Connecting rod ?

[Superdave]

How are the 5250 rods? They are big rods, but have two small holes where the cap fits. Bought them as crankcase stuffers for a 2.4 BP that will only turn about 7500. Also, what SRP bolts do I need for these?
Dave

[Jay Smith]

Those rods will work fine Dave , SPS rod bolt number you need is :

10-91995 ( Merc part # )

[outboards4life]

How many Rpms can those Rods withstand safely? I have a set that i'm going to put in a 2.4.
Thanks
Travis

[Jay Smith]

Travis,

The 50 series rod when properly preped ( cast flashing removed and polished to chrome to prevent cracking and balanced ), installed with new SPS rod bolts are good for 10,000+ with no problem !

We have customers running them in Drag and lake race motors with no problems and come in the all the newer Drag motors from the factory, they are a bit heavy for my liking though ( 490 ish grams in stock trim when the smaller 41 series Drag and Hi Per rod is a trim 340 grams both can be cut down the 50's trimmed to 390 ish and the 41's to 320 ish )

Some get hung up on the stuffing ability of the larger in bulk 50 series rod vs the smaller in size 41 series rod but forget that the slot and area they are stuffing with this bulk is creating increased crankcase compression but blocking the path of the oncoming e fuel vapors ability to gaine access to it real destination this being the port. My rod of choice is the 41 series for all out advantage and have been pleased with thier longevity in the all out big HP and compression motors we have built! But if I had a nice of 50's and on a budget I'd run em in a second!

Just my thoughts !

Good luck,

[outboards4life]

Thanks Jay, budget is definitely what I am on. I'm trying to build the cheapest drag motor I can find. Not that i'm not looking for quality stuff. but so far I have everything I need for a rotating assembly minus 2 pistons. including carbs and a mid for 43 bucks. Who's the cheap one now.
:D :D :D
Travis

[Superdave]

Found 'em for $8.00 ea. Is that a good price?

[Jay Smith]

You bet Dave and I would like a set or two for stock !LOL.........Normally they are $12.00 ish ea........

[baddjonny]

I noticed that some have the two holes where the cap is cracked at and others don't have the holes. The reason I'm bringing this up is a friend bought a BP powerhead this spring from a local guy and the motor had 5 of the rods without the hole in them and one with holes in it .when he pulled the motor apart because it had a stiff spot when it turned guess which rod had given up while the original 5 were still fine. so I guess on the big rods the non drilled one's are the better of the two in stock configgeration.

Anybody else find this to be true ??

thank's
jon b

[Dave S]

I ain't local I'm in Va.:D And the rod with the holes seemed week, thats why the bolt broke.:( Not week but not as good as the type with out the holes where they break the forging. The newer type with out the holes align better and don't stress the rod bolt as much. How ya doing Jonny?

[steve]

1)Top guided.
2)Bottom guided w/o holes.
3)Bottom guided w/ holes. The last one cannot be cut top guided without it being marginal at best. There is just not much alignment area. The bottom guided w/o holes can at least be narrowed if you want to run it top guided. The top guided version has been shot peened, polished around the bolt holes and oil slot and has 2 holes drilled at the top just like the newer 41 series race rods. Some of the local guys will spin all of them including the ones with holes past the 10,000 mark in their drag motors. :cool: