1983 Vking rebuild

[VkingMike]

Alright guys, I've already started by rebuild a few weeks ago. But I have been taking photos of as much as I can during the different stages. I have found so much wrong already and it amazes me the shortcuts people will take to just patch something that needs a full restoration.

I picked this boat up In May of this year after looking at a LOT of old Hydrostreams in desperate need of repair or maintenance. I could tell the transom and floor had been replaced at some point in its life, but the owner was not sure of when. Hell, he wasn't really sure which model of Hydrostream this even was. But it ran really well and I saw the potential.

I started with the obvious tune-ups and services to get it on the water and make sure it would float/run at minimum before going much further. First water test it was taking on quite a bit of water, so I pulled it back out to inspect. I found what appeared to be empty screw holes in the bottom of the hull (on the outside of the core material). Not sure what they were doing under there, but I properly repaired them and solved that issue. Installed a Seastar pro for safety and started running the boat regularly. Once I got more comfortable and learned how to drive the boat a bit better, speeds started getting faster and faster. Which then had me thinking more and more about safety and integrity of the hull. Last thing I want to do is have a failure or accident due to rolling the dice.

I'll start with a few pictures of the boat, before I started cutting.

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[tnelsmn]

Starting with a good looking boat! Looking forward to seeing this come together.

[LakeFever]

Nice looking stream! Keep posting up pics and updating. Build threads are the most fun to follow so I’m looking forward to seeing you progress with this

lol tree’d by Tnels :cheers:

[VkingMike]

Thanks guys, I'll be adding more pictures of what I've done already here shortly. I Though I had a lot of questions before, but now that I'm into cutting I have SO many more lol... I'll definitely be looking for advice through this process.

[VkingMike]

First day was removing seats and seat mount, then fuel cell battery and basically everything on the floor. I cut an access hole under where the fuel cell was mounted in the rear to test drill a few spots of core. It started off looking good, as the floor was Divinycell in between two thick layers of fiberglass. Honestly would have though it was wood with how sturdy it was. The core on the outer sides of the stringer was first, it was dry foam, so I think Awesome! Next was a drill into the center of the pad near the drainplug, well I struck oil (water) It came bubbling out of the drill hole along with soaked but clean balsa wood. From here is where I had that feeling of "well, I've gotta do it now"
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[VkingMike]

I started with setting a circular saw blade to a depth that would just barely cut through the floor and taking strips out of the middle. I wasn't sure how close to cut towards the edge, so I went a little at a time.


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[XstreamVking]

Doing good so far, proceeding with caution is the best method. I see you have an 83, same yr as mine and same const it appears with the glass U shaped stringer. Low floor in frt. and footrest. Big boxes full of foam in outer wings at stern. Nice looking boat and old Mariner is nice too....

[LakeFever]

The core looks pretty dark. Restoration was a wise decision

[VkingMike]

Doing good so far, proceeding with caution is the best method. I see you have an 83, same yr as mine and same const it appears with the glass U shaped stringer. Low floor in frt. and footrest. Big boxes full of foam in outer wings at stern. Nice looking boat and old Mariner is nice too....

Thanks man, form all my searching and looking at layups and advice I got from asking Tnelsmn a few questions, I felt a bit more comfortable going forward.

[VkingMike]

Once I got all the floor cut out, I went straight for the front foot area and bow. It was done poorly and I found lots of water being held in this area, along with a pressure treated wood brace. It appears they just laid it down and glassed over it.

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[VkingMike]

The core looks pretty dark. Restoration was a wise decision

This is where the pictures start to get good!

[VkingMike]

Next was on to cutting the fiberglass around the outer edge of the core all the way up into the bow. I started prying up the fiberglass and removing it in chunks and there it was, rotten wet core. some spots missing, some still adhered down. You can also see how thin the hull is where a flashlight was laid under the hull on the ground.

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[LakeFever]

I hear ya on thin skin. I’m still shocked how thin the outer skin is on these things. I added lots of glass to mine but weight wasn’t my primary concern, strength was.

[VkingMike]

The fun really began when I started removing the balsa core. I used a oscillation saw and it worked quite well to get most of the wood removed and ready for grinding. I started way up in the bow with grinding and worked my way back. It still needs a bit more, but its getting close to bare hull. I found standing water in the foot are, it started seeping out when I was cutting around the outer layer of core fiberglass.


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[VkingMike]

That's all the balsa that's still in this boat besides the pad, Everything behind the front area is 3/8 Divinycell core. However, it is not bonded properly from the sections I have started to remove, which basically make it useless and its all coming out as well. But before that, I cut the fiberglass stringer out and opened up the pad to expose the core (or what was left of it) This is where I stood back and said out loud "WOW"

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[rjdubiel]

crazy how these hull still hold together with all the rot. I was also amazed at how thin the outer hull is, but if you think about it, all the force is on the inside of the hull from the water pushing up on the hull. So the stronger side needs to be on top of the core as far as glass goes. Looks like you are well on your way!

[VkingMike]

I dug all the rotten core out of the pad area and started cutting and chipping around the drain plug. Also started cutting out the foam sections, which is how I realized it wasn't really bonded with the hull. Tonight all be cutting the outer skin off and moving forward. All of the excessive globed up resin doesn't seem right to me, but its getting removed anyways. You can really see it in the picture of the drain hole picture where I started removing fiberglass. Its caked in the corners.
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[VkingMike]

Went over after work tonight and did a couple hours. Wanted to get some cutting done to get to the foam and see what's going. Lots of wet pockets and foam not properly bonded. Next it starts coming out.
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[VkingMike]

Ok guys a few more hours today and all of the core is out of the boat. Now is where I come to you for some guidance and the next step. I know I have a lot grinding from here, but my question is about the stringer. I've attached a few photos and I'm wanting to know about the best way to cut the rest of it out. It appears there are different layers? I pointed at the area to try and help. It's like it steps down twice into the pad?
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[VkingMike]

I'm not sure why the photos are not oriented properly, hopefully you can still tell what I'm talking about

[LakeFever]

A couple tools that proved invaluable in my build are an oscillating tool and a half inch belt grinder. Those two should be what you need to cut out the stringers and detail the inside of the pad area. As for the pics it’s kinda hit and miss with the orientation here. I use preview post under advanced and rotate the pics to suit the mood of the board that day lol. Even then it doesn’t always end up with pics the right way. It’s all good, adds some character to the place

[OnPad]

I'm new here also. If your using your phone take the picture sideways. You can also turn vertically taken pictures in your gallery (on phone). Probably the wrong way to do it because they show up smaller. Now if I could just figure out how to enlarge them.
Kinda old school but a sharp chisel and hammer might help you get that stringer cleaned out. When you go to grinding or sanding a shop vac to catch your debris directly off of said tools will make life more pleasant.
Keep up the good work!

[VkingMike]

Thank you guys, I just wanted to try and keep from going through the hull as much as possible. The oscillating tool has already been the most handy tool purchased for removing core and cutting glass with less dust. I'll just take it slow and start by removing the actual stringer and goin from there. Since they already half way cored the boat once, there are few extra layers of fiberglass over the entire hull which makes things a bit tougher to get smooth.

[rjdubiel]

Mine had a hole by your feet when I got mine. It delaminated on me there some first time out. Previous owner had it recored but they never went into the bow and the core they did do from the front of the floor back to the transom came out as they did not bed it very well to the outer skin of the hull. My favorite tool for grinding was the super messy and dusty grinder with 36 grip flapper disk. Baby power up and go to town. Sucks, but was way faster than any sanding tools I had.

[VkingMike]

Mine had a hole by your feet when I got mine. It delaminated on me there some first time out. Previous owner had it recored but they never went into the bow and the core they did do from the front of the floor back to the transom came out as they did not bed it very well to the outer skin of the hull. My favorite tool for grinding was the super messy and dusty grinder with 36 grip flapper disk. Baby power up and go to town. Sucks, but was way faster than any sanding tools I had.

That's what they did on mine as well, it was only re-cored from the seats back. I'm lucky it didn't fail as all of the core from my seat forward was wet and rotten. For grinding I've got a pack of the 36 grit flappers, they do a quick job of it, but its messy. Oh well, its gotta get done!

[VkingMike]

Its a crudely made windows paint photo, but the area of the pad in question is in the light blue color. It seems to run along both outer edges of the pad most of the way to the front where the pad fades out. I also outlined it showing the small step of fiberglass. Does that need to come out as well?
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[XstreamVking]

On the stringer. You plan on going back with same design? If not, what kind of subfloor structure is in your mind?

[VkingMike]

On the stringer. You plan on going back with same design? If not, what kind of subfloor structure is in your mind?
Honestly I'm unsure of what type of stringer I'll do yet when it goes back together. I was definitely going to take opinions on the best way to set this up. Which I figured would matter on how I cut the rest of the stock stringer out, so I didn't wanna get too crazy before asking.

[XstreamVking]

You can make a new box stringer to match the one you have. Or repair the old one. (I reused the one from my boat). You can make a stringer mold by using melamine board which is easy to glass on. Or use plywood and glass over it. ORRR you could use some synthetic coreboard and glass over that. Whew! lot of options. My way of thinking is, the boat had a glass box stringer from the factory. Do a good core job on either side and glass it all together and it will be strong. The flat top of the box makes a good center floor support. To me it's simple and strong. Lots of other ways with complex side to side bulkheads etc. But these are small spans and light weight is important. For a floor I used 1/2' core board glassed lightly under and medium heavy on the top. Tabbed in on the edges with bi axial glass strips.

[tnelsmn]

Here's how that area of the hull looked on mine once I got it all out. I used a Dynafile like LakeFever mentioned to clear out all the corners.

They're not the greatest pictures but you get the idea. There's still wood left to be removed on yours where the plug goes in. Most likely core under there. I added a shot of the mess mine was when I tore into it. The transom had been replaced before and a LOT of extra resin has made its way into the bilge area.

