifter plate-levers-handles, helm bezel, glove box door, fuel tank fitting & God knows what else is in the box.:confused:

pyro
07-17-2004, 12:09 PM
I work on band instruments. I use a "green" compound made by Matchless for silver and nickel parts. It is a very low wax compound, you have to apply it often, and it kicks up a lot of dust. It doesn't build up on softer metals though. I use it as a finishing stage for other metals as well. It is so fine and dry, that I can buff solder joints without it sticking to the lead & tin. all the other compounds build up wax on a surface like this.

I get mine from allied Supply, I think they're in MN or WI.

-Chad

Techno
07-17-2004, 01:30 PM
Probably not the same but my 2nd compound is green. Different wheel. I think I'll skip the 1st wheel and see what the 2nd does.

Jason J.
07-21-2004, 01:34 PM
Try going from sisal with dark gray cutting rouge to a
loose flannel with pink no scratch. Works for me when polishing damascus before bluing and produces a mirror finish.

Jason J.

www.jacksknives.com

ADB
05-02-2005, 09:20 AM
I spend alot of time polishing metal as part of my work.

If you need good cutting use an emery rouge on a sisal wheel, it cits fast. then move to a spiral sewn cotton.
Whats important is that you progress in proper increments, and make sure you cross the grain of the previous grit.
Does any of this make sence.
Also,start at the top that way you are pushing the rouge down the piece as you go.

pyro
05-02-2005, 09:26 AM
Old thread from July of last year. Be sure to check the dates before you reply.

I have not seen Techno on the boards for a long time. Where did he go?

ADB
05-02-2005, 09:32 AM
You are right, i didnt check the date, im on some other forums and old posts get pushed away pretty fast based on the volume of traffic and postings.

RJSHADOW8021
07-12-2005, 08:44 AM
techno,tell me what you need to polish and i will tell you the right stuff and steps you need to take. i have polished everything that you can imagine...plastics alluminum,stainless paint or whatever
if i can help you out i will do what i can... :cool:

pyro
07-12-2005, 10:17 AM
Techno has been AWOL for a while. His last post in this thread was from almost a YEAR ago. Check the dates before you reply, there's a lot of old, retired threads archived here. :D

-Chad

benski
07-29-2008, 05:09 PM
Just like a lot of old, retired racers! But we're still kickin'!