New Feature: Wiring and Electrical Rigging

[Scream And Fly]

New Feature: Wiring and Electrical Rigging

Click Here to read the article. (http://www.screamandfly.com/home/hull_tech/wiring_6.6.2004/wiring_1.htm)

Enjoy!
Greg

[wing nut]

looks really clean, but im curious why no soider (spelling?)??

scortt

[Scream And Fly]

Originally posted by wing nut
looks really clean, but im curious why no soider (spelling?)??

Because a good crimp is just as good as solderig, and using a soldering iron in really confined places on some jobs is not always practical (or safe).

Greg

[wing nut]

good point greg! i didnt mean to sound like an ass i was just curious. the wiring looks awsome though:)

scott

[Scream And Fly]

You didn't sound like an ass Scott :)

Greg

[Trikki1010]

Damn,

Looks like I could use a few lessons in wiring:eek: :D

[Techno]

Actually your not supposed to use soldered connections on a boat. No solder for a mechanical bond- so the crimp connectors.
Solder also hardens the flexible wire.

I was kind of disapointed. You barely touched on gauge sizes. Of which I did use.:p Disapointed because I've been waiting for this article.

I did notice 1 "not there", you mention supporting wires but don't mention the spacing. What I read it's every 18", which is funny considering the cardboard tube wire runners installed in boats.

Also I recomend a heat gun rather than a torch if possible.

One thing I thought of while shopping was the adhesive shrink tubing. Considered it but what am I using tin coated stuff for if sealing out corrosion is an issue? Since I was using heat shrink tube figured didn't need the plastic coated terminals. The ones I got aren't split and much easier to use-pure chance. Got the ratcheting crimper too which being expensive is a luxery- was worth it.:p

I'm stumped on the buss bar wiring. Not sure what size to run from back to front? Any suggestions? Fairly short run about 12'. Gauges are low power but ignition is hooked to it. So are the fuel pump relays and everything else thats switched.

BTW my wiring looks like crap! Not for looking at though. The ratcheting clamps are what makes it looks messy. Wires running all over but easy to work on.

[Superdave]

Crimp & shrink terminals. This is one supplier, you can probably get them closer to home. They work great.
http://www.fastenerhut.com/catalog/default.php?cPath=507030000&osCsid=03ddab37230a2ecc20202e1217ab6f0e
And this stuff helps a lot.
http://www.fastenerhut.com/catalog/default.php?cPath=507090000&osCsid=03ddab37230a2ecc20202e1217ab6f0e

[Talon2.5]

i just did some wire repairs on the wifes camaro and used those crimps superdave suggested, was nice being able to heat and shrink the ends, got 'em at wal-mart

[Trae]

Very nice work!! Looks very similar to the work done by Glenn Childers at Pearland Marine.


Trae:D

[Reese]

copper wire...

does it really matter if it's tinned or not...I guess if you had an offshore boat or something it would be a good idea, but don't you think it's a little overkill for trailer queens???

[Scream And Fly]

Reese,

Actually, it does matter. High humidity and moisture will corrode copper wire.

Greg:)

[Techno]

I can see your point but car wiring rots too. I've seen green stuff growing up my car wiring. Lost the battery ground during the winter- that was fun. Still connected to the engine but the starter wouldn't crank only click.(34 years old)
This isn't a salt thing either. My 68 Vette burned the starter wiring once and it was only 18 years old at the time. Green fungus in the wiring. Blew the fusible link.

Besides being tin coated marine wiring is made of finer wires bundled into the gauge. This means the marine gauge is conductively larger than regular wire. You can look it up but a 12 ga marine wire is like a 10 ga SAE wire. A circular mils thing.
This makes it more flexible too- vibration. The insulation is also specced for boating.

If your boats on a trailer outside its getting wet, in the garage maybe not? But boats are wettish things.

[Wan2BFast]

I got some wiring tips seeing this is a part of what I do. as far as wire size it is determined buy what you will be running fuel pump will need a heaver lead than a dash light assuming that the runs are the same length and yes tinned wire is best for boat application but it to can sulfate (green stuff you see on a battery) before you crimp apply some no ox or wheel bearing grease (just a light coat) crimp on you connector then heat shrink you should also put a light coat on you buss bar as well. When running you wires try to think of the future and any need you may have it will be easier to run them now also try to eliminate those scotch locks that are so popular make a new run to your bus bar it will save you headaches later and try to use the rule of thumb on bend radius’s the bend should be no more that 7 times the diameter of the cable you are using.

[Techno]

Whats a scotch lock?

[Wan2BFast]

wire connectors that fit over the wire then push through the casing to make contact with the conductor