Project - Ultimate Gambler

[NeedOne]

Figured I would start a project thread...
1991 Gambler Intimdator Dale Earnhardt edition
1998 Merc 200 efi

Project started actually 10 years ago when I first bought the boat.... it was in rough shape, very faded, hull torn up, had a horrible fish finder screwed on top the drivers console.. crusty v140..it was rough

I Did a restoration over that first fall/winter, fixed numerous chips on hull running surface, wet sanded and buffed the whole thing, stripped all hardware and bogus wiring, rigged the merc and basically ran it like that till now.

I realized it had water intrusion last couple years, and it really hit a tipping point where it's either run it into the ground or make it right.

So I set out fall 2023 to get it going. I'll make a few posts to show progress up to current.

Making this thread for motivation and accountability, and to give back to Scream and Fly

[NeedOne]

It will look about the same when it's done which is crazy but it will be in it's ultimate form.. or my vision of that I guess... the goal is to have it stripped light as possible, no trolling motor, liner totally sealed out, no points of intrusion at all, top cap bonded to hull, no rivets or screws. Main thing is ditch the fuel tank for an aluminum cell, and re-engineer how it mounts. Bad factory design with huge heavy tank, caused liner to Crack and take on water

Motor is good to go, it has ccms reeds and stuffers, 32cc heads, timing 24 deg, 260 exhaust divider, run 93 rec fuel Pushed this bathtub full of water to 70mph last time out used to see 76 in it's prime

[NeedOne]

First thing was I had to get the barn door widened to fit the boat.. it was a foot shy of course. Made sure it'll be able to fit a 22 cat someday.

Had the joists all redone in 2x12 free spanned so no columns. Had them tripled up in 2 locations, to support traversing hoists.

That was a great day backing the boat in

[NeedOne]

Lots of detailed grinding work over last few weeks. Plan was to cut out rear 1/3 of liner for a few reasons
A) didn't think it would be wet forward of there
B) that cut line and subsequent glasswork is all hidden by the top cap

I ground it down to substrate before cutting it out, figuring that would be easiest route. The liner was paper thin in some areas so I laid some csm to reinforce it for removal. That did prove to be necessary, but also counter productive in that it glued it down to the foam, requiring some serious prying and pulling

[rock]

Lot of work but in the end it will all be worth it.

Rock

[NeedOne]

Thanks Rock,

That's what I'm hoping.. Its always run very stable and quick, I can't wait to see what it will do. Just gotta get over the teardown hump.....

[NeedOne]

Back portion of liner is out as of today.
Whole rest of the liner needs removed, the entire thing is saturated. Which I suppose is good news, going to take out a ton of weight.

... the aroma of wet foam... holy smokes

[motexas]

Good Lick, as Rock said lots of work, but will be Awesome when completed. Look forward to seeing the work and finished product.

MO

[OnPad]

Interesting to see how Gambler built their boats. Looks well thought out, and very strong!!

Thanks for posting your project.

[NeedOne]

Thanks Onpad, yeah it really is solid.. unfortunate the few design misses were of the leaking variety. But it's all good, I've had so much fun in this boat.

[NeedOne]

Designed this new skid planer for the jack plate, based off some pics on S&F,, 10 ga. SST. If anyone wants the print I can provide it, fits 10" setback hydrodynamics rapidjack (16 in. Inside the mounting flange)

[Instigator]

Always liked those boats!

Will be a cool classic when done.

Thx for sharing.

[NeedOne]

Always liked those boats!

Will be a cool classic when done.

Thx for sharing.
Thanks I appreciate it! Project really snowballed with entire foam being wet and needing to pull the whole liner... no going back now .. gotta get motivated again and get thru teardown

[NeedOne]

Worked on some fun stuff over the weekend...
Disassembled jackplate, cleaned with goof off professional grade, then scotch Brite and vinegar/water 50/50. Then rubbing alcohol and cleared with UV stable clear laquer. Similar for hot foot... Sand blasted, tuned action & cleared.

I have wanted an offshore mid for a loooong time... got this nice ridgeback from a S&F member.

[Instigator]

Have Not read what you did if anything to support the hull?

With everything you’ve cut out of it that hall will now be as flimsy as a potato chip!

I have restored many, down to that level and that is an important step.

If you do it while sitting on the trailer you are assuming the bunks are straight and level
Which they almost certainly are not.

On a boat that size I normally build a jig, level and square it, bolt it to the floor of my shop, and then strap the hull to it.

If the jig is true, it is common for the boat to not sit flat on it, as in there is twist in from its years of use/abuse.

Many bypass the step with disastrous result. The faster it is the worst those effects will be.

[NeedOne]

Appreciate you raising the point, it is approaching the point of hull needing to sit in a jig.. The hull is actually really solid so far. Not flimsy at all.

The project has blown past every contingency it could.. whole foam being wet and now I am concerned stringers are going to need to be done..
The stringers are solid, pass a hammer test, and i cannot see any rot, but I think with how saturated the foam is, it must have gotten to the stringers. One thing I cannot tell is if it has a core.. it seems like solid glass, need to get the foam out and fully assess.

Adjusted plan is now:
Grind & Cut out remaining liner
Remove all foam
Assess stringers & core. if need replaced:
Build jig, set hull on jig

Any reference thread with pics you'd recommend for jig design? Thank you

[Instigator]

Yep

Keep cutting until all the wet is out or you’re wasting your time.

Here’s a test for the hull rigidity.

Easy test it to grab a corner at the transom and try to lift the hull off the trailer.

Watch the hull forward of you.

Try the other side.

If you don’t see it flexing, take a bottle Jack w/a block of wood and lift one of those same corners off the trailer.

As it it starts to lift, watch the opposite side.

If it don’t move, you have work to do ��

[NeedOne]

Well it passes the rigidity test as you describe instigator, nice simple test method, thank you.
But I still have concerns for it being wet... man i hope it doesnt need stringers and core.... will know soon

Prepped the cut line for the rest of the liner yesterday after work. The original bond line is not able to be cut loose(essentially splitting the rivet lip) so the cut will go about 2 inches inboard of that, on the flat. I ground up the lip and down the wall so when re-glassing the seam it will have an S-crossection, not just a narrow flat strip.

That has a dual purpose of backing & sealing the rivet holes on the inside too, then they can be filled from the outside

[NeedOne]

Remainder of the liner does not want to come out.. having to grind a lot more to prep for cutting along the top of the bulkhead/ footrest.

It is slow going due to back pain from a car wreck last fall.. can only do about 15 mins of grinding at a time... once the liner is out, project should speed up.

I've come to terms with doing the stringers, If it does end up needing replaced, will remove all wood and go full composite

[NeedOne]

I always liked how low the seating position is, gonna expand on that and make it like sitting in a sports car...

The oem hot foot position made it where your knee is bent up under the console. Since I have to cut the footrest now, going to create a recess and shift hotfoot mounting.

Going to have new seat bottoms made, 1" thick rather than current 2.5", get the seating max-low. Sounds minor but it is that close to being tucked behind the console or feeling like you're hanging out of it.

A final touch, probably after back on water.. want to make custom black lexan wind screens mounted to the grab rails, mocked after later model gamblers, but not as big, maybe 3 or 4 inches tall.