Need help with jackplate trouble shooting, parts CMC PL-65

[TraceF3]

I have a CMC PL-65 with a Cook DCH-2500 motor. I suddenly had a leak coming from where my finger is pointing in the picture. Now I have no movement.

I checked the relays and they're good. I searched for the motor replacement, but I can't find anything that looks like mine. I also searched for trouble shooting and installation but didn't find anything looking similar to what I have.

Is it complicated or am I just not finding what I need? It looks like there are several options as far as generic motors but the mount on this one is what I can't seem to find.

And how does it bleed or purge the fluid when you change it?

Anyone who can point me in the right direction will be appreciated.

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[TraceF3]

I think so David but as you can see from my pictures there is no clue I can see about removing it, and will the motor fit my mount, and where did the fluid come from, and do I need to remove the rigid metal lines going to the hydraulic cylinder?

These motors look like they go INTO a pump but I had fluid coming out of the motor. It actually looked like blue TCW3 but felt like hydraulic oil.

I guess what I really need is help with the changing of parts...

[David - WI]

I deleted that. I have one of these, I guess I never really looked at it that closely.

Apparently CMC still "supports" some of this stuff? https://www.cmcsales.com.au/faqs/

[donmac]

if you have oil coming out of that area I would assume the top pump seal is leaking and filling the cavity below motor plate and possibly motor with hyd. fluid.!if parts aren't available mounting an inboard style trim or tab pump and running a line to the cylinder might be a solution if you really want to keep that lift working
first thing i would do is pull top motor plate and examine brushs and holders for binding or burnt wiring, and try to rotate armature to see if pump or bearings seized!

[skialot2]

This looks like it might be the correct replacement part.


Amazon.com: ELM Products Compatible with CMC Motor Reservoir and Pump DCH 2500 PT130 : Automotive (https://www.amazon.com/Motor-Reservoir-Pump-2500-PT130/dp/B00WX1RVII)

[David - WI]

I think it's this one, but can't find any for sale:

533008

[TraceF3]

In part here's what I got from CMCpowertrimandtilt.com:

" Hi Trace, Youve had a good run out of that unit. That model hasn't been manufactured for the last 25 - 30 years, so no parts are available. I'm the Australian agent, only for the last 20 years, so had nothing to do with this model really. Sorry I can't help you. "

I guess my next option is an offshore type pump and reservoir. Any suggestions on the model?

Thank you

[David - WI]

Couldn't you make the ELM products one above work? It looks like it's externally mounted like the original?

[TraceF3]

Couldn't you make the ELM products one above work? It looks like it's externally mounted like the original?

I really have no idea. There is no obvious way to remove this one. I couldn't get any parts or instructional information from either contact.

If I start taking things apart and lose the pressure the jack will let the motor down. At least it's stuck where it runs good, almost all the way up. I'm reluctant to try and figure it out through experimentation.

I spoke to Wildman earlier today and he said really any of the remote pumps would work. The trick is getting compatible connections from the existing ram to the new pump.

I'm going to take pictures of mine and specs from one I pick out and go to my local hydraulic shop and start a conversation with him to see what he thinks.

There's also the issue of thru-hull connections. I know I have a new set of thru-hull fittings in my barn. I just need to find them :eek:

[donmac]

"DB Electric" they have one very similar for $200, mount looks close, simple bracket fab! just not sure if it's meant to be swimming!

[TraceF3]

OK I've found a remote pump and reservoir with 2 options: one is a 2-wire pump (green and blue) and the other is a 3-wire pump (green, blue, and black).

I called DB and asked their "tech" person what the difference is and they had no idea.

The existing pump is a 2-wire so I'm guessing that's what I need.

Any input?

[4Speed]

I wonder if the 3 wire reversing can be done with a simple switch like the old Land-n-Sea jackplates and the 2 wire requires the separate relays like the newer Land-n-Sea jackplates. Reason I knew is my original L&S jack had just a dash mounted toggle switch with a maze of wires connected to in and no relays. I wanted to add push buttons on the steering wheel and had to add the relays. I am sure someone else can confirm.

[4Speed]

My old L&S harness with the toggle switch, it had 3 wires; black, white & red going to the toggle.
533319
533320
533321

[TraceF3]

I'm gonna throw some mudd at the wall and see if it sticks. I ordered a 2-wire pump. I'm going to determine which wire is up and which is down and splice the existing plug from the dead motor on to them. I'm going to leave the relays, switch and gauge alone and hope it works as it should. I will need to have a couple hoses made up but I think I have the right guy for that. Might get lucky.

[TraceF3]

This weekend I removed the old external motor/pump. Disconnected the hydraulic lines to take them to the shop that's making the new lines, to match ends to the new pump and old ram.

After 48 hours only a few drips of fluid have come out of the ram even though it's about 80% up. I thought the motor weight would push the fluid out of the ram and the engine would drift down but it hasn't moved.

Any ideas on this? Ram trying to seize?

[OnPad]

Maybe the plate is in a bit of a bind? I have a manual plate that is on cable's, it wont drop unless I give the lower a little tug backwards. I've seen heavy machinery that has load locking valves in the hydraulic circuit, but doubt that a jackplate would be that complicated.

[David - WI]

Can't the "slide" bolts on those plates be overtightened... I had one power and one manual CMC plate; and I think the manual one gets "locked" by tightening those for side "slide/bearing" bolts?

[OnPad]

Can't the "slide" bolts on those plates be overtightened... I had one power and one manual CMC plate; and I think the manual one gets "locked" by tightening those for side "slide/bearing" bolts?

Yeah, 10-4. When I loosen the side bolts, and slack the cables on my manual plate, there's enough of a bind the engine won't drop unless I grab the lower and pull back. I was thinking the op might have the same thing going on, which might be a good thing, for the fact he doesn't have hydraulic oil all over his shop floor, or boat.

[TraceF3]

Can't the "slide" bolts on those plates be overtightened... I had one power and one manual CMC plate; and I think the manual one gets "locked" by tightening those for side "slide/bearing" bolts?

I'll check that. That could also overwork the motor/pump. I did run the tilt/trim in and out a few times to see if it made a difference and that did nothing.

Thanks!

[donmac]

the manual jackplates rely on the bolts to lock them in place after screwjack adjustment! power lift should have spacers on the bolts so they cant be tightened into a bind! if they've used teflon spacers you need to make sure there not worn out! transom angle and powerhead weight will affect the slide force required to lower by gravity!

[TraceF3]

the manual jackplates rely on the bolts to lock them in place after screwjack adjustment! power lift should have spacers on the bolts so they cant be tightened into a bind! if they've used teflon spacers you need to make sure there not worn out! transom angle and powerhead weight will affect the slide force required to lower by gravity!

Well it went up and down before the pump started to leak so I'm assuming they aren't too tight. Once I get the new lines and hook the new pump up I'll check the tightness of the 4 guide bolts.

Next issue is up and down. I know which wire on the new pump is up and which is down. And the orifices on the pump are marked. But there's nothing on the ram.

I have one hole high on the cylinder and one low near the bottom. I would ASSume the bottom one is up.

There are 2 wires coming from the dash. Up and down power right? How would I tell which is which. I don't know poo about 12v wiring.

Any thoughts?

[TraceF3]

I have resolved the problem. I bought a $250 trim/tilt motor from DB Electric. Connected it to the 2 wires that ran the old motor/pump that was on the side of the jack plate and it works. I went top shelf on the hydraulic lines with plastic coated braided SS with SS ends so they cost as much as the pump but it's still less than half what a new JP would cost.

I guess the old motor was really tired because it goes up and down 50% faster than it did before it quit. Or maybe the motor is more powerful. I hope the new one lasts 28 years like the old one did. :cool:

Thanks for the help!!!


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