H2O freezing in lower units??

[pyro]

I have a stock lower unit with a Hydromitive nosecone/LWPU. The epoxy at the original intakes has slight cracking on both sides. I have noticed how water escaping from the pinhole cracks leaves white streaks underneath, so I had to raise the question: How much water gets trapped behind the stock intakes on such a setup? How do I get it out of there? Does this **** freeze when the temps drop? I plan on chipping out the epoxy and re-doing it next season when I re-paint the gearcase. Do I have anything to worry about? See attachment.
-Chad

[Spreadeagle]

the LWPU cones that I've installed (Land and Sea units) I fill the original cavity behind the stock grates with waterproof epoxy filler, this keeps the water from getting into and filling the cavity. if this wasent done there will be water trapped with no way out,- can you say freeze and crack. You could drill a small hole at the bottom of the original intake to drain the water, then fix it right in the spring or simply remove the unit now, remove the water pump and drain the cavity.

How is a Bob's cone done? - anybody? there was an article in Family & Performance boating on his installation but I don't remember it adressing this issue

later
SE

[Talon2.5]

that streak your seeing is the corrosion dust being washed out youll need to strip it down like you said and after prepping the surface removing the corrosion use an epoxy primer or the outboard primer (zinc chromate) they sell at boat shops and paint it up nice, i'm sure that if water is behind there it will freeze in the winter but it's hard to say how much is behind it, i am assuming from having done a body work job on a bobs lower unit that there isnt much water in there, i used a metal conditioner for aluminum and alodine made by ppg to prep the aluminum for primer and paint, i got the chemistry from a local PPG paint dealer, you can see the gold color on the skeg in the pic at the right, the one thing i never understood is that the folks who install these do nothing about the corrosion that develops behind thier epoxy work, like alodine and metal conditioner to prep the metal as a corrosion inhibitor.

later skip

[Spreadeagle]

Who's got time to finish paint?

They say that a wet sanded primed unit is the fastest - however I've got no proof of this since any unit that I have painted had the paint peeled off on the first 10 minutes of running-

later
SE

[Ray Neudecker]

Bob's has a jig that set them up in and forces the epoxy through under air pressure. Even that isn't 100 percent perfect everytime. It doessave a lot of time and normally avoids pockets water can get into.

[pyro]

Thew nosecone was installed as an add-on option by the marina that set up and sold the boat and motor when it was new. I think the place was "Derk's Marine", somewhere in northern Michigan I believe. That oughtta be fun, chipping that **** out of there and filling it...

[DaveR]

I have a Land and Sea cone on a 200 case and live in Michigan. It's already off the boat, drained and filled, and under the bed (no basement). I do it every year since I put in a new impeller every year anyway. Besides, I have to give my wife something to talk about! At least it never freezes (unless she gets really mad - then the room gets mighty cold)

[AnthonySS]

CHAD,

I would just do your repair and then always remove your gearcase in winter and store indoors. I did this for years with any "Add-On" cone I ever owned.

Never had any cracking and generally the unit is indoors by the end of October.

It takes a little extra time to do each season but it is worth it!

[Spreadeagle]

poor thing must get lonely under there- why not clamp it to the end table, tape a lightbulb to the top of the shaft and hang a shade on it- intstant reading lamp.

this may explain why I aint got no wife-


have fun-
SE

[DaveR]

Oh, I was just kiddin' about the wife thing. She's cool - not many would let you keep motor parts in the closet and under the bed.

(did I type that right honey?)

[ProComp]

Battled with nose cones and paint and expoxy for years. Finally bought a sportmaster case and swapped the gears over. Best upgrade yet.

[pyro]

I've thought about it. I just can't justify spending
$1500 for a new gearcase.
I'll fix that baby up in the spring. It has been stored outdoors under tarp for several years, so if anything was to happen, it already has. There is a slight hill ot bump in the epoxy at the old intakes, and mild cracks along one side, probably from years of ice pushing from the inside. Honestly, I'm a young novice hack, I don't like to work on stuff. I've never changed my own impeller. Next spring will present an opportunity for me to pull out the service manual, drop the gearcase, do the water pump, and fill the stock intakes with epoxy filler as described above. I will sand the imperfections, prime with zinc chromate, and put on a fresh coat of paint. later.......

[Techno]

Why are you taking off the LU? bring the whole thing in and mount it to the kitchen counter. 200+ HP blender!
Don't forget the prop is food grade Stainless steel. Use crisco for the oil so you dont' mess up the food.
Even the cooling system can be used to mix up a hot toddy!
Tool time tim was always trying to upgrade the kitchen utensils this is right on track.

[Tom D.]

Yea but who wants exhaust and gas in there Betty Crocker cake mix?:D

[pyro]

After I fix the epoxy cracks, sand it and prime it, maybe I'll paint it with that cheesy dull silver paint, so it looks like a real gearcase!