1991 Mercury 200XRI voltage and idle issue

[88MCPS200]

Starting a new thread as replaced the smoked voltage regulators. Started it up on the muffs but had to go part throttle in neutral to get it to run. Tach appeared to be accurate again but noted the volt meter was showing 10.5 - 11 volts. Two month old battery fully charged and showing 12.5 volts with motor off and 12.76 volts with motor running.

Metered the yellow wires from my stator before connecting to new regulators and they checked within specs. Any ideas what to check next? If I adjust the idle stop screw I can get the motor to start without partially advancing the throttle but still have the voltage issue indicated on the volt meter (did not check the voltage to the volt meter with my Fluke as the heat was over 100 degrees so I called it a day)

Thanks.

Mike

[rock]

During the last month or so I have bought a bad fuel pump and a bad starter solenoid. Just cuz a part is new don't mean it is good. If you are showing more voltage not running I might guess you have a bad regulator. (or maybe a ware grounding somewhere). Good luck.

Rock

[David - WI]

You didn't say what rpm it's idling at?
I don't think you should adjust the idle speed with the idle stop screw... you would advance the ignition timing stop until the idle speed is high enough for the motor to idle on it's own and charge the battery?

[88MCPS200]

You didn't say what rpm it's idling at?
I don't think you should adjust the idle speed with the idle stop screw... you would advance the ignition timing stop until the idle speed is high enough for the motor to idle on it's own and charge the battery?

With the throttle advanced enough to get it to start it will turn 1,000 RPM and I can then back it off to 700 RPM and it will remain running but once the throttle is backed off to the neutral position it will die.

It also seems the voltage at my battery while the motor is running should be more than .25V higher than the battery voltage with the motor off.

[David - WI]

With the throttle advanced enough to get it to start it will turn 1,000 RPM and I can then back it off to 700 RPM and it will remain running but once the throttle is backed off to the neutral position it will die.

It also seems the voltage at my battery while the motor is running should be more than .25V higher than the battery voltage with the motor off.

700 rpm in gear, in the water would be Ok. If the engine isn't spinning fast enough it won't make 13.5 or 14 volts. You need to go through the "link & sync" procedure in order to get the idle timing correct.

[88MCPS200]

700 rpm in gear, in the water would be Ok. If the engine isn't spinning fast enough it won't make 13.5 or 14 volts. You need to go through the "link & sync" procedure in order to get the idle timing correct.

Will get the necessary timing light for a two-stroke and embark on my first Link n Sync.

[88MCPS200]

Just being able to get back to troubleshooting my 200XRi, is there a specific Timing light needed for a 2 Stroke outboard or will an automotive one work for performing a Link & Sync?

[skialot2]

Any automotive timing light will work fine. If your timing light has a tachometer, it should have a 2-4 stroke switch. Your motor should idol at about 700 RPM in gear. Any lower it will stall. It sounds like you are charging. You won't get a lot of voltage at idol. My 150 does not look like it is charging at all on the hose. As soon as I go out and go fast the voltage come up to 14+.

[88MCPS200]

Finally able to perform a link n sync and now my 200XRi consistently starts on the first turn of the key (on the hose). Hoping to get it on the water this weekend for a test drive. Charging voltage is also good now.

[88MCPS200]

My 1988 MasterCraft ProStar 200 with a 1991 Mercury 200 XRi. These are basically the same hull as the inboard ProStar stretched a foot to add the splash well. Has two tracking fins and corners like it’s on rails. These boats make a very flat wake and were primarily used to pull the Ski Jumping and barefooting events in tournaments.
533085

[88MCPS200]

Good evening, thank you All for your input. The Link n Sync was a success! Boat ran great this afternoon with no additional adjustments required with it in the water. Ow to enjoy a summer on the water.

[LakeFever]

How does that hull compare to an inboard version for water skiing?

[88MCPS200]

Wake is flat, very much the same as the inboard ProStar. MasterCraft basically stretched the inboard hull a foot and added the splashwell. It has two tracking fins below the pylon which gives it great tracking and it turns like a slot car.
533366

[Aaronhl]

Maybe a little off the topic - What would cause a voltage regulator to melt? Good news is I was able to replace the one that melted and now I get close to 14V while running in idle...but I dont want to melt another voltage regulator. The new ones I put on are grounded with a wire, the old voltage regulators did not have a ground wire, only grounded through mounting itself...

[88MCPS200]

Maybe a little off the topic - What would cause a voltage regulator to melt? Good news is I was able to replace the one that melted and now I get close to 14V while running in idle...but I dont want to melt another voltage regulator. The new ones I put on are grounded with a wire, the old voltage regulators did not have a ground wire, only grounded through mounting itself...


My new regulators have ground leads as well and I grounded them to the block. It’s my understanding that the OEM connectors can contribute to them overheating or burning up and melting like mine did.

There are other members on the forum who can provide much better information than I. They certainly helped me out.

[Aaronhl]

My new regulators have ground leads as well and I grounded them to the block. It’s my understanding that the OEM connectors can contribute to them overheating or burning up and melting like mine did.

There are other members on the forum who can provide much better information than I. They certainly helped me out.

Thanks for sharing...Yea I am kinda over the bullet connectors but what else would work

[tlwjkw]

solder and heat shrink............

[LakeFever]

Kester 44 solder is the way to go for electrical soldering. Also be sure to use quality name brand dual wall heat shrinks. Cheap harbor freight ones are too thin and weak. Those two components are worth spending money on. I also suggest a high quality soldering iron. A Wall Lenk LG400 will last your life and make easy work of all this type of work