Glastron Surface drive

[CharlieN]

I expect quite a few here have seen this photo of a one off CVX 20 Surface drive from back in the 70's.

https://i.imgur.com/sPjtK6o.jpg

I know nothing about this boat but have always wanted one.
A few years back a friend who is good at scrounging things up found this and had me in mind.

https://i.imgur.com/V76vO5j.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Xznytd7.jpg

Just what my wife wished I would never find, After it was burning my hands for awhile I hung it on the back of my Superboat, stared at it allot and chose to never cut the hull for the propshaft. We all agree to that.

But late October, less than a month ago, what shows up on Farcebook, a 1976 CVX20 with an Oldsmobile milkshake maker in it. looks like someone was not aware you need to drain these engines up here off season. Works for me.

https://i.imgur.com/NAKs0Xj.jpg

Hull and wood is solid, clear coat is end of life, works for me.
So out comes the big 455 milkshake maker

https://i.imgur.com/ppuMQE4.jpg

And the cleanup and prep begins. The engine bay was white froth, dang that took days to clean out.

[LakeFever]

This is gonna be marty moose fantastic there Clark! Awesome!!!

[CharlieN]

Once the initial mopping out and flushing the white froth I removed the Berkeley JE pump, that is set aside with hope someone wants it.

https://i.imgur.com/qecu7IP.jpg

Turns out the drive body is wider than the recess in the hull, so on with the suit, plug in the air supply and get to it

https://i.imgur.com/sPkv7Xn.jpg

Dang I am glad this is not back in the 70s when we would do this with just another shirt pulled over our head.
So time to drill a few hole for brackets and hang the drive in place,

https://i.imgur.com/ISJ96ah.jpg


Now I am getting somewhere. Turns out I chose to cut away some of the drive housing, mixed feelings on that.
Climbed inside the hull and trimmed away the intake for the jet drive and set the transmission in the hull.

https://i.imgur.com/CL66eEK.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/rzhYg78.jpg

At this point I was getting behind on time and weather was 'bout to change, which it did, temps dropped 40F and we are blanketed with snow now.
I really want to make the transmission brackets. If it gets above freezing in the next few days I may get a chance, but till then it is wrapped in it's blanket for the season.

https://i.imgur.com/XfXqCvA.jpg

I can not say this thing will scream but once it has it's L92 6.2 alloy block engine it might fly. It will end up more than 400# lighter than it was.

[David - WI]

That's a damn cool project! :cheers:

[CharlieN]

Sun came out today and we are a few degrees above freezing, I had cleared the snow off the cover a few days ago so I could roll the cover back this morning. What this gave me was a chance to accurately measure the inner structure. Glad I did since my Cad drawing was a rework of my Sprint hull. They are further from each other than I thought.
The transmission mount will be a different, simpler weldment than I thought. It will end up with a rubber sandwich set on the aft floor over the stringer.
Looks like the engine mounts will also set above the stringer, I expect I will fabricate a weldment bolted to the block reaching out to cushions over the stringers. This will eliminate the cross structure that passes under the engine, curious how much that weighs.
Maybe that gets removed while the hull is open.

[aj06bolt12r]

Following.. Very cool

[CharlieN]

A few pics from the day, went back out with the camera to snap a few.
It is just a little snow but it does not want to leave
https://i.imgur.com/VnEjk6a.jpg

The rough cutout in the hull, the white is FG dust, The aft portion where the sidewalls remain I will be leaving to brace the transom, not that there are any loads in that region.
https://i.imgur.com/VN7mZ71.jpg

This is the engine mount structure under the Olds 455 and essentially the same for a 460 Ford.
https://i.imgur.com/ZzN0Mq3.jpg

I expect for the L92 engine, I will build brackets from the block with cushions over the stringers. That is next year.

And a closer shot of the transmission for this build. A ZF-45
https://i.imgur.com/rEIE1D4.jpg

[89LASER]

Very cool build. Is the prop shaft able to be trimmed or is it a fixed position?

[CharlieN]

Thank you, and yes it trims, The drive housing mounts/ pivots on two lower pins with a single high mount ram.
Propshaft mounts with a Ujoint onto the output of the ZF transmission.
Of the shots I have with this just mocked up here are two shots with the housing/drive down and up.
Not the best of comparison shots once I look at these.

https://i.imgur.com/7MSiQ7E.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/YnYOZsF.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/52FJuX8.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/2B6Klxn.jpg

[LakeFever]

This thing is gonna rock!

[CharlieN]

Now that I finally have one of these hulls I am really liking it. I doubt it will scream, the pad is 12" wide with the inner strakes a few inches above them. I expect it will come out of the hole strong.

My intention for the build will be powered by an l-92, alloy block 6.2. I intend to fabricate a nice set of jacketed headers and once tuned, power might be 440-450ish from what the Chevy guys here claim. So that is well more power than the Olds 455 as well as 350# lighter or so.
I have no clue what this prop will be like, I need to live with it since I can not fund a custom shaft and a selection of Bravo props to search for the best.

What open throttle will be, well time will tell. Maybe late next year.

I am expecting it to be docile at speed, again time will tell.

[oldschoolltv]

Way cool.:D

[Instigator]

What a great project!

Been a long time since I’ve seen one on here where someone is thinking outside the box.
Love it!

You make comments on the differences between the hulls but aren’t they both CVX 20’s?
If so, I’d expect only differences being to accept/feed the jet pump?

I had a CVX OB yrs ago and had a friend w/a jet.

[CharlieN]

What a great project!

Been a long time since I’ve seen one on here where someone is thinking outside the box.
Love it!

You make comments on the differences between the hulls but aren’t they both CVX 20’s?
If so, I’d expect only differences being to accept/feed the jet pump?

I had a CVX OB yrs ago and had a friend w/a jet.

Thank you

Growing up I never learned that I was not to just dig in and figure out how to do something.
I grew up with very little money, heck still don't have much. But I always wanted what the other boys had, so I found I had to build what I could.
Soon, as a freshman in HS all the kids with money were asking me to build what they could not buy since I now had neat stuff.
By 16yo I had boats, airplanes and cars which all had character.

So as we see with this project, decades back I saw the one picture of the surface drive on the yellow hull. I have wanted one for decades, late next year I will have it.

The CVX 20 hulls are quite different, The outboard has a rather deep Vee. I have been quite impressed how well it runs on top of 2-3' waves. Foot throttle only for me.

The jet hull is a shallow pad-Vee. The pad is 10 inch wide with the inner strakes only 1.5" or so above and reaching out to 20" wide. I expect the hull design is to lift the rather heavy 455 Olds engine at moderate speed.

I am looking forward to see how this drives with the lighter weight and far more efficient drive. Not to mention more power with stock vs stock engine.

[Instigator]

Similar story here.

The components in your equation look really good on the chalk board.




Thank you

Growing up I never learned that I was not to just dig in and figure out how to do something.
I grew up with very little money, heck still don't. But I always wanted what the other boys had, so I found I had to build what I could.
Soon, as a freshman in HS all the kids with money were asking me to build what they could not buy since I had neat stuff.
By 16yo I had boats, airplanes and cars which all had character.

So as we see with this project, decades back I saw the one picture of the surface drive on the yellow hull. I have wanted on for decades, late next year I will have it.

The CVX 20 hulls are quite different, The outboard has a rather deep Vee. I have been quite impressed how well it runs on top of 2-3' waves. Foot throttle only for me.

The jet hull is a shallow pad-Vee. The pad is wide with the inner strakes only 1.5" or so above. I expect the hull design is to lift the rather heavy engine at moderate speed.

I am looking forward to see how this drives with the lighter weight and far more efficient drive. Not to mention more power with stock vs stock engine.

[CharlieN]

Similar story here.

The components in your equation look really good on the chalk board.

Thank you, I think this will be fun.
I have no clue how close the prop will be for best performance, But I am sure it will get out of the hole and be fun.

[CharlieN]

Here are the drive components that are aft of the engine.
Start with the ZF 45A
https://i.imgur.com/rEIE1D4.jpg

This second shot it now has the mount brackets bolted up.
https://i.imgur.com/pKjDDe7.jpg

And with the front of the propshaft nearby. I have hardware arriving today to mate the shaft up, this will require machining to the alloy adapter as well.


https://i.imgur.com/s8g1WYr.jpg

On the back of the engine will be a Fidenza aluminum flywheel originally on a Vette, but now with the marine coupler for it's new life.
https://i.imgur.com/RI1TFEr.jpg

[CharlieN]

Today I worked on the propshaft adapter. It had 8 threaded holes but no functional way to mate it to the output flange.
What I chose to do was countersink all 6 of the submerged holes so I could install flathead allen bolts as captured studs. Two holes will accept conventional hex head fasteners.With this setup the adapter will be fixed to the transmission and the U-joint then gets attached during installation.
https://i.imgur.com/DVRgYZq.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/kJXLiCf.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/latl2vI.jpg

[Instigator]

You are making good headway on your design and engineering.

Well done sir!

[CharlieN]

Thank you, I am liking it.
I am thinking I want to move up my time to buy the engine. I am thinking of getting it in the shop so I can get going on the exhaust which will be quite time consuming as well as accessory mounts and drive, well it will be alternator only since the WP is crank driven. For the alternator I will run either a Denso or Mitsubishi unit for their compactness and reliability.

If I can buy a suitable oil sump that will save a bunch of work, probably a generic car sump.

Exhaust will be long tube headers, my plan will be unconventional, as if anything I build is. But Stainless inner tubes with aluminum outer. Should be interesting. Nothing radical, just unconventional.

[Instigator]

Perfect!


Nothing radical, just unconventional.

