Mariner 200??

[ajboats]

I need help identifying this engine. Hood is badged 2.5ltr.Leg is marked 200hp.It is a carbed V6.There are no serial numbers stamped on the leg or on the core plug on the power head.On the block and crank case where Merc would sometimes stamp a serial number there is the number 2345.Block has never been tapped for the oil injection.It has never been fitted with a pulse fuel pump but uses an electric pump instead.It has been suggested that it could be a 94/96 high preformance model.What we need to know are the WOT rpm and the max ignition timing settings.Also what differences there are betwen this and the standard engine.

[Superdave]

I believe all the V6's run 25° max spark and I like the primary pickup as close to 0° as possible. I think Merc recommends 7° ATDC. Setting it at 0° gives smoother idle and helps stop the slight bog from idle to planing speed on a carb motor. Max rpm's on most Merc/Mariners is around 6000. I run my fishing motor up to 7000 with no problems. Several guys run more, but you lose some longevity. The more R's you turn the faster you need to rering. Some real experts will respond here shortly.
Dave

[ajboats]

Hi guys.Can anybody shed any more light on it.Here is pic of the port side.Note that it has new had an oil pump fitted.

[Talon2.5]

looks like a 2.5 style block with 5 petal horazontal reed fronthalf

depending on the bore size under the heads, off hand i'd say it looks like a 200

some of the 2.5 steel sleeve blocks have sleeves in them that are 2.4 liter and 2.0 liter sizes, so to know whether it's got the 2.5 steel sleeves and diameter we would have to see under the head

but shure appears to be a 200 :cool:

oh, and dave sounds right on the money with his timing, sounds like we do ours the same :)

[Terry Jackson]

I'm no expert,but that block is not painted and the oil injection is not even machined. I thought all 200s had oil injection. Could this be a 245 carb motor?

[Talon2.5]

245 would be 7 petal this is a 5 petal if ya look at the reed block bolts on the intake

these days anyone can strip the paint and alodine the block and stuff to look offshore style

the block could have been a 245/260 but someone apparently ahs changed it to 5 petal reed which is a 200 setup

[Superdave]

I see you still have the idle stabilizer module. You should remove it and throw it away if you set timing as per my recommendations. Run # 1 piston up to top dead center using a dial indicator. Set your pointer to the 0° mark. Then with motor running at idle set the primary pickup, (the little bitty screw on the throttle arm), to 0° with a timing light hooked to # 1 plug. You my need to adjust the idle screw a little to make it idle. Then "I" take mine to the lake and back it in still strapped to the trailer. Only back in until the motor is about halfway up the exh housing. Hook timing light to # 1 plug again. Set max timing to 25° at wide open in gear. It helps to have an extra person until you do it several times.

[ajboats]

Here is another pic of what I think is the serial no.It is the only number I can find anywhere on the engine.It is not like the Merc serial numbers I am used to,but is stamped on the block and crankcase where Merc used to put them.

[RSM]

AJ, I may be wrong but if you don't remove your idle stabilizer then I don't believe you want to set timming at 25 deg. I f I remember you go a couple less to compinsate for the stabilizer. Also 25 is max. and you should run high octane with that also check your compresion numbers with that high of timming. The pro-max motors run anywhere from 19 to 23 deg stock but must guys will set up like SUPERDAVE said. (without stabilizer hooked up)

P.S. superdave is this correct what I stated on the stabilizer and timming? I believe I reed that in my merc manual? If I am wrong someone correct me please.

[Superdave]

Merc you disconnect the red/white wire from the switchbox bias terminal. Set the timing, then hook it back up. I think they tell you 18° @ 850rpm's cranking speed. The stabilizer and also the spark advance module control spark advance and have been known to go out and cause a burned piston.
You are correct about the 23° setting instead of 25° for cheaper gas. It usually is okay unless you cut your heads to raise compression. Then you really need to watch your fuel. I run 93 octane with 130lbs compression and 25° timing with no problem.
Dave

[RSM]

OOOPS! You guys were talking ideal stabilizer and the whole time I was thinking spark advance module. That is the module you have to subtract timming advance for and has caused problems so I disconected mine so thare is one less worry.

[O/B Dude]

Here's what I see.... the block is finished in gold irridite suggesting its a hi perf motor. Its definitely a 2.5 and it was never fuel injected because its got bleed lines. It doesnt have the oil inj opened up, that tells me its a 245, but I disagree on the 5 petal deal...looks like a 7 petal. See how the reed castings are even instead of staggered? Ok it also has WH type carbs and not the 2.5 WMH's. The numbers on the front half and block match so its an original set. It has the hi-perf plug wires that came on the 245/260. It also has a carb slosh tube kit. I'd say its a 2.5 245 and someone might have raced it. I say that because of the WH carbs and the slosh tubes. Most non-racers wouldnt swap carbs or if they did, they likely wouldnt install slosh tubes. Who knows, someone might have had the carbs lying around and bolted them on their lake boat. The factory full throttle rpm is 7500...ignore that. Spin it as high as it will go. Set the timing at 25 or 26*. The differences between a 245 and a fishing motor is porting, cooling system, no upper motor mounts, forged pistons, no oil inj, ...ok what did I leave out? :D

[O/B Dude]

Here is my 7 petal front half. My motor is a ported promax, not a 245 but the front halves are virtually the same. Mine looks the same as yours, except for the oil inj blockoff plate.

