No power

[Charger_]

03 Mercury XR6 150 carbed engine

Problem: When I throttle up the boat never planes out, even at WOT. It's like I have no power / or lack of. Outboard never dies.Thought it was a fuel / carb related. Hub is not spun. No diagnostic port to pull any fault codes. Thinking issue with trigger or TPM? Any thoughts?

Maintenance: rebuilt carbs - needle/seat/gaskets
rebuilt fuel pump / new fuel line
new plugs /gapped
new water pump /stats / poppet relief valve

Testing: Good spark able to jump 7/16 gap on all CDMs at cranking. Cylinder compression is in the 130's and within 10%.

Stator: 429 ohms 221V
Trigger: P/B 896 ohms 4.9V
W/R 1082 ohms 6.3V
B/Y 1155 ohms 6.3V

[25two.stroke]

If you haven't already then your first step should be to run the engine on a portable fuel tank and different fuel line. It could be a suction in the gas tank causing the motor to not draw fuel. Or it could be the liner in the fuel line collapsed into a ball inside the fuel line. Different line and tank for a test will eliminate that possibility. If the problem persists then do a visual. Hit WOT throttle on the control box and make sure the timing is advancing (the trigger arm moves) and all 3 butterflies on the carbs open up. If you carb linkage is broken then its possible your bottom carb is the only one opening up...then it will run but make no power.

[Charger_]

Replaced fuel line from the tank to the engine. Fresh non-ethanol gas. Could try a secondary tank. I would think that the engine would die if it was starving for fuel.

Butterfly's are sitting horizontal flat when throttle is wide open.

During the bog, squeezed the ball and no change. That is why I think it is electrical.

OEM Trigger did test low ohms but within specs on volts. OEM Stator tested within spec both ohms/volts


Cylinders might not be firing at the right time. TPM / Trigger - Can those electrical components be further tested?

[billybob]

Do a spark test on all 6 cyl,s. I think you will find your problem.

[skialot2]

Replaced fuel line from the tank to the engine. Fresh non-ethanol gas. Could try a secondary tank. I would think that the engine would die if it was starving for fuel.

Butterfly's are sitting horizontal flat when throttle is wide open.

During the bog, squeezed the ball and no change. That is why I think it is electrical.

OEM Trigger did test low ohms but within specs on volts. OEM Stator tested within spec both ohms/volts


Cylinders might not be firing at the right time. TPM / Trigger - Can those electrical components be further tested?



Your trigger is testing bad. I would change that first. You can get them cheap on eBay. Used OEM of new aftermarket for around $50. It's easy to change if you have a flywheel puller. Also check your flywheel while you have it off. Sometimes there is an epoxied ring with the timing pickup in it. That ring can break loose and spin a little and change your timing.

[Charger_]

If the trigger sends the signal to fire then wouldn't it be the TPM? Trigger voltage is within spec. Resistance is low. It should be between 1100-1400. I thought with the trigger, if it's giving the proper volts it could still be good

[Jim Speros]

Do a spark test on all 6 cyl,s. I think you will find your problem.

That's my thought too. I test all six at once. It shows spark patterns. Bad trigger will kill 2 cylinders in known pairs. 1,4 2,5 3,6. The trigger creates no voltage, or very little. Its basically a switch for the switch boxes. Bad stator will show irregular spark on one side or other. If all fire consistently and same color problem is likely not ignition.

I wonder when your boat last ran properly? Who did carbs? Was linkage set up perfectly?

Best to apply basic troubleshooting principles and not assume anything.

[skialot2]

If you still have a TPM. Disconnect it. Throw it away. They cause nothing but problems. Try the motor with it disconnected. If it works, reset your timing. If it still doesn't work, change the trigger, it's testing bad. Then reset your timing.
The thing with these electronics is there is no reliable way to test them conclusively. They can test good and can still be bad. They can test bad and still be good. But if you are having a problem, and a part tests bad, I would change it.

[Charger_]

Issue occured before and no change after all maintenance was done. Link n sync set according to the mercury service manual. I ruled out carbs as not my issue. No irregular or lack of spark at cranking. Outboard runs. That is why I can't pinpoint what part is failing. I could get a CDM wire harness to test inline at different RPM's or mark the cylinders, use a timing light to see when it should vs is getting fire.

