2.4, 200, carb

[hydro-cat]

Okay. This a 89 200, 2.4. Just put all new pistons and 2 steel sleeves. Engine is on the back of a 89 Champion 201. Sits kind of low in the water. Engine has wh-39 carbs. Idle air bleeds are .054 and mains are .080 except for 2 & 5 which are .082. I've drilled the exhaust reliefs thru the exhaust hsng and liner.
The engine will idle okay but, seems to load up pretty easy. When you nail the throttle it's just very blubbery until you get to about 2300-2500 rpm's. Engine runs good on top end, just having trouble getting on plane. I've run different props, jack plate heights. Stator voltages are good, switch boxes have good voltages. KV meter reads good at the plugs. The timing does not fluctuate any. Carbs have been gone into and double checked (float heights, leaking inlet needls). Hve checked the recirc system, new hoses and some check valves. This customer has had this problem for quite some time, even before the engine blew. Engine is making plenty of heat. Some how I still think its in the carbs.

ANY NEW IDEAS?!!!!!!!

[Hank W]

reeds?

[Talon2.5]

you sound like you know what your doing so i'm just gonna "think out loud" here, maybe something will help?................

pull the cowl leave the motor off (not running) and have someone stab the throttle (quickly) and keep an eye on the trigger and see if it fully advances without sticking, sometimes the trigger can get "sticky" and advance slower than it should, then check to see while it's at full throttle if the butterflys are wide open and even

put it back in nuetral and check the butterflys to see if they are all closed evenly, they should be cracked open at the bottom just a hair barely off touching the bottom of the carb throat

check the distance between the roller and the throttle cam at idle it should have about a 16th to 1/8th inch distance between the roller and the cam

check the idle timing and max timing to be sure they are where they should be according to the manual for that motor, in some instances when having relieved exhaust it's better to have the idle timing a bit higher (2 degrees or so) than what the manual calls for

be sure you have no cracked bleed lines, check for bad check valves allowing too much fuel to transfer from the cylinder through the lines into the intake (they should only work to pull fuel from the intake) if a check valve is bad it may be putting unburned fuel into the intake causing extra fuel to go through the carb at an idle causing it to idle fat and when ya stab it the extra fuel chokes it down and it takes a bit for it to burn it off and come to life ( i know you said you did this, just thinking out loud here)

idle jets are "air" jets the bigger the number the more air it lets in on idle, if it's loading up and stumbling outa the hole and leaves a hell of a smoke cloud taking off you may have to go up on air jet size for more air than fuel at an idle (be shure check valves are working properly) in some instances the bog is because the idle jets are too big and it's not getting enough fuel, the chart i have on the bridgeport and mod VP and XR2 show smaller idle jet numbers, 46's on bridgeport and mod VP the Xr2 shows 44's, i kow those arent the motor you have but just thinking out loud

adjusting the idle timing higher may be the key, i have always done mine where the "motor likes it" rather than what the manual says but thats just my personal preference

possible dripping enrichener also (choke)

just some thoughts for ya
skip

[VectorPat]

If its sitting low in the water, that could be a problem also...