Hey Techno, you know anything about paint????

[Raceman]

I still like to mess with acrylic laquer for several reasons. For one thing, I can shoot it in a less than clean enviroment and deal with any of the criters I catch. I can fix my less than professional technique. And most of all, it's the most correct thing to put on the old cars and old Mercs. Problem is, it'll go flat a lot sooner than before and it doesn't sand and buff as well as it used to. A friend that's started restoring all his old outboards with catalysed base coat/clear coat says the reason the laquer is different these days is because the EPA made em take the lead out about 15 years ago. Question is, can it be put back in with an additive somehow like some folks add tetrehedral (spelling?) lead back to gasoline?

I still like the old board better.

I always spray base coat/clear coat if I'm worried about dirt. Just put a few more coats of clear on and then sand them off with 1500 grit paper. The finish after its buffed is like glass and just as smooth. The dirt that got into the base remains but blends in because its under 2-3 coats of perfectly smooth clear. I've done with Imron as well. I like the Dupont products to. But this might only be applicable to flat surfaces (cowlings, hulls, decks etc.), it wouldn't work with parts of course.

-bll

[22Velocity Pro Max300]

Raceman, During Easter week I had the blue fades on the front deck and gunnels of my Velocity shot with Dupont Urethane Enamel and their matching clear coat for the finishing coats. Originally when the crew at Velocity had painted the blues and stripes they had used Imron. I debated for awhile which way to go.Techno is right on the money,the new method with the Urethanes and the clear puts a show finish on the boat. Frank

I've used both Imron with clear Imron on top and base enamel with clear on top of that. I would say the Imron is tougher but it needs a really good primer (use Dupont Corlar) or it will peel (its nothing but pure plastic). Dupont's base coat/ cleat coat system is awsome! The finish is just incredible. Throw your waxes away, there's no difference from waxed and no wax. But do it to protect the finish.

I always clear over stripes and graphics as well. That gives a real professional look that doesn't collect wax along the edges of the graphics. Duponts stuff is reall easy to work with as well, anybody can spray it. Just follow the directions and practice a little first. Where a mask ALL the time!! Even during cleanup! Gloves as well! Imron WILL kill you if you breathe it!. But if you do that, you're gonna have a blast working with their stuff, its really top quality stuff and fun to play with.

-bll

[Techno]

My experience is with both lacquer and the two parts but to a highly limited degree. I didn't really see any difference in shooting either one. Both are poisonous but the Iso type is worse.
I don't know if you can add the lead to the lacquer if in fact thats the problem. What you said about correctness is the ONLY reason I see for using the lacquer. But how many people are painting these old things with the orange peel that should be there also With the clear coat you have a much more durable surface, looks great, and you can fix the mistakes that you might make. My own opinion is to paint the vehicle the way I want it to be and not by an era date, but thats because I can ignore the era stuff.

I've heard of a "wax" called zaino. It's supposed to be very incredible stuff by what I've heard. will make a non clear coat look like a clear and a clear coat look even better. Someone put it on their wifes car before winter and looked good after 6 months. I haven't tried it yet.

[BarryStrawn]

Raceman,

I believe the lead content in paint comes from the pigments - not the resins. So I don't see how it could be added later.

I also agree that nothing replaces lacquer when you want or need that look. But everything I have heard about the current lacquer from the major suppliers is bad. They want you to move to modern materials. But you might check into some of the specialty suppliers since the EPA regulations allow for limited production for the restoration market. Look in Hemmings I suppose or check with some of the high end restoration shops. Certain to be expensive.

That said, have you tried single stage urethane for solid colors? Color sanded and buffed it can look pretty close to lacquer. Urethane clear coat is wonderful stuff but I wonder how many of the younger folks have ever seen a first rate lacquer job?

Barry