Picked up 3 V6 Mercs today... For parts?

[skialot2]

I picked up 3 V6 Merc outboards today. I thought they were all for parts. $200 each

The first one is a 1991 150 XR4. It has 1 bad cylinder. Unfortunately, it does not have the small bullet 1.78 lower. I am very disappointed about that. But it did come with a 5 blade prop.
533828 533830

The second one is a 1995 150. The guy sold it for parts. But as we were loading it in my truck, he said it was a spare motor that had not been used in years but was running good when put away. He was pretty sure it was prepped for storage too. It should be fine. Came with a 3 blade stainless prop, Binnacle controls and the main harness, the oil injection tank filled with oil. Also came with all the original installation and owners manuals. And a Clymer shop manual
533832

The third motor is a 2001? 135 Optimax. Also sold for parts. But again while loading it up, I was told it was running fine but the steering arm is rusted out. The tiller arm is almost gone. It came with side mount controls, harness, oil tank with bracket and hoses.

533834

I am going to do some testing. Maybe, with some minor repairs, I will end up with a couple of good motors.

[Sutphil]

Nice haul.

[rock]

I would have done that. Good deal.

Rock

[skialot2]

I went to do a compression check on these motors. I started with the Optimax. I connected the battery. Plugged in my test harness. Turned the key to see if it would spin. Let it spin to see if I heard any noises. It fired up with no fuel connected. Ran for a few seconds before I shut it off. Compression checks good. No more then 7 lbs. difference between cylinders. Now I am going to finish rigging it up so I can let it run it on the stand to make sure it's good. Then I will take it apart to change the tiller. The worst I have ever seen.
533847


The 150 Carb motor was definitely set up for storage. Everything is covered in grease. Compression is within 5psi. Hooked up the battery, test harness and fuel. It started right up. idol is a little high but runs great. Needs a water pump before I can really let it run and adjust it.


https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Vb0ESFSEHjk

[skialot2]

Powerhead is seized on the XR4. Pulled the head. Worst piston I have ever seen. Sleeve is cracked through the aluminum. Block is junk.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gagLlJKiOKg


This is a water cooled regulator motor. I have a 2.4 200 powerhead with a water cooled regulator sitting in my garage. I think I am just going to drop on that powerhead.

[Greg G]

Damn boy, if you keep on talking about actual boat stuff on this site you may get a whoopin :cheers:

[rock]

I have had Mr Perry fix one like that before.

Rock

[skialot2]

Damn boy, if you keep on talking about actual boat stuff on this site you may get a whoopin :cheers:

Wont catch me talking political ****. Two old men trying to ruin the country.

[skialot2]

I have had Mr Perry fix one like that before.

Rock


Anything can be fixed. But it not worth it when the cost exceeds the value.

[skialot2]

Well, I just couldn't help myself. I picked up another motor. $150. Boat sank. They said water only made it in the bottom carb. Powerhead is locked. But, the electronics should still be good... Maybe. 20" mid, trim and lower unit are good.

533892

[Aaronhl]

Guess im not the only one picking up old Merc junk for nothing

[LakeFever]

I keep buying up parts motors too. Just got another 96 200 efi. It’s better to be looking at it than looking for it. Plus it’s good fun to build and you can’t build what you don’t have

[Wayne Cammidge]

Put the Opti Powerhead on the Mid-section off that sunk motor
Much easier than trying to change out that Tiller arm
Just need to drill and Tap 2 1/8NPT holes in the adaptor plate, if you do not want to change that over as well

[skialot2]

Well, this XR4 continues to disappoint. I pulled the lower unit hoping it was at least a 1.87 ratio. Nope. It's a 2.0 ratio. To top it all off, it's a preload pin lower unit. 533981 At least it seems to be in good working condition. The trim also works and doesn't bleed down.