[Charger_]

Just trying to learn… What is the purpose of a TPM if you can bypass? TPM has other pin connectors not just the trigger. Would this cause erratic timing?

[Jim Speros]

Share your serial number of the engine. I would like to see what ignition you have. Not sure what you guys are calling a TPM. Carbs engines are generally easy to troubleshoot.

[Jim Speros]

Ohm readings IMO are only relevant when open or shorted. Minor variations mean nothing.

[skialot2]

Share your serial number of the engine. I would like to see what ignition you have. Not sure what you guys are calling a TPM. Carbs engines are generally easy to troubleshoot.

I am assuming he means the Idle stabilizer / spark advance module. Some people call it a Timing protection module. It alters the timing to stabilize the idle and prevent overrevving. If it malfunctions it can retard the timing so it wont rev up under load.

[Charger_]

Mercury Parts # 857185T1 IGN
Outboard Tag# 1150454AD

[Charger_]

Last part you said,"If it malfunctions it can retard the timing so it wont rev up under load". That sounds like the issue I'm experiencing.

[Jim Speros]

Skialot2, Thanks for sharing what the TPM stands for. Makes my laugh. Silly name for it.

Charger. Neither of those numbers is an engine serial number. An XR6 can have either coils and switch boxes or CDMs and a control module. Not sure it has an Idle Stabilizer on either .

Engine serial numbers
XR-6 - 0D082000 THRU 0G303045 (https://www.mercruiserparts.com/xr-6-0d082000-thru-0g303045)

XR-6 - 0G303046 THRU 0G760299 (https://www.mercruiserparts.com/xr-6-0g303046-thru-0g760299)

XR-6 - 0G760300 THRU 0G960499 (https://www.mercruiserparts.com/xr-6-0g760300-thru-0g960499)

XR-6 - 0G960500 THRU 1B226999 (https://www.mercruiserparts.com/xr-6-0g960500-thru-1b226999)

[Jim Speros]

It is hard to help you if your not properly naming the engines components.

[Jim Speros]

857185T1 (https://www.mercruiserparts.com/857185t1-controller-ign)
CONTROLLER-IGN




It has a number of plugs, Connects to stator, trigger and harness.

Yes it could be your problem. Not sure if it can be tested. You can test around it. I replace them whenever I replace a powerhead that has failed without an apparent reason.

[skialot2]

Last part you said,"If it malfunctions it can retard the timing so it wont rev up under load". That sounds like the issue I'm experiencing.

I don't know what that outboard tag # is, but after looking up the part # I am going to say your serial # falls between 0G960500 and 1B226999. Unfortunately, your motor uses the next generation ignition system from what I am referring to. The part you are referring to is the ignition control module. I believe it replaces the twin switch boxes and the idle stabilizer / Spark advance module and make them all one unit. If I were you, I would start by changing the trigger. You said I tests out of range. I have seen parts test good and still be bad. But I have never seen a part test bad and still be good. Here is the eBay item number for a used trigger for $50 that should fit your motor. 293481253373 Double check it fits your motor. I am guessing at your serial number. If you need a flywheel puller here is a cheap one for $13 Item# 264517857614

[skialot2]

Skialot2, Thanks for sharing what the TPM stands for. Makes my laugh. Silly name for it.

Charger. Neither of those numbers is an engine serial number. An XR6 can have either coils and switch boxes or CDMs and a control module. Not sure it has an Idle Stabilizer on either .

Engine serial numbers
XR-6 - 0D082000 THRU 0G303045 (https://www.mercruiserparts.com/xr-6-0d082000-thru-0g303045)



XR-6 - 0G303046 THRU 0G760299 (https://www.mercruiserparts.com/xr-6-0g303046-thru-0g760299)



XR-6 - 0G760300 THRU 0G960499 (https://www.mercruiserparts.com/xr-6-0g760300-thru-0g960499)



XR-6 - 0G960500 THRU 1B226999 (https://www.mercruiserparts.com/xr-6-0g960500-thru-1b226999)




Hi Jim. TPM is a silly name for it. But if you think about it, it actually does what it says. It's a module that uses the timing to protect the engine from overrevving.

The idle stabilizer is actually called the idle speed control. It is part # 87076A10. It is used on the first 3 serial # ranges. It's located in "cylinder block and end caps"

[Jim Speros]

It was called an idle stabilizer at one point. Non issue. The modules have good intended uses. The problem is when they malfunction they often blow the engine. So to me the use of the word protection is the silly part.