[VkingMike]

Here's how that area of the hull looked on mine once I got it all out. I used a Dynafile like LakeFever mentioned to clear out all the corners.

They're not the greatest pictures but you get the idea. There's still wood left to be removed on yours where the plug goes in. Most likely core under there. I added a shot of the mess mine was when I tore into it. The transom had been replaced before and a LOT of extra resin has made its way into the bilge area.
That's what it appears on mine as well, lots of resin went to find a home at the lowest spot. (That should be fun to remove) I dug most of the fiberglass out around the drain hole and it was a block of Coosa, I dug the balsa out from under it, but will probably remove that as well to start fresh. I'll look into a sander as mentioned.

[VkingMike]

You can make a new box stringer to match the one you have. Or repair the old one. (I reused the one from my boat). You can make a stringer mold by using melamine board which is easy to glass on. Or use plywood and glass over it. ORRR you could use some synthetic coreboard and glass over that. Whew! lot of options. My way of thinking is, the boat had a glass box stringer from the factory. Do a good core job on either side and glass it all together and it will be strong. The flat top of the box makes a good center floor support. To me it's simple and strong. Lots of other ways with complex side to side bulkheads etc. But these are small spans and light weight is important. For a floor I used 1/2' core board glassed lightly under and medium heavy on the top. Tabbed in on the edges with bi axial glass strips. This is however the beauty of fiberglass work, the options are pretty limitless. I did keep the stock stringer that I cut out just in case.

[VkingMike]

Put in about 7 hours today and I am exhausted...

Removing the stock stringer was arguably harder that removing the balsa. Took me the majority of the afternoon. but I stuck with it and got it all out. Then I started grinding, and grinding some more. I took the suggestion and ordered an 18" band sander 1/2 wide and it will be here tomorrow to get into all the corners. It's getting close, which is exciting to get out of this Tyvek suit and breather. I will likely have to remove the layer of glass that was laid down under the original Divinycell, as it doesn't seam to be adhered very well. And I don't want lamination issues with the new glass and core.

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[LakeFever]

Lookin good! I read a ton of build threads over the years. I must have read over
a hundred by now and the most common statement is “the glass from the repairs done did not adhere very well”

this led me to consider resin and was the primary reason I chose vinylester over polyester. I spoke with some retired pros who had done a bunch and they said using vinylester for the lays over the factory glass first then switch to poly. These guys work fast though and secondary bonding with poly goes south fast so I stuck with vinyelster the whole way. It costs quite a bit more but it bonds very well and it has the bonus of being completely water proof which polyester, is not.

[VkingMike]

I was a bit surprised honestly, I was just using a 5 in 1 tool to scrape some of the excess fiberglass off the corners of the core to pad area and glass started coming up. At this point, the extra cost will not bother me at all. I want this done properly and not worry about it once its done. We have a pretty good fiberglass/composite place not too far from me where I'll be getting the supplies.

I'm still a bit torn on which core material I am going with.

[LakeFever]

If I was starting over I’d use the strongest foam core available. I believe that’s diviny cel but I might be wrong. I’d go that way for two reasons: 1. The obvious rot concerns over time. 2. Wayyyyyy faster and easier to lay in.

balsa is the strongest and it is the lightest but it was a pita to install. Very messy and we used over 2 gallons of resin priming it which you don’t have to do to foam core so factor that into your price. I know I can care for this boat plenty fine with balsa im not concerned about it one bit. But thinking of my kids probably inheriting it and say fifty years from now how good will the balsa still be? That has me a little concerned. Whatever core you use I really suggest core bond to bed it in. It’s a full and total bond with no voids because it squeezes up into the spots resin wouldn’t. Don’t be afraid to use plenty it’s great product IMO.

There’s also epoxy which is bomb proof but a bit trickier with the stitch mat as it doesn’t dissolve binders like poly/vinyl resin does. Gives you a lot longer work time too. But gel coat is pretty much a no go with epoxy.

Hope this is of some help

[VkingMike]

I'm definitely going with Divinycell, I think it's the H80. The full sheets are in stock locally, but I think there are areas that need the scored back for contours? I don't know how bendable or shapable the flat sheets are. I believe they also make a specific core bonding putty for this type of PVC core, but the shop that sells all of this is super helpful. However, I'm open to opinions from anyone in here as this is a bit more specific to this hull and not so general advice they tend to give to all types of boats.

I've never done fiberglass or coring, so I'm putting a lot of information together to end up with the best results.

[XstreamVking]

H-80 divinniycell, (scored) some 1/2'' / 3/4'' core board (light density for floor, hd for trans and knees.) 1708 biply glass and vinyl resin is what I built mine with. No failures and I am not easy on it at all. Jump it and run salt water with a 3.0Lmerc. :thumbsup:

[LakeFever]

Atc corebond is the stuff to use. As for scoring etc that’s the thing that makes corebond so good. Your bonding flat pieces onto a contoured shaped surface and the corebond fills the voids your inevitably going to have. Some places I have core spread open towards the top and other places the core is spreading open towards the bottom. In both cases I had so much corebond in there it was oozing out of all the seams. Then a quick wipe up with a plastic Bondo spreader and done. The only thing that sucks about corebond is sanding it is brutal so keep that in mind.

Another tip I was given by xstream that is super solid is to use torn csm strips at the ends of all the structural glass lays. It’s called tailing and it makes smooth transitions so you don’t have to grind or sand the hard edges down before laying more glass. Plus it adds a lot of strength. I did tail some of my lays but not all. I simply forgot. There’s a lot happening and the moment you catalyze your resin you gotta get moving with it before it kicks so I gapped on the csm while I was focused on bubble rolling.

[FMP]

H-80 divinniycell, (scored) some 1/2'' / 3/4'' core board (light density for floor, hd for trans and knees.) 1708 biply glass and vinyl resin is what I built mine with. No failures and I am not easy on it at all. Jump it and run salt water with a 3.0Lmerc. :thumbsup:

Give a full description to properly do the transom to final color dress. I've always been concerned about the lack of resistance to compression, thru bolts, clamps etc. Some of best don't use anything but topshelf ply because of failure in composites.
Next one I do I'm considering it.

Forget it , too much mickey mousing with aluminum plates under final layers or solid plugs at thru bolts.
Wood or coosa type for me.

[XstreamVking]

The key to avoiding compression damage on any core is adequate fiberglass on the skins. ( and using a tq. wrench on the bolts) The outer skin should be robust and about 3/8'' glass (1708 is my go to). Use a hi density core like 26 # coosa. (1/2'' or 3/4'', try hitting it with a hammer) Use about 1/4'' glass between the 2 core pcs. On the inner skin use the same 3/8'' glass thickness where the engine bolts will be. It can be thinner everywhere else. Forget all the alum plates and the filled bolt cavities. They are not needed and really don't change the physics of the compression resistance of the whole structure. You are trying to SPREAD the load, not just concentrate it at a few beefed up points. VKing mike, I can delete this if you want. Just wanted to answer the question from FMP and add my 2cts.

[VkingMike]

The key to avoiding compression damage on any core is adequate fiberglass on the skins. ( and using a tq. wrench on the bolts) The outer skin should be robust and about 3/8'' glass (1708 is my go to). Use a hi density core like 26 # coosa. (1/2'' or 3/4'', try hitting it with a hammer) Use about 1/4'' glass between the 2 core pcs. On the inner skin use the same 3/8'' glass thickness where the engine bolts will be. It can be thinner everywhere else. Forget all the alum plates and the filled bolt cavities. They are not needed and really don't change the physics of the compression resistance of the whole structure. You are trying to SPREAD the load, not just concentrate it at a few beefed up points. VKing mike, I can delete this if you want. Just wanted to answer the question from FMP and add my 2cts.

Now way, this type of information is one of the reasons I joined this site. It's hard to argue with proven designs and results.

[VkingMike]

Speaking of transoms...

This one was replaced and the small amount I've cleaned the fiberglass back, it is clean and dry stacked marine 3/4 around the inner bracing they put in. Is there a real way to check the rest? I removed the engine before starting all of this to keep weight off the hull while the core was being taken out, and plan on removing the jackplate tonight and inspecting the wood near the through holes. Is it as simple as drilling test areas to check the rest? I'm not against just ripping it all out and starting fresh, but if its solid and I can save that part it would be nice.

[XstreamVking]

Main place is inspect in the bolt/drain holes. This is the main water intrusion area and should be a good indicator of woods condition. If you want, drill some test holes along the bottom of the trans pcs where the floor was. If it is ok, a good yellow color will come out with the drill. Woods biggest advantage is to absorb vibration from the engine. It's a good material, just needs a bit more care to keep it dry. With the composite core and floor/trans my boat sounds like it's going down a gravel road when in a slight chop. Original balsa and ply was much quieter. It' really a moot subject as far as one being better. Both are good.

[FMP]

The key to avoiding compression damage on any core is adequate fiberglass on the skins. ( and using a tq. wrench on the bolts) The outer skin should be robust and about 3/8'' glass (1708 is my go to). Use a hi density core like 26 # coosa. (1/2'' or 3/4'', try hitting it with a hammer) Use about 1/4'' glass between the 2 core pcs. On the inner skin use the same 3/8'' glass thickness where the engine bolts will be. It can be thinner everywhere else. Forget all the alum plates and the filled bolt cavities. They are not needed and really don't change the physics of the compression resistance of the whole structure. You are trying to SPREAD the load, not just concentrate it at a few beefed up points. VKing mike, I can delete this if you want. Just wanted to answer the question from FMP and add my 2cts.
Its good info, thanks. Still like my ply...

[LakeFever]

If I was starting over I’d probably use plywood for my transom too just to save on nvh as well as take away any strength concerns. I did lay a pile of 1708 and 1808 on the transom though. I ended up with a little over 1/4” thick outer skin and inner skin plus all the knee and splashwell tie ins on top of that that the engine bolts with go through. I’m using 1/2” aluminum sheet to make backers out of as well.

