transom repair

[yamahadog]

I have a hydrostream vector, which has a bad transom on it, my questions are this, what is the best way to do it, take the whole cap off, or cut the cap at the tip of the "wings" on the back of the boat? also will it handle a 225 evinrude? thanks alot

[jamoore]

No expert here but I had a similar issue with my Mirage. No access to get to the transom without doing something. I elected to cut the back of the boat as opposed to trying to remove the whole top. Taking the whole deck off would give great access and make it easier to do the repair. Too many other issues for me to think about popping the whole deck off. May work better for you. Also depends on what else you are doing or going to do.

I got my transom in and am ready to put the back deck on again. I have a thread here you can look at called "Mirage Transom Repair". Others have posted their projects here and I know there is at least one on the Hydrostream board. I don't have my latest pictures up yet but you will get the idea.

Good luck and post pictures as you go.

Joey

[Superdave]

Here's a link to transom replacement on my bassboat. They're a little misorganized, but it shows a few problems I had and it turned out great.
transom (http://briefcase.yahoo.com/superdave37076)
Dave

[thovind1]

Jamoore, or someone else...I'm doing massive homework on this so that I can maybe tackle it next month or so (transom repair, that is). How exactly do you bond the top back on after you finish the transom, if you choose to cut it? If you don't choose to cut it, what is involved in taking the entire top off? I really need to take the entire top off, because whoever carpeted the boat last placed one big piece of carpet on the bottom of the boat without the top on it, then placed the top over the carpet...to get at all the rotten carpet up, I've got to get underneath the top anyway. But I'm going with limited means, here...I've got no garage. May be better just to find a garage to use, as I'll have to figure out some way to store the motor while I'm working. Any help would be awesome.

[MarkHP]

Check out http://www.hydrostream.org/ArticleArchives/AzisTransom.htm

this details one such repair. There are other 'feature articles' discussing repair and such that might be usefull.

[175checkmate]

I split the top and bottom half when I did my transom. Glad I did, made life a little better. My rub rail rubber was still soft. It slid out with out to much trouble. Then I drilled out the 178 rivits holding the rub rail on and the 2 halfs to gether. After loosing all the sealent that was holding the rest, the 2 halves seperated. I then slid the top half forward giving me access to the transom.
One thing that I did that I should not have done was cut the outter skin on the transom off. Yes it made it easer to get all the rotted wood out. But it added a bunch of time when I was putting it all back together.
Good luck to you both and ask questions. There is a ton of information here. Just ask.

I would not have attempted my rebuid if it wasent for the great people on this board.

[thovind1]

It feels good to know that this board is here to help with it. I'd never even dream of thinking about tackling this without you all.

Ok...I now know how to get the cap off...is it a chore to get it back on? Someone else mentioned that I might wanna check and see if I can even find new rubber before I attempt it. And what do you use to replace the sealant between the two halves?

Again, I gotta say thanks to all of you guys...never met an easier bunch of guys to deal with. You all really make a newbie feel like home.

[Ronny Jetmore]

go to westsystem.com and they can help ya. also, i would cut the outside off of the transom, dig out the old wood and put back pieces of wood instead of whole sheets. the west system repair guide explains this. if you use west system epoxy, even though you are using small pieces of wood instead of whole pieces, it will be stronger than factory. my two cents, ronny

[Bob T]

If you cut the transom off you need to try to preserve the 'skin' and bond it back on once you replace the wood.You bond it back on using standard bonding techniques i.e with cloth ,overlapping it from the skin you cut off ,onto the rest of the boat.Then of course, you have to make it look decent which will mean a lots of 'body work 'sanding filling,sanding.filingsanding......and then a paint job too.Thanks but I'll pass...I've done 2 by removing the deck.The first time it scared the hell out of me...I spent days climbing in ,out ,around and under,looking,wondering and worring.I'd never fiberglassed any thing to speak of before.The project took about 2weeks.That was 2 years ago and the transom is still perfect.The 2nd boat took 2 days,start to finish even though it was a tougher job.Do youself a favor...spend an hour looking real hard at how your boat is constucted before you decide.Splitting the deck from the hull may seem intimidating but it really isn't a big deal AND it doesn't mess with the structural integrity of the hull.If you go back to the thread where I talked about the rub rail I also mentioned a book.Get it and you'll have all the information you''ll need.BT The stuf between the deck and the hull is bedding compound..talk to the guy where you get your glassing supplies.

[sho305]

I would also recommend splitting it after doing one from the outside. When you put the skin back on you have to glass, then fill all the cuts. Major pain! Look at my bayliner transom post from about a year ago. This transom was only in the center, so I would cut the well out if I did another, and only have the two well seams to fix due to how the hull connects in the dash and bow area(hard to get apart). However, most good hulls have the transom wood all the way across and this will not work as well. There is a chance that you may find other damage in there as well, and it will be much easier to fix split.

[Racemore]

They are the hardest to split because they fill and glass it together and then it has to slide back from under the rubrail.A pain in the ass for sho.I think the best quick fix is to cut the splashwell out below the turn down edge.When you replace it you can match the gel with paint and it's hardly noticable.I do it with gelcoat on solid colors or black it out.Some opt to fill in the splashwell all together.:cool: