Help - Here's am easy Q

[fantastixvoyage]

My problem is a constant beeping (once every 3 seconds or so) when key is turned on. I know its simple yet can't seem to find the answer. I think its oil related per manual. I had the linkage, carbs and intake off. Believe linkage to oil pump is on correct. Any suggestion? I leave for the lake in two days and really need to figure this one out!!!

[Jeff_G]

What motor?

[fantastixvoyage]

I guess that would help.

It is a '95 Merc 3.0L 225hp Carb, but I believe the same system is used on all V6's.

The horn seems to be tied into the oil system. I checked wiring for shorts and checked oil pump linkage but I don't beleive it is seperately adjustable from throttle. need other suggestions and ideas of what to try next.

Does low battery tie into this at all? Just a thought.

[Jeff_G]

That motor has a low oil module, look for a light blue wire and check it. There is a clear hose coming from the oil output, is there air or oil in it. You may have a air block in the line somewhere if it was disconnected. Check your tank to see if the float is stuck. You do have oil in the tank don't you?

[fantastixvoyage]

Yes I do have oil in both tanks. I have become a firm believer in the KISS procedures. That's Keep It Simple Stupid!

I will check all the wires related to the warning tonight. I quess the temp sensor is also tied into the warning as well as oil. And if any of the sensors are bad it will trigger the sound. As mentioned, I had the intake, carbs and linkage off.

[Liqui-Fly]

The float in the cap on the motor, there is a motion sensor on the oil pump drive, and the other is an overheat which is usually on the heads but I'm not sure about a 3 liter. The stuff you had off should not effect anything unless you loosened up a wire and didn't know it.

David

[fantastixvoyage]

I think I can throw out overheating since I only fired it up for a second before I heard the beeping, then shut it off quick. It will keep beeping as soon as the key is in the run position. I will check the other things for sure. Thanks.

Anyone else got ideas?

[Liqui-Fly]

If the sensor is bad it will beep. I think they work off grounding to the block so if there is corrosion that might make it go off. The beep pattern represents a particular mafunction also. I haven't had an oil injected motor for a while so I don't remeber what they are. I think they were steady tone, a beep beep a beep.

David

[Liqui-Fly]

If a sensor goes bad it should set off a warning otherwise you'd be driving around with a bad sensor and have no idea about the parameter it was supposed to protect.

David

[fantastixvoyage]

If there are different patterns to the beep mine is one beep every 2-3 seconds. Its funny you mentioned grounding. I was just looking in the manual to see if they used any of the intake bolts as attachment for ground wires that I may have missed. No luck yet. Thanks for the input so far, I have been working on my motor all week to get everything squared away for the weekend.

[Liqui-Fly]

Mix oil in the gas and disconnect the horn . No sense in ruining a weekend because of a bad sensor. Unless of course it has one of those rev limiters incorporated into the module. My brother has a 97 225 3 liter and a tech manual but he's gone for the week; I wish I had the manual so I could tell you for sure. A lot of guys will read this tonight......someone will know for sure.

David

[fantastixvoyage]

I've been thinking of doing that, I don't like trusting the injection system. Is it as simple as removing the linkage to the oil pump and blocking the tank?

Does the fuel and oil seperate when in storage? I'm lucky if I use the boat once a month.

I had a 200hp merc that had work done and had to mix the fuel. I don't boat often enough to really mind the hassle. I'll be doing good if I put 4 tank fulls in before the end of the season.

[Liqui-Fly]

You can gut the entire drive system and block off the drive gear hole. I'm not sure exactly with your motor how the fuel pump works but on the older ones it mixed the fuel and oil at the mechanical pump. There were some holes in the block that allowed crankcase pressure to drive the pump diaphrams... But you can simply disconnect all of the electronics and put oil in the gas. It does not separate. Wait to see what the 3 liter gurus say tonight and make you decision then.

David

[fantastixvoyage]

Thanks for all your help liqui-fly. I tried for awhile to locate the source of the problem and finally said forget it and clipped a wire to get it to shut-up. It felt like de-activating a bomb and I hope my motor isn't the bomb!:(

I spent a good hour adjusting linkages and even found the throttle postion sensor to be out of adjustment. The motor sounds better than ever. I'll still mix oil and disconnect pump to be sure. Nothing like making last minute "adjustments" at the campground!!!! Have a great holiday!!

[Liqui-Fly]

Keep an eye on your water pressure and you should be good. I was worried about a rev limiter kicking in but it sounds like you're ok.

David

[fantastixvoyage]

Got any idea what "good" water pressure is? It changes given rpm, correct? I forget what the guage was reading but it had good flow out the pisser in back. What can you do to vary the water pressure?

[Liqui-Fly]

Before there is no reason to berlieve it isn'ty good now. You just need to pay extra close attention now because your overheat alarm is disabeled. Any where from 10 to 25 is good wide open. There are things you can do with your thermostats..like remove them ect ect. Search this web site for thermostats, washers, and water pressure and you'll find a wealth of ideas.

David