good powerhead. trashed mid. best way to separate them.

[derekfl]

so it looks like i am either tryna find a mid for this 200 2.4 powerhead or find a buyer for it and a couple of lowers. i hear drilling through the studs is one option. are the studs close enough to the surface to take a 4-1/2 inch makita with cut-off wheel to them? and how much stud do you have to leave behind to make extracting them doable? and do the studs go into the block or the lower piece that attaches to the 2 block halves?

[tunnelmike]

Have you verified the bores are all chrome ?

It only takes 1/2" of the stud for the extractor to work. Studs are screwed into the block and front half.

[derekfl]

so the studs go through or around the lower block end piece-extension...

[derekfl]

so, both are single piston mids. the 200 is slowly freeing up. takes less hammer blows to move it each time i try. i think it is the pivot on top, not the cylinder itself that is tight. the 175 somebody took a cut-off wheel and made the single piston into a 2 piston setup. 2 really short pistons. is there a way to get this frozen stuff out of the mid, or should i continue the butchery and find another midsection?

[mach351]

Gotta love salt. I cut/drill and then find nice freshwater stuff used on eBay and build new mids.

[tlwjkw]

studs are usually not stuck in tha block but filled with corrosion where they go thru tha adapter plates.. normally jus tha 4 longer ones....... there is room ta hold moisture and grow corrosion.... (1/8 and/or 3/13", 4 ta 6" dia. cut off wheel works wonders)

[25two.stroke]

I did 2 last week :rolleyes:
Drill with a 3/8" drill bit through the upper part of the driveshaft housing and right through the powerhead bolts. Just the long 4, like mentioned above. If you drill the 4 with lifting forced on the powerhead you don't even need to drill them all the way though. Once you get most of the way through they will pop and startle you. Then the powerhead comes off easy and the adapter plate parts are typically savable.

[derekfl]

i got the 2.0 apart using cherry picker and engine stand. it pulled off center and bent some already effed up stud. i am thinking make a plate that bolts to the bottom of the mid where the lower unit came off. put it on top of a piece of square tubing much like engine stands, cherry pickers and class 3 hitches are made of. slide the square tubing under the legs if the cherry picker. move the engine and the lift point as close to the jack as you can get it. you have way more leverage there. my 175 which was pretty bad popped pretty easy even pulling crooked through the j clamp mounted to engine stand with legs under cherry picker. new studs. stainless all-thread acceptable? cuz the powerhead is only put on there with open end wrench torque. https://www.grainger.com/product/19NL75?gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2295:4P7A1P:20501231&gclid=CjwKCAjwov6hBhBsEiwAvrvN6D9Rt1_GEKB3SuHjV13x85LJJ0ZnOhHY7k5ZrZeLN8ZNiUYQELVrUxoCELoQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

[tunnelmike]

Studs are easy to find. Coat with antiseize and no more problems.

[Mrzip]

... I have several Mids.. Single & Multi Rams.. Good Condition.

[derekfl]

Georgia. How far from fl line?

[derekfl]

so, all thread. no-go. unless one gets stainless steel 3/8ths 16 all thread. i fought one short stud outta the adapter where it stayed after coming out of the powerhead as i pulled it. coarse thread where it screws into the aluminum. DUH! of course you can't use fine thread in aluminum. these studs took a bunch of abuse and are fine. you will not find a stronger, more corrosion resistant fastener to reattach your motor to the mid. unless you have to cut them, re-use em.