To his problem the part in question is an ignition controller. Switch boxes, rev limiter and more all in one. Good thing they were only used for a short period of time IMO.

Maybe Charger has found his answer.

[skialot2]

The modules have good intended uses. The problem is when they malfunction they often blow the engine. So to me the use of the word protection is the silly part.

Yup. When they work as intended, they work good. When they don't, they can cause a problem like his. Or destroy the engine. That is why they say to get rid of them.

[Charger_]

Mercury calls it IGN, CDI calls it TPM but I see your point. Stated is what Crowley uses to reference that particular engine. My outboard tag number does fall within the "OT" range.

Trigger is testing low ohms but is not an open line. If it's only sending a signal then how important is the ohms variance? Since the IGN (can't be tested) is the controller, I would think that should be replaced before the Tigger.

[pcrussell50]

Last part you said,"If it malfunctions it can retard the timing so it wont rev up under load". That sounds like the issue I'm experiencing.

Remove the idle stabilizer and give it a go. I have three motors that came with one originally, and not one of them still has it, courtesy of previous owners who have followed standard S&F advice and removed them. and they all run great without it.

try it and report back here.

-Peter

[Jim Speros]

Ohms are subject to temp. Variations are typical. Triggers are generally simple and pretty dependable so long as the wires are not dry rotting and breaking down or chaffing on something. The controller is doing a lot of work and has numerous components inside. Like switch boxes they can be temperamental. They are not cheap but as the name suggests its doing a lot. It would be a good first swing at your issue.

I am old school merc and suggest OEM parts. CDI is good stuff as a second choice. Stay away from anything else.

[OnPad]

Cdm engine, no switch boxs, and delete of anything electrical not a option.

Seems to be a common theme (lack of power) with cdm engines post 2000. Makes me think the control module's might be suspect.

I do like Jim's first post about trying a remote fuel tank.
You need to rule out fuel starvation.

[25two.stroke]

He has 2 control modules that govern the timing on his engine: a main control module and a rev limiter. I have never tried to take the rev limiter out of one of these so I'm not sure if it is possible.

The control module could be bad or the rev limiter could be bad. Considering all you have done I would do the following:

Put a small prop on it. Like a 11 pitch prop for either a 4-3/4" gearcase or one for a 4-1/4" would be even better.
Get a timing light.
Back your boat down the ramp and leave it hooked to the trailer.
Put a timing light on #1 and have someone floor the motor to WOT.
You should achieve 4000 rpms on the trailer.
Your timing should increase to at least 19 btdc.
If the motor doesn't have power but the timing does increase then you know you are dropping cylinders out.
If the timing doesn't increase then your ign controller is probably bad. I have one if you find yours is bad. If you want me to ship it to you I can and you can use it to troubleshoot then send it back to me.
Your rev limiter could also be bad, but I think thats less likely to be the case if the timing is not increasing as it should. However, at only $100 new it would be an easy thing to throw on the motor and try.

If the timing advances and the motor lacks power then you are probably dropping cylinders under a load. You can use the timing light by putting it on every plug lead to see if they are still flashing the timing light when it bogs. Use it kinda like those goofy spark plug tester lights. They are not always accurate cause it takes less voltage to fire the light...but you can find if one or two cylinders are totally loosing spark when you step on the gas.

[OnPad]

Good advice right there. You can use white paint, or tape, to label the flywheel for each cylinder.

[FMP]

Always a good idea. Mid dwell each piston TDC, count ring gear teeth, 360°/ # of teeth. Equal tooth to tooth distances to the L of the new TDC mark to your preferred setting WOT° , mark it.

[pcrussell50]

It was called an idle stabilizer at one point. Non issue. The modules have good intended uses. The problem is when they malfunction they often blow the engine. So to me the use of the word protection is the silly part.


This is probably why the conventional wisdom here at S&F is to remove the idle stabilizer. I know that my 2.0/2.4 family motors run perfectly well without them, and I sleep better at night not worrying about losing a motor to it.

-Peter

[Charger_]

Never checked or set timing on an outboard. I do have a timing light / TDC locator. Using the timing light I should see the timing advancing? Ordered a CDM harness tester to be able to test inline.

