Oil injection removal

[fnshrmaster]

What do I have to do to remove oil injection on my 1992 merc XRi 200?:confused:

[pyro]

Print this out and save it. This is your official Laser EFI Oil Injection Removal Guide, courtesy of yours truly:

Remove both oil tanks and hoses. Pinching the hose to the oil pump with vise grips will lessen the oil mess. Disconnect oil cap wires from module. On some motors, you have to temporarily remove the ECU and upper bracket to remove the oil tank. No big deal.
Remove pump rotation sensor. (has 3 wires)
Remove "oil warning module." Disconnect it from anything it was hooked up to.
You might as well remove the water detection module on the front of the motor while you're at it. It relies on the other module to warn of water in the fuel. Check your filter more often now.

Since the small bolts that hold the oil pump on may be hard to access on your motor, you will probably need to take out the bolts that hold the vapor separator on, and remove some fuel lines and a couple of small bleed lines to move it. You'll be able to swing the assembly slightly out of the way to access the oil pump's bolts.

Remove the oil pump, and the magnet & shaft assembly behind it.
Slide it out, and replace it with the plastic blockoff (you have this, right?) There should be an o-ring on its shaft detent. Flat side of the shaft faces the crank. This plug will prevent the bushing from falling out inside your crankcase.

The "incoming oil" fitting on the vapor separator is a check valve. If you simply remove the hose from the barb, it will probably be fine. You can replace the fitting with a plug if you want.

The "outgoing air pressure" fitting on your block is also a check valve, but it needs to be removed and replaced with a threaded plug.

The blockoff kit will include the special plug, o-ring, 2 screws, and a threaded plug.

Order from Rickracers:
www.rickracers.com
[email protected]
Be sure to mention you're a Scream And Fly member.

-chad

[jrumon]

What happens to the wires that are "unplugged" from the various sensors...are they just left "unplugged" ???

I heard that you should mechine the gear off the oil pump drive shaft and reinstall it then use a block-off plate so that bushing can't move... what is that "plug" doing???

REMINDER... to get you fule in the tank "PRE-MIXED" a bit before you do the oil injection removel so the injection system has it at the correct ratio before everything is removed... Jim.

[jrumon]

What happens to the wires that are "unplugged" from the various sensors...are they just left "unplugged" ???

I heard that you should machine the gear off the oil pump drive shaft and reinstall it then use a block-off plate so that bushing can't move... what is that "plug" doing???

REMINDER... to get you fuel in the tank "PRE-MIXED" a bit before you do the oil injection removel so the injection system has it at the correct ratio before everything is removed... Jim.

[pyro]

The only wires left hanging are a couple of female inline connectors, tie them back and they'll be alright. The rotation sensor can be removed entirely with it wires. Same with the oil cap float switch wires.
A couple of the module's wires connect to a terminal block on the starboard side. Remove them, but leave the other wires on the block.

The blockoff plug has a "dummy shaft" on it the same size as the pump gear and shaft, it occupies the internal volume where the pump used to be. It holds the bushing in place.
I think this might be the kit:
http://rickracers.com/product_info.php?products_id=340
The picture doesn't really show the shaft part of the plug.
Talk to Barbara at Rickracers, she'll know the one you need.

Why would you want to re-install the pump? The problem with them lies in the plastic crank gear failing, why would you want to continue spinning a steel gear aginst it at 6000+ rpm? Hell no.

For those with carbs, you don't have to mess with the vapor separator or ECU mounts, you can skip those steps. Easy access to the pump's mounting screws. The fuel line tee fitting where the oil goes in must be eliminated on a carb motors' fuel line...

Do a search. There's a lot of posts about injection removal.

-Chad

[jrumon]

I always have pulled my injection systems off (2.4L)...took out the oil pump drive shaft and machined off the gear, and made a cover plate to get rid of that scary little pump... I just was not sure what to do with the "sensor" wires... the ECU and oil buzzer won't freak out id everything is just left unplugged (you don't have to reconnect or ground anything)???

[pyro]

The ECU does not play a role in the oil warning components.
The module that triggers the horn is COMPLETELY removed, it is no longer needed. The overheat alarm wire is on a terminal block on the starboard side, and remains connected to the dash harness for overheat alarm.
Besides the sensor connections which are removed, I think the only other female inline wire connections that should be left "hanging" are:
1. power (purple)
2. pulse connection (tells module the engine is running)
3. ground wire(s)
Correct me if I missed anything?

On some motors, there is another module stacked under the warning module. The mounting screws must be shortened or replaced to re-mount the other module.

Machining off the gear teeth is probably just fine, but the kit costs less than $15, and consists of:
Special plastic plug
screws
o-ring
threaded plug

-Chad

[at100plus]

Just remove oil inj. from my 2001 PM 225.

I took off the tank, replaced with blockoff, plugged crankcase inlet, and vaper canister inlet, and removed the pump rotation warning sensor.

My question is, is this the module that you refer to above and should I remove this?

Other than the wires that went to the oil injection warning system, it has

1. a blue wire that goes to the little box with the red light on it at the front of the motor (what is that BTW, and shouldn't it go on when the key is turned on?)

2. a green wire that goes to the back switchbox on the starboard side.

3. A purple wire that goest to the bottom of the front box for the EFI

and

4 a Tan/blu wire that goes to the key/control box harness.

[at100plus]

What does this little box do, and shouldn't it light up when I turn the key on? This is where the blue wire goes.

The purple wire goes into this harness (indicated by purple arrow)

[pyro]

Remove them both. They will no longer be neded.
The oil warning module must be removed, since it will no longer detect pump rotation, it would sound the alarm constantly. The green wire from the switchbox sends pulses to the oil module to tell it that the engine is running.
Yes, that little module with the red LED is the "water in fuel" detection module.
The blue wire triggers the oil module to sound the beeper if there's water in the filter. Purple is always "key on" 12V power.

You could actually leave this module on the motor if you really wanted to, just tape up the blue wire connector. The only indication you'll have is the red LED will come ON if there's water detected in the filter. Some people say that the filter doesn't work well for separating water anyway.

I think if you disconnect the green oil module wire, the module can stay on the motor withouts sounding the oil alarm, but I'm not sure if the 'water' module will be able to trigger it.

Just take them both out. No big deal. Less **** to go wrong...

-Chad

[at100plus]

Excellent, cause the water module mounts are broken and it's zip tied on so I'm happy to take it off.

Thanks Chad.

Good thread.

Mike