HELP! Hairline cracks in hull

[somef00l]

I am new here but I have talked to Balzy on scaryfast.com and he has been on the case giving me good advice but he suggested I try here as well..

I bought my 18ft Flightcraft Gunrunner ski boat 3 months ago and originally when I bought it there were no cracks in the floor but recently I have been pulling up skiiers and I think the strain has cause these 2 hairline cracks in the hull, about ½ a foot from the transom. They are only visible from underneath the boat where I can see rust stains leaking out from them but on the water you can see a fair bit of water entering through them (from the inside, when I lift up the floorboard covering the actual floor base).

The previous owner apparently cut the old transom off and rebuilt it, and these leaks are happening at the exact place where the join was made (i can see the change of color etc of the fibreglass). Both cracks are on one side of the boat, one crack I have put a fibreglass patch over on the underside of the boat and it has stopped the water intake.

I am quite worried, especially after the last two trips in the past week. The first trip was just a fishing trip and we took on no water. The second and most recent I was pulling wakeboarders out of the hole and we were taking on quite a lot of water (the bilge pump was being used every 10 minutes). When I got home I noticed the second hairline fracture which is about 1 inch in length. This was after I had spotted and fibreglassed the first crack (about 2 weeks ago).

I was wondering if I could fix the situation by buying 4 lengths of thick hardwood and fibreglassing them onto the floor (in the inside), then patching the new crack on the outside, would this help?

Also I must mention the previous owner says the join he made with the new transom to the rest of the boat was done with a rebate joint and triple layered. The thing is though I can see the bulk of this on the floor, in middle of the back of the boat, but it is on the sides where it thins out and this is where the cracks are appearing. Hard to explain, but, there is even one bit furthest to the side, which is partially hidden by a tunnel thing (that runs to the front of the boat, and along sits the side pockets you put junk into, you know), where I can see where the actual join was made. At this spot there is minimal fibreglass covering the main fibreglass sheets and I can see about a 4mm gap where the 2 main fibreglass sheets were supposed to meet - and didn't. I can also see translucent light from the other side, like shining between this 4mm gap of the mainsheets through the outer fibreglassing layer which must be very thin. It is here where the orignal crack appeared. And the second one is more towards the middle.

Should I take this to a professional fibreglasser to have it looked at? Or is it possible to fix with my own firebglassing skills? Apparently the previous owner did the hull/transom join through a 'professional' and i am seeing how dodgy it acutally is...

Any advice you could give me here?

Thanks!

[somef00l]

I forgot to mention I have a 1989 Evinrude 225 hp v6 on the back. I have a few dodgies with the engine as well (it is apprently governed) but I might seek your help with this later.

:)

Thanks

[DaveR]

There are some comments on this on the general discussion board.

[Techno]

Balzy started a post about your problem on here so I kind of know whats going on.
If you could post a picture of the inside of the transom area I think that would be a big help. It sounds as if you have no transom knees or any other transom support. Do you have anything that runs from the floor up to the transom that would act as a brace?
Also you can't fix fiberglass by putting a sheet of it over a crack. the crack has to be ground out and beveled then new glass has to be layed in this area to make it all one piece again. this isn't as drastic as it sounds but it isn't as easy as "patching it either.
My Switzer only had a wood transom across part of it. Before I changed it( it was waterlogged and shot) you could see 2cm long cracks at the top of the transom where the wood ended. this had flat bar stock that ran from high on the transom to the stringer on the floor. Being bar stock it flexed so it really didn't support the transom as needed. It sounds like you have a similar problem the transom needs more support and is crackin the floor.
Where you see a crack in glass it's because it's moving but only right in that spot. sure sign of too much stress. By adding wood on the floor I think you might just move the stress to the sides of the boards. Instead if you can support the area that is creating the problem it should be a permanant fix then.
Try trimming the outboard all the way up for a lever and see if you can make the transom or bottom flex by heaving up and down on the lower unit.
I forgot to add that you shouldn't be able to get any movement no matter how hard you heave on it. The most that should happen is shaking the boat and trailer.