[FMP]

Index all 6 on the FW as mentioned in post #29 Use a dial or similar to locate true mid TDC of each cyl. Each cyl is checked at the pointer, switching leads only not running around the FW while running.
Set gun zero , watch the light to made marks. You can check at cranking speed with full advance in wide open or with a test prop in water running wide open.
The running is as accurate as possible.
Most all IGN require a lead time of 1-2° using the cranking speed method. By the time the trigger says go, piston speed has it closer to TDC before the plug lights, so 24° at cranking yields 23-22° at high rpm.
Do all 6, then set total to the most advanced cyl as your safe maximum.

[OnPad]

Never checked or set timing on an outboard. I do have a timing light / TDC locator. Using the timing light I should see the timing advancing? Ordered a CDM harness tester to be able to test inline.

Yes, as the trigger moves, you will be able to see the timing move, with the light.
By checking timing on each hole, and walking the light around a indexed flywheel,... it will light up problems with any particular cylinder, or combination of em.

I hate to load more work on ya, but it might be worth while to also do a bias test. It could be performed at the same time you check the timing, with the engine running. The bias test is a good indicator of switch box health, or in this case, the control module.

Setting timing wot, with engine not running, is a good way to set max timing, but probably not the best for testing electrical components in this situation.

[Charger_]

Ordered an IGN-Contoller from CDI. All that is needed is re-attach leads /pin connectors and screw back down? Will test further before I replace module. No dial, I have a Proform 66792 TDC locator.

[Charger_]

CDM - switch box / ignition coil

IGN-Controller - If the CDM is it's own switch box then the controller is the idle stabilizer, rev limiter, spark advance?

If I replace the IGN-Controller, Do I need to add dielectric grease to the pin connectors?

CDM test harness - Will be able to test trigger and stator volts going to each module at idle?

522106522107

[OnPad]

My understanding of the system is. Cdm store the energy from stator, in a capacitor. Control module is adding timing correction to the trigger pulse, that fires the cdm. Just about what you said.
I've also heard that a efi control module will do away with the rev limit on your carb engine. Although l can't verify this.


Grease on a multi pin waterproof connection? Sparingly if you slick it up.

Your analysis on test harness, sounds about what I just looked at in service manual dated 1999.
522111522112522113522115522122

[Charger_]

How should I go about further testing?

Will drop the outboard in a water trough so I can test under load.
Replace the IGN-controller first? Trigger is feed into this controller so if at fault would not give correct output/reading, correct? Reply's stated that this sounds like the likely culprit to my issue. Further test the CDMs with the wire harness. Check if stator/trigger volts are within spec at idle. Would this tell me if I'm dropping clylinders due to incorrect volts or that can only be done with an inductive timing light? I really don't think that the timing could be that far out of whack to cause this issue.

[OnPad]

Visually check the trigger for smooth operation, with throttle lever.
Check stator, and trigger voltage. Need a dva for this.

Check timing, (on all cylinders, running). I could imagine a professional (not me), starting with this test. Or possibly some sort of fuel flow test.
If you have problems with spark/timing, like a misfire, improper advance, down 2 holes , down 3, weak on all 6, or weak at a certain rpm? Knowing each scenario would help pinpoint which electrical component is bad. See photo "tips for troubleshooting" in my last post.
If the timing looks good on all 6, and is advancing properly, you have a intermittent electrical problem, or
more likely, a fuel issue.


I would test what you could, before install of new control module. Stator, trigger, timing, and bias.
Then last cdm's, (if you have weak/no spark condition).

I should disclose, not a merc tech, just a dumb logger, few beers deep, working for free, on the information you provided. No guarantee on my opinion. :cheers:

[Charger_]

Dropping cylinders can only be tested with inductive timing light, correct? OR Can I use a test harness to check for drops/fluctuations? Can this be used at a higher RPM then at idle?


Post#27 Don't have another gearcase/ test prop. Can I still perform that testing/troubleshooting steps listed in a tank/water trough?

[OnPad]

Cleetus could find your limiter!
I think it drops ignition and could be seen with timing light? Or heard?

I doubt your test harness is going to be much use for seeing fluctuations, especially if it has a dva attached. Harness should operate at any rpm.

