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View Full Version : Evinrude 125 HP 1972 elec shift



martyc@tinet.ie
05-04-2001, 08:14 AM
Anyone able to tell me about the expected behaviour of the water pump in these beasts!!There is no pisser and i would like to know an easy way to see if water is pumping..Also it is lean sneezing a little,whgat does this mean?

thumper
05-04-2001, 11:37 AM
more info.
There's two ways of getting to see the waterstream on this motor. One, you can drill a hole in the block at or around the top of the head into the water jacket and thread it for a barbed fitting or you can cut the hose that leaves the bottom of the head and install a "tee" and run a small hose off of that and out the motor.
I used to have one of those motors and I went with the drill the hole method. Drawback is that you need to remove the head to see where you're drilling and the other way the drawback is that if you can't find a short enough tee the plumbing gets to be a nightmare because you can't squeeze the hose anywhere in it's bends cause if it collapses that side WILL overheat. The other question is, are you running a stock shifter? There should be an overheat horn in it. The way to check is to unhook the wire going to the sensor (on the head facing rearwards on the outside at about 2 or 10 on the clock depending on wich side you're looking at) and ground it to the motor with the key on this will tell you if you have a horn or not and that the circuit is good but the sensor could still be bad. If you have a functional overheat horn i would replace the pump and not worry about it in that motor in its stock form. Good pump, good motor = no problems.
The sneezing, is it at warmup or all the time?
Good luck

martyc@tinet.ie
05-04-2001, 12:50 PM
Started motor,ran it and after a while i guess the thermostat opened and thewater started to spit out the two holes, along with a pile of steam ,is this good,the motor then decided it wiouldnt switch off..like it was dieseling!!!(this was only after about 3 minutes running???)The sneezing seems to go away once the motor warms up..do u think im good?
thanks,
Marty.

martyc@tinet.ie
05-04-2001, 01:33 PM
By the way the left cylinders also got hotter than the right ones...should ther be that much steam???
Thanks again...its great to be ablke to talk to someone who had the same motor!!!
Would this mean that the jackets are getting blocked up with crud?What do i need to do if they are?Will i need to replace gaskets..i have ultra high temperature gasket sealer would a smear of this on the old gaskets be sufficient?
Cheers again,
marty

Looper
05-04-2001, 02:04 PM
My first motor was a 1968 or 69 Johnson 85 v-4 electric shift. Had that thing on a 14 foot Mckee tri hull. It would fly until the weight of the engine broke the transom at the gunnel and put a big old hook in the bottom. Then the thing stated to plow and you couldn't get the bow up no matter how you set the trim pin.

I had a morse control for the throttle and a 3 way toggle shift for the electric shift mounted under the console. I could start this thing in gear and shift at any speed. Not a good thing when my cooler slid back under the console and hit the switch from full forward to full reverse at near full throttle! Kicked the motor up and blew water all over the bow of the boat. I stopped, let me heart slow down and put it in forward. Somehow did no damage to the gears.

I was about 12 or 13 at the time and had to start the thing with the rope starter for an entire summer until my dad found a donor 75 hp. Made it really interesting and dangerous when I would accidently start it in gear with the rope. Oh, it also had a broken exhaust hose, so I had to leave the cover off when I ran it because of all the smoke in the cowling. Ahhh, those quart to six pre-mix days were fun.

Arizona Hotboater
05-04-2001, 02:44 PM
I started out with a '72 85hp evinrude on a 16' crestliner tri-hull. I can tell you, the steam isnt good. Dont run it again till you fix the problem. You likely have bad thermostat(s) or a blockage in the heads or block. First I would check the thermostats by dropping them in a cup of hot, but not boiling water. Try to get it to 160*. See if they open. Or just buy new ones. If all looks good, you will need to take off the t-stat housings, place a rag around a garden hose to work as a gasket, and try to flush it out. Its been so long since I had a motor like that one that I dont recall the design of the cooling system. Someone else may be able to suggest a relief area for backwashing...like taking out the poppet valve on a merc. There should be no steam and it shouldnt diesel. You can reuse gaskets as long as you dont tear them. I have reused the head gaskets in the past on that same type of motor. Any gaskets that are symetrical can be turned over to change the pattern on the mating surfaces. If this doesnt clear the blockage, remove the water jackets on 2 piece heads, or remove the heads on 1 piece type heads. Look in the jackets of heads and cooling passages of the block. The side that gets hottest is the side with the most blockage. Good luck,
AZH

Greg Moss
05-04-2001, 05:21 PM
First take the hoses loose that come from the bottom of the head and put some longer hoses on them so that you can route the water out of the cowling. Then start the motor and see if the motor still gets hot. you should be able to lay your hand on the head and it not be to uncomfortable hot. If it is still gitting hotter on one side than the other you need to pull the heads and change the rubber deflectors in the water pasages next to the cylinders. I would use new gaskets for the heads due to the age of the motor they most likely have been on there for a long time. If both heads are getting hot the same you need to change the water pump. If after running it with the long hoses and it does not get hot hook the originall hoses back up if it gets hot then the t-stats are bad. Hope this helps Greg

Bill Gohr
05-04-2001, 07:26 PM
Those things would just spray amist out the exhaust relief holes thats normal. If you want to hook up a gauge, right behind the #2 intake cover there is a straight head screw type 1/8" pipe plug take that out and pull your gauge off of that. As far as the running condition it sneezes cause it's lean. Make sure the throttle plates are shut and then clean your carbs.....

Arizona Hotboater
05-05-2001, 12:37 AM
I have some even better advice than I gave in the prior reply. Do what ever Greg Moss and Bill Gohr say. They have forgotten more than most of us will ever know.
AZH :D

martyc@tinet.ie
05-22-2001, 04:07 AM
There are no rubber deflectors in this particular engines water jackets.Put in new head gaskets and gaskets on the 2 piece heads,also bought a new stat and threw it in.Question,With long hoses attached to the bottom of the cylinders should the water be really coming out with a lot of pressure or just like a tap opened a few turns...i still feel its getting hot,you could only keep your hands on the cylinders for a few seconds as they are too hot.
Marty.

Greg Moss
05-23-2001, 09:00 AM
You need to see what temp that m otor is running. the old feels hot method is different to some than others. get some kind of temp gauge reading to see what it really is running at. Are you running on a flusher? Some city water systems or wells can not supply enough water to test the cooling system properly. You should have a pretty good amount of water comming out of the hoses installed to test your cooling. you may have to put it in the water to check it out. Is there a ramp close you can take the boat to to test it?

martyc@tinet.ie
05-23-2001, 10:49 AM
There isnt a Ramp at all near me,would running it in a large barrell be any better or would the water in the barrell heat up after a while???...What about running it in a barrell that is constantly overflowing with cold water from the hose???How do i check engine temperature and water pressure.
Cheers,
Marty.

savage
05-23-2001, 03:19 PM
Running it in a barrel is not a good method,here's why.The exhaust is being discharged through the prop, the very next thing it hits is the front of the barrel. The exhaust then swirls to the back of the barrel, where it is sucked up by the water pump via the intake ports. The water pump doesn't get a good volume of water,mostly exhaust. If you are going to run a engine in a tank Mercury's factory recommends that the tank is at least 8'by 8'.