I did consider using carbon fiber tube in the mount holes but after testing my transom eyes it seems plenty strong. Time will tell

[XstreamVking]

I used some SS fender washers on the inside engine bolts for mine (2'' dia) and that was it. No problems after 5+ years. Just for reference.

[OnPad]

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Laser ltv transom and knee detail.

[VkingMike]

How much glass and what type do you guys recommend I lay on the bare hull before installing the core? Is the 1708 good for under and over the core?

[rjdubiel]

How much glass and what type do you guys recommend I lay on the bare hull before installing the core? Is the 1708 good for under and over the core?

I did 12 oz under my core and 1708 over. I Would do 1708 under and bed the core in the wet glass, if you can vacuum bag the core it will be even better.

[LakeFever]

I did two lays of 1708 under the core plus the thin areas got spot patches of 1708 as well. Vacuum bagging is the highest quality you can accomplish. Fujimo on here built boats for years and his comment on hand laying vs vacuum bagging is the best I’ve read. It went something like “hand laying glass can be done at very high quality, vacuum bag laying glass can be done at very high quality and be very light” to which he went on to explain on a small boat like these maybe 10-20% less weight total with an entirely bagged build.

I also considered it but thought it added another layer of complexity to a process I was totally new at and was warned it’s probably not the best approach to do your first bagging glass on a hull where you life depends on the outcome. I decided I could control the process better by hand and to that end I do believe I accomplished a safe layup.

A good bag job is awesome though, really the cream of the crop quality wise it can’t be beat

[rjdubiel]

One thing we all agree on: Follow some simple rules and no matter the process or the materials used it will be a better boat than when it came out of the factory!

[VkingMike]

One thing we all agree on: Follow some simple rules and no matter the process or the materials used it will be a better boat than when it came out of the factory!
Absolutely, that's why I'm here to share the build and ask all these questions. It's much appreciated for first timer

[LakeFever]

It’s a tough process to decide what route to take but since Tnels build thread things took a real turn upwards for us newbs. All I can do is offer up what little I have learned to help the next guys along best I can

[VkingMike]

I'm picking up the Divinycell H80 scored back this week. I measured out the surface area and added some for waste. I'm going to get some 3/4 straight non scored for stringers and floor.

[VkingMike]

I was just wishful thinking, or delaying the inevitable with the transom. I removed the jackplate and inspected the holes, dry as can be... Dug into the top fiberglass seem where the splash well delete meets the top of the transom since it was splitting, and its wet up top.
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[VkingMike]

More pics from last nights digging around. After the jackplate was removed yesterday, I came back to crying transom holes lol... I'm excited to get this torn out and rebuild to my standards. Picking up all materials today. Any guess on how much 1708 I'll need for this going back together? I was thinking a full roll of 50" wide.

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[LakeFever]

Yup that’s a good start along with a pail of resin,
mekp hardener ( get the bigger one it don’t go bad ) cabosil, couple finned rollers, some chip brushes, mixing cups, stir sticks, latex gloves, and some whiz rollers with disposable tray liners. We used 10cc syringes to measure out the catalyst by volume. What type of resin are you going to use?

[VkingMike]

I'm thinking the suggested Vinylester.

[VkingMike]

Materials in hand. A bit more expensive than I expected, but vinylester resin is pretty high right now at $400 a bucket.

I expected above $1000, so I was out the door at $1527

[LakeFever]

I won’t admit how much I’ve spent lol. I coulda bought a restored one for less haha

[VkingMike]

This isn't all of it, but its a good start.

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[VkingMike]

Made some progress on the transom yesterday. I just started chipping away and then just pulled the saw out. I hadn't planned on working on it after driving a few hours to pick up the materials. But, it's not going to tear itself apart. Tonight I'll be removing the actual transom wood. Oh the things I've found so far... Nails, wood screws, huge voids in the outer layer of glass, which is nice because they just peel off lol

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[LakeFever]

Someone spent a fair bit of time adding all that on there too. Looks like the splashwell is cored?

[rjdubiel]

that big thick wood is not needed when you go back, which I think you know. It looks tough but the strength is in the glass, not the wood. My transom was replaced stock, 3 sheets of 1/2 inch wood with glass between. Biggest and toughest part of putting the transom back in is getting is clamped to the hull on the bottom. I had a small void at the very bottom of mine, drilled two holes and filled it in with resin using a bigger syringe to pump the epoxy in one hole till it came out the other hole. I wish I would have paid more attention when clamping it down as I did not notice the void and could have pushed from the inside on teh bottom instead of trying to clamp the bottom with my home made clamps.

Looks great! love to watch these threads, the best part of S&F for me.

[VkingMike]

Someone spent a fair bit of time adding all that on there too. Looks like the splashwell is cored?

Yeah, the used 1/2 foam as decking. I mean, it was strong as I could stand on it lol

[VkingMike]

that big thick wood is not needed when you go back, which I think you know. It looks tough but the strength is in the glass, not the wood. My transom was replaced stock, 3 sheets of 1/2 inch wood with glass between. Biggest and toughest part of putting the transom back in is getting is clamped to the hull on the bottom. I had a small void at the very bottom of mine, drilled two holes and filled it in with resin using a bigger syringe to pump the epoxy in one hole till it came out the other hole. I wish I would have paid more attention when clamping it down as I did not notice the void and could have pushed from the inside on teh bottom instead of trying to clamp the bottom with my home made clamps.

Looks great! love to watch these threads, the best part of S&F for me. All this extra wood was completely unnecessary, it wasn't even properly bonded so it just laid on top covered in glass. But, its coming out easy so I'm thankful for that.

[VkingMike]

Question, what is the best method for cutting this 1708?

Shears, quality scissors?

[FMP]

that big thick wood is not needed when you go back, which I think you know. It looks tough but the strength is in the glass, not the wood. My transom was replaced stock, 3 sheets of 1/2 inch wood with glass between. Biggest and toughest part of putting the transom back in is getting is clamped to the hull on the bottom. I had a small void at the very bottom of mine, drilled two holes and filled it in with resin using a bigger syringe to pump the epoxy in one hole till it came out the other hole. I wish I would have paid more attention when clamping it down as I did not notice the void and could have pushed from the inside on teh bottom instead of trying to clamp the bottom with my home made clamps.

Looks great! love to watch these threads, the best part of S&F for me.

In the glass not the wood... I've never seen a solid wood not rotten transom with the flex and cracks and broken glass like one that's rotten. Not saying it hasn't happened but the glass sure doesn't hold the strength , JMO

[LakeFever]

Question, what is the best method for cutting this 1708?

Shears, quality scissors?

Some of these. I’ve burned through two sets of cutting edges ( mine came with two ) but man oh man are these worth it imo

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[rjdubiel]

Some of these. I’ve burned through two sets of cutting edges ( mine came with two ) but man oh man are these worth it imo

499749

I should have got one long ago! I went through a bunch of normal scissors and then bought some glass shears and those stay sharp and can be sharpened.

[VkingMike]

Back with more questions. Since I'm new to fiberglass, I though I would get opinions from the guys that have done it. I've been tearing out the transom and drain hole area, and there are just layers and layers of glass on top of the original hull. Most don't seem to be bonded well, it seems the more I scrape, the more that comes up.

It should not be like this right? As in, it should be more difficult to remove? Now, I'm not saying its just flaking by looking at it, but I also am able to scrape it by hand with a little force. Either way I'm scraping it back to bare hull, as I don't want my new glass work on top of junk.

And holy fiberglass in this last pic.. It looks more like something my grandma would have knitted lol

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[XstreamVking]

It's all gotta go.....Back to solid glass.

[282]

Thats going to be a great boat when it is all done. deck color is really nice. i give you credit that is a ton of work.

[282]

I put a new carpet in my stoker years ago...just pulling the interior and cleaning up the old carpet and glue was enough to put me over the edge.

[Hippie459MN]

I put a new carpet in my stoker years ago...just pulling the interior and cleaning up the old carpet and glue was enough to put me over the edge.

Not to hijack this but how did you get all the glue cleaned up from pulling the carpet out? I am dealing with that currently on my kids boat and after only like 10 minutes I want to punch someone. haha

[tnelsmn]

Mike, in the third picture (your grandmas knitting project) that's woven roving fiberglass. That's what the hull was built out of originally, so as you're doing surface prep and grinding you'll start to notice that layer of glass. That's a good indication you've got everything out and you're back to the original hull. Obviously that particular piece was added later, but that's the same stuff Hydrostream used from the factory. You'll notice that out in the wings and up in the bow etc. I attached a picture of my hull, you can see the woven roving near the bottom right of the picture once the chopper gun etc was ground off. I still had more to take off around the outer stringers etc.

As to you're earlier question about layers of glass around the core, I did a complete layer of 1708 on the hull before any core went in. I used wet 1.5oz CSM to bed the core, then covered the core with 1708. After tabbing in stringers there's pretty much a second layer of 1708 over the core as well.

[VkingMike]

Mike, in the third picture (your grandmas knitting project) that's woven roving fiberglass. That's what the hull was built out of originally, so as you're doing surface prep and grinding you'll start to notice that layer of glass. That's a good indication you've got everything out and you're back to the original hull. Obviously that particular piece was added later, but that's the same stuff Hydrostream used from the factory. You'll notice that out in the wings and up in the bow etc. I attached a picture of my hull, you can see the woven roving near the bottom right of the picture once the chopper gun etc was ground off. I still had more to take off around the outer stringers etc.

As to you're earlier question about layers of glass around the core, I did a complete layer of 1708 on the hull before any core went in. I used wet 1.5oz CSM to bed the core, then covered the core with 1708. After tabbing in stringers there's pretty much a second layer of 1708 over the core as well.Thank you for that info, I was actually going to come back in here and ask about that woven roving. I've been trying to clean out the layers someone else has done, and I've ran into some of that in the corners near the transom like in your pic. So thats a good sign I'm close. It can be tough to tell where to stop, other than I wouldn't expect the factory glass to scrape up so easily.

And I can definitely see it up near the bow, so I'm glad to know thats factory.

