1969 Johnson 115 Question

[Franky_Toolbox]

I have a 1969 Johnson 115. It has some issues that I need help with. It runs for maybe 15 - 20 mins and when it seems to get hot it won't restart. It has been suggested to me that it might be a problem with the wiring. I also have noticed that when you put the battery leads on the battery it draws some current(sparkes when you put the leads on the battery). Does this sound like a wiring issue and does anyone have a copy of the wiring diagram for this engine that could be sent to me? I've had it into repair shops in the past but we can't seem to shake this issue so it's time to take it on myself.

[racer]

Wont restart or crank? if its restart your power pack may be breaking down or the clipper circuit may be bad. That system should release one spark when hooking up the battery.

[tunnelboat17]

:confused: That motor had some electrical issues but it was powerhouse when running right- it used one coil that would develop cracks in the plastic outside coating from exp+contraction as it heated up while running + would give up after it was pushed for period of time. The open winding would contract as it was left to cool down and start back up like nothings wrong!!! Racer's also suggested a good place to look at as those early battery C.D. amplifier/power packs were known to be cranky as a result of the clipper-AKA-Monkeys Nuts not doin their job........Strong motor at the time though- Good Luck!!:cool:

[racer]

Clipper is not the monkey nuts it is the small part mounted under the right side of the terminal strip, it protects the pack from power surges but can sometimes reduce the voltage to the box under the 12 it needs to run, the nuts are part of the charge circuit which can fall below 12 thus creating a similar problem.

[zookimota]

If I remember right, there is also a "nuts" capacitor related to the electric shift part of that, that holds a charge to keep the lower unit in neutral when the key is initially turned off so the lower won't engage forward gear immediately. It's usually located somewhere near the shift control, maybe even inside the control box. I think the shift solenoids are:forward gear no power to either solenoid, neutral one solenoid is powered, and reverse, both are powered. That may be the spark he is seeing.
It's a darn good idea to have the key turned off anytime you connect or disconnect the battery cables, cause that is known to blow that style ignition box with only one spark.

[EMDSAPMGR]

You can get the original service manual from the orignal printer of OMC manuals:

Ken Cook Company
9929 W Silver Spring Dr
Milwaukee, WI 53225-3246
Phone: (414) 466-6060

The service manual will have all the cooling and wiring schematics. You can order over the phone. Probably about $35 plus shipping. You might also want to ask for a parts catalog, a small pamphlet about 15 pages.

[Bill Gohr]

it starts cold runs for a while you shut it off and it won't restart......it could be the pack or the clipper. Could be alot of other things. Those things would burn the cap where the coils wire feeds the rotor. Then it just arcs the spark to the flywheel. Also, make sure your batter, charging system, and starter are in good shape. Remember, the battery is part of the ignition system. If the engine starts, (and this was a common problem) runs for a little while, you shut it off and it won't restart. The engine while running takes the battery down, you go to start it and the starter pulls the battery down lower. If that pack does not get 10 volts at cranking it will not light the pack. This was commonly checked by seeing no spark and then pulling the plugs and having spark. The starter was taking all the voltage away from the pack. There is a service bulletin telling you to put a diode between the starter wire and the pack input.

[Karl817]

I too have one of these and am interested in reading about any and all info. I haven't had mine out on the water yet but another 2 or 3 weeks and I'll be there.
My current problem is the water pump, I took the LU off to trade out the impeller with a new one, and snapped off one of the water pump housing bolts. I took the LU to work and the guys drilled and tapped that out. That was 6 months ago. Now I don't remember how to "set" the new impeller into the housing - can probably noodle thru that. Now I gotta find new "tubes" to link the water lines up inside the mid section. Got a line on parts?
Good luck getting going there, I'm a few weeks behind ya.