[CharlieN]

Picking away at indoor projects now that winter is making it clear that I can't play outdoors. I have finished roughing out the transmission mounting brackets.
https://i.imgur.com/vnMdHrG.jpg

And this morning a piece of Starboard arrived, some chip flew. And I now have a cover plate to close off the transom where the Berkeley jet was and now have a propshaft.
https://i.imgur.com/P2zIw5J.jpg

[CharlieN]

Decisions,decisions. I am getting in the mood to buy the engine rather than waiting. I am settled on a 2008ish GM L92, this being a truck alloy block 6.2L. These seem to be $3100 to 3900 in my region.
probably need to swap the oil sump to one from a car which are shallower. Kind of need to keep the crank centerline height in check.

I intend to run a trimmed down factory harness and ECM. Chevy gurus here say it is easy to turn off unneeded crap.

Water system, Crank driven sea water pump, deleted factory pump such that there will be some fabrication for thermostat and water manifolds.

I need to address both engine and transmission coolers. Nothing scary there.

Only belt on the motor will be driving the alternator, always the chance I go with a Danfoss helm and will need a power steering pump, I have a few compact pumps and small alternators here.

Now the next moderately expensive part, the exhaust. My intention has been to build my own long tube headers, but dang the material costs have gotten stupid. I was going to use stainless inner tubes with aluminum outer. Unless I am missing something just the raw material will be well over what the engine cost.
I might just buy a set of long tube fresh water jacketed headers. These will be about the same money as the engine cost wise. There are less costly options but why throw away horsepower or quality.

[CharlieN]

With little going on this week I have chosen to mount an aluminum plate on the mill and start making chips that will end up being the torque plate to mount the transmission to the engine.
I had made a CAD drawing from online sourced dimensions, done a pen layout on the plate. And now with the plate clamped on the mill it was playtime.
The layout was set on an angle with suitable dimensions as needed but as the chips started flying some of my misgivings started mounting up.
I am thinking with the main dowl holes and one block hole in place I will cut the plate down and mount to the mill through the dowel holes. This will let my aging mind keep a better perspective as I make chips.
I work with a kind of simple layout with a laptop set next to the DRO to guide my work.

https://i.imgur.com/aza4Bst.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/QxacVk4.jpg

[CharlieN]

I did not go much further with boring holes than the image above. When checking my layout for the top center hole I was not getting the warm and fuzzys, the DRO and neither the tape rule or machinist scale agreed with the hole location.
So I stood down, poured my evening whiskey and went over the drawing.Pulled the plate off the mill, cut around the perimeter so the piecework would not hang over the table to dang far.
All seemed fine and went back to it, but not for long, still not right. Back to the drawing.
Turns out I had a math error resulting in the centerline being 16mm off to the side, call that 5/8 off. A big error.
I had only drilled the top center hole and started the upper left when I did the stop work The error is clear where the mill was drilling next to my pen layout.

Dang glad I walked away.
Corrections in the drawing have been made, back to play.
https://i.imgur.com/RVggUU2.jpg

[CharlieN]

I have recovered from that mistake, thank golly I caught it early.
Having moved forward with through boring all the holes in smaller than finish sizes. Being many will be threaded I might just go ahead and finish them out.
With this last hole I can mount the plate on a rotary table and mill the hole for the transmission pilot.
One thing with correcting this mistake is the game the original layout plays on your mind with every hole I drilled while looking at the wrong drawing on the plate.

https://i.imgur.com/VKpiD5M.jpg

[Instigator]

I have learned on my projects, when I start making mistakes, it’s time to quit.

Normally I’ll come back the next morning w/the answer in my mind, correct last nights slip, and move forward at a high rate of speed.

Still loving your project.

Cant remember the last time there was a real, hot rod boat project thread on here.

Thank you sir and please carry on!

[CharlieN]

Thank you, To me these complex builds are what I like. Rarely is there anyone to turn to for design help. They are out there but I am not in reach of them. But to me I like to design what I own. Most everything I have is the only one in the world, cars, airplanes, boats. even the heat system in my house.
One example, I am building an airplane at this time as well. Here is the mostly done fuselage on display at a fly-in breakfast my wife and I hosted a few months back.
https://i.imgur.com/IaBF9jt.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/e0ebIth.jpg

And a track car, 900 lbs 300+ Hayabusa powered. The images of the chassis are long ago, look alike of an Elva MK7
https://i.imgur.com/9ktPlGz.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/hcF4uL2.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/rdxhCoq.jpg

I get bored with simple stuff

[LakeFever]

Yep. Design and fabrication is extremely satisfying work. What’s that saying? Theres no greater reward in life than to work hard at work worth doing. I think that’s it. Anyways great build im really enjoying seeing this come together

[CharlieN]

Yep. Design and fabrication is extremely satisfying work. What’s that saying? Theres no greater reward in life than to work hard at work worth doing. I think that’s it. Anyways great build im really enjoying seeing this come together

I like that, it is true for those of us who design and build.
It is a different life from those who have the resources to simply buy something. But what really got me going on the path I took was back in High School the rich boys got jealous that they could not have what I had. So they paid me to build or modify what they could not buy.
My company motto turned out to be "If it ain't broke, Modify it."

[CharlieN]

Good day in the shop, Plate pulled from the mill, small rotary table mounted up.
https://i.imgur.com/TFr4ccT.jpg

Rotary table back on the mill, 20 years ago I used to pick this up, dang those days are long gone.
https://i.imgur.com/swWmPSh.jpg

Plate mounted up for cutting the center out, humm never took a shot till I had cut through.
https://i.imgur.com/sJyIleu.jpg

The plate hung on the transmission, some cleanup to do still such as chamfering the edges of the cut.
https://i.imgur.com/u0Ltow1.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/7VThhGl.jpg

Plenty more to do but one more step partially done.

[CharlieN]

Might be my last step for the year, Today I started by powering up my 18" disc sander and rough dressing the outer edge.
https://i.imgur.com/Ex1Fy3R.jpg

Then mounted the plate back on the mill, took some time to verify I had it centered and with a flycutter finished boring the hole to properly fit the spigot of the transmission. Appears my camera never jumped into my hands during this multi hour cut. I aimed for a .005 clearance which feels good when mounted.
So here is the plate in place with the bolts in place.
https://i.imgur.com/k9HLSie.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/HgVpwJj.jpg

And the flywheel slid in place,
https://i.imgur.com/DzaUt6S.jpg

I now need to select the starter I will be using, I have a reverse drive Tilton in mind but it seems to be in a safe place, wherever that is.

At this point I can also determine the standoff height needed and fastener callout for mounting to the engine, which I will not have for some time still.

[Poky]

there was a guy near Slinger Wis, that was doing the same drive on a Donzi 22 classic years ago, I near saw how it turned out. It came up for sale this late fall, talked with him, it never got the engine mounted, So I'm very interested in seeing how your boat is going to perform once its done. And after reading your stuff, I definitely see that your going to finish it.

[CharlieN]

Interesting, I have not seen another one for many years. I have wanted one since before the internet, but had been away from boating for decades as well, spent my years restoring and building aircraft and building road race and rally cars. As I wound down on competition driving I realized that had been my advertising. So it is back to design/building aircraft and playing with boats.
I will try to find pics of that Donzi.

[CharlieN]

Looks like some photos above have dead links, need to look into that.
I have done so, appears I cleaned out what I thought were unused files in Imjur, Well they were in use.

[Poky]

I didn't keep a picture of it and I can't find the add anymore, It was out on face book marketplace. It was at a shop just outside of Allenton Wisconsin, a yellow donzi 22 classic. I think he had a bravo prop on it. I have some old Hot Boat Mags with adds for the drive in it. So I too always wanted to see one.

[CharlieN]

Cool, The Bravo conversion is the best tuning method I am aware of, for me it is financially out of reach.
I have quite a stack of hot boat mags but pot luck is I have the right era, curious if they have archives. My newest issues would be well over 20 Yrs.

[David - WI]

Looks like a different location, sorry.

[CharlieN]

I think I know where that Donzi would be

Interesting, very interesting

[Poky]

found it, and no bravo prop,
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1197963994402603/?referralSurface=messenger_lightspeed_banner&referralCode=messenger_banner
https://scontent-ord5-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t45.5328-4/314458962_5660985524009095_216208697024102727_n.jpg?stp=dst-jpg_s960x960&_nc_cat=103&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=c48759&_nc_ohc=SsATStNDPm8AX_M69o9&_nc_ht=scontent-ord5-1.xx&oh=00_AfCzXWBM5lq30Bslr1iYSAkpHDUWkvY2l3lrgIjyscjw_w&oe=63C2D9C2https://scontent-ord5-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t45.5328-4/312718670_5428437457269020_2518902116186571486_n.jpg?stp=dst-jpg_s960x960&_nc_cat=108&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=c48759&_nc_ohc=WTYwaS-xh-sAX_QBJpP&_nc_ht=scontent-ord5-1.xx&oh=00_AfDQmPBOZO2YLxaOe_BbRAL31PZMwKpeaZdS67oH-NmGmg&oe=63C29ADBhttps://scontent-ord5-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t45.5328-4/314473378_5247236328736944_6288427337066164806_n.jpg?stp=dst-jpg_s960x960&_nc_cat=101&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=c48759&_nc_ohc=v8CT23HvdkoAX_d64QY&_nc_ht=scontent-ord5-1.xx&oh=00_AfA84lGkJGspONo_KeQrSAHOeD8sfzJxCMJokOzWMOnOgw&oe=63C1FDB8

[CharlieN]

Dang that is clean, super sweet looking. Thank you for posting this.
I can't wait till I can paint the inside of mine, the black in mine just makes it look bad, filthy even after a day of washing.
Visually the prop looks the same as mine.

[CharlieN]

I sent a note to the seller, curious to hear his opinion about driving the boat. He possibly only had it to get the engine out of.

[Poky]

I talked with him, he said he never drove it with the new drive. I was trying to buy it from him before he removed the brovo drive. I would guess at that being 20 years ago

[CharlieN]

interesting he went through the expense and work involved to never run the boat.
I contacted him on farcebook, he was short with a very harsh attitude. My gut feeling is the boat will get scrapped.

