24 Skater Restoration

[2thelake]

S&F,

So it starts! I decided to redo my 24 Skater! There was some paint peeling off it and I wanted to repaint it. I have never re done a boat as this is my first boat I’ve ever owned…so I’m asking the S&F community for advice on anything and everything about this boat while I document the progress of it on here. I probably should have started this thread earlier so you guys could have given me advice on how to do things like sanding but as the boat currently sits it’s about ready to go for some glasswork and then paint. Here are some before pictures.

[2thelake]

I started with a razor blade and peeled off the clear coat.

[2thelake]

Next was sanding. Was told to use 150 grit with the orbital. I think my boat was blue before it’s orange paint job!

[2thelake]

Some gelcoat work being done. Had some chips on the edges. very hard to find people in SW Michigan who travel to your boat to do gelcoat match….

[2thelake]

Forgot to post pictures of the motors coming off. It definitely helps if you have a friend with a skid steer. I could not have done it without him! For newbies like me this was my first time and it honestly wasn’t that bad. Most of the stuff is plug n play and there are only a few hose clamps that you have to take off on the oil lines to get them out. A couple linkages too that are held in with some small bolts as well. Just make sure you take a lot of pictures so you can put everything back when it comes time to put the motors back on.

We used a corded 1/2” impact gun to take the bolts for the engine clamp off jackplates as well as the jackplates bolts that went through the hull.

[2thelake]

As I’m in Michigan I went to skater and got to meet Pete! I went there unannounced and I got to tour the factory! Some incredible boats being built there. I also asked pete for some high back seats but was referred to Apperance Products and Boat Customs to see if they had any laying around. The new ones they make at skater are real nice but we’re out of my price range. Luckily AP had some old ones that I could get redone so I went and picked them up!

I also got a chance to stop at boat customs and was able to work with them for paint and a few modifications like a new rear seat. I wanted a hatch put in aswell so I had to go find an old racing hatch. Luckily I found someone on the outboard skater Facebook Page selling one in Long Island. That guy was very helpful in also being able to ship it to me via another S&F member.

So as of now that’s where I’m at with this boat. Just accumulating parts before it goes to boat customs for fiberglass and paint. As I am a merchant mariner who just went back for work there’s no rush to have it done for this summer. Just a lot of time for me to mull over everything I want to do to it after it comes back from BC..but that’s where I need S&Fs help! It’s all the little things like should I go with 2 screens or keep the analog gauges. What depth finder do you guys recommend and where do you mount it. What kind of trim indicators mechanical or electronic? All that kind of stuff when you guys where re doing your boats! Would love to hear it all from you guys!

[Jim Speros]

Nice project. I am doing something similar to a 28. Yes, they guys at Skater are awesome.

I choose to keep mine close to as produced except for new 4 strokes. I'm keeping mechanical controls and indicators. One garmin for Nav, depth with engine info. I saw where a depth puck was once installed in stb sponson near bilge pump. I will try to use that shoot thru location again. Previous repower installed smart craft gauges and I choose to keep them too. Aside from that new rail, paint, interior, wiring, hoses and engines.

Keep us posted. I'll be watching and rooting for you.

Cheers

[2thelake]

Nice project. I am doing something similar to a 28. Yes, they guys at Skater are awesome.

I choose to keep mine close to as produced except for new 4 strokes. I'm keeping mechanical controls and indicators. One garmin for Nav, depth with engine info. I saw where a depth puck was once installed in stb sponson near bilge pump. I will try to use that shoot thru location again. Previous repower installed smart craft gauges and I choose to keep them too. Aside from that new rail, paint, interior, wiring, hoses and engines.

Keep us posted. I'll be watching and rooting for you.

Cheers

jim what jack plates are you going with for your verados? Also are you putting water ramps into your sponsons? I’m toying with the idea of going the 4 stroke route as well. I hope they come out with the 15” mids for the 300r soon!

[Jim Speros]

Have a pair of 300R's to go on STR 1 3/4 plates. I'm changing my center dimension going wider. No plans to cut lead ins.

[2thelake]

Have a pair of 300R's to go on STR 1 3/4 plates. I'm changing my center dimension going wider. No plans to cut lead ins.

jim sent you PM via email.

[2thelake]

Since I’m going to be in the rigging phase of this project I’d like to ask you guys what electric fuel pumps / trim pumps do you run? Is the standard on here to only use mercury/quicksilver or do some of the aftermarket pumps hold up just and good?

[capteliminator]

Nice project!! How far out is Boat Customs on painting? Who is doing the upholstery?

[2thelake]

Nice project!! How far out is Boat Customs on painting? Who is doing the upholstery?

No idea the paint schedule he’s always super busy. I will let know know if I find out though. Before it gets paint it’s getting a taller fiberglass windshield faring and a rear seat which will be moved forward a good amount

I went with apperance products which is like 15min away for upholstery. They are awesome.

I still need to find someone who can help me drill the transom and install some jackplates after it’s done with all that stuff. Would like to spread the motors out a little bit more from where they were originally. So need to find a good outboard rigging place around the Grand Rapids area. All the outboard riggers seem to be down in Florida. There has to be someone who’s good at cats up here in the Midwest though.

[2thelake]

Was worried about what was behind the rub rail but when I took it off was told that’s normal.

[2thelake]

The old powerlift jackplates had 2 upper jackplate bolts in the splashwell bolts (filled in already with glass. My new 15” midsections from MadEfi showed up so I’m wondering how far down I should bring the new jack plates. The set back on the CMCs were 5.5” I have STR slims which are like 1.5” but also debating on Porta hydraulic which are 8” I also still have to find some 15” clamps or have my 20” clamps cut down but from what I have seen those 15” clamps will also add setback so I’m hoping there will be enough room where I can put those upper bolts through with big washers/backing plates just below the splash well. Again I’ve never done this so I’m not sure if people with 15” motors on their 24 have them still mounted with upper bolts above or below the splash well.