Finally sea trialed the 2.4/200 I bought and de-salted

[pcrussell50]

It's been running real nice on the muffs, and today was the day for the sea trial. Ran fine, just like this 2.0/2.4 family of v6's does. Just used factory/manual settings for timing and link and sync. Does a nice stable 550-600 rpm at idle in gear, etc... No stabilizer module, no oiler or module. Pre-mix-o-rama.

My only issue: right at the power band sweet spot, probably where the throttle cam changes profile radically, it's stiff and hard to modulate because of a narrow band between not quite enough, and an explosion of thrust and rpm. I know, first world problems, but is there a way to broaden out that sweet zone? Or make it less stiff so it's easier to modulate? Seems to be not stiff coming in and out of neutral. Maybe a different side-mount controller (I'm using the factory 70's/80's Mercury remote)? Or it just is what it is, and I have to live with it?

-Peter

[David - WI]

Check for a kink in the cables... and then clean & lube them? There is also (probably) a tension screw on the throttle control.

[pcrussell50]

Check for a kink in the cables... and then clean & lube them? There is also (probably) a tension screw on the throttle control.

No kinks. But I've never cleaned or lubed the cables in the 11 years since I got this boat, LOL.

To lube a cable... Just extend the cable and put some marine grease on the extended bit and work it back and forth? I can't imagine the grease would work it's way very far along the length of the cable, but maybe it doesn't need to?

I wanted to get some input form S&F before I start taking apart the remote to lube it, in case the need for lube is rare. Thanks for contributing.

-Peter

[KIRCHNER]

Maybe the t. cam is worn a little..

[David - WI]

I was thinking something like this?
https://backwaterperformance.com/products/throttle-cable-luber

[David - WI]

Some cables, you can remove the connector on one end or the other and slide the inner out of the liner and clean & lube it.

[pcrussell50]

I will have a look at this soon.

In the meantime I took the remote off and lubricated the stack of plates that make it up. There was some improvement. I’ll taper her out again tomorrow. Maybe that and cables combined will do it in the end?

-Peter

[pcrussell50]

Maybe the t. cam is worn a little..

Insightful idea. But not this time. The surfaces that run on the rubber roller are in great shape, and the pivot and bushings are not wobbly and well lubed.

-Peter

[Jim Speros]

I have seen the throttle/ timing arm get tight. The center pivot is a 3/8 bolt I think. There is a plastic bushing that can get salted up and tight. Easy check is to remove cable and see how free it is. It should move easily with only tension from the spring in the pivot. And snap back easily without help.

[derekfl]

maybe get another cam or two and try customizing the ramp where it gets steep and moves the throttles a lot. lemme pick thru my pile of stuff... so, i picked thru my stuff. the later ones have plastic cams and smaller threaded rods to attach to the throttle-advance lever. but in looking at my 2000 XR6, my advance finishes advancing before the cam even touches the throttle roller. i assume that is not correct as my 115 moves the throttle levers as it advances? i adjusted the rod as far as possible and it still barely touches throttle levers before full advance is reached. PC. back to your 2.4, i have a couple of early metal cams and throttle rods if you want something to butcher while still having an unmolested setup.

[tlwjkw]

do you have a gap between tha roller and throttle arm at rest?.. tha movement should be smooth all tha way thru it although tha pressure it takes may increase as more throtle is applied.. tha cables themselves are what they are.. a few have built a tool of sorts to lube it all tha way from end ta end.. kinda of a pia and gets kinda messy but it worked...

[derekfl]

Should there be no gap between roller and cam at rest? Mine has a gap until full advance is in. I assume that is a bad thing as my 3 and 4 cyl don’t.

[derekfl]

I guess the lube tool is basically chucking the sleeve up to a grease gun?

[tlwjkw]

Should there be no gap between roller and cam at rest? Mine has a gap until full advance is in. I assume that is a bad thing as my 3 and 4 cyl don’t.

just plain 'ole production 1/8 ta 1/4" works jus fine.....

a little pipe anda coupla fittings and a good air compressor/lotsa cleanin' chemicals.. was a thread with pics on hydrostream owners.. so old its gone now.. but here's one but these a little different than tha one rexy built...

Steering Cable Lube (screamandfly.com) (https://www.screamandfly.com/showthread.php?188864-Steering-Cable-Lube&highlight=Trex)

[pcrussell50]

Took her out again this morning after having lubed the stack of plates in the remote, (with reelx, so not a proper grease). Improvement though. When I get interested, I’ll look more closely at the cables. If they’re too rough I’ll see if they can be pulled out of then sleeve and lubed. If not, the new cables I guess.

-Peter

[derekfl]

Should the gap be closed before timing starts advancing?

[tlwjkw]

no.. timin' starts advancing tha instant tha arm starts forward before tha roller is touched....

[pcrussell50]

maybe get another cam or two and try customizing the ramp where it gets steep and moves the throttles a lot. lemme pick thru my pile of stuff... so, i picked thru my stuff. the later ones have plastic cams and smaller threaded rods to attach to the throttle-advance lever. but in looking at my 2000 XR6, my advance finishes advancing before the cam even touches the throttle roller. i assume that is not correct as my 115 moves the throttle levers as it advances? i adjusted the rod as far as possible and it still barely touches throttle levers before full advance is reached. PC. back to your 2.4, i have a couple of early metal cams and throttle rods if you want something to butcher while still having an unmolested setup.

Very kind of you Derek. I am interested, thank you. Should I PM you? No hurry. We he girls start school this week so not much in the way of boating any more this year

-Peter

[David - WI]

just plain 'ole production 1/8 ta 1/4" works jus fine.....

a little pipe anda coupla fittings and a good air compressor/lotsa cleanin' chemicals.. was a thread with pics on hydrostream owners.. so old its gone now.. but here's one but these a little different than tha one rexy built...

Steering Cable Lube (screamandfly.com) (https://www.screamandfly.com/showthread.php?188864-Steering-Cable-Lube&highlight=Trex)

I think this is T-Rex's article?
https://web.archive.org/web/20170223064608/http://hydrostream.org/ArticleArchives/Luber.htm