Greg, Camera Settings???

[Ziemer]

This question is mostly for Greg, because all of the pics he posts seem to be really clear, however any additional input would be appreciated.

Greg, with your Nikon camera, do you have it mostly set on a preset setting (i.e auto, athletic, landscape, etc.)or do you adjust the manual settings to get the exceptionally clear action shots?

I have an Olympus C700 that has the ability to adjust setting manually, but I'm not real sure on where to begin. I usually set it on the action setting, but the shots never seem to be as clear as I would like them to be.

This is probably much more of a difficult question than I'm thinking, but I thought I would throw it out there.

Example: http://forums.screamandfly.com/Gallery/showphoto.php/photo/3133/size/big/password/0/sort/1/cat/3047

(hopefully that will link to the picture)

Thanks.

[platypus]

Can anyone help? I took the pictures at 1280X960 image size and when I downloaded them to my computer I changed the size to 640X480 and trying to post some pics for the Rondak Romp and it is saying the file size is too big.

Anyhelp would be appreciated it.

Serena

[Checkmate-Chris]

Try compressing the pic a bit platypus.

You can leave it the same dimensions but just reduce the file size of the pic a bit. Photoshop and most programs like it have settings to slightly reduce the file size without too much degradation of the picture quality. :)

[Spd-Kilz]

When you go to resave the file, do not do File Save. Do File Save As and rename it as something else. It will now be small enough. This will work I have gone through it myself. Chris:)

[Scream And Fly]

Generally, I never use "scene settings" for photos. Those types of presets will alter the white balance and saturation settings - something I'm not a fan of.

Shooting a photo from one moving boat to another is VERY tough - especially at the speeds we were moving at! It's almost impossible to stready the camera, so I just used burst mode and fired off as many as I could. In a rough situation like that, that's the way to go.

For general still images, I'll usually use auto, but if it's a detailed image or a macro shot, I'll use manual controls (manual focus, etc.). My cameras also store custom settings, so I can keep auto focus, and retain manual control on shutter speed, etc. It depends on the effect I'm looking for. The single greatest mistake people make when shooting images is they can't keep the camera still. Believe it or not, it actually takes practice to steady the camera properly. Also, when pressing the shutter release, do it gently - you don't want to shake the camera.

A tripod is ideal in lower light situations when you'll want to slow the shutter down. I like using slower shutter speeds rather than relying on a flash, which can create a lot of "hot spots" in a low-light situation. Noise reduction is also a good feature to have on a digital camera.

For action shots, I'll usually lock the focus of the camera on an object that is near the subject being photograped - or - in the case of fast boats, I'll use the first few passes to focus the camera, then lock the focus for when I'm ready to take the photos.

I'm not sure exactly what features that camera has, but taking advatange of manual controls is the key to great images. It takes a lot of practice. Also, practice holding the camera steady - you'll be surprised how much better your images will come out when you're concious of that.

Finally, I practiced my technique by photographing birds, believe it or not. Give it a try!


Images posted here cannot be larger than 115 KB in size. Just resave using more JPEG compression. 640 x 480 is fine for dimensions :)

Greg

[platypus]

I used the advice of the file save as and it worked. Thanks a lot for everyone's help!


Art

[Techno]

The manual or semi-automatic functions on a camera are-
Exposure- Each shutter speed is half the one before. Each aperture number is half the one before. Going from 1/60 second to 1/120 means 1/2 the light.
Dong the same with aperture at the same time is 1/4 of the light.

Shutter speed. The higher this is the more it will freeze action. A moderate shutter speed and panning the camera with the object will blur back ground but not the object. Higher speeds freeze both back ground and object (given normal relative speeds). Panning with the object is usually better than clicking as it passes, but that is another look. Object blurred, background in focus.
Below 1/60 second is considered too low for handheld use-shaky- blurry but can be done.


Apature. This is a depth of field control. By using higher numbers your depth of focus is increased, mostly useful for closer objects that are within the infinity setting of focus. Like taking a picture at the bow and wanting the stern in focus too.
This reduces light by reducing the opening- apature and means a lower shutter speed is needed. SLRs have a gauge on the focus ring for the depth of field, digitals don't so you have to guess.
Focused at 8' increasing the aperture number gives you an increased depth of from 2' to now 16'. This 16' range can be used from 0-16' or 8-22' or anything like that.
Infinity focus depending on camera starts at about 30'-80' Anything that far away and further doesn't need it.