[Poky]

yea, odd guy. He had a boat junk yard just outside of Allenton Wisconsin on Hwy 33, You can google map it and see it. Has some interesting stuff there, but never really interested in selling. Maybe just a boat hoarder? To be honest, your one of the few dreamers that finishes his dreams. Can't wait to see your boat finished.

[David - WI]

Hmm... that is the place I mentioned earlier, that's not where the Facebook photos were taken. It's about 3 miles west of Allentown next to a Citgo gas station.

514285

[Poky]

when I look at it years ago, it was sitting outside at that place across for the gas station. have you seen the cool boats sitting outside of Mauston on 82?

[David - WI]

when I look at it years ago, it was sitting outside at that place across for the gas station. have you seen the cool boats sitting outside of Mauston on 82?

I haven't been to Mauston in probably 30 years... but it's amazing what you see from the road if you're paying attention.

[CharlieN]

This kind of looks like progress, well it is a trial fitment at least. I needed to move some stored bits out of the shop so I can move my plane back in.
Other than the melting snow raining off the topside it was not bad out there.
First step was to hang the HDPE filler with the propshaft boot on the back of the hull for it't first trial fitting.
Then slide the propshaft though from the inside, the cutout from the removed jet drive is still open allowing me to work from the underside.
I then hung the prop and snugged the retaining nut as well.
For the first actual fitting I like it.

https://i.imgur.com/hpGwrNk.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/9fL7Dhv.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/4qhfcdh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/AjfZvLy.jpg

[LakeFever]

Moving right along. Looks fantastic

[Instigator]

Love the progress on a badd ass project!

Man, that prop looks like it came off a 40’ ferry!

[CharlieN]

I am so tempted to pull the cover and set the transmission in place so I can drill the mount holes but I really should wait till I buy the engine and mate it to the transmission.
One thing that might be good is I tentative have the original jet drive sold and is intended to be picked up this weekend. That will get me in reach to buying an engine.

[oldschoolltv]

Can’t wait for the video of it running, keep up the good work.

[CharlieN]

Thank you all, and I can't wait to be able to make that video.

[CharlieN]

Now that March is with us I really want to get back to work on this, not yet though. We have 18-20 inches of new snow and nowhere near the end that I can see. For us this is not big snow but it is just not quitting, We thought we had pawned off this weather to other regions but they gave it back. Heck I bought a new printhead for my large format plotter, Going on a week and UPS can not even offer tracking information. This is crazy. Photo taken through a window of the house.
https://i.imgur.com/KNaqZbF.jpg

[fatlenny]

I am looking at the photo of the prop and am wondering is that mounted on the shaft correctly? Looks like the lock nut dont have enough thread to even engage the nylon locking part of the nut.

[CharlieN]

I have not drawn the nut down. This prop draws in over two flats on a straight 1 1/4 shaft and it gets real tight. With the shaft not mated to the transmission I do not think I would have a jolly time getting it apart. So yes, your eyes are correct.

[CharlieN]

Nether my Pajero or my Superboat are enjoying the wait for the snow to go away, but they need to be patient since we have another foot or more coming over the next few days. Hard to think I just cleared the snow off them three days ago.
And neither of them are happy that I am indoors working on my airplane.
https://i.imgur.com/Payc095.jpg

[CharlieN]

I finally have something to show, this morning started out at 27F and it is in the high 60s and severe clear.
I made some last hour tweaks to the transmission/hull brackets, simply drilling a hole in the aft side of them that will be a hard point for a brace up to the upper mount for the drive which is the anchor point for the trim ram. Kind of needed since these hulls do not have a reinforced transom.
So I strapped the transmission under the bucket, bought it out and set it in place.
https://i.imgur.com/mcAMlkF.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/gAIRKgg.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/antiOvE.jpg

[CharlieN]

And sitting in place, the prop shaft studs are all in the output flange. Nice way to start my spring.
Now I need to find an alloy block 6.2 engine.
https://i.imgur.com/pQdYEfz.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/TgcYK3i.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/CjlAZQd.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/R63oMzQ.jpg

[CharlieN]

I have been picking away at this, just not taking the time to post anything.
This photo shows what the water level INSIDE the hull was for some period of time.
Surprisingly the stringers are good judging by core drillings I have taken.
The small areas of wood on the transom are 1/2 plywood and need replacing.
I intend to keep the flotation foam but the outside thin ply will be replaced, probably just wrapped with FG.
Still more to learn.
https://i.imgur.com/27OT4qw.jpg

[CharlieN]

I actually have been busy working on this, I really have.
A fair bit of detail work on mounting the outdrive, spending time locating the transmission. Still a bit flummoxed just what height the transmission should be. When I get the trans at a height the output joint looks just right, it looks like it lacks trim up. The shaft is pretty close to being inline with the hull pad. It might be right, might be wrong.
I can lower the transmission a bit if needed and might build this out to allow for the adjustment in the future as the sea trials commence.
I dug forward under the front deck and removed the aftermarket gas tank, a commercial plastic 24 gal tank.
Just imaging a 455 Oldsmobile at cruise power, what would they be, 10-12 GPH. No playing all day with this one.
My 87 CVX 20 outboard has a 32 gal aluminum tank, quite generous for the 225 Yamaha.
I have been thinking of building underfloor tanks, plural since I intend to keep the center stringer.
I have 6 to 7 feet length with 20ish with, minus the 1.5 center stringer. Might be the right thing to do.
That should keep an alloy LS 6.2 happy for hours. I estimate cruise consumption to be half what the Olds/ Berkley drive would suck down.

I also removed the instrument panel and all wiring to the back of the hull, quite a tangled rats nest.
Photos next time, I want to cook dinner now.

[CharlieN]

I still have water drooling out. These pics were just taken this morning, it was for the most part dry late yesterday. The flotation foam goes all the way back in the hull extensions which I intend to stay in place and I expect will be dribbling most all summer. But I am getting closer to understanding what needs rework and just how to carry the new loads into the hull.
This will involve determining how much structure to cut back and scarf in new structure. My test drillings are not finding soft or wet wood elsewhere. The transom will be getting a small area of a composite core down low and metal structure to carry loads forward.
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[CharlieN]

One of my next tasks will be closing off where I cut out the pump inlet. This is just flat pad about 10" wide. I will be molding in a cooling water inlet up and through the side wall of the removed tunnel. Possibly incorporate a water strainer as well but that might not be practical in the cramped location next to the transmission and under the long tube headers. There will also be a few structural tubes from the upper mount of the outdrive forward to the stringer, transmission mounts.

[CharlieN]

Cooling inlet,
I found this stainless tube on Ebay that I think is just right. It is 1" ID with a 1" NPT tread that I will install a ball valve into. The valve I have ordered has a 1" PEX outlet that I expect will feed a strainer. All of this is tucked down low under the transmission mount with long tube headers above. Not sure what I will have for room but I fancy the idea of the sea strainer in front of the engine.
This tube of all things is a performance exhaust pipe for a 9 to 13HP utility engine.

https://i.imgur.com/JoYsYl3.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/u5dt6dB.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/yShTNyV.jpg

[CharlieN]

Over the past few weeks I have been figuring out some details, Following the documents that came with the drive it appeared the transmission needed to be raised up a bit over 1 1/2". This makes some aspects easier. As such I chose to raise the drive up by altering the mounts rather that utilizing a spacer to lift the brackets.
Here is the transmission sitting where it appears it needs to be,
https://i.imgur.com/RbvAczo.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/CjrWkGY.jpg

The yellow strap is needed at this time since the transmission now floats on the soft mounts and will not be stable until the engine is added into the equation.

And two shots of the reworked brackets, the bracing is not complete, there will be an outer support welded in.
https://i.imgur.com/OBbEscM.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/RNGa5qj.jpg

[CharlieN]

I just spent a few hours fixing quite a few broken links to my photos. If I recall I maxed out my Imjur account and did not recognize what files were in use. I think I dumped many of the files used on this site. I think I have them fixed. Now we see if the account is maxed out again, I take away cat pictures next time.

[skialot2]

This is an awesome project. looks like a lot of work. But work is not really work if you are enjoying it. Good luck with it. I will be following. I believe you said it uses a 1 1/2" propshaft. Could you have that machined to a standard Mercury spline? That would open up a good selection of surface running props.

[aj06bolt12r]

Over the past few weeks I have been figuring out some details, Following the documents that came with the drive it appeared the transmission needed to be raised up a bit over 1 1/2". This makes some aspects easier. As such I chose to raise the drive up by altering the mounts rather that utilizing a spacer to lift the brackets.
Here is the transmission sitting where it appears it needs to be,
https://i.imgur.com/RbvAczo.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/CjrWkGY.jpg

The yellow strap is needed at this time since the transmission now floats on the soft mounts and will not be stable until the engine is added into the equation.

And two shots of the reworked brackets, the bracing is not complete, there will be an outer support welded in.
https://i.imgur.com/OBbEscM.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/RNGa5qj.jpg

Keep cranking brother.. This is a cool project, enjoying following along!

[CharlieN]

I believe you said it uses a 1 1/2" propshaft. Could you have that machined to a standard Mercury spline? That would open up a good selection of surface running props.

1 1/4 shaft with flats to drive the prop.
I have recently been in contact with a few guys that have, or had this drive , most interesting has been the builder of the Yellow boat that has been my inspiration for this project.
He ran a built 406 SB, probably 100HP or so more than I expect to have, his had a 28P, he blew into the triple digits real quick, couldn't say how fast it topped at, no GPS and no desire to look down. He feels he never did actually top it out.

My prop is stamped 33.