[VkingMike]

With 150-200hp 2 strokes, I do not believe you can have too many or too many spare parts lol

[LakeFever]

Considering the age and how we run these things it’s a good plan to build a clone fresh spare power head and keep it at the ready. I say clone so the tuning remains the same and going from dead to up and running is a one day affair. My plan is to build the clone this winter. The other four who knows what I’ll do lol probably build one ported to the hilt made for race gas just for fun

[skialot2]

I took apart this last motor that had sank. It came apart very easily. Every bolt came out easy. All 4 long powerhead studs unscrewed from the powerhead instead of the nuts coming off. No salt buildup at all. The crank and bearings are all junk. The pistons pushed out of the cylinders pretty easy. All the cylinder bores look good. I can save the block. Next time I get a motor with a bad cylinder but a good crank and rods, I will switch the internals.

This motor came with the elusive ratcheting gears with the anode and not exhaust vents. If it's the original lower unit, according to the parts catalog it is a big bearing. Too bad it's a 2.0 ratio, not a 1.87.

[skialot2]

I rigged up the Optimax with a remote oil tank. Used some compressed air to fill the onboard oil tank until it overflowed. Then I turned the key on. Then shifted it back and forth from neutral to forward 3 or 4 times to make the oil pump prime and go into break in mode. Turned the key on and off 3 times to cycle the fuel pump. Cranked it over and it started for 1 second and stalled. Turned the key again and it started, revved up for a second, then idled perfectly. Sounds strong when you rev it up. Runs good.


https://youtube.com/shorts/ddltqhFiDOA?si=KYmSSbkTq0uEs0bv

[skialot2]

Took the lower unit off the running 150 to put a new water pump in it. I noticed the nuts from the lower mount bolts have disintegrated. I went to check the top bolts and couldn't find any. Somebody covered the entire tiller with Bondo.
534150

I pried under it and it basically all came off in 2 pieces

534151

Some if it about a 1/2 inch thick.

534152

The tiller is rusty. and the bolt heads are not perfect, but not really bad either. The snap ring is still good on the bottom.

534154



534153

[LakeFever]

When you think you’ve seen it all

[skialot2]

Well, I couldn't help myself. I bought another parts motor. $120. It is missing the heads, and the powerhead is locked 534272 I was told it was a 150. That is what the side covers he gave me say. Nope. It's an early chrome bore 200. 534273 And it says 250HP on the spline. 534281 Maybe it has some Hi performance stuff done to it. It's got head studs. 534282 It's got a single piston trim clamp 534274 It also has a 1 piece adaptor plate and a cut poppet cover. 534275 A land and sea exhaust (frozen/cracked)534276 Has a whale tail hydrofoil thingy 534278 And a what looks like a bobs nose cone that needs a wee bit of bodywork. Looks like it had a torque fin, but its gone. 534277 I pulled the lower unit. It's a 1.87. It is not a preload pin. :) It feels ok except there seems to be a problem with the reverse detent. It falls back to neutral without even turning the shafts. But if you hold it in gear, it feels good, and you get a good solid ratchet. Forward works fine. The tops of the pistons look OK. At least on the parts of the cylinders I can see, the chrome in the cylinders still looks pretty good. 534279 I don't see many scuff marks at all. Nothing that catches my fingernail. I am going to try to take it apart and see if I can save the block. I can wiggle the pistons slightly, so they should come out easily.

[OnPad]

Nice patina on that one!:cheers:

[tlwjkw]

vertical or horizontal front?.. can't really tell in tha pic....

[skialot2]

vertical or horizontal front?.. can't really tell in tha pic....


Horizontal reeds. The numbers under the throttle arm show a production date of 12/16/86. So, it's a 1987. 534297 Both block halves are marked 468 so they are matching. I also see a U on the back half. Whatever that means.

1987 motors serial numbers should start with a B. So, this is not the original powerhead. Clamp has serial number 5611262 534296

[skialot2]

It also came with this front cover. 534298 Anyone have an idea what motor it's from

[tlwjkw]

It also came with this front cover. 534298 Anyone have an idea what motor it's from

no tellin'... decals don't mean nothin' anymore!..

all still chrome?

[Aaronhl]

Cmon guy u gotta stop buying the engines I want off Marketplace !!

[skialot2]

Well I took the powerhead off this corroded ass saltwater motor. Only one long stud was a little stuck. Got it loose with 2 minutes of heat. No damage to the block or plate. Took the powerhead apart. Unbelievably, all the bolts came out without breaking. 4 pistons basically fell out of the cylinders after I pulled the rod caps. The 5th one I had to push a little. 534306 I think I found out why the heads were off. 534309 Not a sleeve, just looks like it in the pic. It's not magnetic. None of the cylinders are magnetic. The last piston was stuck. Sprayed it with WD-40 and had to tap it with a block to get it out. 534307 Nothing really wrong with the piston except water damage. Looks like the water also caused corrosion under the chrome. looks like bubbles in the chrome. 534308 Hard to see in the picture but there is a bunch of bubble spots and some pitted spots where the chrome has flaked off. Needs at least 2 maybe 3 sleeves. Block is not worth saving. Crank is shot too. 534310

[skialot2]

I chipped off all the loose filler on this nose coned lower unit. Basically, all of it came off. The cone itself is on solid. I tried to get it off. No chance of getting it off without destroying it. 5 minutes with a wire wheel on a drill and all that salty corrosion is pretty much gone. Except for the chip in the skeg there is nothing wrong with the case. I think I am going to put a water pump on it and install it the way it is. Then, if it works good, go for a ride, get it hot a few times. Then try to get it open to fix the reverse detent. They seem to open up easier if they have been used recently. 534617 534618534619

[skialot2]

Well, I compared the way this nosecone lower unit shifts with others I have, and, except for the preload pin lower that came with the XR4, they all shift the same way. The preload pin unit wont shift to reverse at all. That motor continues to disappoint. But there is nothing wrong with this lower unit, so I put it on my motor. Took a hammer and a block of wood and tried to knock off the nosecone. Nope, solid as a rock. Put the boat in. Went for a ride. Drove around for 20 minutes. Works great. Stopped and sat for 15 minutes. Went for another ride. After 2 minutes, lost water pressure. 3 or 4 seconds later overheat alarm went off. Backed off throttle to idle and clicked off key at around 40 mph. Nosecone gone. Stupid me. Had to get towed in. The first guy that drove by stopped and towed me 20 minutes back to the ramp. He didn't want to take any money, but I made him take $50

534934 So now I have this lower unit that has been drilled and filled. I could get a new nosecone and weld it on. Or because I am really not going fast enough for a nose cone, I could use a transom mounted water pickup. I happen to have a Bobs in stock. 534935 Maybe I will even pick up a couple MPH and break 70.

[Aaronhl]

Picked up this one today for $250 -gonna need a lot of work- it did come with full cowl and lower unit…25” not ideal but can work with it may cut it down, gonna need some paint, re-wiring and maybe the hardest part some welding to fill gaps the last guy made prying up on the bottom of the powerhead while trying to pull it, good thing is I have some spare exhaust plates…

Best I can tell it is a 1990 "A" Block which seems like a 1991 Mercury 150hp by serial number...

He said the compression is all mid 90s but ya Ill check that

https://i.imgur.com/iwod0UL.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/SbYxR9z.jpg

[skialot2]

Nice! If the compression is all equal, hopefully they just used a gauge that reads low. A Harbor Freight gauge that reads 95 could really be 115-120.
That looks like a 20 mid with an extension housing on it. Like one of these. 534999 You should be able to just knock it off.

[Aaronhl]

Nice! If the compression is all equal, hopefully they just used a gauge that reads low. A Harbor Freight gauge that reads 95 could really be 115-120.
That looks like a 20 mid with an extension housing on it. Like one of these. 534999 You should be able to just knock it off.

Exactly... some are harder to hammer off, then I need to cut the water tube down, get a 20" shift shaft and two shorter studs for the mid section then itll b ready for a 20" lower unit

The head gaskets look a little strange so might take the heads off see whats going on there, that might help with the compression too

[Aaronhl]

This is a 90s powerhead on an 80s mid section (by serial numbers) so one questions I have is what different between the exhaust plates...the older on has the plastic fitting on the port side like the picture above, and the newer version has the brass fitting in the back of the engine...

It doesnt appears u can mix and match the two plates, but as long as you have two from the "same year", could any powerhead drop on that? if that makes sense...