Focus. If automatic may read on something other than the object. Can be locked usually or done manually. Used in conjuction with aperture for tough picures. This focus is for closer items. Far items are all in focus, infinity or the sideways 8 symbol.

Film speed. Either in DIN or ASA both digital and film cameras use it. Faster film speed means lower light but not as good resolution.
This resets the exposure meter in the camera.

Exposure compensating or other such name. + or - with a number. This fools the camera into taking a picture with more or less exposure. Either manual or auto. You would decrees or - it if the sun is someones eyes, which is the worst way to take a picture of a person. Increase or + it with the sun behind them.
The reason why is the exposure meter is reading what you don't want a picture of, the sky or background. This compensates it like a manual focus does by you deciding. Just like locking auto focus a reading can be taken of shadow area and this info used on the real picture.

Flash. These have an extremely short range considering outdoor shots. About 30' depending. Football stadiums with flashes going off aren't doing a thing, don't have the range.
Anway the flash speed is around 10X -30X or more of a shutter speed so can freeze moving stuff. Some cameras have delayed flash with the shutter to blur the object at the beginning or end depending on choice. May give just a bit more light for more aperture or shutter speed. Gives an unnatural or unflattering look- shouldn't be used unless needed. Gives highlight glitters to metalic objects. Can "fill" a particular picture with light-IE fill in shadowed spots without using exposure compensation.

Choose as a large an aperture number while compromising on as fast a shutter speed as possible.
More distance >less aperture is needed.
Faster relative objects > faster shutter speeds. Neither needs to be taken to an extreme -usually.
A boat taken from a boat and wanting foggy water for speed look. Slower shutter speed with the camera moving with the boat. Boat is frozen water is not.

Aperture priority auto. Mostly for indoor shots with a flash. Outdoor of closer stuff.
Set the aperature to about what you want the depth of focus to be, indoors is more useful than outdoors but the light is also opposite the need.
Shutter speed may be too low since its set by the camera.

Shutter priority auto. This is the one for outdoor shots of moving stuff.
Set the shutter to the highest speed or the highest that seems to work. Set at fastest speed your aperture is going to be low. Set midrange the camera will have more lattitude to set it.

Exposure sensing field. Can usually be selected. Wide field will average the whole picture. Spot metering only reads that spot. A persons face is measured rather than the back ground too. This can be scanned about and used to decide on a decent exposure.
Or what comensation is needed.

Bracketing. Either done by 'motor' drive or manually. You take several pictues but at minus, neutral and positive exposures to ensure you get one good picture. The bracketing can be all positive or all negative.

Time exposure. Usually measured in seconds but not always. A tripod is needed but setting the camera down and using the timer button works too, you lose the abitity to aim it though.
Non moving objects will come out clear while those that are moving are translucent to invisible.
A bay at night- idling boats will show light streaks with parts of them visible. Planing boats will be only long streaks of light. Docked boats will be visible with maybe ghosty people.

Light. This is the all important item. On cloudy days your limited on shutter speed and aperture. On sunny days a white boat may have too much light and will skew the exposure.
All cameras are limited by contrast range. A white cat against a coal pile. Either you get the white cat or the coal pile but not both. Again with the exposure comensation adjustment.

Zoom
It compresses distance. Not only a magnification thing. Wide angle is un-flattering while higher than normal zoom is flattering. wide angle distorts images by uncompressing distance. fisheye look. Normal is around 60mm = human eye. By using the zoom and acually moving the YOU the look of the picture can be changed. A long boat can be made to look short, a short boat made to look long.

2 kinds. Optical zoom is a real magnification. Image magnification is done without quality degradation.
digital zoom is pretty much a waste of function and camera. Exactly the same "zoom" can be done on the computer by cropping, this is what digital zoom is- a cropping of the picture before it is taken. This is like looking at a magazine picture very close so you can see the ink dots. Optical zoom is like looking at the real picture but 100' closer.

Glamour photography.
Always have them stand with their heels off the ground even if wearing high heels. ( a leg thing)
Lighting should come from a sideish direction not front or back(topographical thing). Theres more tricks but too long now:p