Running unloaded, is going to produce much the same electrical results, as would the test prop. Might even find your limiter?:reddevil: In lieu of test wheel, you can put about half your prop in the lake, or find a old inline prop for testing on the trailer. Which better simulates actual operating conditions. I know, it sucks to be "that guy" at the ramp.

[Charger_]

If I drop the outboard in water trough can I run past idle speed while on trailer without using test/different prop? Want to make sure before I try it.

CDM harness tester even needed? Since I can test with DVA or ohms/resistance. Only thing that harness gives me is the ability to test to each module. Used a spark tester, each CDM was able to jump the 7/16 gap.


How do you perform a bias test?


2 4-pin connectors each with 2 yellow wires pairs coming off the stator. Each pin connector is plugging into the regulator/retifier. Stator - What is the resistance / volts of each yellow wire pair?


How do I test the regulator/rectifiers?

[skialot2]

If I drop the outboard in water trough can I run past idle speed while on trailer without using test/different prop? Want to make sure before I try it.

CDM harness tester even needed? Since I can test with DVA or ohms/resistance. Only thing that harness gives me is the ability to test to each module. Used a spark tester, each CDM was able to jump the 7/16 gap.


How do you perform a bias test?


2 4-pin connectors each with 2 yellow wires pairs coming off the stator. Each pin connector is plugging into the regulator/retifier. Stator - What is the resistance / volts of each yellow wire pair?


How do I test the regulator/rectifiers?


The ignition system and the charging system should be completely separate. If your motor is charging, they are good. I still think your trigger is bad. Out of all the tests you have done, it is the only thing that tests out of range. If it tested open the motor would not run at all.

[OnPad]

Run in trough or hose at any rpm In neutral. No information on trough, so even if you had a tank that would hold up, or not empty, I dont think I would want to run past about 1/3 throttle with the prop buried, in gear. Would also be pretty uncomfortable walking the timing light around the flywheel in gear.

This ought to keep ya busy for a while.522213522214522215522216522217522218522219522220522221522222522223522224522225522226

[PanRonnie]

let me at to onpad's info with the technicians guide
your ignition starts at page 28

[Charger_]

If the timing light shows that different cylinders are firing, I would think the trigger is at fault but could still be the controller. It would throw the trigger off, correct? I might have two issues going on at the same time.

[Charger_]

Proform 66792 TDC locator - Fits 14mm spark plug holes, would this work or should a dial be used to be exact? What dial do/should I be using?

How do I index the flywheel? It's probably easy to do for you guys but I need a simple step-by-step instructions to follow.

[FMP]

You could use a pencil, eraser on the piston top if you're careful about the stop and go range , dwell. Same as that tool or a dial. You note the range of degree the piston is parked and find the mid point. At that mark the FW to the pointer.
Post #29

[OnPad]

This method is for troubleshooting, not racing.
Mark the flywheel with white paint, mid tdc (or mid dwell) every cylinder. Paint the cylinder number above this line. Your idle timing is going to be near this line.
Your wide open timing is aprox 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" to the left of your last mark. Make a mark there also, every cylinder. This is where your timing should be at full throttle, or with the trigger linkage all the way aft (rearward). This can be checked at cranking speed(full throttle not running), or with test prop while running. Or possibly in neutral running, (might get a little wild).

So let's say you fire this thing up on the hose at idle. As you clip on to each cyl with the timing light, and walk the light around the flywheel, It should only light up on the cylinder your testing and near 0° tdc(or whatever your engine likes). You dont want it jumping around more than a couple degrees, and definitely not lighting up randomly around the flywheel. Same thing at full throttle the timing should be around the 20° mark and not wander.

As the trigger is activated via the throttle arm, the timing should move 20 degrees or more.

[FMP]

He'll be glad he took the 1/2 hr to index all 6.
If he has a double fire it'll be found just as fast as a miss on any cylinder going forward. Has zero to do with racing or fishing, just good to have it done.
Post #29 , check it.

[OnPad]

I read it and liked it. Don't mean to be picky, but If you were doing it for racing wouldn't you zero dial indicator at tdc #1, measure .462 btdc on dial indicator, and make sure the timing needle is accurate on the flywheel cover. Then you could figure out what your desired timing equates to on the dial indicator, and mark that for each cylinder. (Like possibly, 25° = .150 on the gauge). I don't know about counting ring gear teeth for racing, fine for troubleshooting.:cheers:

[OnPad]

I was just hoping the OP was going to make a video of himself wide open in gear out in the horse trough. He could of paid someone to fix his engine with the revenue, once it went viral.