[VkingMike]

Not to hijack this but how did you get all the glue cleaned up from pulling the carpet out? I am dealing with that currently on my kids boat and after only like 10 minutes I want to punch someone. haha

Funny story, whoever "re-cored" this boat glassed over old carpet glue lol.. I've found that heavy/medium flapper wheels take it off quick, but it will make a mess.

[VkingMike]

Ok, back to build. Put in 5-6 hours today and got to work on the transom. I found a 5 way painters tool, pry bars, and a hammer worked well for me. The whole transom was wet, there was even water sitting at the bottom under the wood. The corners were basically mulch and just crumbled apart. I still have to scrape and sand the little bit of wood left behind on the skin.

I'm pretty sure I know the answer to this, but I like hearing others opinions. I'm not removing the foam boxes, but should I cut into the foam boxes at the rear to allow me more access to the wings and give me more hull to tab the transom into?

The last pic shows me scraping out the glass they've laid, to get back to bare hull.

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[tnelsmn]

If it were my boat I'd remove the boxes and put a stringer there. That opens up a ton of storage space, also it seems like those boxes are full of wet foam most the time. At the very least take a hole saw to a few spots to insure its dry.

I would at a minimum remove the foam from the rear up to the edge of the cockpit. That would give room for laying transom glass across the back of the boat.

I took the 1708 as wide as it needed to be so the strand from the top corner of the transom reached all the way to the bottom. Here's how that looked.

I'm no expert by any means, only built one boat, just saying how I did mine.

[VkingMike]

Perfect, thank you. I'll be in that area tomorrow and I'll dig into the boxes at the rear, to at minimum give me enough room to go further out with the glass. I'll decide from there on what to do if they're soaked, which I know is very likely.

[OnPad]

Have you decided on what material your going to use in the transom? If plywood was to be used, what are people's thoughts on leaving the center inside unglassed and uncoated. I have a old bcc ski boat that the transom is done that way. Seems like it let the water evaporate and isn't in horrible shape for being manufactured in 1978.

[VkingMike]

This transom will be two 3/4 pieces of Coosa bluewater 26 with a layer of 1708 in between.

[Hippie459MN]

I'm pretty sure I know the answer to this, but I like hearing others opinions. I'm not removing the foam boxes, but should I cut into the foam boxes at the rear to allow me more access to the wings and give me more hull to tab the transom into?



Like Tony said, I would personally remove the float boxes and put a stringer there like Tony did and how my early Vulture is (My vulture had no foam float boxes, just a long stringer and I believe the first year VKings were the same way). 9 times out of 10 they are full of water. In a Vector and Viper they are a must remove as there is core under them. In a VKing and Vulture there is not but just like the core, they will suck up water.

Here is the factory stringer in mine and Tony did his the same way. Dont mind the mess, was in the middle of wiring and rigging here.

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[VkingMike]

Ok guys, last day of the weekend so I got another 7-8 hours in today.

I must be fortunate, the foam boxes are dry as a bone. I tested a few spots, but more importantly dry in the rear where the most water should be. For now, they will stay in. I got all the layers of glass someone else had put down during the last "rebuild" scraped out. The pic below is my third pile before I removed it. It's all cut and ready for final grinding and cleaning. I'm excited to start laying new glass.

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[LakeFever]

Looks great! Moving along well

[VkingMike]

It's difficult to tell where the previous guys bad fiberglass job stops and Hydrostream's bad glass from the factory starts. Because of that, I went through the hull a bit. No big deal, but damn.. this thing is thin in some spots.
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[VkingMike]

Every time I think I'm close to finished with scraping, I find more. It's hard to even explain other than take pictures to show. I'm almost getting snow blind on what is the factory hull and what isn't. First pic is what appears to be glass over old carpet glue again. Second is what I started with, third is after hours of scraping. The last pic shows how many layers appear to be over the factory hull next to wear core material used to be.

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[LakeFever]

When I first saw how thin the outer glass was my first thought was “no wonder these things blow apart”. Less than 1/8” thick skin and one layer of roving. It’s mostly chop strand. It speaks volumes to how much strength the core brings and it gives me a ton of confidence in the restoration that it’s going to be strong and safe, just like yours will be. Keep after it your rolling ahead well

[VkingMike]

When I first saw how thin the outer glass was my first thought was “no wonder these things blow apart”. Less than 1/8” thick skin and one layer of roving. It’s mostly chop strand. It speaks volumes to how much strength the core brings and it gives me a ton of confidence in the restoration that it’s going to be strong and safe, just like yours will be. Keep after it your rolling ahead wellThank you, I started doubting myself and what I was doing for a minute there. I saw how thin they can be when I stuck my scraper through the back wing lol. Speaking of, what is a solid way to spot repair. Or is it necessary? Like do you patch it, then 1708 over it with my full transom piece?

[tnelsmn]

Feather the edges of the hole out an inch or two and lay in a few layers of CSM overlapping them smaller to bigger. Take a look at the early pages of my build, there's a lot of holes through the bottom of mine.

[VkingMike]

Perfect, I just ordered some CSM for patching holes. I'm actually excited to get to the grinding phase after days of scraping and chipping.

[LakeFever]

I took some parchment paper and Bristol board and taped that under the holes and then laid a couple layers of 1.5oz csm and then one piece of 1708 each piece stepping past the one below it 2” or so in all directions. The tape doesn’t stick to the parchment paper so you have to cut the Bristol board or whatever light stiff’ish backer you can find. The resin does not stick to parchment paper at all. If your careful this will save a lot of hassle when you work on the exterior side of things. Mine didn’t go great I could do much better now but I was a newb then. I have to grind back some now and reapply

[VkingMike]

Picked this up today, let the grinding begin...

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[tnelsmn]

That was one of my better investments as well. Might as well grab a box of N95 pre filters for the canisters. Thats what gets clogged up first when doing all the grinding. Those will greatly lengthen the life of the canisters. Not sure what the price and availability is on those now, I did most that work in the pre rona times.

I forget what resin you're using, but with Poly like I used, wearing a respirator was almost a must. I had a few half face ones, one dedicated for me, and a few spares for helpers.

Another tip to extend the canisters life. Pop them off and keep them in a zip loc bag. The charcoal style canisters are always absorbing once opened and putting them in a sealed container will make them last much longer. I used to put the entire half face respirator in a gallon freezer bag when not in use. If memory severs correct a set of canisters would last me for about 5gal of resin used.

[VkingMike]

I've got vinyl ester, but I can imagine its not much different as far as fumes are concerned. I couldn't believe how much it filled the truck with fumes just on the drive back from purchasing it, and that was sealed up. I'll search for some pre filters now, I appreciate these tips for sure.

[VkingMike]

I'll post pics from my laptop in a few hours. But I do not want to handle, hear, feel, or look at a grinder for a very long time after today.

[OnPad]

Not a job anyone want's to do very often.

[VkingMike]

Just a few pics. I had to spray out the boat there was so much dust, but I'm getting closer. Just a few more areas to feather out a clean up. Gelcoat is some serious stuff to grind off, and makes a hell of a mess. Sun should be out today, so a layer of 1708 should be going down. I decided to remove more of the foam boxes to make it flush front to rear. And each of of my fingers has wounds from the flapper wheel and I can see why they started putting automatic brakes on them. It's the continued spinning after letting off the trigger that got me each time. It looks worse than it is, sorry if anyone is squeamish lol
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[mrichartz]

Need some heavier gloves those latex gloves aren't going to do **** against the grinder.. lol
All the tore up glove on top does make it look pretty good tho

[VkingMike]

Start cutting Coosa today, man does it make some nasty dust. Rough cut my transom pieces and ground them to fit, then cut stringers. I'll have do some templets for the curve and transom angle. I'll have enough left out of my sheet to do some braces up front and possible seat boxes. I'm raising the floor up about 3/4" over what it was previously. I left the transom pieces tall for now, I'll cut them before glassing.
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[LakeFever]

Moving right along. Nice!

[Zammit_Racing]

Looks awesome man nice cuts/fitment. Yea the saw dust is real nasty and itchy !


Hydrostream Voodoo Rebuild/Restoration
Instagram: http://instagram.com/zammit_racing/
Rebuild: https://www.screamandfly.com/showthread.php?361065-Hydrostream-voodoo-rebuild-restoration
Videos: https://youtube.com/channel/UCGy7j7CoScBfMiWNNYzgruA

[VkingMike]

I'm using bluewater 26 3/4 Coosa in my transom. Is a single layer of 1708 between them enough?

I do plan on drilling to relive air, how many holes is enough? Every 6" in a square pattern?

[tnelsmn]

That should be fine between them.

[VkingMike]

I have someone helping me when it comes to laying resin and fiberglass. But wanted to ask, what is the best method with Vinyl ester resin. Do you put a layer of wetted mat and let it cure fully before doing the next or can you let it tack up and go over it with another layer, and so on? There is a lot of conflicting info on this, so I come here to ask the guys that have already done it.

I just want to make sure this is done properly.

[Zammit_Racing]

I'm using bluewater 26 3/4 Coosa in my transom. Is a single layer of 1708 between them enough?

I do plan on drilling to relive air, how many holes is enough? Every 6" in a square pattern?

I put 1 layer between my Cossa board, that’s all you need, it’s better to keep them close together so more you add the more it will push them apart. And I put 4 layers of 1708 on the inside of the transom and 1 layer wrapped over the whole transom, then 1708 tabs for the knees, then CSM over everything to tie all the tabs together worked really well.
I never drilled and air relief holed in mine, seemed ok without used epoxy with cabosil to thicken it turned ok excellent

Hydrostream Voodoo Rebuild/Restoration
Instagram: http://instagram.com/zammit_racing/
Rebuild: https://www.screamandfly.com/showthread.php?361065-Hydrostream-voodoo-rebuild-restoration
Videos: https://youtube.com/channel/UCGy7j7CoScBfMiWNNYzgruA

[OnPad]

Haven't used v. ester but with poly you want to do as much layup as you can at once. It easier to get it to lay over a smooth surface vs a uneven hardened layup. I think with poly they say not to let it cure more than a day or two before laying more up or you don't get as good of adhesion. You can have a helper wetting glass out on a table and handing you the wetted out pieces might help with air in your layup. If not lay resin down then csm or cloth, you will have a hard time getting the cloth to take resin from just the topside, at least on the first layer. I'm no pro but I've done a little. Maybe someone with more experience will chime in.

