sleeves

[mercrazy]

i have several blocks that need multiple sleeves. the cost of hiring this work done is more than the motor is worth when finished. i would like to try this myself. i have milling machines, boring bars, presses, etc. i know some people heat the block and freeze the sleeve but one of the shops that does my sleeves just presses them in. i don't want to get into the sleeve business, just repair my own. what's the easiest technique and can i get instructions anywhere? the shops that do mine don't want to show me how.
who is the best source for good quality wholesale sleeves?

[us1]

Bore the hole .005 under, smooth hone hole, heat block to 450 for 1 1/2 hour silp in sleeve at room temp no need to press it will fall in.

[Rickracer]

I can supply you with L.A. or Advanced sleeves for great prices. Let me know what ya need, and I'll shoot ya some figures.

[mercrazy]

thanks john and rick
john, will i have time to install more than 1 sleeve before the block cools? will the same technique work for nikasil sleeves if i can get them? will i have to hone the sleeve to size after it cools? how much clearance should i have for cast and forged? what about boring depth? should it be the exact length of the sleeve or a little more? jay recommends a very smooth hone job. how do i get that, just use finer stones?
rick, email me the sleeve prices for 2.4-200 and 2.5-200. do they offer different outside sleeve diameters for the same engine? get a price for flanged sleeves if there's a difference. can you get nikasil sleeves?
does anybody sell nikasil sleeves?

[Rickracer]

Yes, there are different sleeve thicknesses, and I do have flanged sleeves as well. I will have to check on the nic sleeves though. I'll post some prices when I get to the shop later.

[us1]

The specs I gave you are for steel sleeves in a 2.5 stock production block. Nicasil/aluminum is done totally different and will need to be replated when done. Yes you have to bore and hone the sleeve after it cools. The final bore size depends on what you are doing with the block cooling system, piston manufacture, piston type, and RPM. Bridge ports need a step machined at the bottom of the bore for the sleeve to sit on, never bore a Bridgeport all the way to the bottom when boring for the sleeve. The fine hone Jay is talking about is if you are planing on running Tungsten rings on a steel bore, use fine stones. You can drop 6 sleeves in with one heating of the block if all goes smoothly. There is no way to answer all these questions in total detail in a post, it took years to learn how to do it well.

[Rickracer]

For the 81 and earlier 2.4 200, there are 1/16", 3/32", and 1/8" thicknesses, and they are $54.00 for most part numbers. The flanged sleeves are $59.00. Nikasil sleeves are available, but I need to know specific applications to get a price, and I believe they are special order. It might help if I send you the application chart.

[us1]

When buying sleeves keep in mind they come standard and over size such as, .010,.020 and so on. If you already have a sleeve in the motor you will most likely need to install an over size sleeve now. If you motor is not a Bridgeport but is a 2.4 you will still need to sit that sleeve on the step like I was talking about earlier. Make that step .140 off bottom.

[mercrazy]

i'll be doing stock 2.4 and 2.5 200's with stock cooling. will the .005" undersize be right for the 2.4 also? what clearance do you recommend for forged pistons in these engines?

[us1]

Wisco, 6000 RPM and under, stock cooling system, 2.4 and 2.5 stock production blocks. If you’re using a Wisco I would set it up with a FINAL size of bore to .007 for both. If your not using the stock cooling system the 2.5 will cold seize with this clearance. Set the block up for a FINAL size of .005 to .004 smaller than the sleeve. This hole must be fine stone honed before heating the block. Lightly sand sleeve with 320 to remove all flashing and burrs. On the 2.5 do not take any material off the step in the bottom of the bore with the boring bar or the sleeve will sit to deep and you have wrecked the block. When you are done counter bore the sleeve to stick out of the block .001 to give it room to sink a little when run. Head gasket will seal fine.

[Greg]

WOW

Mercrazy: I think I'd just have US1 (John) do it, or someone like Jay Smith, Robarie, etc. I've seen some people really mess up what could have been a salvagable block by trying it themselves.

[WaterBoy]

I have a 94 2.5 offshore carb. motor that I know needs a sleeve in #6 and maybe in #2. It is a nick. motor and was wondering what I should do and the cost of sleeving this motor. Also the price on pistons for this motor. Why I'm at it, how about cost for the gaskets for the engine too. Any info would be glady appreciated.


Waterboy

[mercrazy]

would you be interested in trading your engine, as is and some boot, on a 2.4 bridgeport efi or a 2.5/260?

[Greg Moss]

I just got a 245hp carb motor back from Dave Hensley. Typical of the work he does--excellent. I would just box up your blocks and send them to him. By the time you learn and get all the tooling it's cheaper and easier to let some one like Dave do it that knows how and does a GREAT job.

[WaterBoy]

Where is Dave located and what is his number? Mercrazy who are you talking to? I've been thinking of switching mine to a EFI, but wife being preg has difficulted some things. I have a guy wanting me to tell him an offer on how much I want for the entire rig as is. I really don't know what it would be worth though. It is a 94 Mirageskiracer and I have less than two weeks to tell him on what I plan on doing. Any info would be gladly appreciated.


Thanks, Waterboy

[Greg Moss]

Waterboy Dave is in Tenn. His e-mail is [email protected] Phone is 1-865-984-1845 He really is the sleeve guy. He does good work for a fair price.

[Dave@DunnWright]

I would like to do your sleeving but if you are going to try yourself I have a crap load of 2.4 200 hp sleeves I will cut you a deal on. I have standard and all oversizes. US1 had some excellent tips on sleeving but be forewarned it is not the easiest thing to do. Boring the finished sleeve without taper is difficult in the blind hole. I have spent 12 years perfecting my process and learn new twists to the process every time I sleeve a block. My e-mail is [email protected]. Good luck.

[mercrazy]

waterboy, i was talking to you but it sounds like you better be saving your money to buy diapers instead of EFI's. i was only interested in the blown engine and it's hard to trade over long distance. you would probably be better off selling to the local.