[Edited by Techno on 05-03-2001 at 07:06 PM]

[thumper]

It's too bad you had to get here under these circumstances. From what I've read on both boards you need to take the boat to someone that is qualified in marine glass and understands the stresses in a boat to pronounce it good or no because it would probably ruin your day to have to swim to shore and explain where in the water your boat is after the back of the boat split off and the motor took a ride on its own. Transom work is something I would never trust to be "just ok".
Have you talked to Dave W. yet? He is at least in Austrailia and might be able to point you in the right direction of who to go see and to talk to.
Best of luck and keep asking questions!

[somef00l]

Thanks guys..

Yeh Techno there are no transom knees or support as far as I know.. but now I guess I should consider having this all done. There is also flex in the transom, can you read my post in the general discussion about it?

Also thanks thumper... Do you have Dave W email address or is he part of this board? Also do you know where in Australia he is?

ok i will post on the general discussion thread Balzy started now..

[Instigator]

I used to sell Flight Crafts here in the states and they built a hell of a boat. I ran a 18' Bare Foot Boat with a Merc 200 EFI, I beat the hell out of this boat and never broke anything. Assuming yours is the same company I would assume that the dick head you bought it from did a **** job of repair!!! The rust color stain you see on the bottom of the boat generally indicates dry rot. If this is the case then the guy you bought the boat from only patched the problem and did'nt repair it. If the wood core for the transom is still in the boat, it needs to come out.
At some point in the boats life it has allowed water to saturate the transom and rotted it. The only fix is to have it cut out and replaced/repaired. This is a huge job for an experienced glass person let alone someone just learning.
If it is as bad as it sounds, park the boat! It's only getting worse from your description, and will continue to get worse untill someone gets hurt.
I would recommend getting a hold of a professional in your area assuming you can find one and get an estimate and explanation of what they see.
I am still friends with the local dealer here who might have some contacts at the Flight Craft factory for help.
Good luck and be carefull!! Instigator

[somef00l]

yes.. thanks Instigator. In your time have you ever come across a Flightcraft Gunrunner? that is the model of my boat.

The stain I was talking about is coming from a hairline crack on the bottom of the boat about half a foot from the transom. The transom seems to be in fairly good nick. It was totally rebuilt only 4 months ago I'm told, before i bought the boat.

I am not worried about the transom. It flexes a little but this is how the guy rebuilt it I am told. It is the cracks in the floor I am really trying to find a fix for.

[DaveR]

I'm sorry - be afraid.... be VERY afraid.

[Mark C.]

Has anyone heard from my buddy Graham Findley lately? He lives in Heathcote, a suburb of Sydney, and could probably help guide you better in your area. He called me awhile back but I haven't talked to him lately nor seen him post. I just fired off an e-mail to him - hopefully he is still online.

- Mark C.

[Arizona Hotboater]

You CAN fix it. Dont be afraid to undertake this task. Some years ago, I had never done glass work and had done little painting when I bought a 21 sleekcraft aristacrat with a 12"x2" hole in each sponson. I laid glass from the inside, fliped it over and finished it from the bottom with only glass. No wood stringers. You may need to add stringers or knees for extra strength, or replace rotten wood. You'll know when you get into it a bit. Its really a matter of taking things off for access to the area. I used to jump wakes at 65 in that boat and never got a crack in the repaired area. The main question is: Do you have the time to take on the repair yourself? Do you have the tools to do it? Air compressor, air file, etc... If yes, look it over, plan it out with strength in mind, and do it.
Good luck,
AZH

[somef00l]

good stuff Arizona, that's the stuff I need to hear right now :)

I have the tools and equipment, just a matter of finding the time.

[Instigator]

If you decide to undertake this project, you at least have "virtual" support here! The talent pool on this board runs very deep. If you want help, ask SPECIFIC questions and you will get all the help you need!
Good Luck!
Instigator

[Mark C.]

I just heard back from Graham. He's been busying wrenching on an F1 boat and hasn't gotten access to the board yet, so he asked me to post his reply:


"If it was my boat I would take it to a professional fibreglasser to have it appraised, Damien of SPLIT'S FIBREGLASS located in Caringbah (Sydney) does a reasonable job.

He could get a quote on the repair & also find out what would be involved."


Whether you do it yourself or have it done, I think it might be a good idea to at least have them take a look at it. I hope this is of some help!