[LakeFever]

What to do and what you should do when your new are two different things. The best way to go is wet on wet lays IMO the more the better. Earlier I also suggested using torn csm on the edges of all 1708 lays which really smooths out the transitions and doesn’t require near the level of grinding afterwards plus it adds strength to the layup.

the resin your using will have a secondary bonding window which you need to ask your supplier about. Derakane was 12 days. Meaning you can lay safely without grinding over lays as old as 12 days. Very handy for me I can tell you that much.

regarding the coosa I didn’t put any glass in between I had done a ton of reading and the concept of a core is to add width to the structure similar to an I-beam does to steel. IMO your far better off putting lots of layers of 1708/1808 on the inside of the transom skin before setting in the coosa followed with lots of layers of 1708/1808 over the coosa to the hull tying it in. I have currently about 5/16” thick glass on the inside of the transom And about 1/4” on the outside. It’s around 5 or 6 lays of 1708 each side with more to come yet.

I can’t see how laying 1708 in between could possibly hurt though so by all means if you want to do it do it. I also ran the 1708 right across the transom out to the wings I stepped each lay over the last 2” min.

the only caution I would offer about wet on wet lays is getting ALL the air bubbles out is what makes a good lay and this is harder with multiple lays so if mix enough resin per lay only and go from there so you don’t end up having to stop and waste a bunch of catalyzed resin. Speaking of which 0.65ml of resin per square inch of 1708 is what I found was just about enough. It’s slightly more than you need for second wet layers though. Good luck!

[VkingMike]

Thank you everyone for all information, this is why I'm here asking. I'm taking it all in, just to be more informed. I tend to way over think everything, but by doing so 9/10 times I end up with exactly what I wanted or am looking for.

I'll contact the manufacture on my specific resin today, the window of overlays like that would definitely make this much easier. I'm planning on starting at the transom and getting that all done before moving any further. Seeing how thin the transom skin is, I'll be doing as suggested with multiple layers. Speaking of, I noticed a slight bow in the outer skin, so when laying new material what's the best way to keep it straight and not making that bow stronger after all said and done?

[OnPad]

You should do your layup and add your transom boards while everything is wet and clamp. I wouldn't mix that batch of resin to hot, you will need some working time. You can add a piece of MDF or ply or whatever you got to outside of boat to clamp on. You can also pre drill transom boards and use bolts to help clamp that transom in. Might be a little stressful to get all that done. If you don't think you can pull it off you can always use thickened resin for bedding.

[LakeFever]

Yes good points all onpad. My transom skin bowed too but I clamped it to a piece of 3/4” ply when I set the transom in and it flattened out nicely. I did mine one lay at a time just because my skill level was low and I wanted the time to work each lay and review before moving forward. If you did lay in 5-9 lays first and managed to clamp your transom board in on top wet that would be awesome and I would be very impressed.

[Zammit_Racing]

My transom was bowed out as well I’m thinking is was from the frost in the winters form the wood being wet all the time and mine actually delaminated from fiberglass layers too. I per-drilled the motor bolt holes in the Cossa so then I drilled more holes in a 3/4” pice of plywood and clamped it sandwiching the outer skin and it was straight the next day after I took the clamps off.

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Hydrostream Voodoo Rebuild/Restoration
Instagram: http://instagram.com/zammit_racing/
Rebuild: https://www.screamandfly.com/showthread.php?361065-Hydrostream-voodoo-rebuild-restoration
Videos: https://youtube.com/channel/UCGy7j7CoScBfMiWNNYzgruA

[OnPad]

As lakeFeaver stated your won't be able to wet out as many layers as he uses. I was thinking 2 or 3 max at a time. You might want to start slow, get a feel for your pot life. Leave yourself 2 to go and add some thickened resin for transom install. I didn't have to use alot of glass on my ltv with marine ply and a 1/2 plate of aluminum on the outside. Temperature will have a considerable effect on how fast your resin will go off. It was cold when I did mine, and I didn't mix it hot , I had lots of time.

[VkingMike]

It will be mid 60's here next week. I think I will start with my first layer of 1708 and resin on the transom to get a feel for working time like you suggest. I called the manufacture and they suggest not laying a second piece after 24 hours or if it was beyond "fingerprint tacky" And that from there I should sand and re-apply the next layer.

I'm not trying to rush this process from here, I don't want to waste product. I'm thinking of doing a few layers of the 1708 and let it cure, then use a thickened resin with cabosil to bed the coosa to the skin and clamp it. Use the rest of that thickened resin to smooth the edges and let it all cure. then go over it with layers of 1708. Does this sound about right to you guys?

One last thing I am unsure of. When I am encapsulation the coosa on the final layers, how do you go about tying that in the the outer skin? Overlapping the 1708 down the back side?

[OnPad]

Another thing to keep in mind is you will lose working time when you lay up over resin that is going off. As lakeFever stated lay each layer of 1708 past previous with torn csm strips on edges. I don't think you will have alot of luck wrapping glass over any kind of hard corners. Like you said fill edges of transom with thickened resin or you could soften the edges with a grinder or saw cut at 45 and grind to reduce filler. Then run your 1708 out past your transom with each layer overlapping by at least a couple inchs.

Anyone else? Inquiring minds want to know.

[LakeFever]

IMO so long as the lays still feel a little sticky your good to go. Trying to sand the glass when it’s like that will be a disaster and I’m sure the bond will be strong. Do some small test pieces on the bench over a piece of scrap wood is always wise. Get to know the material

[VkingMike]

With cold temps in Florida (40's) I haven't attempted any resin mixing or glass work. I did cut patches for some areas, layering smaller to larger out of some 1oz mat. I'll use these to fix a few areas on the transom and the hole I scraped through the port side wing before layering with 1708. This gives me some extra time to really make the coosa stringers fit tightly.

[VkingMike]

Did a test mix to get a feel for the material and how long the work time will be. Patched the hole I made and a spot on the transom skin that was separated. Did about 4-5 layers of 1.5oz CSM starting small to slightly bigger each time. Temps are 50, but its much warmer in the sun, gel time was bout 30 minutes mixed at 1.5% Now its ready for full lays of 1708 once the temps are in a better range.
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[VkingMike]

More pics. Cold weather has me preparing everything to start the transom. Copied the clamps everyone else had good success with.

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[VkingMike]

I need some advice in closing off the foam boxes, better yet how to go about it with glass. Whos got some experience with this? Do I need filler pieces over the foam, then glass over that? Since this photo was taken, I have shaved the foam flush in preperation.

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[rjdubiel]

I would think some very thin wood or even cardboard can make the structure and then just glass over it. I would remove them and replace with a stringer but it is a PITA to do I hear. Also, start keeping all your cottage cheese containers, sour cream containers, anything plastic that you can mix resin in. I have bags full of them so I don't need to reuse the containers that are all messy from using during layup.

[VkingMike]

I did consider some vey thin balsa, I have a LOT of it from rc plane building.

I'm keeping the foam for now, since its all dry.

[VkingMike]

Found a 12"x24" 3/32 fiberglass sheet laying around the shop. Problem solved

[VkingMike]

Spent some time preparing the boat today, final grinding and such. Fiberglass starts next weekend!
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[VkingMike]

Everything happens fairly quickly once I started mixing resin, but I grabbed a few picture of the progress. Did a mix of cabosil and chop to fill the transitions and voids. Next will be 3 layers of 1708 over the whole transom.
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[LakeFever]

[QUOTE=VkingMike;3330748]Everything happens fairly quickly once I started mixing resinQUOTE]

Ain’t that the truth. You know your hopping when your drenched in sweat after a layup session

[VkingMike]

It's already so much stronger than it was, I'm actually impressed. once its all closed in and the stringer/knees are in its going to be solid as hell.

[VkingMike]

Final layers of 1708 over the Coose transom, Stringers, pad core material are in. Also closed in where I cut the foam boxes back with 2 pieces of 1708. This was an intense part of glassing, as there were a lot of things that had to happen and be put into place at once. Luckily I've had some experienced help with most of the lays so far. Without that, this process would be a lot slower.

I also have all of the core material precut and ready, so thats up next. Work up the bow, then back down with the final layer of glass. I pulled the boat out this morning to let it bake in the sun all day to really get hard.

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[VkingMike]

I've searched around and read a lot of opinions on bolting the motor on through Coosa. Some say to sleeve the Coosa, some say its not necessary. Any input on this subject from anyone thats used this in their transom?

[LakeFever]

I spent a lot of time reading and thinking about what to do with the transom coosa bolt issue. In the end I have 3/8” glass on either side of the coosa. I am not going to use sleeves I am using 1/2” stainless rod that I am cutting to fit and threading the ends fine thread myself along with brass nylocs. Going to torque 20-30 ftlbs. I have a sheet of 1/2 aluminum I am going to cut plates or big washers out of as well. I’ll be using 4200 on the bolts as well as resin coating the inside of the holes. I think that’s it but I may change my plan a bit because I’m not there yet. I did bolt the transom eyes through to flip the hull and wow, strong. Not really worried at this point

[XstreamVking]

Just add glass where the bolts come thru. 3/8'' is all you need to prevent crush. Skip the alum plate and just use some SS fender washers. Mine is exactly this way and no problems after many, many, years of abuse. Torque to an even amount. 25-30 is good. Just check torque after 20 hrs of operation to give some confirmation of no change.