[CharlieN]

Water pickup, revisited, I want to get the inlet plumbing up into site and in reach. Also up where I can install a serviceable sea strainer should I choose to. Instead of running low inside the stringer I bored a hole through allowing the hard line to get over to the side wall of the flotation box. I then added a 1 1/4 ball valve right at the entrance bulkhead. It has been a few variations leading up to this, I think I like it. I am sure it will change though as I go forward.
https://i.imgur.com/x1vvLkR.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/aBmfFVk.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/TxjXFlp.jpg

[CharlieN]

The images above were not viewable to me as a direct upload so I am linking to Imgur which might not be right for others.

[CharlieN]

Steering, Over the past month I have been plumbing the steering, I mounted the helm back in May
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This might be an oddity that is important to me with 50 years of performance and competition driving and flying it is important that the steering wheel, or helm in this case, the spokes need to be level. So in my boats I install a valve under the panel that allows the wheel to be rotated without moving the outboard or in this case rudders, I can open this while running as well.
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From there back the tubes are straight forward with bulkhead fittings through the transom and hoses back from there.
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[CharlieN]

Oh I have been bad about keeping this thread updated. Reality is I have been putting hours in but not much to show until now. Last Friday I did a day long drive to fetch an L92 this being the 2008 alloy block 6.2 truck engine. It has a rather salt encrusted block but the yard did a great job of pulling the engine harness as well as the under dash wire harness which is where the control relays are.
A Phosphoric acid bath will clean it up.
I spent some time removing the EX manifolds, sadly the studs on one side all broke, they felt brittle such that they snapped with no warning. I will deal with them over the winter. So much for the penetrant I sprayed on them the day before.
I chose to turn the intake around since I will have allot more room over the transmission for the 4" ducting.
Since this uses an electric throttle pedal there are no issues with the cable path. Only the ZF transmission needs a cable.
Only big need for this install was swapping The deep oils sump for a shallow Camero sump, This fits my need perfectly, to bad they could not send me the proper oil suction tube, An aftermarket pickup tube is on the way and is a considerably simpler and efficient design. Pictures when the engine is back on the stand to work on it.

As it arrived and first mounted on the stand, I had swapped to the Fidenza aluminum flywheel before bringing the engine in.
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Harness removed and reversed the intake
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Ready to play, I wish I had an oil filter with the proper thread here, this engine has been drooling ever since I swapped the sump.
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[CharlieN]

I then ended the day with the fun part, the first trial fitting.
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I had removed the factory mounts after I first set the engine in place, they looked like the wrong thing, then decided to remount them. They set right over the stringers, at this time with 1" spacers but I expect they might be right down to the stringers later today.
For now, a shot looking down from the rear.
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This is all for now, another post later today.
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[89LASER]

I've been following your posts, your work is coming out great. Keep on posting pictures with the narrative.

[CharlieN]

I will be getting back here, the past month was nuts. Between a low level of customer work, I am retired now so it is specialty favor tasks, My toys, this project but my wife and I host aviation events, most all were rained out this year but damned if we loose our fall fly-in breakfast, we need that financially and I'll be damned if we loose all our youth events this year due to weather, heck the rain dates were all rained out.
This boat project is outdoors, under a very good canopy but it has it's limits.
Over the past month I did a full day road trip to collect an L92 engine, this being a Cadillac, and many other L92, 6.2L truck engine. This is a full aluminum block/heads, 403 rated HP. I got it with the full engine harness as I requested. Very nice kit for $2300.
Within two days I had the aluminum Fidenza flywheel, intended for a C5 Corvette with a Mercruiser flexplate. All this combination is the lightest and most efficient I can muster up with my financial limits.
As of today I did allot of development work on this project by setting the engine in place and now the engine with a huge bundle of wires lumped on it is back indoors for me to splice a few hundred wires.
I also will design, and machine, fabricate all the water cooling system, the commercially available ones I do not consider suitable for cold weather operation. So I will build my own water system with a more suitable thermostat operation utilizing the single crank driven pump.

Another aspect I am stumbling on, It was my intention to build long tube headers, stainless EX tubes with aluminum outer jackets. Turns out over the recent years the suppliers I work with have all lost their sources for formed tube and what little they can source are stupid money.
I am not sure I can source stainless and aluminum in the same bend radius. Even Burns is offering very little now.
Heck I might be forced to settle for Chinese cast EX manifolds if I can even find anything decent in Aluminum for less money than my full project cost will be.
More later.

[David - WI]

Is this a "closed" cooling system? I‘m not sure you can run an aluminum car motor very long without anti-freeze to prevent corrosion?

[CharlieN]

This is an open cooling system. For the 5 to 10 days a year this will be on fresh water there will be no issue. In the world of road racing we can not use any additives in our cooling systems and have never seen any issue in the near 50 years I have been working and running.
Have you had any problem with old outboards? I mean older than you are. They were crude alloys and are still running. The aluminum used in engine blocks and heads have rather high silicone content as well as many other alloys. If you look at the photos of my engine you will see the outside of this engine lived in salt water, it is from the streets in the winter, you must have never heard about this.
Lake water will not and can not rot out an engine.

[Poky]

I'm impressed your still working on your project. Like you, life just keeps happening, my project hasn't been touch at all this year short of pulling the seats out. I look at it as I walk past it.

and yes, as you said with cooling, my all aluminum outboards seem to do just fine with lake water cooling them.

[David - WI]

I'm impressed your still working on your project. Like you, life just keeps happening, my project hasn't been touch at all this year short of pulling the seats out. I look at it as I walk past it.

and yes, as you said with cooling, my all aluminum outboards seem to do just fine with lake water cooling them.

Different alloys and cooling system designs specifically for that reason, but go on with your bs.

Also, most people running aluminum engines on racetracks are using deionized water and something like Redline's Watter Wetter to avoid corrosion issues.

[CharlieN]

I will be getting back to posting on this project.
Allot of external work has has been done on the engine, I spent a few hundred hours + trimming and splicing the factory wire harness. The harness included the full environmental system as well a transmission and transfer case control. Heck all wheel speed sensors went into this. I have taken about 300 photos and need to pick what will present this the best.

[Poky]

for the wiring, I thinking that is way better to go with a aftermarket engine control system. there is just some much there as you pointed out that you just don't need. and then to dig thru the HP software and all the things you need to shut off is just a pain. Its much easier and a better used of time to just buy a system that just controls the engine and send out basic out put signals. I think its the one spot that I can justifies spending the way extra money.

[CharlieN]

No, I have no interest in the aftermarket wire harnesses, they are made for cars, not boats. Their harness will not allow the ECM to be where it will be in my hull. They still feel the need to useless stuff like radiator fans. Most of those harness are all made for automatic transmissions.
Just because you are incapable of this work does not make it difficult for me. It is just going on 54 years I have been building custom wire harnesses. These have been for industrial machine control, aircraft and automotive as well as wiring houses.
Wiring is the easy stuff. Just time consuming.

[LakeFever]

The only issue with the gen4 oem controllers is the canbus is looking for a lot of feeds from all systems in order to operate properly. It sounds as if you have this figured especially with the vss feeds being worked into your rig. What camshaft are you running?

[CharlieN]

I have two guys who have a reflash that takes the complexities away. Basically make it a simple system yet keeps the fine control that is available within the system.

Good chance I am wrong too.

[CharlieN]

I overlooked the camshaft question, I am starting with the original cam. Once I have data and a feel for this package I will determine if any change needs to be made. This is an L92, this does not have modular displacement as the L94 and later engines have.
Everywhere I post this I am told I must change the cam, I look at specs and the suggested cams look to be for more top end power. Pretty useless when this is expected to cruise 80+ at 4K revs. This from the owner of the yellow surf drive conversion who says his boat pulled through 100 very quick and ran 120 once, and only once, he had a few hundred more ponies than I will.

[CharlieN]

Being retired from my 53+ years of custom fabrication work in Aviation and Road race cars I have allot more time available although I am on a limited budget I was finding nice alloy marine exhaust would cost me more than the boat, the surface drive and engine together.
I also find these days most all of my resources for a wide selection of tube in a wide variety of bend radius such that I can match the inner and outer tubes especially where I wanted STL inner and Aluminum outer.
So I chose to buy these $100 Chinese street rod headers for the base to build from.
Turns out they are impressively well made.
Once the WX allows me to get the driveline sitting in the hull again I will build the through hull elbows and fit the inner risers.
This opens up many hours more work.

Humm the image host I have been using has changed their interface, I need to relearn how to get my images here.

[CharlieN]

I figured out the changes to getting the images up here, I think a big part of the issue is my aging. And well trying to live with Long Covid eating my brain.

[CharlieN]

A short bit ago I wrote about my image site issues, but no. I have been using Imgur for many years and in recent months I can not log in. Late last year I got a warning of low memory so I deleted a few hundred images, yet recently I can not log on their site, just a black screen.

I am making headway, recently starting on building the hull wire harness, nothing special other than the 7 wires for the throttle pedal. That cable is on the kitchen table. With WX coming in it will be an indoor day so some shopping uptown and play with wires.

I need to find a different Image host as well.

[CharlieN]

Bit of an update, the hull is upside down, I am concentrating on closing in the hull where the jet drive used to be. A bit slow at this point since some of my power tools are missing since my last bad customer cleaned my shop out while we were not here. This being the real reason I have retired.
As I progress I will start getting photos posted again.

I mentioned above that I have Long Covid, A few days ago I was in Dartmouth Hospital for a full day getting a serious scan done. It is not Covid eating at me but Parkinson's disease. There are a number of mutations of this. The info they developed has been sent to Boston for analysis.
The good thing is once they determine which of the seven strains I have they feel I am not outside the curable window. I will have some level of permanent impairment and it will be awhile till they determine If I can pass a flight medical so that side on my life may be gone, I am part way through building my 7th and last airplane, damn It was coming along nice too.
533842

[Poky]

sorry for your new heath issue. It sucks to have life get in the way of a fun project. I'm forced retired, (also from heath issues) It makes retirement, not what you would think its suppose to be. You definitely have the right attitude.

[CharlieN]

sorry for your new heath issue. It sucks to have life get in the way of a fun project. I'm forced retired, (also from heath issues) It makes retirement, not what you would think its suppose to be. You definitely have the right attitude.

Thank you,
This is a interesting, weird "disability"
On technical tasks I seem fine. Working with tools, power or hand tools is as natural as ever.

Hearing sounds are normal although I have stopped listening to music.

Conversation is a major issue yet spotty in ways. I can get confused with a normal conversation yet hours in the hospital yesterday I could have a good technical conversation and minutes later I am not able to understand what they are saying yet it is a simple topic. I truly need my wife by my side.

I have been driving and boating over 50 years. Heck I started flying in 1972. I flew a bit last year, might be able other than radio work.
I had been sick, the beginning of this late last summer into the fall, I have chosen to not drive other than plowing snow through the winter.

Today the hospital sent an itinerary for the next 3 weeks. They are really going after this, they formed an idea a week ago, it will be interesting to learn just where they will go.
I am also grateful my wife works at home and has some freedom with current clients since we can be gone from the house for 10+ Hrs as yesterday was.
I am scared though.
I do not scare easy.
CN

[Poky]

Yea, I always take my wife with me to the doctors. I miss a lot of info, or don't remember what to say. If someone gets me talking about tech, I do great. But I don't remember my last vacation, or last week really. So I sit and stare at my boat, and don't remember how to fix it. But like you said, if I start working on it, I know how to do it. but don't remember how to do it.

[CharlieN]

Yes, bingo
My mind has failed on this recently but they said, "You have been through this before, but you just do not remember it"

It is intriguing how our intellect works

[LakeFever]

Sorry to hear about the challenges ahead and your tools gone too that’s lousy. Good to see the boat still moving forward though. Take er easy as she goes it sounds like you’re well in front of this and in good hands. Wishing you all the best thorough your recovery

[CharlieN]

I will try to get an update on the boat project I am waiting till mid week to get a dado cutter router bit for machining a tapered relief for the fill panel to close the bottom of the hull.
My compact router has gone into hiding as well so I am not sure if I et this step done this upcoming week.
The best I can tell this is the only true "work" to get done on the underside and it must be done right.

I also need to wet sand the full underbelly with 1000 grit, this will be a full day or more.
More later

[CharlieN]

I wish I had coerced my wife to get a few pictures, she was mowing the lawn which is knee deep from all the rain, while I was playing. I put on the full vapor suit and fired up the breathing air supply. I used a 4 1/2 coarse grit flap disk and like what I have done. Now I am ready for when the cutting wheel arrives.

[Poky]

so what are you going to use to fill in the hole from the jet pump? I was thinking of making a fiber glass part off the boat. or maybe cut a section out of another boat and then graft it in.

[CharlieN]

I am using 3/8 fiberglass sheets. These will be cut as needed, the longer narrow one will slide into a milled grove machined with a 14 Deg Dado cutter. " Not in house yet, I think it is shipped from China even though it was listed being in Chicago." This will be bonded with Vinyl Ester resin with additional glass from the inside.
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The rear face will have a 3/8 FG panel as well. The second image above is my proof of concept panel that I made from HPDE last fall. I am tending towards threaded fasteners with sealant utilizing the fastener holes from the original Berkeley drive. This will allow decent access to the universal joint and related fasteners. I am going to try to be a good boy and get allot of images.

[Poky]

so your going to leave it as a flat pad? I always debated if you should run the V farther back and make a smaller pad. Kind of the same issue with converting a V bottom to a jet. How to transition from the V to a large flat for the pump. You know, the things you think about when you can't sleep

[CharlieN]

This is a pad V hull, it has a 10" wide pad with a gentle rise with a 4" pad just 2" above the bottom. There is no Vee to extend back and I and many other people have pad V hulls for a reason. It would also be very rare to find a jet drive hull that has a full V. I expect a few rough/white water hulls might.

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[Poky]

ok, that picture make way more sense. I wonder what they did on the few donzi 18 foot classic with jet drives.

[CharlieN]

I have not been aware of those,
I will try to find them once I finish up. I am making more progress and realized I did not bring my camera down to my work area.

[CharlieN]

I see a few write ups of the 18 Donzi with conversions, I will read about them when I finish up for the day.

[Poky]

I thought there were 3 donzi 18 classics made with 454 big blocks. old boats, the one I saw had a big windshield on it. like the few 22 classic outboards. I chased donzi 22 classic for years, these are just boats for sale that I came past looking for the perfect 22, I never found one.......

[CharlieN]

Please, I have NO interest in old Donzi's. I would like to keep this thread on topic. Could you take the Donzi's elsewhere. FWIW Donzi is a company that went bankrupt, years later a marketing person bought the hollow shell of a company just for the name, some molds were sold off but very few. FWIW there are only 11 Donzi boats registered for use in NY and NE states. 7 of them in NY.

[Poky]

No problem, just asking questions. Good Luck with your surface drive.

[CharlieN]

I thought I would be writing about bonding the filler panel in at the rear of the running surface. Yesterday I finally accepted that I had not formed the slots in the panel to scoop cooling water. I thought I would have the panel ready today but with a hot humid day I have not finished the task. This needs to be completed first.

[CharlieN]

A week of bad weather and four hospital visits, well 5th one today I have not progressed much. The panel that will close in the bottom is 90% ready. I cut water inlet grooves to feed the water pump and developed a scoop to add on later should the flush design not be sufficient. Another 3-4 Hrs in a hospital tomorrow, that is not including the 3.5 hrs travel. So I will not make progress again. Heck I can not even get the radiator in my wife's car, thank golly for a neighbor who loaned this crazy Black awd big HP Chrysler utility rig. It can scoot.

[CharlieN]

I have done some work and am almost finished closing up the hull where the pump inlet was. Some other tasks like a lower coolant hose on my wife's car blew out and is a bit pesky to change not to mention source locally, parts are in and almost back together, other than the blowoff valve bypass hose went into hiding. I am now thinking it dropped into the grass under the car, but the grass is now 8+ inches high and the car has 4" ground clearance and is not where I can jack it up.. Pesky task. Not to mention I have been in doctors offices almost daily and the hospital my new to me doctor uses is a 4+ Hr drive and my visits are commonly 2+ hrs. I do say this new doctor is trying to keep me alive. But my hands shake as well as my head, try TIG welding when you hands are quivering.
But I have made progress, I am one or two work sessions from turning the hull upright. That will be a happy day. I will try to get some photos posted later.

[CharlieN]

Car is done, back to the boat tomorrow, There has been some kids coming around stealing tools, they stole hundreds of dollars of tools I need. Guess I can not leave anything outside overnight anymore. I know who they are now but our wonderful police will do nothing. I have replacements on the way. But I should be able to get by with the last filling to do where I have been working since I can use a 10 foot length of 1" box tube to guide my last filling and sanding on the underside. I will get to this in the morning.

[CharlieN]

This will be an image file dump from recent work done,
Bottom filler panel made from 3/8 fiberglass flat panel.
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Rear panel also machined from flat FG stock,
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The rear and bottom panels fitted in place,
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A closer view of the lower panel fitted in place, I used a 14deg router bit around the perimeter and shaped the panel to fit, the panel is also slotted to allow for the cooling water inlet,
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Now the lower panel is bonded into the hull, this was a very happy step to achieve. The rear panel is not bonded in yet, that will be done once the hull is upright. I have some filler work to do first.
534849

[CharlieN]

I have been frustrated with near constant humidity in the upper 90% range, 98% at this time. Just not getting sessions to prep and layup. Forecast is for rain in 3 hrs or so. Guess I should pull the hull out from the canopy and wet sand the hull. Got to do that sometime. The areas I have done looks nice.

[89LASER]

Sorry to hear about all your doctors visits. I've been following your build and your work looks great. I hope you catch a break soon between the weather and your doctor visits.

[CharlieN]

Thank you, damn roller coaster I am on. The superb lady doctor that has been doing well with has been transferred to Boston to train and climb the ladder, she called us at home to say so. She has transferred me to her supervisor so my health issues should get figured out.

I really wanted to do some structural filling this week where I am working on the bottom, Dang 96% humidity the past few days, This resin is limited to 80% for use.
I was sanding the oxidized surface under the bow, time to get back to it.

[CharlieN]

I can get updated a bit, My neighbors hang around in my front yard and keep an eye on me while I work, nice kids.
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Early today I spread some more filler, this is Vinyl Ester thickened with Cabosil,
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And from the rear, the aft panel is bolt in where to original jet pump was.
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I will do a session with a longboard and determine where more filler needs to go. This will remain linearly textured as recommended early in this project, I have not recently found her post to thank her.

After I am done here it is to sand the full running surface followed with turning the hull upright. Well I guess polishing the sides of the hull as well.

[CharlieN]

Looks like this tread is dead. Someone with a grudge hit my profile and wiped my profile out. I know who it is but not much I can do about it. He hit my Facebook account shortly before this.

[CharlieN]

Update, I feel I have completed the underside of the hull. Appears it is time to roll the hull upright. We have rain coming tomorrow but I will try to get rigged to do so or possibly wait for a friend to get some time to bring equipment over as he did in the spring.

[CharlieN]

I have the hull upright after a few months belly up. I did some cleanup inside the hull. I even started taking some photos that do not look the same as the previous ones I taken recently. Tomorrow I will do a quick clean on the hull brackets for the engine mounts. I want to get some decent pain but have not drilled the holes to line up with the existing through bolts in the stringers yet, expect to set the engine in place. This will allow me to get back to the exhaust system and other functions.
For some reason we have been blessed with great weather so maybe I should just keep going.

[CharlieN]

I clearly need to get on this site more,
I just had a "moment" worth laughing about.
I wanted to know how this boat sits in the water,
I feel I am far enough along to launch the boat on my own pond so I could learn how it will sit.
Well that did not work well. The pond level gets low late in the year.
Many years back with a hurricane and a rather nasty summer storm had flooded some higher land with a similar "fire" pond to mine washing allot of invasive growth/weeds down to our yard.
In recent years the shallower end where I launch now gets mucky, oh OK muddy. Used to be a good firm sandy beach.
So this morning I backed the boat in, well part way, The boat was getting into the invasive reeds while not looking like it would not float off, so I chose to drive out, Well what looks like sand is now quicksand. The rear tires on my little Montero just sunk in the quicksand. This one does not have the triple locking diffs.
My wife called a friend and he said he would be here in 20 minutes. Heck he has 10 employees who are known to get real lazy when he goes offsite.
Even his big dually Dodge was getting it's share spinning wheels on the lawn. Of his 7 dually
Dodges this is the only one without triple lockers.
When we got my rig up from the pond we walked back to look, on the shallow slope the hull had water up to the bow.
Turns out when I backed in, the stern was in deep enough the openings for the exhaust were talking in water. By the time we were pulling this the hull had sunk down onto the trailer. I think the partially built headers were still above the water but that is the first check I need to make.
All this fun, none of us used a camera, dang it, I hate missing the stupid moments.

[NICE PAIR]

Congratulations! I've done lots of dumb **** that I wanted my own pics of, why is it I never have a camera but everybody else does?
Neat project! :thumbsup:

[CharlieN]

One thing I came to realize the past few days was the hull was essentially floating properly but the garden hose connector for the engine flush port was not snugged up, just enough to lower the stern for the exhaust openings to settled into the water.
The bare wood I need to coat/glass over was dry enough that I could get coating and getting glassing, but now with wet wood and rain arriving tomorrow I will have no progress for some time. Not to mention I have other stuff I need to do with the change of season soon.

[CharlieN]

No progress on this over the past month, but I am clearing indoor space to bring this project into my basement shop, I dream to have this indoors by the holidays.

[CharlieN]

I have the boat in the basement. Kind of interesting backing a big dually Dodge uphill in 8-10 hardpack old snow. I might choose to remove the tongue of the trailer which will give me a few more feet of workspace back at the drive. I have no photos, My friend's wife might have some on her phone.

[CharlieN]

Kind of nice to have it inside the shop. Workbenches are crazy cluttered, they got piled on all year since that was not where my jobs were. Time will clear them I have allot to do still.
A shot over the transom, one of my most important area to progress. I have not bought all the exhaust tubing.
Originally I was going to build a stainless header with aluminum water jacket. But with most of the material sources gone since they were ether aging out or simply squashed by the Chinese.
As such the header design is changing. I have been trying to source decent aluminum marine marine exhaust, non that I see are performance oriented.
This engine will be spinning up much higher than a ski boat or fishing boat.
Here are some with the engine sitting on it's mounts.

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More later

[89LASER]

Damn!!!! I wish I had a basement to work in over the winter. I've been following this build since I have a Glastron/Carlson in my collection. I like the work you've been doing.

[CharlieN]

Humm December flew buy, I got a small amount of time to start the engine enclosure. I am using Laminators Inc Alumalite panels for the sidewalls.
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We had a house full of friends for the holiday but but one of the wives carried on about their overall win of the of the one Lap of America, Nice to hear since I have been building their competition cars for 15 years now. I needed to get away and made this.
I then moved up front with making the side panel for shifter.
The shifter itself I made since anyone I found online was way out of my reach price wise.
This image is one of the first in 2025,
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I will be running a foot throttle which utilizes a light 7 conductor wire.
The bracket for this has not been made yet now that the house is empty.

[CharlieN]

We had the afternoon of New years day alone so I pulled some plywood in from the fresh foot of snow outside the shop. For the most part they were trimmed to fit already except for the supports for the rear seat back. Once I trimmed those spots I set the floor in place.
It is kind of nice in there now. The outer sections will be foamed underneath.
The center bay will have the gas tanks, for now I am installing the cheapy 22 gal plastic tank that came in the hull.
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[CharlieN]

I have an interesting issue with taking photos at this time.
My Cannon SX60 camera stopped taking photos, the image count is maxed out at 9999 so it is possible it just can not label the image, yet it rolled the counter over and was working the past few months since.
Last night I dug out my newest SX70 and it does recognize this year.
To me it is nowhere as good as the 60 is but it is what I have.

[CharlieN]

Lucky me for owning more than one camera, I thought I was going to need to use the newer SX70 but I realized I still have a few SX60s. This way I can continue taking shots without a break in the image number.
I have started mocking up and building the exhaust.
The headers I bought are some Chinese Street rod parts with a center drop.
The LS engine has symmetrical ports allowing he to turn the pipes facing upwards.
Originally they had 3 bolt outlet flanges, I machined them off.
The metric outlet size is ideal fit to weld a 2.5" tube onto.
This will have a 3" outer tube for the water jacket. The 4 tubes of the header will get a 2 1/4 stainless Outer jacket formed over them.
These shots are a proof of concept of how it will fit to the through hull thimbles. The EX will exit where the factory EX for the 455 Olds engine pipes were.

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[NICE PAIR]

Are you gonna jacket the exh. port tubes or wrap them? Nice work!

[CharlieN]

Jacketed.
A real pia since I can no longer source different size tubes with the same bend radius.

[CharlieN]

Are you gonna jacket the exh. port tubes or wrap them? Nice work!

I have 2.25od stainless bends here that I will fabricate the outer wall of the header.
from the Collector the inner tube is 2 1/2, outer is 3" as seen in this mockup.

Frustrating that I can no longer find the two sizes for the collector in the same radius. Since the outer tube as displayed would look like poo with a bunch of pie cuts the inner tube is getting sliced and welded as needed.
There will be a rubber connector between the engine and hull pipes.

The engine pipes need Wideband O2 sensors as well

[NICE PAIR]

You sure ain't Skeered ;). again, Nice work!

[25two.stroke]

You going to have a rigid pipe from the engine all the way to the transom?

[CharlieN]

3 piece semi ridged.
The system is based on a set 4 into 1 shorty headers, Chinese made in lord knows what Stainless alloy, works like 304, they spark out like a 3 series, these have a 2 1/2 outlet, originally a 3 bolt flange which I removed.
Welded onto this outlet will be a 2 1/2 tube with about a 110-120 deg 5" radius curve, I found one Piece of this tube yesterday on Ebay, this is on the way to me now. Only one I have seen since Burns was last in business.
I previously was working with a 4" radius inner with 5" radius outer. This required many pie slices to weld.

539435

All of this will be encased with a 3" stainless water jacket which is the 5"R I need to make the inner to match..
I expected a few weeks work to form and weld all of this.
There will be provision for two O2 sensors on each side. These being 1" wideband for the factory injection and a set for my datalogging for use during tuning.
These shots are the current "proof of concept"

The original inner tube cut allowing me to open up the 4" radius to match the 5" outer.
Yesterday, the Gods were nice to me, One piece of 2 1/2 with 5"R showed up on Ebay, it was posted 1/2hr before my mid day log on, Buy it now. I had it paid for in miniutes.
So I am under a short delay but save me a week of welding as well as a bottle of Argon.

The downtube will go to the original hull openings, this had a 455 Olds engine utilizing 2 7/8 exhaust.

The original inner tube cut allowing me to open up the 4" radius to match the 5" outer.
Yesterday, the Gods were nice to me, One piece of 2 1/2 with 5"R showed up on Ebay, it was posted 1/2hr before my mid day log on, Buy it now. I had it paid for in miniutes.
So I am under a short delay but save me a week of welding as well as a bottle of Argon.


539432 539433 539434
The original inner tube cut allowing me to open up the 4" radius to match the 5" outer.
Yesterday, the Gods were nice to me, One piece of 2 1/2 with 5"R showed up on Ebay, it was posted 1/2hr before my mid day log on, Buy it now. I had it paid for in miniutes.
So I am under a short delay but save me a week of welding as well as a bottle of Argon.

[CharlieN]

I got a bit done with actual exhaust parts.
Clearly not finished but is a very good trail fitting with actual parts.
One tricky part will be the O2 sensor bungs. These need to pass through the outer wall and I am pretty darn sure welded to both tubes. I have ideas but nothing calling out what is best.

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[CharlieN]

My next step is roughing out the outer tube on the right side of the engine. I am liking how this fits. More to do when material arrives. It seems suppliers are no longer in a hurry to ship material.

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[NICE PAIR]

3 piece semi ridged.
The system is based on a set 4 into 1 shorty headers, Chinese made in lord knows what Stainless alloy, works like 304, they spark out like a 3 series, these have a 2 1/2 outlet, originally a 3 bolt flange which I removed.
Welded onto this outlet will be a 2 1/2 tube with about a 110-120 deg 5" radius curve, I found one Piece of this tube yesterday on Ebay, this is on the way to me now. Only one I have seen since Burns was last in business.
I previously was working with a 4" radius inner with 5" radius outer. This required many pie slices to weld.

539435

All of this will be encased with a 3" stainless water jacket which is the 5"R I need to make the inner to match..
I expected a few weeks work to form and weld all of this.
There will be provision for two O2 sensors on each side. These being 1" wideband for the factory injection and a set for my datalogging for use during tuning.
These shots are the current "proof of concept"

The original inner tube cut allowing me to open up the 4" radius to match the 5" outer.
Yesterday, the Gods were nice to me, One piece of 2 1/2 with 5"R showed up on Ebay, it was posted 1/2hr before my mid day log on, Buy it now. I had it paid for in miniutes.
So I am under a short delay but save me a week of welding as well as a bottle of Argon.

The downtube will go to the original hull openings, this had a 455 Olds engine utilizing 2 7/8 exhaust.

The original inner tube cut allowing me to open up the 4" radius to match the 5" outer.
Yesterday, the Gods were nice to me, One piece of 2 1/2 with 5"R showed up on Ebay, it was posted 1/2hr before my mid day log on, Buy it now. I had it paid for in miniutes.
So I am under a short delay but save me a week of welding as well as a bottle of Argon.