[skialot2]

Here are 2 sets of plates. 1 is for late 80's 2.0, 2.4 motors. The other is for a mid 90's 2.0, 2.5 motors. You definitely cannot mix and match them. It looks like you can drop all but the very early powerheads on any matched set of plates as long as the exhaust ports match. But I am not sure, and I would not want to try and find out the answer is no the hard way. The correct plates are easy to get and not that expensive.

535000 535001 535002

[tlwjkw]

1991.... wmh's have acc. pumps

ya might wanna replace tha adapter plates anyway.. top plate, port side has been drilled... probably ta get to a stuck stud............

[Aaronhl]

1991.... wmh's have acc. pumps

ya might wanna replace tha adapter plates anyway.. top plate, port side has been drilled... probably ta get to a stuck stud............

yup it’s got WMH#7 pumpers

yes i need to replace the upper plate, bottom plate looks ok on first look pulled the powerhead today,

might use this mid for a 2.4 200 I got ready to drop on…then once I get the beat up 150 that I just pulled off maybe put that back on a different 25” n sell it we’ll see

[Aaronhl]

thanks for posting do I got gotta dig up some greasy plate n put the on the bench myself…the insides of the plate are different but the driveshaft housing side and powerhead side seem to be the same once you sandwich them together…????….


Here are 2 sets of plates. 1 is for late 80's 2.0, 2.4 motors. The other is for a mid 90's 2.0, 2.5 motors. You definitely cannot mix and match them. It looks like you can drop all but the very early powerheads on any matched set of plates as long as the exhaust ports match. But I am not sure, and I would not want to try and find out the answer is no the hard way. The correct plates are easy to get and not that expensive.

535000 535001 535002

[OnPad]

Ive always heard to use the correct plates for the block, but after looking at Ski's post. Pretty sure that the late model 2.4 stuff is interchangeable with 2.0/2.5 block. Never tried running that configuration, but a 2.5 gasket fits fine on a late 2.4 plate. Looks like there's a little different cooling around the exhaust ports, and probably wouldn't want to mismatch upper and lower plate. If that makes sense??
You should try it, and tell us how it works.:)

[skialot2]

The powerhead sides are a little different. There is a water passage on the side of the exhaust on the 2.5 style bracket. I don't know if it makes a difference or not. The driveshaft sides are all the same. Just the tuners are different.535019

[tlwjkw]

they will all work on any of 'em as long as you have tha "matchin' pieces.. tha biggest difference is tha 2.4 exhaust holes.. they are smaller than tha 2.0 and 2.5.. some do a little grindin' ta match as close as possible but if ya use tha metal infused power head gasket for tha larger size it will last quite a while.. smaller holes do not show any noticeable performance difference.. tha tuner will be more noticeable.... jmo.

[skialot2]

535025 One gasket has an extra hole, and the exhaust ports are bigger. 535026 I still don't think it really matters.

[OnPad]

A bunch of my 2.5's, and a late model 2.0 I own had the smaller exhaust ports. Exactly the same size as a late 2.4,... before I open em up with a grinder. Not for sure, but I think that gasket you have with the big ports is for high performance blocks. I ordered one of those gaskets on accident, and use it as a template for porting. Usually don't grind all the way to the line, as the block gets pretty thin, and they like to crack in the corners.

[Aaronhl]

I wanted to keep posting in this thread cuz I like how we pickup merc trash and sort through it, I got the powerhead pulled off was easy ciz the last guys did it for me...and I will need to weld the "screw driver" gaps he put in the bottom of the block

good news -to me- is that the compression numbers cold are all about 95-105 not ideal but i know it will run ok, might take a look at the walls if i pull the heads off and put in new head gaskets,

as far as the remaining mid section parts, seems like power trim unit it in good condition, the swivel yoke is too loose so gonna get a new swivel arm, and a few touch ups to the driveshaft housing

I believe I am going to put a 200 2.4 1984 or so on the mid section, and I have a nice "Mariner" mid and cowl setup I will use the 150 for

sounds confusing huh yea i got a bunch of merc projects !!

https://i.imgur.com/0zxvWm0.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/6QxyovA.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/XGigJTs.jpg

[skialot2]

Not for sure, but I think that gasket you have with the big ports is for high performance blocks.