[VkingMike]

With the size of the knees I did for added strength, I've been kicking around the idea of fuel tanks on either side of the floor under the splashwell delete. Something like 12 gallon on both sides. Rather than a valve or having to manually switch it, I was going to do a 1" transfer tube from tank to tank at the very back / bottom. I don't really see any issue as the transfer tube will keep both tanks at the same level. Single pickup on one of the tanks. Any thoughts or suggestion are always welcome.

[XstreamVking]

You could do dual tanks. It just complicates things. Need 2 fills and 2 vents. Would need a valve on each tank in case the hose was to fail. Always overdo safety with fuel. Also when filling with fuel it would help to stop the flow between the two. Esp. if you add oil then gas up.

[VkingMike]

Core went in last night. Made a mess on my arms and legs with resin, but its worth it. This morning I only found one small area that needed more weight on it in the bow curve, so its a little soft. Luckily, I can cut it back and redo just that 5" area. Took these picks this morning after taking the bricks, landscaping stones and gallon paint cans off. It looked like I was hauling a load of junk to scrap with all the stuff I had weighing the core down.

In the pics, the port side has a bit more saturation into the scoring. It all went on evenly, so not sure why the starboard side didn't bleed up. But I'm not too concerned.
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[VkingMike]

I found a few spots that I didn't like, probably less than a square foot in total. Since it was still thumb print tacky, I used an epoxy injection syringe and mixed up some cabosil to inject in those spots. More so to make me feel better about it. I pulled it out in the sun today to really get hard. Ive found this vinyl ester needs some good heat to really kick off.

Once it's good and hard and before the final layer of glass, what are the recommendations for rounding off the core material? Cabosil and spoon or trim the core at and angle?

[XstreamVking]

Trim and sand smooth, less putty the better. And pre-wet that core real good.

[VkingMike]

It's wild to see all the variations other owners have went through in a boats life. When I picked this boat up, a pretty nice aluminum plate was used to cover most of these holes. The 1" thick marine wood is in great shape behind the dash, so it will stay in place. I'll repair most of them and move the steering to the center. I'll likely use another aluminum dash plate like previous as well, since it does clean up the dash.

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[VkingMike]

Making templates for the floor. This is a tough one, trying to judge where to put the forward section so that the pedal is in a comfortable spot. I'm leaning towards having it closer to me, so that the pedal can be moved further forward if needed. Also a slight angle forward to double as somewhat of a foot rest.
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[tnelsmn]

I like being able to plant my left foot against that forward section to help plant me in the seat. My peddle is to the right up on the first chine.

[LakeFever]

I set the drivers seat in on some wood pieces and sat in it, marked where my heal sat at rest and made a pad big enough for an inch either way of adjustment plus I have the slider plate for the foot throttle. It was the best I could come up with at the time.

[VkingMike]

I did end up putting the seat on some wood last night and mocking everything up. Then made my final pieces out of coosa. It felt comfortable, and like Tony suggested, I also like using that as a foot rest to push me in the seat. I'll be center steer, so the peddle will be just to the right on the steering wheel on that coosa pad.

You can also see in the pic where I started on the plug for the dash where the steering wheel will eventually end up centered.

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[rjdubiel]

I did left foot as I could not find a comfy spot on the right side without my shin close to the dash. Hit a wave or get out of sorts and you will have you leg on the dash. Left foot was odd for about 15 seconds then you don't even know it is left foot throttle after that. I have seen lots on the right but I just did not like it. Looking great!

[rjdubiel]

I did end up hitting a hard wakeboat wake and cracked my hull so did some more balsa and carried it up wider in front of the floor. If you are going to put floor in on top of the one stringer going forward then you dont really need to do what I did.

Crack!
501739

Repair inside with more balsa up to where the floor would sit if you carried the floor forward.
501740

[VkingMike]

I did do an extra layer of 1708 and took the divinycell further up the sides than it was from the factory in the nose section.

I'll have floor on top of that single stringer as well. I'm having fun with this portion of the rebuild, can't wait to get this thing back out.

[rjdubiel]

you will be fine then. I only wet back with the one long stringer and the little hot foot cross section so my mistake did not have much support up there and it cracked just where the core ended. I put my seats on a 3/4 plywood with stainless inserts to keep the seats as low as possible.

[VkingMike]

Advice on where to drill drain holes. Do I need vent holes at all with coosa? Or just close it off and forget about it?

I'll have a drain hole in the small floor where my step to get into the drivers seat will be, which will go in between the stringers and back to the bilge. But the forward bulkhead, just seal it off and forget about it?

[LakeFever]

Looking really good! Drain holes; I drilled the center of rib in the footwell but not the two side areas. I drilled the stringers at the rearmost area by the transom. I am going to drill a small 1/8” hole on top of the floor to vent those side areas as well. This way if it ever gets wet and bobs nose up the two side cavities are air tight and will float it. The front sub floor has a stringer that sits off the bottom by about an inch so it vents plenty that way. You definitely don’t want sealed chambers anywhere. They can pressurize and bust the hull in certain conditions

[VkingMike]

Perfect, thank you. That was my concern was having something sealed be an issue.

[OnPad]

Good job, you'll be up and ripping in no time!

I agree, doing the layup is alot more enjoyable vs grinding/sanding.

My boat, where the control box mounted, looked like your dash. Makes a guy wonder, how many engines some of these old boats have had on them?

[tnelsmn]

I was initially planning to seal everything under my floors planning on no water ever getting in, it never needs a way out. But what I was missing at the time was thinking of condensation. Water or at the least condensation is going to be under there, give it a way out and air a way in.

[VkingMike]

A little more work done last night. Like most things on this build, it was the first time I've used gelcoat. But I am happy with the results after just brushing it on in a thick coat and going back over it with light strokes. Next I'll be drilling a few holes for drainage and venting and the floor will go in.

I've made my small floor piece for up front, but I have a question. It's about 18"x 20" With something small like this, is it necessary to tab it in and then go over it with a full piece or can a full piece just be laid over it and call it good? Probably just me over thinking it, but I am always curious.

501999502000

[LakeFever]

It’s probably fine with one piece but I did at least two ties to everything because I don’t have any prior experience to reference over time of use and I tend to overdo things. I’m sure I could have stripped a few gallons worth of resin out of my build and ended up with a perfectly fine job but my goals are more long term durability over lightweight top speed. I’ll gladly give up a few mph to have a hull that’s going to take a pounding and not complain

[VkingMike]

Well guys, I learned a valuable lesson last night. I walked away from a fresh lay with heat lamps on. Less than 10 minutes away and one must have tipped over. I have already cut the section out and repaired it with new core and glass this morning, but this could have been so much worse.
502184

[LakeFever]

Wow! That’s a scary incident

[rjdubiel]

You are in FL and need heat lamps? Damn. I leave tomorrow for the Tampa side, I was thinking it was going to be warmer down there! Haha. Very lucky. But that glass work looks good!

[VkingMike]

I was trying to combat humidity lol...However, we are looking at mid 30's over night.

[VkingMike]

Dash holes plugged, fiber glassed over and new panel cut. Then did the new gauge layup using some existing holes. Moved the steering to the center like I wanted as well. Then started cutting the floor piece and glassing the underside. Should be able to get the floor tabbed in this week. Using one sheet of glass is almost too much to lay at one time, but it worked out.
502282502283502284502285502286

[VkingMike]

More spam for your viewing pleasure.

I took the pieces I trimmed off the sides of the floor material and glassed them down on both sides. I purposely made the stringers about 1/2 higher, so these will level the floor out. I wanted the floor to be up higher than it previously was for a few reasons, mostly for looks and the way it flows into the sides. Glassed over those strips and while everything was still wet mixed up some resin/cabosil/chopped glass and layed the floor piece in. Luckily my buddy is a painting contractor and there is plenty of "weight" laying around.

I did make a bit of a mess on my nice gelcoat, but its hard not to drip resin when you're doing layups. But its under the floor, so oh well.
502396502397

[XstreamVking]

Did you figure out the fuel tank placement yet? Just remembered you had mentioned dual tanks.

[VkingMike]

Did you figure out the fuel tank placement yet? Just remembered you had mentioned dual tanks.

I'm going to revisit that once I have my seats mounted. See how much room I have, just trying to center the weight as best I can.

[VkingMike]

Used some parchment paper and laid this piece out of 1708 for the first section of the splashwell. Added some Coosa cross pieces on for a bit of support as well. Ideally I'll want this strong enough to walk on. I'll be trimming this to fit, then doing some molding and a few more layer of 1708 over it and down the transom to tie everything together.

502477

[VkingMike]

Floor glassed in. I ran out of vinyl ester and just picked up some poly for the floor lay. But damn, poly sets up WAY faster. I was used to the long pot and cure times of the vinyl and almost got myself into some trouble. Next are some seat boxes, pedal mounting and shifter placement. I am going with a floor mounted shifter next to the drivers seat.
502744502745502756

[VkingMike]

it's not perfect, but I'm happy with how the gelcoat turned out. This was poured out and brushed.

I chose to build more of a tunnel for my seat mounts, so I can get my hand under and nut and bolt my seats
502921502922502923

[LakeFever]

Looks really good! Your almost done

[VkingMike]

Ok guys, question.

I have the old holes still visible from where the jackplate was mounted beforehand, but what is the best way to center and make sure everything is square to drill the new holes or at least verify the old ones are good? I ask because I have found that nothing inside or outside of these boats is symmetrical. Hell measuring for the center steer had me scratching my head because everything side to side wasn't the same lol.

[JPEROG]

You want to center everything on the transom from the pad. I am fortunate to have Porta Products in my back yard so I use one of their transom jigs to clamp on and drill square. That is what you need "transom jig" with drill guides so your holes are square through the transom and backer plates all line up. You are close, tell Scott I told you to call-he will treat you right.

Joe

[VkingMike]

Thanks Joe, Thats right up the street from my work essentially. I definitely want the motor square after doing all this work.

[XstreamVking]

Laser level......

[LakeFever]

I’m with xstream. I’m using a cross line laser off the center of my pad and drilling transom holes level to the laser on center. Height wise I don’t know yet but high as safely possible.