539432 539433 539434
The original inner tube cut allowing me to open up the 4" radius to match the 5" outer.
Yesterday, the Gods were nice to me, One piece of 2 1/2 with 5"R showed up on Ebay, it was posted 1/2hr before my mid day log on, Buy it now. I had it paid for in miniutes.
So I am under a short delay but save me a week of welding as well as a bottle of Argon.Awesome work, check your argon for leaks, you seem to be stuttering. ;)

[CharlieN]

Exhaust again,
I spent a bit of time searching last week and found a company offering a good selection of different radius bends.
Previously stated the outer tube is a 5" radius which I purchased an inner u bend for, I started paying a bit more attention and actually measured what I had, it is a 4" radius.
I recently found a company out west that offers a large selection of bends in different radius, placed an order late Friday and the tube arrived Tuesday.
I bought a single 180 Degree tube, cut it in half knowing I need about 200 deg of arc. As such I cut a couple of sections off my original segmented tubes such that I will add what is needed to make the tailpipes.
This is the new inner ready to weld.

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[CharlieN]

Awesome work, check your argon for leaks, you seem to be stuttering. ;)

To make a short story long, I have a medical issue caused by a very heavy handed Chiropractor who I never once allowed to touch my neck, but he did anyway doing a very hard rotational set resulting in dislocation of my spinal C7 joint resulting in hearing and comprehension issues. C7 is mid-lower neck.
As well as I now live with Tinnitus ringing in my head all year long, 24 Hrs a day,

As such a few years back I essentially retired, as in closing my welding/fabrication business.

My wife hates this boat project and wishes I would keep building an aircraft I have a few years into.
I stopped work on this plane due to the neck injury.

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539674
I have been active in aviation since the late 60's and I will be active flying again once winter goes away, I live in Vermont but grew up in Conn. where A long time friend is offering me to get current as a pilot again with the use of his two planes for the cost of gasoline and maintaining them, something that is financially beyond my reach where I live even though my wife and I head an EAA flying club.
Obviously if I finished this plane, this is my 7th airplane I have designed and built for what it's worth, I would be flying for the cost of Non-Ethanol gas, same as this boat will live on.
But heck I now will have use of two planes that are 60 miles away, I will take over the yearly maintenance and bring my own fuel down.

[NICE PAIR]

Sorry for your problems! You Have Come Far Pilgrim! Would love to see the airplane, Attachment would not open. :thumbsup:

[CharlieN]

Maybe they might be here
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[NICE PAIR]

:thumbsup:

[CharlieN]

I had some time to myself and was productive with the exhaust, granted I did not pick up the camera until done with the session, this will all be taken apart again.
The inner tubes for the time being are not perforated for quieting, this can be done before final welding. The exhaust exits inside the drive housing. I might decide to buy some more rubber EX hose and wrap the cut away section such that I can alter the insides of these pipes. Time will tell.

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[CharlieN]

Since yesterday I have extended the vertical section of the front of the left side tailpipe, this equalizes each side as well as a more even water flow between the sides.
I need to wrap the inner pipes with a water soluble spacer for welding, I will not be able to go back inside again. I do not have this temporary spacer figured out yet. Anyone with logical ideas pleas chime in.
539860

[89LASER]

What about wet sand? Like sand casting to hold it to the center and flush it out after?

[David - WI]

Couldn't you just drill & tap a few 1/8" holes in the outer pipe... and run in some little screws to center on the inner the pipe?

[CharlieN]

I have been giving thought to both as well as other options such as small welded wire/tabs or plaster tabs.
My belief is the screws would be best allowing for adjustment.
I am thinking they will be just forward of the cut out section.
The outer shell might need support near the front as well until both layers are built out. Originally the O2 sensor bungs were going through this double wall but I expect I will have it easier and get a better weld installing them lower where it is currently single wall at this time as well as allowing more freedom for forming the water jacket.

[CharlieN]

Today I have been working on the exhaust again, I think I will be for quite some time.
I have the outlet pipes sitting nice on the headers. I have the finish welding on these pipes.
I think I roughly know where the O2 sensors will be and they will not pass through these upper sections of outer tube.
If I drop them down a bit just below where the jacket reaches now I can be sure I get a good weld to the exhaust tube.
I then will make a shot straight outer jacket with good bracing to locate to the collector area of the exhaust.
This will also provide a floating section the lower outer jacket will mate to.
Details later once I figure them out.

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[CharlieN]

A few more shots

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[CharlieN]

After design, cutting, trimming I can finally test fit one side of the actual exhaust.

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This is only set in place, but the fact it sets in place is important, not needing clamps.
I will next machine for the O2 sensors, one each side at this time but might add another for a wideband unit presuming it would help during tuning.

[LakeFever]

Exhaust always looks so simple when it’s done but it’s a ton of work to fit that all up nice. Looking good

[CharlieN]

I reminisce back to planning this exhaust, I wanted equal length long tube headers, I have made many sets for cars and motorcycles over the past 54 years, I am turning 70 now for a qualifier. Today there are no true vendors U bends, especially stainless. Even Burns only offers a tiny selection at crazy cost.
I found this Street shorty stainless header on Ebay, price is right, the vendor did not state they would ship from China. I have discovered the Chinese are naming some business regions after American states.

I had discovered the Ex flange is symmetrical up-down, So I bought a set, removed the 3 bolt outlet and here is what I am making.
Sitting here is a large box of Stl 2.25 U bends that I will fabricate the water jacket with.
That should keep indoors for weeks.

[CharlieN]

I have the outer tube in place on each side of the EX. They look great, BUT I am pretty to sure they are a bit high to clear the engine lid.
540262
The wide secti9n of the engine cover comes in flush to the inner flange right at the height of the top of the water jacket.
I feel I am best to trim down the end of the tube a bit. Hoping 1/4 is enough but 3/8 might well be safer. Easy enough to do on the big dusk sander.
Humm looking at the photos from this session I might well be wrong.

I went back into the shop and took a few shots as well as tried to slde a piece of corrugated cardboard in between the cover and lid. Starboard is fine, Port, nope.
Thinking back when making the mounts I set the port side higher to the engine will level under power.
So I trim the EX down a bit.

540263
More later,

[CharlieN]

I lowered the front of the pipes 10mm each side and leaned them in a bit.
The engine is mounted on the GM factory mounts. They have roll stoppers but in reality I have no clue how much this engine will move around.
My concern is if the exhaust is welded to the hull flanges I might be building in a failure point.

At this time I am starting to consider a soft AKA gasketed flange at the transom.
Might be a machined aluminum plate or Phenolic with an Oring groove for the pipe.

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[David - WI]

Can't you bolt a "torque arm" on the "tension" side of the engine... two heim joints on a threaded tube so you can adjust the length (pre-load) if you want to?

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https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-420303?seid=srese2&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Brands+|+S&utm_term=4581458797598844&utm_content=GSAPI+5ca6324dae5a6

[CharlieN]

The mounts being the original to the engine do have limiters that might be sufficient. The engine is a factory replacement, dealer installed and appears fairly young. A bit salty such the Aluminum block and heads need an acid wash. The salvage yard had just got this in from the auction yard. They drove the Escalade as well, I bought the engine 3 days after it arrived and sold the roof cut right before I was up there a few days later.
Strong possibility I am overthinking this.
The hose sections are 1' long, taking clamped area out this means about 8" of flex length, it is a pretty stiff hose at shop temps.

[CharlieN]

I do have two torque arm designs Other than the GM mount limiter, My preferred one is at the bellhousing, the other from the front of the port head. My desire is to get the boat on the water and either with a driver or an observer/camera will let the boat say what it needs, still allot to learn, not a whole lot more to build, other than the two underfloor gas tanks.
I do have a good 8' brake but might farm the bending to a local shop with a 10 powered brake.
My 70 YO arms can not do what they used to do so forming the tanks might be farmed out.
But then one of my neighbors has arms like brutish so he can pull on my big brake.

[CharlieN]

Sunny and up in the mid 40s today. Down to about 15" snow cover but we got into the 40s today.
If I had put on snow shoes it would have been easier to get around in the back yard but I did so with knee high boots. Thank golly for the carbon knee brace I need to wear now. Sure wish I could get surgery.
But I went out with implements of manual snow removal and cleared off my Glastron CVX20 Sprint and my 21 Superboaat. The covers held up great this year being they had 3+ feet of snow on them at times. They had 14-15 when I cleared them today. Indoors I picked at the Surfdrive project a bit but am waiting on parts and material. Shipping is pitifully slow as of late. I have both front seats set in place, the pilots side is on adjustable rails since I am utilizing a foot throttle. Pax side I intend to hard mount. I have ordered hardware but it seems to be crawling on it's belly to get here.

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[CharlieN]

The pilot seat is now on adjustable rails. They slide freely with their roller bearing rails.
Pictures of them are poo so not worth posting at this time. I expect adjustment will be needed once the carpet goes back in.

[CharlieN]

I am actually still working on this boat, Preparing an aviation event that has a top level Rep from the state bringing my wife and I into meetings with the top level aviation officers in the Northeast as they have selected us to develop future youth events. Really cool to have earned this stature in the region.
Today was a meeting with a top level medical planner who wants to take me on a more advanced path for my blood sugar control, this should be interesting, I have no clue what this ride will be. To me Insulin works but he has more advanced ideas. If I suddenly stop posting it did not work. I thought I had taken a number of photos as I am working on the aft seats, kind of cheating as I am pulling the rear seat that I made a decade ago for my CVX 20 Sprint. Truly not important at this time but I tend to do some last minute tasks early in projects..