After doing some more research, the gasket with the bigger ports and the extra hole is only used on the 2.4 style 2.0 135-150HP motors. All the actual 2.4 175's and 200's motors, and all the 2.5's use the gasket with the smaller exhaust ports. What's weird is all the blocks I have that call for the gasket with the bigger ports, have ports the smaller gasket fits perfectly.

[OnPad]

Think someone posted a picture awhile back of a old 2 litre that had the bigger ports, that would work with that gasket. About the time you think you know something, mother Merc throws a curve ball at ya.
After the tuner broke off my 2.5, I found out that Bob's tuner is built for the larger ports, and requires a bunch of grinding if port matching the small opening plates.

Funny what crosses over, and doesn't between the different generations. The other day I tried a 2.4 exhaust divider on a 2.5 cdm engine,...no go.
Guess I'm going to have to fab up a coil bracket like LakeFever did for his engine.

[LakeFever]

Yeah I tried the 2.4 rear cover first too. Well, I unbolted it from a motor and soon as I saw its some two piece weird I knew it wasn’t gonna work. To make the template for the bracket I made I took the 2.4 cover and taped a piece of bristol board to it and using a hammer I tapped on all the bosses to make impressions on the board. This was how I made the hole layout. It was pretty good, although I had to drill a few over size to not bind on the bolts. You can sorta see in the pics I posted where I did that.

[skialot2]

Yeah I tried the 2.4 rear cover first too. Well, I unbolted it from a motor and soon as I saw its some two piece weird I knew it wasn’t gonna work. To make the template for the bracket I made I took the 2.4 cover and taped a piece of bristol board to it and using a hammer I tapped on all the bosses to make impressions on the board. This was how I made the hole layout. It was pretty good, although I had to drill a few over size to not bind on the bolts. You can sorta see in the pics I posted where I did that.


Think someone posted a picture awhile back of a old 2 litre that had the bigger ports, that would work with that gasket. About the time you think you know something, mother Merc throws a curve ball at ya.
After the tuner broke off my 2.5, I found out that Bob's tuner is built for the larger ports, and requires a bunch of grinding if port matching the small opening plates.

Funny what crosses over, and doesn't between the different generations. The other day I tried a 2.4 exhaust divider on a 2.5 cdm engine,...no go.
Guess I'm going to have to fab up a coil bracket like LakeFever did for his engine.

The 2.4 exhaust divider will not fit on the 2.5 motors. The bolt pattern is different. But you can use the exhaust divider from a 2.5 style block with CD ignition on a 2.5 block with CDM ignition. My 2000 2.5 200 had CDM ignition. I converted it to CD ignition by using the exhaust divider from a 1998 2.0 150. I think they started using 2.5 style blocks around 1991 and started using CDM ignition around 1999 or 2000 So any V6 exhaust plate from 1992-1998 should work.

[skialot2]

I bought another V6 Merc today. This one is a 2001 200 EFI. $500. My first non Optimax EFI. I got it from a guy that said it came on a boat he bought. He said he never tried to start it because he was told it has low compression in one cylinder. But it supposed to run. Hopefully I will be able to pull it apart and just fix the one cylinder. If not maybe I will take the EFI system off it and put it on my freshly rebuilt 2000 200 carb motor.

535991 535992
535993 535994

[skialot2]

I set this motor up to check it out. Figure out which is the bad cylinder and see how bad it is. The guy said he was told it ran but was down to about 70PSI in one cylinder. Used a bore scope on all 6 cylinders. I didn't see any problems so I did a compression check. With my cheap ass gauge that I believe reads about 15-20 psi less than actual, I get 112psi for the highest compression and 108 for the lowest compression reading. Only 4 psi from the highest to the lowest. I hooked up a fuel tank and started it up. It could probably use a link and sync. But it seems to run fine. I have been told a motor was good when it is not. But this is the first time I have been told a motor is bad when it is not. Why would anyone say there was a bad cylinder when there is not?


https://www.youtube.com/shorts/WyEl3_rhn3E