Stupid igniton switch question.

[gtsmpuc]

Rewiring boat to go with my new 2.5 260. The igntion switch in the boat is out of a car or something. I've heard of people having ignition switches where they have an enrichner switch on them. Where at the end of high speed runs they can hit hem to keep fuel going into the motor for cooling purposes. I'm not sure if these where for the EFI's or not. Also does my motor have those safety peeps for over heating and what have you. If it does what do I have to hookup to make this function work? The shifter in the boat is basic and just pushes and pulls the cable.

[captcarb]

A Merc wiring harness (with a dash mount ignition switch) and a kill switch will provide all the functions you mention. Each push on the ignition switch will give one shot of prime. It includes the horn and if the sensor is on the engine it will warn of overheat. The ignition switch works backwards from an automobile unit. When the outboard ignition is off the ignition is grounded. Get a dual kill switch which will ground the ignition and unground the fuel pump when the lanyard is pulled.
CC

[us1]

You will need an outboard marine ignition switch as captcarb said, they are different than automotive. Only analog ECU’s will enrichen when you push the choke button after a speed run. The digital boxes are to smart to go into choke mode a t high RPM. If you have analog, run a wire from the yellow and red striped wire at the motor or ignition switch to a button on the dash. It will be much easer to push at WOT.

[DaveR]

This maybe being answered under another post, but how does the enrichment system work on a horn EFI with a an anaolog box. My cold start is awful. Is it just an engine temp. sensor that tells the EFI the motors cold?
Thanks

[us1]

When you push the enrichener button it widens the pulse width of the injector for the first few cranks of the motor.

[DaveR]

John,
Is that just the push key? I thought your post above said analog boxes didn't recognize the push key? Is There another enrichment button I need to wire? (switched from carb to EFI this year)
Thanks

[us1]

The analog box will recognize any 12-volt signal weather from the key switch or the dash push button.

[DaveR]

Is there any way to check and verify the enrichment signal from pushing the key in is being seen by the ECU? Maybe someplace I can measure a voltage change or something?
Thanks

[us1]

Unplug the ECU, find terminal #11 on the female 1/2 of the plug and check for 12 volts while key is on and enrichner is being pushed. If you see 12 volts so does the ECU

[Techno]

gtsmpuc, That doesn't look like a 260 to me. And it ain't workin as a sleeper either, the sound will give it away.

[DaveR]

EXCELLENT John, you've come through again, as usual!
Thanks

[Balzy]

BG reprogrammed it from an A-6. Today I hit the key at 6000 to 7000 on the way down from a few hot runs and it without a doubt fattened the motor. The last I heard was that it forced it to 15% rich when you punch the key in. That's about the way it sounded and felt too. (FAT) Not debating what you said about digital boxes, just trying to know for sure, and figure out why mine feels like it goes real fat when I hit the key. I actually tried it because I have a boggy pedal after I feather the throttle from above 7 to 8 K rums and ease it down. If I chop the throttle, all is good. If I ease it down it bogs starting at 4 K. If I stand on it and it comes to life. All the while I felt like it was going fat on me for some reason. Tried the key punch today and it lights up all on it's own with a steady hotfoot. Seems to me like it's going lean now. Don't like that idea. That **** hurts motas. Any ideas? I have gone though the whole fuel supply episode. All is good, installed test gauge just before the fuel rail. Pressure maintains good. Thinking about a bad temp sensor right now. Am I on the right track?

[us1]

None of the stock digital boxes I have worked with will activate the enrichner at high RPM. Its possible BG modified it or his software make the changes. I have not tested every box ever made. Also if you have a bad sensor it might be possible the ECU is being fooled into thinking it needs enriching which might explain why it runs poorly, just a guess. What is your fuel pressure at WOT and EGT. Is it possible BG made a mistake and reprogrammed your box for a 56-lbs. regulator and you are running a 39lbs?

[Balzy]

The black one. Had it before because this was a A-6. Fuel pressure is good at all rpm. I have a gauge in the line right before the fuel rail and have had passangers watch it. No EGT readings. I have swa[[ed fuel pumps and regulators already with no change. It runs WOT fine. It will still turn a 28 8000+. It is when I come off the throttle gradually that it has this hesitation. If I chop the throttle it is fine. If I ease it down below 4K the hesitation shows up. If you stand on it at that point it will come to life, but if you just hold a constant pedal position or ease back into it (like when you are just riding around) it wil bag down and if you don't kind of pump the pedal it will actuall stop. Yesterday punching the key fired it back up when the enrichening kicked in, nut you are right, it was at 3000 and below when I did it. couldn't feel any change when I punched the key at 7000 just to see what it did. Where do I go from here??????????