The drill fixture is badass if you can get one. I might fab up something for this

[VkingMike]

I did some measuring last night and the old holes in the outer glass seem to be spot on with actual center. If all checks out, I'll just need to borrow a jig for drilling, which I have access to.

If you guy have any examples of using a laser level, I would love to see. I guess I'm having trouble picturing how to go about it.

[LakeFever]

If you want to verify center you need a cross line self levelling laser level. Referencing all off the pad only to sit the boat level for and aft and side to side. Meaning the pad is perfectly level on front back and side to side. Then at the rear near the drain plug so you can see it from the back, measure and mark center of the pad with a pencil, not a marker you want a fine accurate center line. Measure five times lol.

Measure the center of the transom both vertical and horizontal and make a small mark in the center. Move the level to the rear of the boat and broadcast the cross line parallel to the bottom of the pad which you know to be true level as well as the vertical beam on your center mark of transom and that will give you true center up the transom square to the pad and it’s center. Simply copy that over tape and pencil, Mark your height and drill square to that center line. Then your motor will be perfectly centered and square to the pad. Hope this makes sense

[VkingMike]

Ahhh ok. That did help, thank you. I'll be testing this after work today.

Here is what I did last night, 3 layers of overlapping1708 to cover the splashwell. Then did the torn CSM at the end on the transom itself. I originally planned to go down the transom further, but was told it really isn't all that necessary. As of right now, that is the last of the glass work for this boat! (other than the spots you can see on the transom I'll fill) I wanted to try and keep the original lines that flow into the splashwell and I'm happy with how it came out. Just a bit of fairing to do over this to smooth it out and then paint.

503094503095503096

[LakeFever]

Really clean work! Nice cat eye with race stars there too ;)

[rjdubiel]

I did only one layer of 1708 or was it 1808, either way I only did one over the delete and only went 1 inch down the outside of the transom. Then one layer inside where the delete and transom meet, a 4 inch wide strip is all I did to tie it all together. You are bulletproof with this build!

[VkingMike]

Really clean work! Nice cat eye with race stars there too ;) Thats a buddy's build still waiting to get lowered. Built 5.3 12:1ish I've been working on the tune for it to get everything dialed in, should be a fun street truck

[VkingMike]

I tackled the bow eye replacement last night, which with the cap on is just silly in all honesty. The bolts were seized, so I had to cut it from the outside, then try and push the pieces inwards. Top contacted the nose cap, so I had to crawl in with an air saw and ear plugs. The amount of load cursing that echoed from inside the bow of my Vking last night was probably heard for blocks, so good thing I'm in the woods.

The good news is, the wood is in excellent shape and I was actually surprised at how thick the hull is up there. I made an aluminum backing plate for my piece of mind anyways.
503139

[Jim Speros]

Great Thread. You have been getting after it at a marching pace. Nice work. I find it motivating. Thank you. Won't be long and I'll be taking my old girl apart.

Cheers

[VkingMike]

A couple tools that proved invaluable in my build are an oscillating tool and a half inch belt grinder.
I wanted to revisit this post so that others may find it easier. These two tools right here have been the most valuable in this rebuild. The 1/2 sander has been used in almost every part of the build specifically. Do not hesitate on picking this up if you are planning any boat restoration.

[VkingMike]

Great Thread. You have been getting after it at a marching pace. Nice work. I find it motivating. Thank you. Won't be long and I'll be taking my old girl apart.

CheersThank you, when I set my mind to something I get hyper focused and even obsess a little lol.. excited to get it back in the water

[VkingMike]

A little more completed this morning before I went into work. This way I can sand when I get home. Some fairing layed down to smooth out over the rough 1708 cloth and some of the areas on the transom and over the patches from some old trims tabs from who knows how long ago.
503275503276

[VkingMike]

Measure 40 times and measure again. Then drilled holes with a homemade fixture to ensure the are square with the transom. I am pleased with the results. Also painted the splash-well delete and transom prior.
503598503599

[VkingMike]

And although I know not necessary, instead of washers I made some 3/16 plates for the inside. I've search a lot and seen a lot of recommends for bolt torque, but just want to verify the information still holds true as a lot are older threads. The transom is two 3/4 pieces of Coosa and 1708, total thickness is 2", so 35-40ft lbs does that sounds right?
503600

[tnelsmn]

Sounds about right. I went 50ft/lbs, I have a plywood transom.

[VkingMike]

I went 40ft lbs and it seemed to work perfectly. I also hung the mid section and got the seastar bolted back on. Started on re-wiring last night and got all the gauges and trim switch ran. Mounted the hot foot and bolted the steering wheel back on. Just making my way towards the back while I wait on my base gasket for the powerhead.

503680503681

[VkingMike]

Just trucking along with all the little final details. Got the powerhead bolted back on and lower cowl in place. Stared mocking up fuel tank, wiring, throttle and shift cables, rigging tubes. I'm finding each time I get rolling I need another little part that holds me up lol.

503924503925503926

[LakeFever]

Nice clean job all round there. I hear ya on the parts thing, it’s really a huge challenge during a build to have what you need on hand the moment you need it. Even the pro shops suffer from parts and material struggles and that’s not meaning COVID back orders either

[VkingMike]

Little by little, it's coming together. The vinyl showed up, so I made the stripes and center strip on the splashwell delete to match the front pattern. Got the rigging hoses, cables, wires, and everything ran to the motor. Working on battery and fuel tank mounting this week. Looking to fire it up and if all goes as planned a water test next weekend.
504103504104504105

[tnelsmn]

Is there some sort of check valve set up on the breather filter? I would be concerned about fuel spilling out of that. Even with a line mounted up to breather in the splash well I still get some spillage.

[VkingMike]

Is there some sort of check valve set up on the breather filter? I would be concerned about fuel spilling out of that. Even with a line mounted up to breather in the splash well I still get some spillage.

The breather fitting does have a one way valve in it, but I may extend it up further just incase

[VkingMike]

Fuel tank went in last night along with the new battery tray. Filled up with fresh fuel and fired it up. I'm just left with bleeding the steering and check over all my bolts. From there its ready for a water test. First fire up video attached.


https://youtube.com/shorts/XNFQJ6hbmKI (https://youtube.com/shorts/XNFQJ6hbmKI)

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[VkingMike]

Another quick video from last nights fire up. Everything seems to doing well, I'm excited to get back in the water.

https://youtube.com/shorts/FKV6-iFWJkQ

[XstreamVking]

Should pop right on plane with the weight foreword like it is. Might be able to use a little positive trim too. Looking real nice

[VkingMike]

Took the boat out this weekend for the first time since re-core.

Everything went well, just going to have to learn how to drive it all over again. It gets on plane ridiculously easy, and almost all of the porpoising is gone. I did run into some running issues near the end of the day and found the needle seat had backed out on the lower carb, but was able to limp the boat back in. I am still running a stock lower unit for now, so the motor is a bit low which seems to causes the boat to lean left under power, until getting on above a certain mph and trim. Is that common on these? Snapped a few pics and attached them.
505189505190505191

[XstreamVking]

I thought it would jump on plane. Nice... I would check the alignment of the engine as to why it leans left under power. Just a quarter of on inch can cause a lean on a light boat. Find center of pad and be sure that the bullet is exactly centered and engine is square to centerline.

[VkingMike]

I thought it would jump on plane. Nice... I would check the alignment of the engine as to why it leans left under power. Just a quarter of on inch can cause a lean on a light boat. Find center of pad and be sure that the bullet is exactly centered and engine is square to centerline.

I'll be checking this tonight. I know the transom holes are square, but there is some play in jackplate to motor holes where I could have that off a little. Thanks for the reply.

[LakeFever]

Looks great from the drivers seat. Ive never seen the trident scheme from that vantage point it looks like an arrow. So cool!

[OnPad]

Congrats on a job well done.
Your lean to the left is probably prop torque. You might end up with the battery on the starboard side to level her out a bit.

[VkingMike]

Thanks everyone. So I did some measuring and the bullet or nose cone is dead center on the pad. So I'm guessing it's propeller torque and a light hull. It's not as noticeable as I trim up, but it's not ideal either. Might need to shift some weight.

It likely wasn't as pronounced before when the drivers seat was on the starboard side vs now being center steering

[tnelsmn]

Looks great! Glad to see it back in the water.

Do you have a torque tab on the skeg? Might help with the lean.

[VkingMike]

Looks great! Glad to see it back in the water.

Do you have a torque tab on the skeg? Might help with the lean.I do not, that is an easy enough thing to try out for sure. I noticed with more weight in the boat, its less noticeable

[rjdubiel]

I do not, that is an easy enough thing to try out for sure. I noticed with more weight in the boat, its less noticeable

bust out the bondo and put a tab on the starboard side of the skeg! problem will be solved I would think.

[OnPad]

I don't know about bondo? PC•7 thickened epoxy works well for tabs, and nose cones. A little thicker than the stuff Bob's sends out with their nose cone kit.
I'm still going to say some starboard weight shift will help.

[rjdubiel]

Bondo will work just fine to test it. Works fine if you don't keep the boat in the water all the time (just day trips then out of the water to the trailer). Prime and paint and call it a day. Also P-17 works well from Adtech if you want to feel better about it!

[VkingMike]

Sent my lower unit off for a nose cone and prop shaft straightening. I've got 26 and 28 big ears to test once its back, probably starting at center of the pad. Does that sound about right?

[OnPad]

Good call. Start there and move up in small increments.
It will be like a different boat with the motor jacked up.

[LakeFever]

The bunny has threads on set up. Ive read its not flying to the max until your 2 1/2” above the pad. Havent tried this yet myself because i havent had a lwp on any of my streams til this one. I would just keep raising watching water pressure and be EXTREMELY cautious as you familiarize yourself with the prop you like best and inch up but by bit on speed.

Outasite has raced his stream since new and he said to make passes tweaking the height and trim until you have it good then leave it there for the days passes.