[Superdave]

completely remove both/either, they have self advanced and melted pistons. Here's a link for timingtiming a 2.5 (http://forums.screamandfly.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=52132)

[Talon2.5]

See how the reed castings are even instead of staggered

there all even on the outside, theres a webbing on the inside that staggers them

you can see all the bolts that hold your 7 petal cages

his you only see the outers because it's a 5 petal and one of the bolts is under the carb

[Talon2.5]

way to tell.....

[Talon2.5]

the 5 petal

[Superdave]

Skip:eek:
Dave

[Talon2.5]

we had gone through this way back when on AZH's motor post, i went on a search for it and couldnt find the post, it may have gotten lost in the "crash of 2002" when alot of info was lost

i went through all my tech pics from over the years of posting and havent found them yet in my hard drive, i did find some that have check valves circled for one reason or another from old discussions that also show the 5 verses 7 petal looks of the front halves

in this one you can see the even sides and the area the head of the bolt goes into on 7 petal reed blocks...............

[Talon2.5]

this pic apears to have been from the same coversation back then hehehehe

it is the 5 petal front half even sides but configured different inside under the intake...........

[Talon2.5]

hey i found one from that AZH post

its showing the 7 petal bolt bosses when this came up before

look at this pic, it's a 5 petal set up............

[Talon2.5]

this is a 225 7 petal that i built

see the bolts plainly visible at each reed block down the side..........

[Talon2.5]

heres my 2.5 carbed i built..........5 petal, you can see the difference on the reed block bolts

anyway enough of my BS, i'll stop cluttering up the thread :D

[ajboats]

Closer pic of side

[O/B Dude]

Talon2.5, you're right! I have never owned a 5 petal and forgot about the webbing inside. OK, now I am really stumped. What 2.5 front half has 5 petal reeds and no oil inj? Maybe someone welded up the oil inj passage on this one instead of using a block off plate? I don't see any welds though. :D

[Maniac]

Looks like a 2.5 245 (14petal) long block with a 10petal intake reeds and reed cages. It may not run the best due to the increased intake volume, but it will work.......

[O/B Dude]

Holy 2.5 Batman... I think Maniac is right. AJBoats, pull the manifold and lets get to the bottom of this. If Maniac is correct, I may have a 7 petal (AKA 14 petal) cross drilled 245 manifold for ya.

[Maniac]

If I am right, and you want to convert it, I have a 14 petal stock 200 intake, and reed cages I could sell. You would have to buy reeds, and I think Brent Gill has a new set of Boyesen's he is trying to sell. Yank that intake and have a look.........:D

[Talon2.5]

i was looking through old pics and motors i built and i came accross these pics of the EFI i built for my talon years ago

look at this pic and tell me what ya think this is..........

[pirogue]

it looks like a 14 pedal 2.4 bridgeport. right or wrong.

[ajboats]

Hi guys.Thanks for all the info so far.Owner was on the phone and I am going over some time in the next few days so I'll check out the reeds.He is interested in getting as much power out of this engine as he can as it is going on the back of an ex-Gina Campbell racing RIB.

[O/B Dude]

AJBoats...let me know what the deal is on the motor. Looks to me like Maniac is correct. If so, you really need to swap to a 7 petal intake. Talon 2.5...looks like a BP. 7 petal (AKA 14 petal) Hi perf EFI front half and the block is a pre-92 V-6...looks like a 2.4 but I guess it could be a 2.0.

[Talon2.5]

87 bridgeport front half, oval port 2.4 paint stripped and alodined to match the BP front :D

[O/B Dude]

Hey Talon...do you have any pics of the oval ports? Just a bit curious. I have never actually seen the ports on an oval port motor. :D

[Talon2.5]

lemme look through some pics and see if i have any,, there the same as the bridgeport but not as wide and without the bridge

this is the same motor but cant see them

[Talon2.5]

i was going through the pics and got to thinking...........

he knows what an oval port motor is........well maybe they dont call them that? maybe my name for it is only used around here?

around here we refer to a normal production chrome bore 2.4 "non-bridgeport" motor as an "oval port"

i guess thats not the normal termanology for it, but thats what we always called them :confused: the machine shop called them that, i guess it's a way to say "not a bridgeport but a 2.4"

i guess you could call it a fishing motor block :D :confused:

anyway, hehehe just a normal old 2.4 block hehehehe

sorry for my termanology confusion

[O/B Dude]

Talon.... what I was refering to is the early 80's ModVP motor that has the large oval ports. I have never actually seen the ports on those. :D

[Talon2.5]

oh i got ya, no i dont have any pics of those, i wish i did and measurements too!! :D