[us1]

OK, try disconnecting the air temp sensor. This will run it 10% richer just to see where you are at. It could be a sensor or the fuel curve needs to be tweaked a little. Keep in mind it may run crappy on the bottom end when you try this, go to WOT and back off and see what happens.

[Balzy]

and I may just switch to an A-48 to see if it is the box itself. Let's hope it isn't !!!!!!!!!!
When yous ay air temp sensor, you are taking about the round black sensor on the starboard side of the front half with the 2 grey wires, right?

[us1]

Yes, that is the sensor. It sounds like the fuel curve to me since it ran fine before.

[gtsmpuc]

It's a '95 model a37, Jay said this was a bastard yaer or something. I forgot if it was analog or digital. Also will a '00 2.5 ignition switch and wiring harness work on my motor. Wiring colored coded the same and all?

[MERCMAN]

i had a box doing the same thing yours is and it had to be reprogrammed again , was your motor doing this before you had it programmed to an a10? your a10 uses a 56 lb regulator just like your 6 did.

[Balzy]

I can't remeber if it started just before the A-10 change or if the A-6 did it a little bit too. Gettin old is a bitch.

[us1]

I can’t remember what that ECU is, but if its analog it sucks. Your late model switch should work fine with the same wire colors.

[gtsmpuc]

What all does this indetail? Can I just switch out ECU's? What ECU to go with? I don't want to turn my motor right now past 7500 until further work is done to it.

[MERCMAN]

the 2000 ignition switch will hook right up to your motor. the a37 is not very user friendly as well. it is a half mix between the analog ecu and the gen 1 digital boxes.

[us1]

Switching to a digital ECU is very easy. Just change the ECU to the digital one and install the proper vacuum post for the vacuum line on the ECU. Make sure you have the right regulator for the ECU.

[gtsmpuc]

in your opinion what should I run. '95 2.5 260 3 steel sleeves w/ wiseco pistions. I want toget rid of the pistons and resleeve all the cylinders to steel, but I don't know yet how the money situation will be next spring yet. So for now I wont turn the motor past 7500 and see how long it will last. I'm probably going to have Jay drystack my exhaust. The way he does it seems to me to be a little better for a lake boat than what you have posted I could be wrong though. I will also have him lighten my flywheel. Should I relieve my exhaust above th water line or not? That's about all I will do for now. This should give my boat a good 20 mph over the 3.0 I ahd on it.

[us1]

It will come out of the hole better with the exhaust relief above the water line. Why are you switching to steel sleeves and why can’t you go over 7500.

[gtsmpuc]

With the wiseco pistons they worry me going over 7500. Actually all the horror stories make me worry over 6500. Running half steel and half nic also worries me. The compression between them is aobut 10# they heat up different and they are mixed in the block. I beleive they are cylinders 1, 4, and 6. I could be completely wrong I don't know. Which ECU do you think would be best for this application?

[us1]

If you just want to run under 7500 any offshore digital ECU will be fine. Yes the nic and steel swell at different rates and end up at different sizes, but when bored and honed properly and the right ring is installed it should not be a problem. Many of my race motors have steel and Nic in them. The Wisco is not as good as stock but again when the motor is set up right they will run good. The main weakness is the ring locator pin which I replace with a high carbon steel pin pressed in vertically and the top of the piston is welded with a special welder and alloy. The piston is only heated where the pin is and can be held in my hand immediately after the weld is done; meaning the piston is never distorted by heat. After this I run them to 9500 RPM with no problem. If you saw the Parker Enduro on TV this year I got second place and ran the whole two-hour race with modified Wiscos turning 9500 continuously.

[gtsmpuc]

Saying that all of the tolerances are Ok there except for the locators. How much do you charge to weld them up and put in the locators. Please recomend an offshore box for me or at least a couple of different ones and then I can make my own decision. Somebody emailed me that they were going to get some 849849 in. I think this is the number they gave me. Do you know anything about them?

[us1]

Isn’t Jay doing your motor for you, I don’t want to step on his toes.

[gtsmpuc]

When I get ready to build it he is the man. But for right now I would like to get it reliable and not dump a whole lot of money into the internals. If Jay can do this then I will definatley send them to him, but he has never mentioned anything about doing something like that. I'll check with him right now, I think he is at work playing on the computer anyways. And even if I pick Jay to do work for me the more advice the better. I'm still jsut a kid and growing up around racing and adults my whole life I've learned one thing and that is to shut up and listen. Learn from somebody elses spending THEIR money on mistakes.

[us1]

Offshore ECU A36 or A5