View Full Version : Removing single trim cyl
KIRCHNER
12-22-2022, 11:29 AM
H i did itow difficult is it? does the clamp assem have to be separated from the mid? i did it a long time ago, i cant remember
David - WI
12-22-2022, 02:13 PM
I can't remember either, been 20 years... but don't you just tilt it all the way up and drive out a little tapered pin that holds the cross-pin in?
Support the motor with a lifting eye and a block of wood under the bullet.
Motor needs to be tilted up aprox. 30 - 40*. (enough so the top pin can pass through)
Take the R.H. side transom bracket off of the boat.
Remove top eyelet pin.
You might have to drive the lower pin out of the left bracket .. or the cyl might wiggle off the pin. (I'm rarely that lucky) :o
KIRCHNER
12-22-2022, 09:55 PM
when u say top pin, do you mean heavy rod the piston swivels on? do i drive the eyelet pin towards bow or back towards stern? is it directional? right t. bracket -starboaed?hyd steer has to come off too? bear with me i not sure if the short piston will allow the 30-40 of travel.. im my worse enemy all of my projects sinc i was 10 yr old, required special parts,tools.machine work once i needed 4 special 5/16 boltsx2'' that torqued to 60 ftlbs. because of my modifications, anything for more h.p. think 30$ per bolt 25yr ago..
Aaronhl
12-22-2022, 10:11 PM
No I removed the single ram trim unit without taking a bracket off, it's actually easier than the 3 ram trim
Aaronhl
12-22-2022, 10:17 PM
when u say top pin, do you mean heavy rod the piston swivels on? do i drive the eyelet pin towards bow or back towards stern? is it directional? right t. bracket -starboaed?hyd steer has to come off too? bear with me i not sure if the short piston will allow the 30-40 of travel.. im my worse enemy all of my projects sinc i was 10 yr old, required special parts,tools.machine work once i needed 4 special 5/16 boltsx2'' that torqued to 60 ftlbs. because of my modifications, anything for more h.p. think 30$ per bolt 25yr ago..
if the oem crush pin is in there you can hammer it out either way, throw it out and use a screw when you put it back on, that was the hardest part when i took mine because i was only able to tap it out from the front of the engine, i had to take it off the jack plate for access, hydraulic steering can stay on, to give you some perspective i have a lake used unit, i was actually planning the whole afternoon to take it off, I ended up taking it off in like half an hour once I got that pin out
There are three pins that comprise the cyl mount.
2 side #37
1 top #38
If you can pull the two side plates #18 and slide hammer the lower pins out .. :rolleyes:
I've only been able to get the pin out of the cyl side because it rides in a bushing and will wiggle out.
The top pin #38 , over the years has been everything from a shaft with slot on one side (to drive a trim sender) to a bolt with washers and a 1/2 x 20 jam nut .
It has been held in place by , concrete lookin cut nails, long pilot set screws, short set screws .. and everything in between. You will just need to look see which yours came with / has. On units I assemble, I tap the hole and use a stainless set screw.
The easy way is to pull one transom bracket off. Or you can do like Aaron said and unbolt "both" from the boat / jack plate .. then when you can't get the lower pins to budge .. you can remove the #2 bracket from the assembly ... ;)
https://www.mercruiserparts.com/Merc/MidasImagesNew/COMMON/1651.gif
KIRCHNER
12-25-2022, 10:41 AM
Merry christmas,thanks to you i see light at the end of the tunnel. i have 1 problem so far.. i cant tilt enough to access the 1/2 top bolt # 38 because of the short travel ram. if i crack the lines loose & pull out the 2 bottom pins #37 will i then be able to pull the motor up to ger at the top bolt out? lastly the little pin, i see a chamfer on the eyelet but no pin or thru hole. there is no way to access the eyelet from the rear, cant even see the backside. if the pin is driven from the back. should i feel a stub sticking out? once i start wrenchin theres no turnin back. if & when i get it out, im sending it to YOU.
Those early factory 15" / short cyl / swivel bracket assy's didn't use a retention pin, if there are aluminum pucks held in place with a stainless strap and two screws on the outsides of the swivel bracket.
If you can't see a clear path for the top .750" eyelet rod (pin :smiletest:) then you might need to hang the motor and remove both transom brackets to slide / heat~n~beat it out.
Merry Christmas you and your family as well !
Mrzip
12-26-2022, 04:09 PM
... Can Be Painful..;)
KIRCHNER
12-26-2022, 07:25 PM
IM going to skip that whole chapter, no trim. gonna set it up for top end and run that baby. have a lot of props to try and tilt pin holes! seems like my mag-cat/ p max will beat the skater,too early to say,
H2OPERF
12-27-2022, 10:29 AM
If you had it shortened recently it should come apart fairly easy, better off doing it now befor you mess up something else or go for a swim if the motor comes out of the water when you let off..
KIRCHNER
12-27-2022, 08:36 PM
I might have to use the old school rope-a-dope trick, until i break out the tools. i used 2 industrial zip ties around the ram.
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