[LakeFever]

Charlie keep an eye on those motor mounts they are prone to splitting it’s a common issue in gm trucks/escalades and whatnot. There are polyurethane mounts available that have the exact same fitment. You drill out the rivets holding the mount together and replace the rubber with poly and bolt it back together. Just wanted to mention it might be a wise investment before running the boat so nothing gets bent or broken

[CharlieN]

I have read a bit about the mounts, The engine I bought is a GM warranty replacement along with the mounts less than a month before a tree fell on the roof, Crushed it good.
The mounts had a change in design due to the earlier design having delamination failures. The mounts I have are the latest design from GM and have the travel limiters in them, I expect these will hold up just fine for some time.

[CharlieN]

I am progressing with building the exhaust risers.
These are made in 304 SS, the inner tube is the same diameter as the collector on the headers, this being 2 1/2 OD, the headers themselves are metric with 40MM runners. Bought them on Ebay in the Middle East from a country I can not pronounce. After they were delivered I have seen them listed in California for more than double the price including what I paid for the shipping.
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[CharlieN]

Not a big thing but the exhaust risers are finish welded and rough polished. I will do a bit more detail work then it is time to align and weld them onto the headers.

Then real fun begins, building the water jacket for the headers. That will be time consuming.
I spent many hours searching for a nice set of aluminum EX manifolds , anything that looked nice is way out of my reach financially. There was a nice looking set overseas but they never responded.
So here are my risers, soon to be welded to the headers.
I ended up installing one O2 bung each side, I was originally thinking I should have two on one side so a wideband meter can be run. I expect I can get that info from the engine control unit.

542111

[David - WI]

My wideband O2 meter also outputs a narrowband signal for an engine ECU if needed. So, you just put the wideband sensor in the exhaust and then hook the stock ECU O2 wire to the WBO2 meter output instead of using the narrowband exhaust sensor at all. (Also, it has -I think- four EGT inputs and a couple other analog channels).

[CharlieN]

That is a nice setup. This engine runs wideband sensors, kind of a surprise but seems to be part of modern emissions designs. From my readings the engine will to some point learn and tune as it feels it needs. Curious if this will be true but other than freer intake and EX systems I am not changing much.
Heck I considered trying the factory 4-1 exhaust but these street rod headers have far better formed tubing.
I was just setting one collector/ exhaust hose in place but the hose clamps are in hiding or I just have not bought them yet.

[David - WI]

The meter will also pass the wideband signal through to the factory ECU... so either way you just need one sensor (or one per side).

[CharlieN]

One per side for this one, good info.
I am far enough to set one exhaust in place, I like how it sits.
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[CharlieN]

Kind of like yesterday, I have the Starboard side EX set in place. Both sides need minor tweaking where they will mate to the headers. I will then be ready to tack weld both sides. Then they are ready to finish weld the sections.
Next will be remove both sides and fully weld the risers to the upper pipes together.
THEN, fabricate the water jackets for both sides. I will not be rushing that job. I have been searching online for an affordable set of Aluminum EX manifolds, as in under 1K. Nothing real that I could find, so I will continue with these.

My wife and I are hosting a few aviation events in the near future and they will draw my attention at times.
Our upcoming fly-in breakfast looks like it will be better staffed than the past few years with help coming in from other EAA chapters as well. Seams they are curious how we feed well over 100 people with just 8 souls working. Heck we are too, just takes people with pride and trust in our leadership.

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[skialot2]

Loving this thread. Especially this exhaust build part. Very impressive. It's waaaay past my skill level.

[CharlieN]

Thank you, I am enjoying this stage of the project. As we all know not everything goes as planned but this EX is actually coming along as desired.
The next stage on this EX I expect to become tedious, but not stupidly so.
One thing I am considering at this point, once the risers are partially welded to the headers I am considering puling the engine and put it back on the work stand.
CN


Loving this thread. Especially this exhaust build part. Very impressive. It's waaaay past my skill level.

[CharlieN]

With all the other event and spring time stuff going on I got some time to get the PAX seat on rails and ready to do the first trial mountings.
Unfortunately for me my trusty Cannon camera decided when it shows 9999 images it simply shuts down. Dang these cameras must be gold now. My Social security does not give raises.
I have a pile of SX60 camera, half a dozen that were dropped or simply quit.
I guess I need to use my wife's old SX40 handme down and get some images.

Where I am at, both of the original front seats are mounted on adjustable rails. More important on the pilot side since I am building with a foot throttle.
Pax side being adjustable? mostly for convenience if the rear seat is occupied.

Being neither seat is in place photos will not say much.
I could and should get images of the seat rail setup for people to ponder over.

[CharlieN]

I achieved an important step today, I have the EX risers tack welded to the headers.
At this point, other than the water jackets over the headers both sides are complete through the transom.
Once I look everything over I might pull the engine allowing me to finish the engine bay. That will be a big step.

For some reason I can not load the three images, well it does not look any different.

I have been trying to load a few photos, for some reason I can not do so.

[CharlieN]

Recently I commented that my Canon camera stopped taking pictures when this image count hit 9999.
I did a few hours searching online both searching for a replacement or a cure. I got a few decent opinions.
Then I started looking closer at the memory card, turns out it was full. I deleted 700+ images that date back a decade or so, heck they are on two computers hard drives.
The camera is working just fine when the memory card has room on it.
At this point I can move forward.

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[CUDA]

Wow!

Cool

[89LASER]

Beautiful work! I've been following your build since I have a couple of Glastrons.

[CharlieN]

My next task is to remove the engine and drive so I can finish the headers, it is time to build the water jackets..
I spent some time this morning looking at the images of this project since my wife was saying the engine was installed with a neighbors heavy equipment, not my 24HP Kubota. Photos show I did install the engine with my tractor and my neighbor used his equipment when we flipped this hull when I verified the bottom of the hull was in top shape, It is, this hull looks like it was never beached of run over anything. I sanded the bottom as recommended and polished & waxed the sides of the hull.
Well I making a weather related scheduling error. Originally we had inbound rain coming about 5 Pm, The boat is in a carport under our hot tub room nice and safe.
I was just outside and it felt like WX was approaching soon and sure enough we have light rain upon us now and going to rain for a number of days. So much for the headers and working on the inside of the hull. Heck this is the same time as yesterday when the rain arrived at our fly-in breakfast which allowed us to at least brake even and hopefully make some money for our EAA chapter.

[CharlieN]

Now that I brought the boat out of the shop it is going rain for a full week, oh well so much for the passing rain on Sunday. It is stored under cover. I wish I had removed all the fasteners holding the engine and drive in place such that a lull in the rain I could quickly remove all of the drive.

[CharlieN]

It looks like there will be a lull in the rain later today, it has backed down to just a drizzle at this time but I have an appointment with my Neurologist in a few hours so maybe I can get a few hours to get at least the engine on the work stand. Once that is done I can remove the transmission with the boat back inside.

542499

[CharlieN]

Another morning waiting for the rain to stop. Yesterday I got most of the fasteners removed that hold the engine to the transmission so if things work I may get the engine on the workstand by late morning.

[CharlieN]

The rain stopped,
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With the engine inside on a stand I can fabricate the water jacket for the headers, this will be time consuming.
I will soon remove the transmission allowing me to clean the bilge, do some detail work the paint that area and the rest of the engine bay.

[CharlieN]

I am progressing on the exhaust, real close to starting to fabricate the water jacket on the lower tubes.

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[CharlieN]

Frustrating, I was writing up my recent work in the hull and loading the 3rd of 4 images and this site shut me out, Oh well.

[David - WI]

Usually there's a grey box in the lower left corner of the editor (click "Go Advanced") that will restore what you had so far. ("Restore Auto-Saved Content").

542821

Also, the photos you uploaded should be saved in "Manage attachments" where you can re-insert them in your post if you have to start over. (Click "Go Advanced" on the bottom right side of the editor.)

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[CharlieN]

Once again I was writing and update and while I was uploading 4 images this site shut me out again.

[David - WI]

Whatever you had done is usually saved automatically and is easily recoverable. It's happened to me many times.

[merccrazy]

It happens if you look who's online you will figure it out. 22 members and 50,000 guests.

[CharlieN]

I got a bit of time allowing me to do some cleanup in the stern preparing to fabricate the inside of the cooling water inlet. What is seen here is the filler plate closing off what was the inlet for the jet drive. The prop shaft passes through a 1/2" Fiberglass panel that bolts onto where the original Jet mounted. The lower white line is sealant, not a gap. That will have a doubler over that joint.
The slots where you see grass is the water inlet.
The lower panel is fitted into a V grove I routed all around the opening.
542954 542955 542956

What is seen above leads up to the 1 1/4" feed tube forward to the water strainer.

More later.

[NZ Sidewinder]

I've got into the habit of turning my argon off at the bottle after every pause in welding.

[NZ Sidewinder]

My wife would be encouraging me to build and fly the plane......

[CharlieN]

My wife would be encouraging me to build and fly the plane......

I would love to, but I am 70 Yo now, having been self employed most of my life and used accountants to manage my money It was very late in life when I learned what the accountants meant when he said "I am going to make you money" That translates into he did not invest into my retirement, he invested into his own. Then out previous few decades of corrupt government they took all they could.
Yes I would love to finish this plane, but I have other friends that let me use their planes.

[NZ Sidewinder]

I see my accountant for what he is.
A bean cou ter who would throw me under a bus without hesitation.
My most lucrative investment was one that he was horrified with. ( not bitcoin)
I'm 60yr old, semi retired.
People think Accountants are money experts, they are not.

[DangerNewb]

I see my accountant for what he is.
A bean cou ter who would throw me under a bus without hesitation.
My most lucrative investment was one that he was horrified with. ( not bitcoin)
I'm 60yr old, semi retired.
People think Accountants are money experts, they are not.

Accountants count money. Investment Advisors, at least good ones, make you money.

[89LASER]

We haven't heard from you in a while, I hope all is well and you're ok.

[CharlieN]

Life has been a bit of a roller coaster for me this year. Some medical stuff with a much needed change of my Primary physician. I have spent a fair bit of time hosting aviation events. But I have also spent allot of time working on this project but clearly not spending the time to up-date my posts.