Omc Rod Alignment Tool

[DIAMOND]

Hello guys,

Is this tool absolutely required to reinstall the rods to the crank? It is very expensive and I don't want to get sucked in to buying a tool I don't realy need. I figured if I was carefull with stepping up the torque sequence I should be safe...right?

Next question......Top main bearing removal....any tricks!

Thanks for the help

Have a great holiday !

DIAMOND

[ON THE HUNT]

Yes the tool is needed.If you assemble a cap on the rod youll see that the one side lined up but the other is "hanging over" as you tighten the other bolt with your fingers.The caps have a spring to them.The tool takes care of the spring and aligns it to the same dimentions the cap was in before they cracked it.Yes,You can assemble them with your hands.Its a pain in the azz and the chances of incorrect alignment are high.Either way I always check with a stethiscope on the rod cap a the 5lbs level to make shure the caps rite.If its not youll here a tick,and dont confuse this with the piston rings going over the ports.

[Laker]

If your building a crossflow you can get away without the tool and just take your time. With the loopers its a bit more tricky.. It can be done... This years Looper I did without the tool with NO problems but like OTH said its a big pain in the a$$ and if you screw it up its an even bigger $$$. :cool:

[DIAMOND]

Thanks Guys,


I was quoted $350 for a tool. Anybody got one cheaper or any other ideas. I only have the need for one motor assembly (looper) I will check with my local shop and see what they want to assemble a block, probably the same cost as the tool:rolleyes:

DIAMOND

[ON THE HUNT]

$350.00 for a new BMCA rod tool?Somebodies cutting you a deal.Retails $440.

[Bill Gohr]

is not necessary if you're careful while torquing. The tool was created for the extra torque on the Looper bolts and the were afraid that the cap would skid during the torque procedure. If you are careful while torquing and do it in small increments say 10lbs at a time you don't need it.

[DIAMOND]

Thanks Bill,

I kind of figured something was up or we would be using a tool for the Merc rods also. I will just take my sweet time building up the torque and checking alignment. This motor is a stock GT200 looper rebuild.

Have a great holiday!

Diamond

[NEECAPR]

Lots of people getting along without the tool including some real experts who haven't weighed here in yet. I hardly use mine anymore because you also need to learn to work with Mercs that don't have them. Then same methods work for both.
BTW, just after I bought the tool I discarded half a dozen of the straight looper rods because they had botched edge grinding so the tool didn't do the job anyway. Now it doesn't matter! Costly farce!! :D

[Propelled Marine]

Removing the top bearing?

The best way to remove the bearing from the housing is to heat it up. With the heat the bearing should come out easily.

[DIAMOND]

Thanks Guys!


Well I should have all my parts ready to put this motor back together over the holidays. I have done a few Mercs but this will be my first Looper. Thanks to all of you at Scream & Fly.

Diamond

[BenKeith]

Diamond,

Get you a good strong C-clamp and grind the sides so it will fit in the cranks rod slot. If you have one that wants to be a pain in the butt to get the cap right, use the C-clamp. If you EVER torque one down out of alignement, you can just about bet it will never align.

Like they said, be patient and willing to keep working with it and they will usually align. Just be sure to torque in small increments and checking as you go.