[tnelsmn]

Engine height is going to have a bunch of variables. Boat weight etc. My best runs yet has been prop shaft CL 7/8" above pad. I went higher and lost bite on the prop, way more slip and less speed. But my hull is on the heavy side.

Like has been said before, start with the prop shaft CL even with the pad and work your way up.

[XstreamVking]

Also, you run 2.5 inches above, you will need a very good prop to take advantage of it

[OnPad]

I run +2 1/4 on my LTV and Bullet, but have to run 4 blades, with a full 14 1/2 diameter.

[Pilotryan]

Well whatcha been doing the last couple weeks?

[VkingMike]

Sigh...

Waiting on my lower unit to come back. It had a bent prop shaft, so replacing that made it take a few extra days.

[Pilotryan]

If you don't mind me asking, where did you send your lower to be coned? What is the approximate cost without straightening the propshaft? I think that's the next step on mine.

[VkingMike]

I'm in Florida, so Bob's Machine is only 2 hours from me. They are doing all the work.

$650 installed for the nose cone, the can straighten you prop shaft for another $150-$175

[Pilotryan]

That’s not too bad for parts and labor. I’m in Texas so shipping would be very expensive…

[VkingMike]

That’s not too bad for parts and labor. I’m in Texas so shipping would be very expensive…

They use UPS ground and put it in a box, when I called they made it seem like it wasn't a big deal to ship. I'll be having it shipped back to me, rather than burning fuel to pick it up.

[VkingMike]

Still no lower unit. I called last Tuesday the 21st and was told it would be another week.

Going on 16 business days, which is getting frustrating to say the least.

[VkingMike]

Ok, should be back on track for the Alva run now. Time to test a few props.

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[VkingMike]

Hoping to test this out Sunday. Nose is just under the pad, so I'm going to start there and see how it does with a 28P big ear.

I still have 2 more motor holes I can go up, as the jackplate is maxed out.
507066

[rjdubiel]

put it higher if you have time now and lower the jackplate so you dont have to unbolt the motor tomorrow! Propshaft center line even with the bottom of the pad is the lowest you will go, likely higher.

[tnelsmn]

RJ is right. Hang the motor higher and drop your plate. Going for top speed you won't be below prop shaft CL even with pad. I'm running 7/8" above. 28 big ear should run pretty dang good. I like a chopper on my hull as well, but an ET still runs better for me.

[LakeFever]

Tony where do you run your engine height for take off/skiing?

[tnelsmn]

Tony where do you run your engine height for take off/skiing?

Lake, with the plate all the way down I'm 5 1/8" below the pad. Most days if I'm just going fast by myself I can leave the plate all the way up and run, it takes off well enough. I wish I was lower for skiing, but it works.

[VkingMike]

Moved the engine all the way up and now the prop shaft centerline is 1/4 above the pad. The boat handles and performs so much better than I could have even imagined. All of the previous issues with propeller torque leaning the boat are gone and it flies center on the pad. Even a lot of the chine walk has clamed down. No top speed runs yet, it was bad weather on my first test run and the sprinkling rain hurts at speed lol

[LakeFever]

Great to hear! What prop you running again?

[VkingMike]

28P big ear

[tnelsmn]

Good to hear! Thats a great starting point!

[VkingMike]

Took the boat out this weekend for some top end numbers and was able to get 84mph. RPM's are really getting up there with the 28p big ear. I saw 7,000 then backed off a bit (tach only goes to 7k) I was very please, until I got back to the ramp and got the boat out of the water. I can only assume I hit a turtle, as I'm not sure what else would have caused this damage. I felt nothing the entire day, so I was a bit shocked and honestly quite mad at the damage, since I've had this about 2 weeks. Its worht noting, no other damage is present, prop is fine.

So next comes the question.... What do I do? Order the epoxy, sand and scuff to repair and repaint?
507931

[rjdubiel]

your pm box is full!

Bobs cone and they installed? Unfortunately this has been happening more and more I hear from Bobs. Quick question, are you leaving the boat in the water at all overnight or over the weekends at all? If not here is my advice and you can get it done yourself in the garage. Get some AdTech P-17 which is a filler, like a bondo. Or even Evercoat body filler works just fine as well. Sand down all the Bobs body filler as it does not look like you hit anything, it just started coming off is what I see. Once your down to good dry filler, apply new filler and form with some sandpaper. Ratttle can that bitch primer, then color. We have been doing it for years and I have not had any chunks come off at all. Hell, the torque tab is filler on my lowers! This way when you do hit something you can fix it really easy also. Cheap and dirty and works.

[VkingMike]

Boat is stored inside a metal building out of water.

This is aggravating to say the least with how much it costs to have the job done by the people that claim to be the best in the business. Looks like I'll be ordering some filler today.

[rjdubiel]

On all my mercs the only lowers I have ran were done this way and all the way from hitting bottom of the river to 100+ mph they are fine. If they get some chips or whatever, a quick sand, fill, and primer/paint and back on the water! But honestly it looks like they didnt mix the filler and it did not dry. I would be asking for some money back!

[VkingMike]

I appreciate your input on this. I have already reached out to them this morning with my concerns and photos. It's unfortunate and the amount of anger I currently feel after spending good money to send this to "the professionals" and waiting almost a month? Deep breaths.... lol

I am already expecting them to blame it on the user, but all I can do is wait to hear back.

[rjdubiel]

Sucks to say the least! I have seen lots of paint off bobs lowers lately and only a few that were as bad as yours. IF they say you hit something I would call BS. I have hit stuff and it doesn't come flying off like that. A big divot in the filler, but not like that with hitting something. My opinion. Or one bad ass turtle.

[VkingMike]

I do have an unrelated question for anyone that want s chime in.

The motor is a 1993 Mariner 150 Mag III. I'm seeing 7,000 rpm is that pushing it too hard on a fishing motor? I mix 40:1, should I or just do 50:1 even at higher rpm?

[rjdubiel]

Metal cadge bearings in there? should be fine if they are. Turn it till the rpm doesn't go any higher! 32:1 is what I run. Do you have 40 amp electric? That would be my concern is that heavy 40 amp flywheel turning that hard

[OnPad]

Bum deal!! 84mph is awesome with a 150! Hard to see stuff coming at that speed!
I hate to say it, but it looks like you hit something. Just fill it, you'll be back in buisness in a few days. I used PC-7 epoxy on my nosecone and no body filler. I've had no problems.

I say stay at 40:1 or more oil, at that rpm.
Alloy caged bearings and lightweight flywheel would be nice at those engine speeds.
A four blade prop will decrease rpm, also.

[LakeFever]

Thats a bummer for sure. Hard to tell what happened by the pic alone but if the filler was not catalyzed properly there would be some spongy/slimy/soft spots in there you could probe around and see if that’s the case. Id guess you still hit a little something that set it off. Might have started as a small nick and once the water started getting into it blowing off the rest as you ran the rest of the day.

im not a hundred percent on what works and doesnt work yet as i have not coned one myself but i know the pre mix kitty hair fiberglass putty is the strongest bondo type stuff available. You can find it with vinylester resin too. If it were mine i wouldnt want warranty if fix it myself and try to eliminate this from happening again. Id strip it all off and fare with the fiberglass then finish with the adtech mention above for final smoothing. By my eye, that looks like what was done at Bobs

[VkingMike]

PC-7 will be here tomorrow. Going to grind this **** down and see what I've got, repair it and get back out on the water.

[XstreamVking]

Sorry to say I had the same kind of problem with bobs many years ago. Never went back.

[OnPad]

I have 2 lowers with bob's cones, one they did, one I did, no problems so far.
I do have a old preload case that has a land and sea, or something to that effect. Who ever installed it, used bondo, and it likes to crack on the seam. Also broke a couple of drive shafts on that one.

[LakeFever]

On a good note, mid 80’s out of a 150 is insane man. I couldnt crack 80 with a 2.5 200efi on mine so your speed is impressive as heck imo. Congrats

[VkingMike]

My assumption is the boat is quite a bit lighter after the coring. I'm sure the few mods to the 150 helped this too. The larger bore 200 carbs and going up a few main jet sizes really woke this thing up on the top end along with removing the super long exhaust tuner and replacing it for a shorty.

[OnPad]

I'm impressed!!!
What gear ratio are you running?
I have a 150 supermag on my ltv that I did a tuner, and opened the adapter plate up a little. Can't say I've ever hit 7k rpm, even with a 26p Yamaha drag. Actually I probably did when I snapped a driveshaft.

A little bit of alcohol, or acetone works good to smooth the surface of that PC-7.

[VkingMike]

Honestly not sure of the lower ratio lol

But we are back in business..
508390

[rjdubiel]

Honestly not sure of the lower ratio lol

Mark the prop with a marker on the very top in the center, then turn the flywheel one turn. Look where the mark turned to and whala you will see 2:1 or 1.87:1.

if the lower is a 2:1 the mark will be 180 degrees turned, or it will go from the top to the bottom of the prop. If 1.87:1 it will be a little further around and past the 180 degree mark (straight down by the skeg like a 2:1 would be).

[VkingMike]

This is why I love this site, there is so much to learn. Thank you

[VkingMike]

I found a 40amp flexplate style flywheel, so I am going that route to avoid changing electronics to 16amp. I just cleaned it up, fresh paint and some new hardware. I've read they don't cool as well at higher RPM with less vents, but I do not do much sustained high rpm.

Real world weighing on 2 separate scales showed the same results. It's not a lot, but every little bit can help keep load off the upper bearing.

Cast Iron flywheel 12.6 lbs
Flexplate flywheel 10.4 lbs

509080

[rjdubiel]

get a run going and keep it short, see how much you can get out of it. I think the issue with the 40 amp is people running miles and miles at 7K+. Just a 45 second run up to 8K I would guess is fine. if you spin that 28P to 8K you are at 95-100.

[rjdubiel]

I just cleaned it up, fresh paint and some new hardware

509080

Can I send you my flywheels as they both need a cleanup! haha. Looks great!