[OnPad]

Maybe he's over propped?:reddevil:

[OnPad]

Last guy asking 40 questions ended up having a bad battery.:cheers:

[FMP]

Count the ring teeth to get your port height degrees from TDC too...
Mark the increase on the gear.

[Charger_]

I only wish it was just a dead battery. I'm asking questions to learn how to repair/troubleshoot my issue. Maybe even learn another thing or two in the process. I thought that was the point of this forum.You dont have to respond anymore OnPad.

[Jim Speros]

I read you ordered ign controller. Did you get it and install it yet?

[derekfl]

Charger. OnPad wasn't calling you stupid. he was commenting on others. i was and still am one of those others. although i kind of fall in the halfway point now between noob that knows nothing and someone who can actually answer some of these questions, thanks to these people and their knowledge and help. don't piss off the brain trusts like him for venting once in a while. and indexing the flywheel is actually indexing the flywheel cover so TDC is accurate. flywheel itself can not be put on crank in any other spline position.

[tlwjkw]

I only wish it was just a dead battery. I'm asking questions to learn how to repair/troubleshoot my issue. Maybe even learn another thing or two in the process. I thought that was the point of this forum.You dont have to respond anymore OnPad.

jus "WOW"...........................................................................................

[FMP]

Charger. OnPad wasn't calling you stupid. he was commenting on others. i was and still am one of those others. although i kind of fall in the halfway point now between noob that knows nothing and someone who can actually answer some of these questions, thanks to these people and their knowledge and help. don't piss off the brain trusts like him for venting once in a while. and indexing the flywheel is actually indexing the flywheel cover so TDC is accurate. flywheel itself can not be put on crank in any other spline position.

Indexing the FW was mentioned to index all 6 cyls around the FW for each TDC and total advance , for the benefits of tuning and diagnostics.

After each TDC is marked, a check for equal spacing can be done, then further still if concerned during a disassembly to check bank , cyl and crank pin.

The total adv set at #1 may not yield the same for each, then determine by cyl which should lead.

Nobody has called anyone stupid.

[FMP]

I read it and liked it. Don't mean to be picky, but If you were doing it for racing wouldn't you zero dial indicator at tdc #1, measure .462 btdc on dial indicator, and make sure the timing needle is accurate on the flywheel cover. Then you could figure out what your desired timing equates to on the dial indicator, and mark that for each cylinder. (Like possibly, 25° = .150 on the gauge). I don't know about counting ring gear teeth for racing, fine for troubleshooting.:cheers:

Except degrees of rotation don't stay constant with linear travel through the sweep. Degrees are just that, whether read off an indexed timing degree wheel or a FW.

[PanRonnie]

Have you rechecked your spark plugs?
If one is clean or off color it could narrow the search

[Charger_]

Thanks everyone for taking the time to respond to this thread and pass along your knowledge. I have no hard feelings OnPad. You helped me out.


#1 plug seemed a little wet. Others look like normal carbon build up.

IGN and Trigger both came in. Have yet to further test / install components.

[OnPad]

Way to suck up the comedic abuse. You might make it here yet. :reddevil:
Your piston stop will work, it's going to be about 1 degree off true tdc. Roll back into it from the exhaust stroke, it will be closer to idle timing.
I use the depth gauge on digital calipers myself.
20 degrees = about .080" below piston height at tdc.

[Fishwhisper]

I had the exact same problem with my very similar motor, you can read it here:
https://www.screamandfly.com/showthread.php?362845-Having-problem-with-Mercury-2-5L-planeing-trigger-out-of-spec-opinions

Had the same trigger that read half the resistance it should. Replaced it.
Cleaned the carbs and adjusted one float that was sitting to high.
rebuilt pulse pump
replaced control module with a CDI brand module I found cheap.
Did the whole link n sync.
Unfortunately I did it all at the same time but when I took it out it ran like it should. But it’s a 45 minute drive to run the motor and I really didn’t want to replace/fix one possible problem and run 90 miles to the lake and back. Figured I’d fix everything that could be a real problem. I think it was timing too, that why I replaced the trigger first. There is not test for the control module, if everything test ok then you replace the control module, but I found a used one that was never used by the owner. Got it for like $100 so I said why not.