Fuel/Oil pump on 3 liter Looper?

[imq707s]

I was looking at my motor yesterday (89' 200GT ) and it looks to me like the fuel pump and oil pump are one complete assembly. Is that correct? Also, is the pump driven off of a gear that is turned by the motor, or is it an electic pump? What kind of rpm's is the VRO oil injection good for? I'm planning on spinning my motor up to around 6500 rpms or so every once in a while. I think it would be a good idea to mix my own fuel. Probably 40:1 for a little extra insurance.

What do I have to do to disable the oil injection so I can mix my own fuel? I think I just have to remove the oil line going to the pump and plug it.

Thanks

:D

[Laker]

The VRO pump is a great fuel pump! Disconnect the oil side and warning horn leads. Premix at 40:1 and enjoy.
Its Vacuum powered.

[sosmerc]

The VRO pump is sometimes referred to as an "air motor". It is run off of positive and negative pulses produced by crankcase pressure.
You will hear mostly bad comments about the system. I'm not a big fan of oil injection for high performance engines, no matter what brand. But to be fair, if all the components in your system are properly setup and installed (and maintained) the VRO does work. I believe it was first introduced by OMC in 1984, and it has been revised, revamped and improved over the years. The latest version was renamed OMS and I believe produced a constant 50:1 ratio, rather than a variable ratio.
If you decide to keep your system, I'd sugguest you buy a factor manual for your engine so you can go thru the proper procedure for both vacuum and pressure checking your pump. It is also extremely important that all of your fuel fittings be 3/8's and your hoses properly clamped so there won't be any air leaks. Eliminate any un-needed restrictions such as anti-siphon valves, sharp bends or kinks, long runs or high rises. Drain your oil tank and inspect for signs of oil gelling at the bottom and around the oil pickup filter. Use a top quality injector oil such as Merc Premium PLUS or Amsoil HP Injector Oil (yes, there are other oils, but these oils I can personally recommend based on personal experience, as well as the experience of my customers).
If you choose to remove the system, you can simply disconnect the oil line at the bellypan fitting (be sure to properly cap off the intake barb) and then disconnect the electrical harness connector coming from the VRO unit (otherwise your oil warning harn will be coming on) The fuel pump part of the VRO will still function.
To "assist" the vacuum pump, I personally like to install a Holley electric fuel pump in the boat to "push" fuel to the engine. If you do, be sure to install a regulator so that your pressure does not exceed 7 psi at the engine.

[imq707s]

Thanks for the info guys, that's just what I was looking for.

[Miss Isle]

Caution:

Be very carefull if you decide to use the VRO at high RPM's These babies won't warn you until you have burned your motor down that they have failed, either Oil Or fuel.

My best suggestion is to ELIMINATE the VRO all together, especially since you are running a looper motor. These are getting old enough that they will fail without warning.

My best suggestion is, if you never exceed 6000RPM and have stock Carbuerators with stock jets, use a Bellows type electric pump. These will be the most user friendly. Get one at your local parts store. They are very cheap. Thirty to forty bucks. You must plug off the VRO vacum line. Do not put a rubber cap on it. I guarantee you will burn #4 cylinder if you do. Instead remove the hose barb, take it to your local parts store and obtain a BRASS plug with the same size pipe threads. Make sure you use a thread lubricant/sealant when re-installing the plug. One with PTFE or My favorite Leather Loc (also known as Mega Loc, get this at a plumbing supply house).

When you mount the Bellows pump, make sure that you mount it absolutely as low in the boat as possible inside the boat. This makes it easy for the pump to prime itself.

The reason I recommend a Bellows pump is because the pump will stop pumping when it reaches maximum pressure. This is advantageous to the user because Once you back into the water and turn on the ignition, remember to wire it hot to the ignition in the throttle remote, the pump will run a short time at full speed, then slow and stop. You are now ready to start the engine. This is sooooo easy, and you never have to listen to a noisy "Vane" style pump again. The beauty is you still have not removed the fuel inricher, AKA the "Choke"

The bad thing is if you plan to "hot rod" your motor. I.E. Remove the air box, add fingerports, shave heads, and for the lucky few , find 1986 XP 200 limited carbs (the recalled versions), the Bellows pump can't keep up with the volume of fuel used on long WOT runs.

Then you MUST go to a Vane pump. This will give a constant vibration throghout the boat, remember it still has to be mounted as low as possible to maintain prime. Don't waste your money on a Holly, Blue or Red, as the motor only requires slightly more fuel than the Bellows will allow. Also remember to get one with a built in pressure regulator. These are cheap at your parts store also.

When you use a vane pump, use a separate switch to turn it on and off. Less convenient, but gives more control. This is advantageous when performing a compression test or other vital checks.

Remember to mix your fuel in your fuel tank as the Oil Bag will no longer be used, I know you know this, but if I don't give this disclaimer someone will ask a stupid question, or burn their motor down and blame me.

I readilly give this advice, even though I am new to this thread, (this is my first post) I have been able to take a Hydrostream Voyager in full interior package, with a passenger to 98MPH, turning a 32 Cleaver 6700 RPM's. I'm currently trying to beat this with a V-8 300. Can't experiment until my Hydraulic stearing is installed.

Good luck and hope to hear replies in the future with your progress.

LOL
Miss Isle, AKA theplummer

[B.Mac]

Rip it out by the roots, plug the vacum hole in the block, install a Holley Red electric pump (e-bay @ $50) at or below tank level and use quality 3/8" fuel line and clamps.
A VRO is fishin' motor stuff and just another link in the failure chain.
B.MAC:D

[imq707s]

B.Mac, do I just hook the electic pump up to the key, so that when ever the ignition power is on, the pump is on? Should I use a relay, or just run a hot wire all the way from the dash to the fuel pump? What gauge wire?


Also, with the Holley red pump do I need a fuel pressue regulator?

What do I need to do about the fuel filter? Do I need one before and after the pump?

Anyone have some pics of their setup?

Thanks

[Prof. O/B]

I love the OMC VRO's, however, you just need to disconnect the oil lines to it and put a 50:1 mix in the gas tank and you'll never have any trouble out of it. Ha!............Prof. O/B

[B.Mac]

First of all I defer to Laker and Prof O/B as they have both forgotten more than I'll ever know about boating but.......
I prefer chucking that big ugly cumbersome thing on the side of my motor that makes the most disgusting sucking, clacking and snorting noises I have ever heard...... Sounds like a cow milking machine or something:eek:

Holley Red Flows 67 GPH at 5 PSI is pre-set at 7 PSI and it has a built-in adjustable regulator. I run mine right out of the box. Motor draws only 2 amps current 7-1/2 Amp fuse recommended.

Mount the pump as low and close to the tank as you can get it.
Use good quality 3/8" line and good clamps. Install a "sight-glass" screen filter between the tank and pump to catch any contaminants. Out the pump through a water seperator and out the hull to the primary fuel distribution line at the rear of the port side of the airbox. I have an in-line pressure gauge just before the airbox but it's not needed, it's more for me to check periodically that I still got my 7 lbs.....it's a psychological comfort gauge:D

Anyway, electrically you need to replace your present kill/ tether switch (usually single circuit) with a dual circuit (one open/ one closed) kill switch. Run from your switch (source) with 16 AWG to the tether, to a fuse and on to the pump. This way if there's ever an accident or emergency the pump gets shut off with the motor.

Now that I spent $100 of your money and a half days work you may want to listen to Laker and Prof. O/B :D I'm just Irish and don't drink so I gotta do somethin' with my hands all the time:p
Hope I answered your questions.......
B.MAC:D