What do I need to get started on painting?

[Jeff_S]

O.K., here I go again trying to save money. I have an older cross flow OMC that runs like a top now that I replaced all gaskets and most electronics. The motor looks O.K., but the stickers are fading and the cowling is missing a little paint. I have decided I want to get a gun and learn to paint by painting this cowling. I have a good air compressor and pretty good grasp of working with fiberglass etc. This is not the first time I dove head first into something just to learn. I hope ya'll can answer a few questions. I have seen guns that range in price from $75 to $455. What would you guys recommend I get for just painting this outboard and doing a little touch up body work? Where do you guys order your paint and what would ya'll recommend for painting an outboard? Can I paint right over the existing paint if I prep it right? Are there other things I need to get when ordering the paint, such as an activator? What should I do after it is done as far as sanding and buffing? Finally the last question. Where do you guys get stickers for your outboard cowlings made. I don't want the original stickers, just some place to make them. Thanks

[Techno]

I'm going to rethink your post.
You can get paint in a spray can at most paint shops. If you can use a fairly mild paint this is the best and cheapest method. Bad paint jobs can be sanded so it looks like glass, using the right kind of paint of course.

To paint with any of the good paints, to me that means catylized (isocyanate), you have to have a supplied air system. This isn't a choice unless you want a nice paint job and don't care about your health.
This costs about $500. A bit higher a bit lower depending.
Non iso paint isn't as bad but still bad, you can use cartridge filters.

Good thing is for sanding fiberglass you suit up in a tyvek suit, use the hood type supplied air and your isolated from the itchies.


Cheap guns + inexperience usually result in bad paint jobs. See cheap spray can above. This may not be so though.
Expensive paint guns + inexperience can result in good jobs.
Experience and cheap guns can result in good jobs, pros don't bother though since it's thier stuff.
Either can be fixed but a pro doesn't have the time to do it wrong the first time but we do.
If your compressor can't supply the gun you either can't use it or have to stop while it builds pressure, this may be OK.
There are turbine powered spray guns and some have a supplied air system on them. About $600 - 1 grand for the combined unit.

The stickers can be bought online or possibly localy. Sign shops can do them. The computer has made it very easy to do this now.

If your talking about the paint on the mid and all that probably can get away with prepping it. It's a pretty durable stuff and isn't worth taking off unless you have some particular itch to. The aluminum underneath isn't anywhere as smooth as the paint implies.

I get my paint from a paint store, like for cars and such. It can be cheap to very expensive. Over 1 grand for my paint so far. This is because of many types though.
Simple single coats to base coat with a clear coat to a base, Kandy or pearl..., and clear coat.

[sho305]

If you have to, you can do what I sometimes do when I paint something small. The cheapest way I can figure is: Get a $130+ gun, maybe the standard Devillbiss or another good name. A good copy might work. Go to an auto paint store and ask for the info on their single stage urethane that will be a little cheaper and still quality. You may have to be careful of some metallics acting funny with this instead of the clear coat that will cost more. If it mottles you can usually do a high pressure light spray over the wet paint to get rid of it. Should be abe to do your motor with a pint of color. The info will tell you how to prep, what grit to sand, what reducer and activators to use, etc. Use naptha from hardware store to pre-wash and pre-spray wash and wipe completely dry when you do. Must be very clean and no touch with your dirty hands. I would only sand hard (through original paint) where paint is bad to smooth it and some etching primer should be used on bare aluminum (or epoxy, but that is pricey), atleast prime and sand to get rid of the paint line/chips. If you are real cheap use rustoleum primer spray can, not recommended but I have on things that were not so important(but now look great with car paint on them). Let any primer dry real good, don't bother primeing good original paint just sand it.

Sand all of it as directed, like with 600 wet, and get the edges good or use a red scratch pad so the paint does not peel at the edges. Clean it and mask what you need to. Get one of those plastic filters for your gun to clean the air, and a 3M $20 disposable respirator-the one that is gray and looks like a double cartridge type. They are excellent and last a while in the ziplock bag they come in. Set up a clean area with a fan to exhaust the spray but not stir up dust. Cover up with a paint suit or clothes. Wipe it one last time or use tack cloth. Make sure you are shaved clean and mask seals.

Mix paint and spray a nice even overlapping coat just like a robot would that is just wet all over, and you need good lighting to see it well. Spray at recommended pressure from paint maker; you need a regulator with gauge on gun to do it right or figure you loose some pressure with a hose. Run out of there and wait 15 minutes outside after done. Go back and check if paint has skinned by touching a taped area lightly. If ready then do second coat. Make it slightly wetter so it looks good, and remember it flows more after you spray depending on temp and reducer speed. Repeat if you are doing third coat. Pay close attention to gun distance to part, and speed you move it to stay even with your coverage. You will need some laquer thinner to clean your gun and get a plastic paint mixing cup, strainers, sticks with the paint to mix. Practice with a spray can if you suck at spraying, and figure the gun puts on much more paint faster. Get the gun pattern even on scrap cardboard before spraying.

If you don't want to go to the hassle, I have had the best luck with the commercial rustoleum spray in the chrome cans, IMO. Limited colors. It is a pain to spray car paint and not cheap. I just paid $450 for CC on a truck I did, and that was no primer or paper. But like Techno said, catylized paint is much better than any air dry paint. I have poured laquer thinner on day old urethane and watched it dry up without damage(not recommended).;) Or, you can prepare it and find a slow bodyshop to squirt it for you on off-time cheap. That would be best if you have to buy all the stuff unless you want to spray more things later. I did spray a metal shed with my gun using rustoleum from a gallon thinned a little; it does still look very good considering. There is an off brand urethane car paint available around here cheaper too. I use Dupont.

Like Techno, I can't recommend any of this but it has worked for me in times of need. Isocyanate is serious poison, and mostly why I quit painting among all the other chemicals involved. I know someone reactive to it, not pretty at all. The cans don't say "May be harmful..", they say "Known to cause...". Respect that.

[Jeff_S]

I may reconsider this paint thing. I had no idea there was so much involved. I don't think I would use it enough to justify the cost. Thanks.

[sho305]

Call up some bodyshops around you and get a price. Tell them you are poor and can bring it when they are slow. It is easy for them as they have it all on the shelf and only use enough for the job, or can do it with something else. Tell them you will sand it for them the way they want, etc. Should be worth it and not that expensive for a nice paint job on there if the boat warrants it.